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Old 12-28-2015, 08:41 PM   #29
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Keep a 3/4" socket and a ratchet handle handy-


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Old 12-28-2015, 09:00 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by m.hony View Post
I don't know that the 3P particularly puts more strain there than any other hitch brand/style.
I had the same thing with my Equal-i-zer-


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They don't. It is my opinion the Propride is the finest hitch on the market, I want to make that clear. But that is not intended to start a hitch war.

The issue is that the 9200 GVW Excursion and near 1000 lb Airsteam tounge weight translates to tremendous amount of moment force at the reciever.

The Propride has no issue with weight distribution, it does its job really well and it is obvious it's designer understood the forces encountered. The reciever on the other hand does not appear to be designed as well in terms of the moment forces.

There was an architect posting here, well I too am an architect. Structural engineers prefer fully welded moment connections which is what is occurring at the reciever. Yet it is a sloppy pinned connection.
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Old 12-28-2015, 09:03 PM   #31
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I will add that I think the reciever design is good for the push and pull loads encountered during towing, just not the forces of weight distribution.
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Old 12-29-2015, 05:41 AM   #32
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I agree that the 3P is the best hitch design, even tough I don't own one.
After 5+ years and 40,000+ miles of,towing, I replaced the chrome bumper face on the rear bumper of my truck due to a ding in the chrome that had been there several years. The bumper and receiver hitch are built as one unit on my truck. The entire assembly must be removed to replace the chrome face and black plastic step portion of the bumper. There are 2 rails on the receiver that mate with the frame rails of the truck. These rails are possibly 3' long- extending to behind the tires and wheels on the truck's frame and held in with 6 very large bolts on each side. It appears to be a very good, solid, sturdy design. The only damage I can see after having the entire thing apart and lying in the carport is the only damage I can see when the entire unit is assembled- the elongated pin hole which is no longer being elongated/wallowed out due to the "anti rattle device".
Hitch designs on other trucks, even some 3/4 ton trucks, don't look as strong- the part that bolts to the truck frame isn't as long, big, doesn't have as many bolts. We have maybe 25 GM 3/4 ton and one tone trucks in our fleet at work and none of them seems to have suffered any damage to the receiver after 3 summers of towing nearly 14,000# cargo trailers all over the entire US using Curt weight distribution hitches. These vehicles were all bought used, many from horse people or RV people or folks in construction or farming. The hitches have been used. None of them have anti-rattle devices installed.
I'm not saying it isn't possible to damage the receiver hitch, just saying I have never seen it. Climate/rust may affect whether a hitch is damaged- we have no rust here-
Also, I would think any Class IV or Class V hitch would be OK. I've never seen a Class III hitch towing a 30' travel trailer, so I can't speak on that, except to say that by the numbers a Class III isn't up to the task-
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Old 12-29-2015, 06:51 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by m.hony View Post
two parts moving together -shank in receiver- as one unit puts less stress, strain, torque on the receiver/rear of the truck than 2 separate units moving independently-
loose shank puts forces of twist and torque on the receiver-
tight shank, no play, transfers that same force through the receiver to the vehicles frame, distributing the torque over a greater area- not just the pin hole in the receiver-
I'm not sure if any further damage beyond the pin hole would ever happen anyway, but I DON'T WANT TO FIND OUT-
That little $20 gadget takes away the elongated pin hole and any further damage that might or might not occur-
I agree. You can feel the difference.
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Old 12-29-2015, 08:09 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m.hony
I don't know that the 3P particularly puts more strain there than any other hitch brand/style.
I had the same thing with my Equal-i-zer-
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted S.
They don't.---
Actually -- the PP hitch does.

The PP hitch moves the ball about 12" farther from the TV's rear axle.

For a given tongue weight, the PP hitch will cause about 20% more load to be removed from the TV's front axle relative to a "conventional" hitch.

To restore the same percentage of load to the front axle requires that the PP hitch apply about 20% more torque to the receiver.

Ron
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Old 12-29-2015, 05:33 PM   #35
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Thus making the anti rattle device more valuable/useful-
If you can get the shank to be still you're accomplishing a lot-


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Old 04-08-2016, 12:55 PM   #36
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Yes...a Reese V Tow Beast.

POI...it too has the bit-O-slop syndrome. A feature noted more with the boat, 380Lb TW, as opposed to the AS with it's 1200Lb TW.

The Reese has a sleeve welded in which has the added benefit of adding some extra thickness to the pin hole to prevent excess ware.




The StowAway hitch tightener can be seen here....boat tow set-up.



....along with my greasy ball cover remover and hitch'n guide rod...

Stream Happy....

Bob
That hitch tightener looks like a good product... I thought of buying one until I realized that I'd have to remove it with the stinger, which always gets stowed when we're not towing.
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Old 04-08-2016, 01:24 PM   #37
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Install the "anti-rattle" device nuts up to make it easier to remove and install.


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Old 04-08-2016, 01:52 PM   #38
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Why could not the hitch be configured to be located under the rear of the vehicle? The Ball would need to still be behind the back of the vehicle, but not nearly as far as the current design places it. The constraint of low vehicle clearance has mostly gone away with current tow vehicle ground clearance and moving the lower bits forward a foot or so would not eat up enough to matter in the end. Less overhang should project the forces closer or in front of the axle. Seems like a possible improvement and a version 3 would open a new market segment. If it integrated a receiver reinforcement torque arm, I wonder? Guess the real question is, How would you connect/disconnect?

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