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Old 05-17-2012, 07:46 AM   #15
NOAZRK
 
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2004 34' Classic S/O
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Kutztown , Pennsylvania
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Thanks for the replies.

The Hensley rep asks that I stay with the 1000 lb. bars until they prove to be too light for my tougue weight. They have been very helpful and will switch bars with out cost or shipping to make everything right.

I'm pulling out today for the first time with the Hensley and will report back to everyone after several hundred miles or so. Today should be a good test for the Hensley. There'll be a pretty strong head and side wind heading west today.

~Alan
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Old 05-17-2012, 10:22 AM   #16
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Quincy , Massachusetts
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Angry

I didn't move down because of tongue weight. I purchased the trailer with the Hensley and I tow with an F350 and don't need the heavy bars. I didn't have to tighten them very much. Plus because I did not have much weight on the bars they seemed to chew up the zerks every so often.
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Old 05-17-2012, 09:01 PM   #17
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2004 34' Classic S/O
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Kutztown , Pennsylvania
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GreggS,

Could you explain why you moved from 1200lb to 1000lb bars?

Today I towed my 34' S/O about 200 miles. Part of the trip was on good old Rt.80 in Pennsylvania. In case you are not familiar with the interstate, the cement slabs are tilted so they cause a rythemic bounce.

Basically, it felt like I was riding a horse and I'm wondering if my 1000lb bars were adding to the problem. It seems like they were springing too much and therefore adding to the bounce rather then to hold everything a little more rigid.

Does this make sense to anyone who has resolved a bouncing issue? My shocks are good on the truck and trailer and I wasn't overloaded. I had the spring bars pulled up pretty tight.

~Alan
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Old 05-18-2012, 07:06 AM   #18
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2003 25' Classic
Zanadude Nebula , WNY
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Alan,

We also use the Hensley with 1000lb bars. Our tongue weight between 1000-1200lbs. TV 06 Burb, 130in wheelbase.

It's my understanding that the "rocking horse" ride has more to do with the relationship between the TV and trailer and the spacing between the concrete seams. In my experience adjusting the speed can SOMETIMES reduce the effect.

I believe changing to heavier bars would only stiffen the abruptness and would cause a harsher ride in the AS with the possibility flex damage to the trailer.

My two cents...

Bob
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Old 05-18-2012, 08:02 AM   #19
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I have found that I can get the adjustment of the weight pretty close just by the "seat of the pants" feel. I have verified this with a scale reading of being within 200 lbs between the front and rear axle of the truck.
Simply put:
- If the ride is rough the weight bars are pulled up too tight.
- If the ride seems to porpoise a little too much then the bars are too loose.
- Sometimes it's the condition of the road and you can't do anything about it except find a speed that's acceptable.

I am using HAHA 1000 lb bars on a 3/4 ton pickup/ 31' Classic.
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Steve, Christy, Anna and Scout (Border Collie deceased 11-30-2016)
1994 Classic 30'11" Excella - rear twin
2009 Dodge 2500, 6 Speed Auto, CTD, Quad Cab, Short Bed
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Old 05-19-2012, 05:56 AM   #20
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2004 34' Classic S/O
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Kutztown , Pennsylvania
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Bob and Steve,

Thanks for sticking with me on the Hensley bar questions. Between your experiences and suggestions, I think I'm going to stick with the 1000 lb. bars despite the extra tongue weight the slide-out adds.

I overlooked mentioning that for the first couple hundred miles traveled, I'm impressed with the sway elimination Geometry. On Rt. 80, there’s a steep downhill stretch with a sweeping curve at the bottom, then straight up hill. Like everyone else, I charge at the hills when it makes sense. In the past I found myself chopping into that curve while the trailer was pushing the rear end of the Excursion. Just add a tractor trailer passing at the same time and it is a recipe for disaster. With the Hensley, all the control problems were eliminated, plain and simple.

Originally, I thought that hitching up was going to be a big drawback, however after reading the installation instructions and understanding the occasional need to unwind the screw jacks to compensate for angle it makes sense.

Thanks again for the suggestions!

~Alan
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Old 05-19-2012, 06:36 AM   #21
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2003 25' Classic
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Thumbs up

Alan,

An O-ring on a hitch'n rod is a quick way to get your hite rite.

Bob
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Old 05-19-2012, 06:44 AM   #22
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I utilize a cordless drill and the BAL jack for hitching duties. The drill makes it easy to unwind the screw jacks all the way for hitching and the jack handle gives me the last couple of turns when the drill cannot turn the screw jacks anymore when hitching up.
Have fun!
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Steve, Christy, Anna and Scout (Border Collie deceased 11-30-2016)
1994 Classic 30'11" Excella - rear twin
2009 Dodge 2500, 6 Speed Auto, CTD, Quad Cab, Short Bed
Hensley with adjustable stinger
WBCCI # 3072
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