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Old 02-26-2016, 12:32 PM   #1
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23 FB too close to truck to drop the tail gate

I have a 2000 Dodge Ram 3/4 ton 4x4 that I pull our 23 FB with. I can not let the tail gate down on the truck without it hitting the electric jack and damaging my truck.

I have hooked up my neighbors 2013 Ford F-150 Eco Boost and the problem is worse.

I have had two AS dealers look at my hitch set up and they say it is spot on and if I went with a longer shank I would have towing issues.

Is this a problem with all pickups with AS?

Wife and I are looking to upgrade our TV, but this is an issue for us.
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Old 02-26-2016, 12:39 PM   #2
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I have a 2008 Classic 25fb. I'm able to drop the tailgate from our previous 2010 Toyota Tundra and now with my 2015 Ram 2500. I have a couple inches to spare. I'm using an Equalizer hitch. When I switched to the Ram I replaced my 2" shank with a 2 1/2" Equalizer shank.

Your hitch head is probably closer than mine.

Can you post a photo showing how much distance you have? If you have enough receiver shank maybe a machine shop could drill a new hole so the hitch shank sticks out a little more.

Kelvin
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Old 02-26-2016, 12:41 PM   #3
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We had a similar issue. Don't just get a longer shank on your hitch as that will reduce towing stability. Our dealer rotated the power jack 90 degrees to add a couple of inches which was sufficient to provide clearance for the tailgate to go all the way down.
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Old 02-26-2016, 01:11 PM   #4
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I'm using a 2011 Tundra with our 2006 Safari 23 and i have a couple inches of clearance between my tailgate and the jack motor. My jack motor head is turned parallel to the tailgate, so that adjustment might be all you may need

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Old 02-26-2016, 01:28 PM   #5
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The measurement of truck rear axle distance to hitch ball, compared to wheelbase determines how much leverage a swaying trailer has to move the steering axle of the truck. Think of that distance as a lever pushing the truck sideways. Think of wheelbase length as resistance to that push, the longer the better.

To reduce the effects of trailer sideways movement on the truck's steering, keep that rear leverage as short as possible. Or increase the truck wheelbase to compensate (new truck, unless your truck already has an exceptionally long wheelbase).

The other answer is a Hensley/ProPride style hitch which projects the ball pivot point forward to the truck's rear axle thereby near eliminating the lever; no sway forces are leveraged to the truck steering axle. And it's longer design length moves the trailer farther back from the truck allowing plenty of space for the tail gate to open.
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Old 02-27-2016, 11:36 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KWN306 View Post
I have a 2000 Dodge Ram 3/4 ton 4x4 that I pull our 23 FB with. I can not let the tail gate down on the truck without it hitting the electric jack and damaging my truck.

I have hooked up my neighbors 2013 Ford F-150 Eco Boost and the problem is worse.

I have had two AS dealers look at my hitch set up and they say it is spot on and if I went with a longer shank I would have towing issues.

Is this a problem with all pickups with AS?

Wife and I are looking to upgrade our TV, but this is an issue for us.
If it is just hitting the hitch motor you can rotate it .
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Old 02-27-2016, 11:43 AM   #7
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1/2 tons have deeper beds and therefore deeper tailgates. Found out by accident when we switched to an F250, worked fine. Try moving your elec Jack sideways, that might do it
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Old 02-27-2016, 11:47 AM   #8
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Our 2015 GMC 2500 pickup tailgate clears the Barker System (motor forward) of our 2015 International 25FB by about 1/4 inch. We're using an Equalizer. First time I dropped that tailgate, I was really worried - and I still lower it slowly.
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Old 02-27-2016, 11:59 AM   #9
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jack relocation plate

Quote:
Originally Posted by KWN306 View Post
I have a 2000 Dodge Ram 3/4 ton 4x4 that I pull our 23 FB with. I can not let the tail gate down on the truck without it hitting the electric jack and damaging my truck.

I have hooked up my neighbors 2013 Ford F-150 Eco Boost and the problem is worse.

I have had two AS dealers look at my hitch set up and they say it is spot on and if I went with a longer shank I would have towing issues.

Is this a problem with all pickups with AS?

Wife and I are looking to upgrade our TV, but this is an issue for us.
I have no idea what the tongue of your trailer looks like - but we make these relocation plates for the Casita folks.
Would something similar work for you? Can you post a photo?

Thanks,
Jim
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Old 02-27-2016, 12:07 PM   #10
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23 FB too close to truck to drop the tail gate

We had the same problem with all of our trailers we have had (25, 30, and now 19 that we tow with a 2014 suburban with a blue ox swaypro). I finally got around to rotating the jack 90 degrees when I had the trailer up to drop the axle. I had to drill the mounting plate to align the holes to get the Jack to be at 90 degrees and the whole project took less than an hour. I highly recommend this modification, one of the most useful we have done since we open and close the back hatch many times a day when hitched on the road for our big Bernise Mountain Dog!
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Old 02-27-2016, 12:23 PM   #11
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I got a longer shank with my 2013 international and 1500 gmc pickup. No problem with clearance or towing .
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Old 02-27-2016, 12:43 PM   #12
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You have to have a longer shank if you want to open tail gate. What issue's would you have with towing other than lengthening you safety chains if they are short and your electrical cord? I have a shank long enough which allows for gate to drop and allow all the other things to connect. My other hitch for my boat trailer is to short and unable to open the gate which drives me nuts. I also tow a 2016 FB 27'....
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Old 02-27-2016, 01:10 PM   #13
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mcomeaux, see post #5 for an answer to post #12.
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Old 02-27-2016, 01:17 PM   #14
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I believe a longer shank will solve your problem (that's why they make shanks with different lengths). I would not worry too much about it affecting your towing stability. While a shorter shank is preferable (mathematically, it helps towing stability), IMO, in practice the effect of shank length on stability would not be noticeable.

I rented a trailer last year, and the shank that came with the trailer's WDH was VERY long. The trailer was very stable, and I could not sense any difference, when comparing it with my own trailer whose WDH shank is much shorter. Heck, I could not even sense any difference in overall towing dynamics, even though the rental trailer was a very high profile whitebox trailer. My own trailer is an Avion, which has low center of gravity, is aerodynamic, and has an independent suspension -- all the buzz words apply. My TV got 2.5 mpg worse with the rental trailer, so the car obviously noticed the difference, but as a driver I did not sense any discernible difference. IMO, the effect of shank length, among other things, on towing stability is exaggerated.
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