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Old 02-27-2016, 05:42 PM   #29
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The amount of leverage an extended hitch shank has on the truck's steering is relative to the truck's wheelbase, the longer the better. On some tow vehicles a few inches doesn't sound like much until the trailer begins to sway, or gets pushed around by a semi bow wave or wind gust, or both on a downhill curve.

No sway, no problem. With sway the extra leverage of the extended receiver may be a problem.

Research it. I can suggest you check with Can-Am's hitch experts in Ontario who often shorten and re-drill the hitch shank of the hitch setups to get the ball as close to the rear bumper as possible, sometimes only an inch or two, for safer handling. They have set up thousands of vehicles of all sizes for towing.
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Old 02-27-2016, 06:17 PM   #30
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We have a 1500 Ram, pulling a 20' FC and had the same problem. It was easily resolved by rotating the jack head 90 degrees.
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Old 02-27-2016, 07:55 PM   #31
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I haven't seen it mentioned yet but the jack motor can be turned by just loosening the set screw and twisting it. Be sure to read the manual.
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Old 02-27-2016, 08:20 PM   #32
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I think the jack motor head can be turned 90 degrees.
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Old 02-27-2016, 08:46 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KWN306 View Post
I have a 2000 Dodge Ram 3/4 ton 4x4 that I pull our 23 FB with. I can not let the tail gate down on the truck without it hitting the electric jack and damaging my truck.

I have hooked up my neighbors 2013 Ford F-150 Eco Boost and the problem is worse.

I have had two AS dealers look at my hitch set up and they say it is spot on and if I went with a longer shank I would have towing issues.

Is this a problem with all pickups with AS?

Wife and I are looking to upgrade our TV, but this is an issue for us.
I have had a Toyota 4-Runner pulling a Hi-Lo and now a Ford F-150 pulling an Airstream.
BOTH vehicle's tailgates would foul the hitch when opened; BUT both vehicles had an upper window that was opened BEFORE hitching up.
That way I could gain access to bits and pieces that are needed when setting the trailer in place, or removing them and tossing them back into the T.V.

The dealers are right; I shortened my shank on the advise of Andy Thompson of CanAm in London, and it worked. No towing issues!

Once settled, I could open the tailgate to get at the rest of the 'stuff'.
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Old 02-27-2016, 09:07 PM   #34
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We had the same issue with our '06 Dodge 3500 towing a Classic 30'er. I got a longer shank from Anderson hitch so we could open the tailgate. We towed with that shank for 3 years and probably 40k miles. Got a '15 Ford F-350 this past summer and have towed 15k miles since August with absolutely no stability issues. If you do the math to enough decimal places I'm sure you can calculate fault with this arrangement but in practical application it's a non-issue as far as I'm concerned. If altering the electric jack would provide sufficient clearance I would suggest doing that as a first choice. I didn't think of that when I did mine. If not, go for the longer shank. I think mine was 2" longer.
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Old 02-27-2016, 09:31 PM   #35
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Roger, I think that helps make the point. Longer wheelbase makes less difference than shorter wheelbase with an extended shank, rear overhang being the same. It's the ratio that matters, not just one or the other.

The idea is too keep the effects of trailer sway or wind push or semi bow wave as low as possible.
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Old 02-27-2016, 09:48 PM   #36
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An alternative would be to get an air-gate tailgate, like people that tow fifth wheel and gooseneck trailers use. They have an area in the center of the tailgate that is lower in order to clear the goosenack. It will conveniently also miss the tongue jack when you lower the gate.
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Old 02-27-2016, 09:58 PM   #37
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My vehicle has a short wheelbase. When using a longer shank (maybe 2 or 3 inches longer) I did not feel any difference in stability of the trailer.
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Old 02-27-2016, 10:33 PM   #38
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Our jack came pre-rotated when we got the trailer. I can open the tailgate if the truck and trailer are aligned. At any other angle the gate will hit. I no longer even try to open the gate till the trailer is unhitched. Just put the items you need close to the back (for me that's chalks and leveling blocks). Then unload when unhitched. LMC truck makes a nice SS tailgate cap that is cheap and easy to install to cover any dings (not that I would know about that...).
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Old 02-28-2016, 09:04 AM   #39
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Doug, I agree and understand the physics under discussion here. Both of my trucks have been short wheelbased. I had never towed with the longer shank with my previous hitch arrangements so I can't speak to any comparisons. Upon installing the Anderson I came upon the tailgate opening matter and got the longer shank from Anderson and never looked back. That being said, had I given enough thought ( or asked here on the forum) I certainly would have considered turning the jack and keeping the shorter length shank. I found no stability issues using traditional WD hitches or more recently using the Anderson with the slightly longer shank. We tow a lot and find ourselves out west over the high passes and now here in sunny and flat Florida.
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Old 02-28-2016, 09:43 AM   #40
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I am not a truck person (I tow with an SUV), but especially because of this I am quite aware of shank lengths and also of the fact that each setup is very different. Even if only slightly different technically (comparing two similar setups), it is the person driving and setting up the connections who has to be comfortable with the stability and behavior of the trailer - this person is a major factor and a main reason why comparing just the technical aspects of individual setups is futile. Every setup is a compromise, taking into account convenience (i.e. being able to let the dog jump onto the truck's bed, access to the bed when on the road, etc) versus safety versus how much we count/notice small change in the behavior of the truck-trailer system. I believe it when some say they do not feel a big difference because the setup might be very very stable to start with and changing the shank length makes very little difference in the big picture. As always, there is no one size fites all solution, many factors involved. But an interesting discussion...
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Old 02-28-2016, 07:05 PM   #41
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KWN306, the missing piece of info here is your hitch (at least I missed it). What kind of hitch are you using? I used to tow our 27FB with a 2001 Dodge 2500 Cummins 4x4 8' bed using just an Equalizer hitch with plenty of clearance for the tailgate. But that might be the result of more room on the a-frame for a 27FB Classic vs your 23 footer. We upgraded this past year to a Ram 3500, but also added an AirSafe hitch to our Equalizer - which added another 10" of clearance. No sway or problems with that combo on the last two cross-country trips.
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Old 09-04-2017, 01:22 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KWN306 View Post
I have a 2000 Dodge Ram 3/4 ton 4x4 that I pull our 23 FB with. I can not let the tail gate down on the truck without it hitting the electric jack and damaging my truck.

I have hooked up my neighbors 2013 Ford F-150 Eco Boost and the problem is worse.

I have had two AS dealers look at my hitch set up and they say it is spot on and if I went with a longer shank I would have towing issues.

Is this a problem with all pickups with AS?

Wife and I are looking to upgrade our TV, but this is an issue for us.
I had a GMC 1500 and the tail gate was fine.
I purchased a RAM 1500 where the bed size is a bit taller and just tall enough to present the same problem you are experiencing. The gate hits the jack motor in the open position.
Solution - go online and select the ball shank of your choice. I had a 12 inch shank rated at 1000/10000 and I replaced it with an 18 inch shank rated at 1400/14000. Boom.
Both shanks are 2 inch, made by Equalizer, cost ~$175 for the 18 inch.

I have consulted professionals and their comments were the additional 6 inches will probably ADD control to what you already experience since you extended your wheel base with the new shank. So far, they are spot on.

https://www.equalizerhitch.com/store...-3-drop-7-rise
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