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Old 04-29-2012, 03:22 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by asianmack View Post
I hear next year Jeep will release a Diesel Grand Cherokee. Really looking forward to trading up to that tow vehicle. Thanks for sharing your experience with the air suspension.
The 3.0L CRD diesel has been available in Canada for several years...
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Old 04-29-2012, 03:34 PM   #16
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It looks like you are slowly getting there. I fiddled with my set up for about a year before I achieved a delta on the Jeep axels of about 150# and I was happy with that for years. Then I got a new Jeep and changed to a reese dual cam and I got to a delta of about 100#. I was happy with that for more years. When I eventually moved east and close to Can Am, they adjusted the angle of the hitch down and moved the hitch closer to the rear axel. The delta was about 50# and the whole mess seamed to track as one. Perfect. Now I'm getting new stuff and the process will start again, except this time I will start at Can Am with a Hensley.
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Old 04-29-2012, 03:48 PM   #17
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As Jim noted, your making good progress!!

Remember, more drop in the stinger will also improve weight transfer because the trailer is level and a more even weight balance is applied to the trailer and steering axle.

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Old 07-10-2012, 10:48 PM   #18
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Thanks!

Sorry if this is bringing a thread back from the dead, but I just wanted to say thanks for posting this! I too own a 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the load leveling air suspension and was curious how it would affect setting up a WDH.

I'll have to check the manual on how to disable the system, but my original thought before seeing this thread was to pull the fuse/relay for the air system to disable it, then attach the WDH and measure everything like a spring system until its where I want it. Then replace the fuse/relay and let the air system determine any fine adjustments from there.

Have you played with you WDH setup anymore since you're last post?

Dan
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Old 07-11-2012, 01:37 AM   #19
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I also recently purchased a new Jeep Grand Cherokee with air suspension and appreciate this thread. We will be hooking up tomorrow for the first time and going on short test camp - through the coastal mountains to the beach for three days. So far, my biggest challenge has been recalibrating the shank size to get the right height for the hitch ball. My previous Jeep had a higher receiver and settled down about an 1" after setup. I beleive the new Jeep will not settle with the air suspension.

FYI - The Quadralift/air suspension system can be disabled by pressing and holding the two adjustment buttons at the same time for several seconds until the indicator lights stop flashing. The Jeep must be parked with the engine running. The system will automatically reactivate when the car is re-started and driven.

Also looking for an update from idroba on both the Jeep and his new Andersen hitch.

~ Ken
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Old 07-11-2012, 07:13 PM   #20
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Ken and others:

I just got my new coupler welded on, this morning. The old one on the Argosy had stress cracks in the inner cup and I was not confident of it's strength. I am currently camping in a great site at Lake Alva in Montana. First swim of the season too.

What I have learned about the Grand Cherokee since the last posts: You can disable the Air Suspension by pressing the UP and DOWN buttons at the same time and then at least the system will not be fighting you on setup of a WD hitch. A normal WD hitch will set up the same as usual, BUT you need to be on a level spot with hard surfaces to begin with, prior to turning the suspension off (engine running, all doors closed). If you are not on a level spot the air suspension may have already "adjusted for cosmetic reasons" (Jeeps language) and all bets are off then. So, start on a level surface with the trailer level behind you. Then you can use the visual and fender measurement system to set up the hitch.

Now, it is much better if you do it on scales, I really believe that, but it can be done the older way. Only with the scales can you really see what is happening when you set the hitch up and see the weight transfer to the front of the TV and off the rear. It is very easy to get the Air Suspension involved and things look fine, and even may feel fine, but the rear can be overloaded. Only the scales will give you the confidence that you have in fact moved the tongue weight forward on the TV.

The new Jeep is a very good TV. I love the power with the Hemi I ordered, and the Air Suspension. The trailer tows as if the Jeep alone was the only thing I am driving. I had one 900 mile trip with the older Draw Tight hitch, which was too high for the Argosy (I needed a drop shank, and had not purchased one yet and was towing the Argosy 2" high in the front). It still was a pleasure. I have only about 250 miles of towing experience with the new Andersen hitch, and it is even better. So I don't duplicate, see my posts on the Anderson thread, to be updated as soon as I finish this one.

Again, bottom line on the Jeep with the Air Suspension. It works very well.
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Old 11-10-2015, 11:43 AM   #21
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Valuable thread despite age

I wish I had read this entire thread before my 13,700 mile trip from Seattle to St. John's, Newfoundland on our new 2015 23FB and 2014 Grand Cherokee 3.0 L Ecodiesel Summit using an Equalizer hitch. I got 16.4 mpg overall while towing and this week got 31.8 mpg on I-5 from Seattle to Orange County at overall average of 65 mph without the AS.

Bottom line: this thread addresses all the issues I had to learn for myself. Good learning, but lots of frustration hitching and unhitching on non-level ground. Scales were most helpful in verifying that the leveling from air suspension (Quadralift) was true weight distribution and not just "cosmetic".

The set up was fantastic while driving in all kinds of severe weather (including unexpected late season light snow in MT passes), road conditions, heavy trucks passing, and steep terrain. Absolutely no white knuckle experiences, but more than a few curse words when hitching and unhitching until I figured out how critical level ground was for ease of connecting.

The UConnect system allows easy selection of tire changing mode that disables air suspension.

Critical Warning: Beware of the miswired DEF lines in this vehicle - but that is covered in another thread. See the Jeep Forum for more info.
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Old 11-10-2015, 05:41 PM   #22
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Westi,

I'm curious as to your difficulties hitching up on non-level ground. I have the same 2014 GC Diesel and FC23FB (2011) and simply lift with the tongue jack until the Equalizer bars slide onto the brackets. GC engine off, quadralift not disabled. I never use that pry bar that came with the Equalizer. The rear of the GC lifts without the quadralift fighting. My previous driveway was so steep that I had to bottom out the tongue jack to level the trailer after unhitching. We've enjoyed over 20,000 miles of easy towing with this combination.


Safe Travels,
Jamu Joe
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Old 11-10-2015, 06:02 PM   #23
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My 2012 Grand Cherokee has now been through 4 seasons of towing. (2012, 13, 14 and 15). Around 40,000 on the Jeep. Total towing miles I would have to look up (can't do that now) but I think about 15,000.

The Jeep has only had one warranty repair, the replacement of the back up camera. Otherwise it has been faultless. The air suspension continues to be very good, that is the same as the day I got it. Now, it sometimes does seem to have a mind of it's own but always comes back to working right within a few minutes. Some of that seems to be the result of using the trailer tongue jack to lift the tongue and thus the back of the Jeep. That sometimes confuses it, but again, tow a mile and it settles down to where it should be.

I set the Andersen hitch up with the help of Idaho state scales, which are left on when the scale house is closed. Once set up, I simply set the hitch chain nuts to the same number of threads exposed and I am good to go.

I continue to be completely happy with the Andersen hitch. The Argosy and Airstream both have tongue weights of 700# + or - 20#. I have towed often at 70 mph and a couple of times up to 85 mph, somewhat by accident. The Jeep and trailer always act as one unit, there is no feeling of separate parts. I think the 20" Jeep tires and air suspension contribute to that stability.

I like the tow/haul feature on my 6 speed automatic, but understand that no longer exists from 2014 and up with the newer 8 speed automatic.

I average about 13 mpg towing overall in the mountain NW and Montana. I am happy with my rig.
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Old 11-12-2015, 07:23 AM   #24
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[QUOTE=JamuJoe;1708601]Westi,

I'm curious as to your difficulties hitching up on non-level ground. I have the same 2014 GC Diesel and FC23FB (2011) and simply lift with the tongue jack until the Equalizer bars slide onto the brackets. GC engine off, quadralift not disabled. I never use that pry bar that came with the Equalizer. The rear of the GC lifts without the quadralift fighting. My previous driveway was so steep that I had to bottom out the tongue jack to level the trailer after unhitching. We've enjoyed over 20,000 miles of easy towing with this combination.


Safe Travels,
Jamu Joe

I found that there is a close relationship between ease of hookup (placing WD bars on AS frame bracket when TV and AS not very closely aligned on all planes) and the number of spacer washers used on the Equalizer hitch. With 6 washers the measured CAT scale weight to F and RvTV axles is almost exactly equal (within 100 lbs) and the rig is incredibly stable (14k miles all conditions experience), BUT hookup is often a challenge without near-perfect alignment. I actually lifted rear TV wheels off the ground with the tongue jack on a few occasions. Removing washers made hookup much easier - I did not need the lever and alignment was not important with only 4 washers. But the F - R weight distribution was more than 600 lbs difference (less to F axle) and handling noticeably "looser" for shorter trials of 50 miles. My sweet spot seems to be 5 washers. The key is learning all the adjustments and doing them yourself depending on your exact conditions. I used a very reputable hitch dealer, but they are not convenient when my circumstances require adjustment.

Overall, the 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee and 2015 23FB AS using an Equilizer hitch has been incredibly stable and easy to drive across thed continent under all kinds of conditions. But learning specifics of your setup is most helpful.
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Old 01-31-2016, 10:14 AM   #25
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Just traded 2004 grand cherokee for 2012 overland .Excited to tow with such a deluxe package .I have the equalizer set up from first jeep .hoping the shank height is close .Thinking about drilling a new hole in shank to "choke up "closer to the bumper. How close is too close .Any thoughts? Not a lot of choises for tow mirrors ,thinking mckesh ,but worried about scuffing paint ,cipa is the other option. Im also sufing trying to see if we can connect a rear view camera (on trailer) to the in dash Screen ,so far looks like a lot of hacking to pull it off. Getting trailer out of storage is a couple months away ,but I can't wait ! And I have to be close on set up as it's about 15 mile tow home. Just soldered prodigy 2 harness to the jeep harness, where do you guys like to mount the controler? Lower right,above gas pedal looks kind of out sight .
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Old 01-31-2016, 10:40 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by mazoolah View Post
Just traded 2004 grand cherokee for 2012 overland .Excited to tow with such a deluxe package .I have the equalizer set up from first jeep .hoping the shank height is close .Thinking about drilling a new hole in shank to "choke up "closer to the bumper. How close is too close .Any thoughts? Not a lot of choises for tow mirrors ,thinking mckesh ,but worried about scuffing paint ,cipa is the other option. Im also sufing trying to see if we can connect a rear view camera (on trailer) to the in dash Screen ,so far looks like a lot of hacking to pull it off. Getting trailer out of storage is a couple months away ,but I can't wait ! And I have to be close on set up as it's about 15 mile tow home. Just soldered prodigy 2 harness to the jeep harness, where do you guys like to mount the controler? Lower right,above gas pedal looks kind of out sight .
I think the hitch box on the 2012 is a lot higher than your 2004, and you may have to have a new hitch shank with a drop on it. I would not try to make it closer to the bumper by drilling a new hole for two reasons. The hitch box on the 2012 may not be deep enough to take more shank and the tailgate may not open to clear the trailer post jack.

I mounted my brake controller with industrial double sticky tape to the far left side panel of the dash, to the left of the steering column.
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Old 01-31-2016, 11:42 PM   #27
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@mazoola, I agree with idroba. I have owned each generation of Grand Cherokee and the first gen hitch was lower. I now use a 14" shank and EQ hitch with my 2012 GC, but a 17" would also work (I could not find a 17" at the time). Generally, the top of the ball should be about 18" above the ground. Try a test fit with your existing shank and EQ hitch head and measure the ball height. Allow for some drop for the Jeep to settle, depending on your suspension and cargo load. I have the air suspension and travel light, so not much drop.

Our 2012 Jeep GC has been a great tow vehicle - all over the western states.
~ Ken
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Old 02-01-2016, 12:56 AM   #28
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@mazoola, I mounted my P3 brake controller on the lower left near the hood release latch. It just plugged into the Jeep's tow-ready connector with an adapter that came with the factory tow package. Adapters are available at etrailer and Amazon.

~ Ken
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