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Old 08-21-2006, 08:37 PM   #15
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One more corection. The dealer located the plates 28" from the ball, not 18".
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Old 08-21-2006, 10:22 PM   #16
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Thanks for the picture Hiker..... it was just what I was looking for !!
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Old 08-22-2006, 02:59 PM   #17
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Perhaps the common "outrageous cost" and "not necessary" replies will appear, but I would like to say we have used a Hensley hitch for 4 years on our 2002 19' Bambi with the greatest possible satisfaction. I installed it myself and there was no problem with the gas line. Weight distribution is a snap and sway with a short-wheelbase tow vehicle does not occur. For example, a Mojave sandstorm pitted tow vehicle and trailer, but vehicle and trailer did not budge out of the lane we were driving in.
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Old 08-29-2006, 08:25 PM   #18
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Thanks for the feedback everyone and especially for the pictures Hiker !!

Ordered the Equalizer from RVWholesaler. Could not find a better deal anywhere else and they had free shipping. I talked to the folks at Equalizer and RVWholesaler and both recommended the 1000/10,000 model. It came in yesterday. I just finished setting up the head unit. Fortunately my 3/4 Drive Socket fit just fine. Cinched it up with my 3/4 aire ratchet then double checked the tightness with a 3/4 breaker bar.

I'll finish the setup on Saturday. I'm anxious to see the difference.

Thanks again !!
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Old 08-29-2006, 09:50 PM   #19
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I also got the Equalizer 1000/10,000 model for my 19' ccd. The Dealer installed it. They did not re-locate the gas line. I have a 1/2 Ton Toyota Tundra TRD 4x4.

I was reading some other posts after I got the Hitch. 64Vette - What alleviated your concerns on the stiff suspension / ride? and going with the 6000 vs the 10,000 lb. Hitch?
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Old 08-29-2006, 11:02 PM   #20
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Thought that I might chime in on this Equal-I-Zer thread. I have a 600/6000 on my 19CCD. Works flawlessly! When I did the install, I removed the retaining clamps that hold the LP line and lowered it to allow the bolts for the frame clamp to snug right up to the bottom of the trailer frame. This leaves no room for possible rubbing and abrasion of the LP line by the hitch frame clamp and retaining bolt. It also allows you to position the clamp exactly at 32" as directed by the install instructions.
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Old 08-29-2006, 11:21 PM   #21
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Lew,

Glad you chimed in. With full LP tanks, a full water tank and bigger batteries is your tongue weight still below 600#?

JDL
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Old 08-30-2006, 10:53 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by JDL
Lew,

Glad you chimed in. With full LP tanks, a full water tank and bigger batteries is your tongue weight still below 600#?

JDL
460 last time I checked it. I counter-balance by carrying most things behind the axel, as the Sprinter is only rated for 500lb. tongue weight.
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Old 08-30-2006, 11:40 AM   #23
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Lewster, that is how I am planning to install my brackets. The tech at the dealer told me AS would void the warranty it I did that, because it was altering their design. Can't imagine why though. He also told me the gas line was galvanized pipe.....I brought him around and pointed out that it was copper tubing..

JDL, I sent a reply to your PM. I would guess there are about as many 19' models using an Equalizer system that are running the 600/6000 as the 1000/10,000. I thought about this for about 3 days. Read a lot of posts on this forum, called the Equalizer folks and RVWholesale. Both recommended the 1000# model. Sure wish there was a way to try out both models before purchasing one. I asked the guy at Equalizer if they had plans to offer a model between the 600# & 1000# (like an 800#) and he said he was not aware of any plans to do so.

Hope to finish the set up on Saturday..
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Old 08-30-2006, 07:49 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 64Vette
Lewster, that is how I am planning to install my brackets. The tech at the dealer told me AS would void the warranty it I did that, because it was altering their design. Can't imagine why though. He also told me the gas line was galvanized pipe.....I brought him around and pointed out that it was copper tubing..

JDL, I sent a reply to your PM. I would guess there are about as many 19' models using an Equalizer system that are running the 600/6000 as the 1000/10,000. I thought about this for about 3 days. Read a lot of posts on this forum, called the Equalizer folks and RVWholesale. Both recommended the 1000# model. Sure wish there was a way to try out both models before purchasing one. I asked the guy at Equalizer if they had plans to offer a model between the 600# & 1000# (like an 800#) and he said he was not aware of any plans to do so.

Hope to finish the set up on Saturday..
64,

Just goes to show why I'm in business . Most garden variety RV techs just don't get it!!!! Look inside the trailer and you'll see that the LP lines (copper, OF COURSE!!!) are curved, bent and run all over the place. Tweaking it 1/2" to allow you to slip the EQ bolt in between IS the way to do it. PLUS, you're close enough to the flex line that comes from the regulator to have virtually no effect on the line at all!!!

Just my 2 cents worth...............
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Old 08-30-2006, 11:00 PM   #25
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64Vette - I double checked my setup again. The dealer mounted mine at 29 inches from the coupler. This allowed about 1/3 of an inch clarence from the gas line. It does not rub. Now, the owner before me had a Hensley. Based on the missing paint I would say it did rub! Also, sent you a PM. Thanks

Lew - Thanks.

JDL
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Old 08-31-2006, 11:55 AM   #26
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Whoops !! I hope the photo shows up now
Hmmmm....think I would move this so as not to pinch that LP line. Put the line under the bolt.

I had a similiar situation with locating the LP brackets and the recomended distance from the ball...called EQ and they said it was cool to move it a few inches either way. I did, and it works fine. Have used an EQ for many years, can't be beat for the $ (or maybe any price???)

EQ has great tech support, don't be afraid to call. They can walk you through just about any situation...

Best of luck on the new unit!
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Old 08-31-2006, 01:01 PM   #27
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My thoughts on going with the 1,000# bars. If you go with the heavier bars, you can always adjust the weight distribution off of the front axels by removing one of the washers or moving the angle brackets down one hole (I think it's down, check the owner's manual to be sure). But if you get too small of a set of bars, you cannot add larger ones to the head, you have to get an entirely new setup to increase the capcity. In other words, if you get more than you need, you can adjust down, but if you get too small, you are stuck.

I discussed my trailer's tongue weight and the loads that I plan to carry in the back of my truck with a local trailer shop (who knew I would be buying from a dealer in another state) and he recommended going with the larger size. After the fact, a call to the Equal-i-zer factory confirmed my decision.
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Old 08-31-2006, 09:01 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillTex
Hmmmm....think I would move this so as not to pinch that LP line. Put the line under the bolt.

I had a similiar situation with locating the LP brackets and the recomended distance from the ball...called EQ and they said it was cool to move it a few inches either way. I did, and it works fine. Have used an EQ for many years, can't be beat for the $ (or maybe any price???)

EQ has great tech support, don't be afraid to call. They can walk you through just about any situation...

Best of luck on the new unit!
BillTex,

Thanks for your comments. I'm not sure I understand why changing the distance of the link plates to the ball makes it easier to put the bolt closer to the bottom of the trailer frame. You still have to remove the retaining clamps that hold the LP line and lower the line. I understand that lowering the line allows the bolt to be placed one hole closer to the bottom of the frame, but why does this matter?
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