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Old 07-28-2008, 12:05 PM   #15
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Woops I already have a 4"

Silly me.....I called the HAHA company today and was told I have a 4" drop (measured from the top to the top of the bottom bar).

I guess the only alternative is to crank it up the next time out and see if the trailer levels itself.

The guy I talked to said not to worry about the truck and just the trailer.
"Just look for the ride you like" (after adjusting the spring bars) and if it's still unleveled then maybe change the 4" for a 2" drop bar. (no one ever suggested a 2" on the forum)

Being a newbie...to me the drive was just fine (1,000 miles each way to the Grand Canyon and back) but when I stopped for fuel/eats I noticed the forward slant.

Thanks!
Dennis
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Old 07-28-2008, 12:41 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by millvalleyca View Post
Silly me.....I called the HAHA company today and was told I have a 4" drop...

I guess the only alternative is to crank it up the next time out and see if the trailer levels itself.

The guy I talked to said not to worry about the truck and just the trailer.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2air'
...for some reason, i mistakenly though u had a 4

if the trailer can be made LEVEL you will have confirmed it's the right bar...
i towed ya so...

based on the pic u put in the haha thread, it looked like 4.

get the trailer level has been the mantra all along...

but DON'T "not worry' about the truck.

AXEL weights matter too...

cheers
2air'
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Old 07-29-2008, 10:56 AM   #17
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I towed ya so? I like it. You must have talked to G-rod (Jarrod the exhalted haha tech). I think we talked about the jack holes on the other forum. You won't notice a difference between 2 and 3 holes showing, but always best to go with the manual. I've towed three different trailers with four different vehicles with my haha. I've expereminted with 2 holes, 3 holes, and everything in between (just kidding, please don't drill a 2 1/2 hole). It really makes little difference in the ride or the leveling of truck or trailer. In some cases, though, using the wrong hole may make it difficult to allign the head.
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Old 07-30-2008, 02:49 PM   #18
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FB Storage

Hi guys

Do you think storing too much in the FB outer storage has anything to do with me being unleveled?

The storage unit is under the bed and accessed right behind the tongue jack.

I'm gonna weigh what I have in there (chairs/table/hammock) I'm guessing 100 or so pounds of stuff.

Does it make any difference if I transfer some of the heavier items to the truck bed?

Just wondering
Dennis
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Old 07-30-2008, 03:00 PM   #19
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millva...

it really depends on the actual TONGUE weight,

along with the proper jack tension and stinger drop.

IF the tongue mass is >1000lbs there could be issues using 1000 lb spring bars.

as my unit's tongue mass went over 1200 lbs, the lesser spring bars were no longer adequate 4 weight distribution...

but your tongue mass should be under 1k lbs.

so IF/when u weigh the trailer and tv axles, don't forget to get a tongue weight too...

moving gear from the trailer to the truck bed does put that load directly over the tv axles...

but lightening the trailer tongue (below 10%) can affect handling negatively.

it's all related and adjusting one thing impacts everything else...

this is one of the reasons to have a BIG tow beast with extra capacity,

and why trying to limit loads to 80% of a given rating is a good thing.

cheers
2air'
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Old 07-30-2008, 08:50 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by millvalleyca View Post
Hi guys
I'm gonna weigh what I have in there (chairs/table/hammock) I'm guessing 100 or so pounds of stuff.

Does it make any difference if I transfer some of the heavier items to the truck bed?
Dennis, I think you'd have a hard time recognizing the difference with moving only 100lbs from under the bed to the bed of the truck.
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Old 08-04-2008, 07:07 PM   #21
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Strut location changed

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You may want to drop your strut bar to the bottom hole on the frame bracket. An Airstream has what the haha company calls an A-style coupler and the bottom hole makes the strut the most level.
Hi Sean,

Per your advice, while waiting at the dealer for them to troubleshoot my Dometic fridge, I did go ahead and drop the strut bar to the bottom hole.

I was careful to count the exact # of rotations on the strut bar "nut" when I loosened them to ensure I put it back the same way.

When my Hensley was installed, it turned out that the mounts were slightly different lengths (22" road/driver side and 22 3/8" passenger/road side) causing some issue that I can't remember anymore.

So they compensated for this by having one strut bar longer than the other and they told me that if I ever needed to remove the strut bar to count the exact # of turns on the nut and put it back the same...

I have not tried hooking up and pulling with it since the change this afternoon, but the Colorado trip will be on Wednesday.

I figure if it starts feeling funny I'll go back to the 2nd hole...

Not sure what ride difference or other difference to expect on the bottom hole.
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Old 08-04-2008, 08:12 PM   #22
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Hi Kevin,

You won't notice any difference in the holes. The bottom hole just makes the strut more level and puts the load more down the shaft of the strut.

That is exactly the way to install the strut bars when your frame brackets are positioned differently from the center of the ball. The strut has plenty of adjustment to handle that and squares the main head up to the front of the trailer. This allows the links to run parallel and in the direction of travel.

Sounds like you are dialed in.
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Old 08-27-2008, 12:07 PM   #23
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I had a issue close to yours, The problem is You probably dont need weight distribution hitch. The local camper place told me buy the lightest bars and just make them taunt. Plus Ford trucks come with a rake on them, so when they are level that means they have a load. I think it is a 1 inch differnce between back and front
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