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Old 08-06-2008, 10:49 AM   #21
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1967 26' Overlander
Owings Mills , MD
Join Date: Jun 2008
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1. Follow a rigorous maintenance schedule with fluid changes at recommended intervals.
2. Install temperature gauges for oil, transmission and rear differential.
3. Use the highest quality synthetic lubricants available.
4. Find a good forum specific to your vehicle and read about what other owners have done to modify the vehicle to improve towing.
5. Install rear suspension stablization e.g., airbags or a system like the Roadmaster Active Suspension.
6. Install high quality trailer mirrors.
7. Install a deep cycle battery/dual battery system.
8. Ensure good cooling characteristics for the engine and drive train. Consider aftermarket additions to provide additional cooling or increased fluid capacity.
9. Run properly rated and inflated tires on the tow vehicle and the trailer. Consider a TPMS, particularly for a single axle trailer.
10. Mount a rear view camera on the back of the tow vehicle (hitch monitoring/hook up) and the back of the trailer (who's tailgating).
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Old 09-02-2008, 09:14 PM   #22
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1999 27' Safari
Kent , Ohio
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Mobil 1 oil 5000 miles and a tire rotation. No autozone parts,when/if needed. tire rotation with oil change
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Old 10-27-2008, 10:21 AM   #23
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2006 28' International CCD
Redmond , Washington
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TV & Airstream Tire Pressure Monitoring System

PressurePro Tire Pressure Monitoring System TPMS Pressure Pro
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Old 12-26-2008, 06:02 PM   #24
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1966 26' Overlander
Phoenix , Arizona
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All TV's I buy get all fluids changed (except the rear axle) after I buy them used. So I can start a maintence schedule. My schedule is much shorter than typical. Especially the auto tranny!

In addition the auto tranny gets an extra cooler no matter what it had when I bought it. If it is a van I also install an electric rad fan.

Running cool in the SW is a big concern.

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Old 12-27-2008, 11:50 AM   #25
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1978 31' Sovereign
Texas Airstream Harbor , Zavalla, in the Deep East Texas Piney Woods on Lake Sam Rayburn
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2005 Excursion TV Front Hitch Installation

2005 Front Hitch Installation

This may have been been covered previously for other models and makes of hitches, but here is the skinny on my Draw-Tite Front Hitch installation.

First - my newly acquired 2005 Excursion Limited - 4X4 with 35,000 miles.





Taking off the bumber was no real challange - 2 each 18mm socket frame bolts and 2 each 1/2" socket lower support bolts on each side and it slid forward so I could remove the bulbs and wiring harness from the fog lights.

I then slid the bumper off and moved it to a temporary storage.





The instructions for this Draw-tite hitch from etrailer said that installation time was about 1 1/2 hour - HA! Maybe for two experienced installers working together

- maybe -

but for one first time installer working alone - no way.

Other than the 4 hours it took to put on, the install really went fairly slick.

The front tow bars need to be removed prior to installing the hitch - the opening is not large enough to slip over the tow hooks.




The installation of the hitch bar itself is certainly a one man job - I had no trouble up to this point.



The hitch was shipped as promised (3 day delivery) for a bit under two hundred bucks.




Now, here's where the fun began - the instructions said the fog lights would have to removed - it took a couple of times "on and off" to devise a way to keep the lights.

Below is a shot of the original light mount from the back.




I thought I could just turn the mount around a gain the inch necessary to clear the new front hitch mount. Here is what a simple reversal looked like.




If you notice, there is an offset on the single bolt side of the light mount - I reversed the mount locations (right to left AND front to back), did a test fit, and found a solution.





Here is a back shot with both of the light mounts reversed and bolted in.



Instead of drilling and tapping the bottom (single) mount, I drilled two 1/8" holes in each and buttoned it down with 1/2" long rivets. Here is a shot of the hitch, bumper, and lights installed on the frame mounts.




Notice the difference from the original light position.



One of the advantages of reversing the light mounts is that the lights are now mounted slightly outboard from the original location, this allows for easier access to the hitch receiver area for changing shanks.




I like the design of this particular hitch. I wanted one that would access THROUGH the bumper instead of under it. I think the under bumper type of front hitch has interference problems with the lower front "breaker bar", and, even with the problems I encountered I would go this route again...but...if you could find a shop you trust, and would quote a reasonable rate, I think a "turn-key" installation might be attractive for those of us somewhat mechanically challenged.
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