which wire is the backup wire- rearexterior backup, stop turn light

[waninae39]

i plan to use the TV running light as a power source
these already go to the rear light assembly.
this is much better than using BU light

WHY, i can turn the camera on when i everi turn the TV driving lights on. Thus I can see behind me even on the road. not possible if you use the BU lights. thus the camera will be off when no TV is connected. When backing up, just turn your light on

this will be simple to wire.
i will use a meter to see which wire is hot at the read lamp assembly

[Boxite]

Originally Posted by uncle_bob

Hi

So basically you ran all the "important" stuff up to the hitch and did the control there? That's the same approach as Ford wants you to do with their aftermarket camera.

Bob

I'm not following your summary, Bob.... There is no "important stuff" to a coax cable, which is all I ran up to the hitch (where it can plug into the TV.)

The Peak camera and monitor is a wireless camera. The only problem I've run into had a simple solution: The camera talks to a transmitter which Peak wants you to mount "anywhere convenient" ...and it will Bluetooth-connect to their monitor. The problem I ran into was that if any security system in a shopping center or convenience store had a Bluetooth camera in the beer-cooler...my monitor would either display the inside of the beer cooler or bank-vault... or it'd get "static-y". So I mounted the transmitter up nearer the monitor where it's signal to the monitor was so strong it overpowered any other interference and works perfectly.
So I guess what I'm saying is...the only "important" components are the camera, transmitter, monitor.... and I mounted my monitor above my rearview mirror and mounted the transmitters (one for the TV camera and one for the AS camera) inside my drivers-side doorpost (an easy thing to do in most PU's.)

The camera on the rear of the AS talks via the coax I ran to the front of the trailer...plugs into the rear of the TV (using a common 4-pole trailer light-plug/receptacle).... then the signal proceeds via more coax to the transmitter up near the monitor. (If you're willing to put up with occasional static from nearby security systems...then you don't have to locate the transmitter anywhere near the monitor.... OR if you're planning a heist at the convenience-store/bank-vault than don't even bother installing a camera and transmitter...all you need is the monitor.)

I posted the link to the product I used, a 3.5" monitor. (Peak also offers a 4.5" monitor...and although a larger monitor...that 4.5" unit has the transmitter self-contained in the camera. I've installed one of those for a friend in his PU and it worked great for a backup camera for the PU...but I don't know if it can transmit far enough to penetrate all the way thru a trailer and a vehicle.)
The 3.5" unit with remote, wireless transmitter is the one I know works very well for the $89 price-tag Amazon charges. JUST BE CERTAIN TO ORDER AN EXTENSION CABLE FROM THEM AS WELL if you plan to make a long run from camera on the rear of a trailer all the way to the cockpit of your TV....although you can also use common hook-up wire to accomplish the same thing. The "coax" term I used is actually a 3-wire cable.... a black and a red wire, with one of them wrapped in bare-wire , presumeably as a noise-shield/ground. Needing still more cable than I ordered I simply added 3 strands of common hook-up wire (18-ga) and it works just fine.

[switz]

On the Classic, we powered the backup camera from the 12Vdc power in line to the roof locker reading light with an on/off switch for the camera inside the roof locker. We installed additional LED reverse lamps welded to the rear frame rails with a power switch in the rear outside storage locker.

In the 23D, we took power from the dome light 12Vdc power connector in the rear roof locker and installed a lighted switch on the face of the roof locker when the camera power was on.

Also on the 23D, we retrofitted LED reverse lamps by welding their mounting brackets to the frame rails like we did on the Classic. They come on when the tow vehicle goes into reverse gear or with a switch by the door inside the trailer.

[Boxite]

BTW, for those interested in installing backup lighting for use with a rear view camera.... Let me suggest that you NOT use LED lighting for that purpose...stay with incandescent/halogen lamps.

I forgot what I knew about this from my experience with aircraft landing/taxi lights. While LEDs are less demanding from a power-supply perspective....they do NOT illuminate objects as well from the point of reflected light. (For anticollision purposes they are fantastic... but to adequately observe objects on the runway or while backing a trailer...one also needs reflected light which includes object shapes using "scatter effect" from incandescent lamps. LEDs do not do that.
Additionally, many cameras used portions of the light spectrum of incandescents to portray objects on a monitor. There is less "infrared/scatter" from LEDs and this makes the monitor disregard important features of inanimate objects such as rocks, logs, etc.
I plan to replace the LED backup lights I installed on my AS with incandescent.

[uncle_bob]

Hi

White light LED's are like fluorescent lights. They run in the UV and use phosphors to turn the UV into R,G,B light we can see. Depending on the phosphor mix in this or that LED it may be a little more blue or a little more yellow than the next model over on the shelf. Halogen lights run a hot filament to give you black body radiation. They generate a full spectrum going from deep infared into the UV. Some of that gets blocked before it gets out of the bulb, but it is generated. Halogens can generate hundreds of thousands of lumens of light in a small package if needed. LED's get heavy if you want to do that sort of thing.

Lasers have a very narrow optical output range compared to halogens or each of the phosphors in a white LED. You get a red laser or a green laser. You don't get a white laser. To get close to white light with a laser you need to run a red one, a blue one and a green one independent of the others. You still have very narrow frequency range "spikes" of light. You simply have three spikes. If you looked at an LED's output on the same scale you would see broad humps that run into each other on a similar scale. Because of this "monochromatic" issue, we don't use lasers for flashlights or room lights. We do use them for concert lighting where Rayleigh scattering makes them "sparkle". The same effect is what gives you dead spots in a room when you are on your cell phone.

LED's in headlights, tail lights, room lights, cell phone lights, camera lights, and flashlights all work the same way. The same is true of halogens used in all those applications. If you are running an IR camera then use LED's or other bulbs made for IR applications. Beyond that, they are commonly interchanged without issue in a wide range of applications. The manufacturer installed backup cameras on all my cars and trucks are illuminated with LED's (but not with lasers).

Bob

[Boxite]

That's all nice and technically interesting but the bottom line is that the 48 brilliant LEDs in the backup lights I installed barely illuminate only a small area viewable with the camera.... but the wife can point a common, incandescent flashlight into the general area and ALL DETAILS of a wide-area suddenly become as visible as in broad daylight.

The LEDs would be fine for blinding someone coming head-on tho'...

[uncle_bob]

Originally Posted by Boxite

That's all nice and technically interesting but the bottom line is that the 48 brilliant LEDs in the backup lights I installed barely illuminate only a small area viewable with the camera.... but the wife can point a common, incandescent flashlight into the general area and ALL DETAILS of a wide-area suddenly become as visible as in broad daylight.

The LEDs would be fine for blinding someone coming head-on tho'...

Hi

One tiny little LED on the backup camera on my rig illuminates at least 20' back. Sounds like your camera has a problem.

Bob

[Boxite]

Originally Posted by uncle_bob

Hi

One tiny little LED on the backup camera on my rig illuminates at least 20' back. Sounds like your camera has a problem.

Bob

NOT the camera! The camera is fine...in fact it's better than most I've used. This camera is excellent with very little light.
I actually stated previously...(apparently you didn't read)...that an ordinary flashlight held by the wife back there completely illuminates using this camera.

It's the lousy illumintation from the LEDs...despite the fact they are brilliant...they do not offer reflected light.

[uncle_bob]

Originally Posted by Boxite

NOT the camera! The camera is fine...in fact it's better than most I've used. This camera is excellent with very little light.
I actually stated previously...(apparently you didn't read)...that an ordinary flashlight held by the wife back there completely illuminates using this camera.

It's the lousy illumintation from the LEDs...despite the fact they are brilliant...they do not offer reflected light.

Hi

Sorry, but this simply isn't part of the way physics works. Light goes out and light bounces back. Your camera has a problem with how it manages the color spectrum. That's what is giving you these bizarre results. It's not some undocumented anywhere fault of an LED. The idea that we all have to toss out LED's and go back to halogens is not correct. Check your camera with your LED's and move on. If you have spectrum issues, get a camera that has better color / frequency / wavelength response.

Bob

[Boxite]

Originally Posted by uncle_bob

Hi

Sorry, but this simply isn't part of the way physics works. Light goes out and light bounces back. Your camera has a problem with how it manages the color spectrum. That's what is giving you these bizarre results. It's not some undocumented anywhere fault of an LED. The idea that we all have to toss out LED's and go back to halogens is not correct. Check your camera with your LED's and move on. If you have spectrum issues, get a camera that has better color / frequency / wavelength response.

Bob

Bob, you simply don't know what you're talking about. LEDs do not compare with incandescent in DIRECT-VIEW also. I"ve tried LED landing/taxi lights in my airplane and I reverted back to incandescent because incandescent light up the runway and taxiways better, it's just that simple. Don't think that you can "over the internet" diagnose what someone is seeing "in-person" just because it confuses what you think is true. You don't know what I'm seeing here... both using the camera...and using my own Mark-I eyeballs.

[uncle_bob]

Originally Posted by Boxite

Bob, you simply don't know what you're talking about. LEDs do not compare with incandescent in DIRECT-VIEW also. I"ve tried LED landing/taxi lights in my airplane and I reverted back to incandescent because incandescent light up the runway and taxiways better, it's just that simple. Don't think that you can "over the internet" diagnose what someone is seeing "in-person" just because it confuses what you think is true. You don't know what I'm seeing here... both using the camera...and using my own Mark-I eyeballs.

Hi

I have a house full of LED lighting, LED's on the car and truck, I have a trailer full of LED lighting. There's no mystery problem with any of it. We take pictures indoors at night under the LED's they come out fine. Same thing in the trailer. Same thing in the truck. If there is some magic here, it doesn't apply to any combo of picture taking gear and LED's I own. So that's my data with my gear. If you have a problem, it's unique to a combo of stuff you happen to own.

Bob

[Boxite]

Originally Posted by uncle_bob

Hi

I have a house full of LED lighting, LED's on the car and truck, I have a trailer full of LED lighting. There's no mystery problem with any of it. We take pictures indoors at night under the LED's they come out fine. Same thing in the trailer. Same thing in the truck. If there is some magic here, it doesn't apply to any combo of picture taking gear and LED's I own. So that's my data with my gear. If you have a problem, it's unique to a combo of stuff you happen to own.

Bob

Yes, I agree. It's the equipment I had installed. Specifically, It's the lousy LED lights I installed. Although the fixtures are full of individual LEDs...and although they are blinding to view directly... when looking at the objects to which they are directed... with the camera setup...as well as with bare eyeballs... they fail to illuminate objects in the dark as well as incandescent lamps of much lower intensity do.
I'm replacing them with ordinary incandescent fixtures (which are not particularly troublesome as far as electrical-load is concerned since they are only used for short periods ...and occasionally at that)... If you are still adamant about what you think you know about the two sets of LEDs I'm removing... I'll happily sell them to you for half-cost and I'll pay the postage.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[uncle_bob]

Hi

Quick hints for buying LED's:

Lumens matter. That's how you measure light output. Only buy ones that have a light output rating. It's not like incandescent bulbs where you could guess it from watts. The ones you linked to, I would not buy (even for half price). Not because I know they are bad. I would not buy them because they don't tell me if they are any good or not. When they leave that tidbit of information (light output) out ... be careful.

Next up: They *do* make red LED's. They are quite efficient. Putting a red cover over white LED's (*if* that's what they are doing) is a really bad idea. You are throwing away about 2/3 of the light output. Even if they do rate the output, you would have to wonder if it's with or without the cover.

For a reasonable "flash light" sort of thing, you should see numbers around 300 to 600 lumens. Big ones will do more, tiny ones will do less. For a indoor "60W" light bulb, numbers in the 900 to 1200 range are fairly normal. Ignore anything that talks about "equivalent watts", those numbers are never quite right.

Bob

[waninae39]

i plan to use one of the three roof mounted lights. they come on when the TV lights are on
that way i can turn on the BU camera just by putting the TV lights on

[Boxite]

Originally Posted by uncle_bob

Hi

Quick hints for buying LED's:

Lumens matter. That's how you measure light output. Only buy ones that have a light output rating. It's not like incandescent bulbs where you could guess it from watts. The ones you linked to, I would not buy (even for half price). Not because I know they are bad. I would not buy them because they don't tell me if they are any good or not. When they leave that tidbit of information (light output) out ... be careful.

Next up: They *do* make red LED's. They are quite efficient. Putting a red cover over white LED's (*if* that's what they are doing) is a really bad idea. You are throwing away about 2/3 of the light output. Even if they do rate the output, you would have to wonder if it's with or without the cover.

For a reasonable "flash light" sort of thing, you should see numbers around 300 to 600 lumens. Big ones will do more, tiny ones will do less. For a indoor "60W" light bulb, numbers in the 900 to 1200 range are fairly normal. Ignore anything that talks about "equivalent watts", those numbers are never quite right.

Bob

Firstly, ...these ARE WHITE lights, intended for backup/reverse lights. They are not red.
Also, it's important (for those who don't know) that colored lenses are actually FILTERS... in other words, a red lens blocks the majority of the light spectrum EXCEPT RED...allowing only red to pass thru the lens. Since a white lamp emits virtually ALL colors of the visible spectrum...MOST of the light emitted is prevented from passing thru the lens. Therefore, IF you really want a RED light... then the better solution is to have a RED LED... most of the light would therefore be allowed to pass and be viewed.
(I once mistakenly put a white LED behind an aviation-green lens...and the light which came thru was a dim BLUE.... While a white LED behind an aviation red lens displayed as dim AMBER! By changing the LEDs to a green one and a red one.... they came thru as brilliant green and red, respectively.)

I've changed my Amazon review of the subject backup-LEDs to indicate how deficient they are as backup/reverse lighting.

[uncle_bob]

Originally Posted by Boxite

Firstly, ...these ARE WHITE lights, intended for backup/reverse lights. They are not red.
Also, it's important (for those who don't know) that colored lenses are actually FILTERS... in other words, a red lens blocks the majority of the light spectrum EXCEPT RED...allowing only red to pass thru the lens. Since a white lamp emits virtually ALL colors of the visible spectrum...MOST of the light emitted is prevented from passing thru the lens. Therefore, IF you really want a RED light... then the better solution is to have a RED LED... most of the light would therefore be allowed to pass and be viewed.
(I once mistakenly put a white LED behind an aviation-green lens...and the light which came thru was a dim BLUE.... While a white LED behind an aviation red lens displayed as dim AMBER! By changing the LEDs to a green one and a red one.... they came thru as brilliant green and red, respectively.)

I've changed my Amazon review of the subject backup-LEDs to indicate how deficient they are as backup/reverse lighting.

Hi

The heart of all this is actually that a fluorescent or LED light emits three rather narrow color "spikes" of light. One is red, one is green, one is blue. Depending on just how much of each is in the mix, the light looks a bit more blue or a bit more yellow. A halogen or incandescent bulb emits a much broader spectrum of light. You can't make a halogen just generate red light, you *must* filter it. With an LED, it's actually much easier to make them just put out red light than some thing that looks like white light. Filtering an LED is not the best approach....

Bob

[waninae39]

The LED topic is is OFF TOPIC here. Its becoming science vs. belief. BTW Uncle Bob is correct with his facts

please post elsewhere.

these posts are for the wiring issue

[Boxite]

Originally Posted by uncle_bob

Hi

The heart of all this is actually that a fluorescent or LED light emits three rather narrow color "spikes" of light. One is red, one is green, one is blue. Depending on just how much of each is in the mix, the light looks a bit more blue or a bit more yellow. A halogen or incandescent bulb emits a much broader spectrum of light. You can't make a halogen just generate red light, you *must* filter it. With an LED, it's actually much easier to make them just put out red light than some thing that looks like white light. Filtering an LED is not the best approach....

Bob

Well, Bob... The "heart of all this"... has been completely missed as you and I have certainly Hi-Jacked this thread from it's original topic... which was to query what color wire AS used to power backup/running lights so the OP could power-up a camera.

[uncle_bob]

Hi

So totally unusual for any thread to go off topic here ....

Bob