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Old 05-03-2013, 09:27 PM   #57
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Ok, 2 new scale tickets. I moved the jacks to the bottom hole (the hook was in the middle previously). Good news, with 6.5" I was able to get 100% FALR. Not so good news: a) a little more porpoising b) front of trailer is now 1.5" higher than rear of trailer while towing. Tires didn't feel warm to the touch after a 120 mile trip to Chilly Man 7 today, but I'm not happy about the lack of level...

Here are the tickets:



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You may recall the adjusted truck alone (no TT, assumed me in the drivers seat etc.) steer axle was 4540. Moving the sway bar holder down to the bottom hole and putting about 6" on the jacks got steer to 4460. With 6.5", steer went to 4520 and given 20# scale anomalies, I can call that 100%.

So new view is as follows:



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And here are some pics of the updated setup.

1) about 1.5" higher at TT nose


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2) jacks connected at bottom hole (not middle)

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3) jacks at 7" from a-frame to bottom of jack sleeve. Proved too much. Backed off to 6 then 6.5 at scales. May go back to 6.

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Wide open to your thoughts and insights!!

Thanks again to Ron Gratz, slowmover and Sean at ProPride for the amazing support and insight!!!
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Old 05-03-2013, 10:04 PM   #58
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i can't tell from the picture but dropping the stinger one bolt hole should drop the trailer nose 1.5".
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Old 05-04-2013, 04:39 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richinny
i can't tell from the picture but dropping the stinger one bolt hole should drop the trailer nose 1.5".
Yes, I think I have room do that. What kind of impact (if any) would that have on scale weights?
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Old 05-04-2013, 05:09 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveSueMac View Post
Yes, I think I have room do that. What kind of impact (if any) would that have on scale weights?
Great Job...

Getting the trailer level should only change the weight on the AS axles.
With the low nose the front axle is carrying more weight...... your Porpoise will then be tamed!!

Bob
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Old 05-04-2013, 06:00 AM   #61
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Yes, I think I have room do that. What kind of impact (if any) would that have on scale weights?
more geometry questions! lol

i think it will increase the weight slightly on the truck's front axle. since in theory you're moving 1/3 of the tongue weight to the front axle weight should fall in just right if it does that. if it increases the weight too much, just lower the jacks a bit.

it doesn't matter what i think, just listen to the scale. you're doing fine!
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Old 05-04-2013, 06:10 AM   #62
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Thanks Bob and richinny. Yeah - geometry gives me hives! I'm going to attempt the stinger drop here at Chilly Man before heading out tomorrow morning. This is actually kind of fun!!
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Old 05-04-2013, 07:06 AM   #63
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Thanks Bob and richinny. Yeah - geometry gives me hives! I'm going to attempt the stinger drop here at Chilly Man before heading out tomorrow morning. This is actually kind of fun!!
If your stinger adjusts like my old Reese....


Make sure them mega-bolts are tight, like three foot breaker bar tight, 200+ lb/ft. tight.

Bob
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Old 05-04-2013, 10:24 AM   #64
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In the end I would choose level trailer loading. Neither nose-high nor low.

Working the range of possible adjustments can bring us to these decision points, but not without having tried them. Only at the end do the real options appear. And even then I may have to cycle through them a second time before all-around satisfaction. "Perfection" is likely rig-dependent.

My "test" is straight-line braking. Coming to a full emergency stop with TV & TT in a straight line and in the shortest distance; a two part proposition. Hard stops loads the front axle of both vehicles, so that is where I would stand looking at this rig to determine next best adjustment: as much as possible I want [8] brakes working "equally" hard (as hard as they can given the dynamics present) versus the load going to but [4] brakes.

Granted, this is harder to test (and hard on both vehicles), but one sets the conditions with a WD hitch for that end, IMO. Then, TV tire pressures. Setting the brake controller for different speeds (if so adjustable) as well as smooth and broken surfaces (or, sand or gravel) I would like to be the final piece, not an intermittent one which must be repeated according to WD adjustment. IOW, the brake controller is about the only device I would want to have to adjust for differing travel conditions (and you may wish to read up on the latest, DIRECLINK with optional trailer anti-lock for more).

.
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Old 05-04-2013, 01:24 PM   #65
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I dropped the stinger a hole and will let you know how it looks hitched in the morning.

Bob - those are 150 ft lbs per the ProPride manual. I carry a torque wrench with me (250#) to check lug nuts (110#) and the stinger. The breaker bar that comes with the hitch is perfect in the other side.

More later on the emergency stopping, slowmover!
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Old 05-05-2013, 04:58 PM   #66
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With stinger dropped one hole, I'm literally at 16" in all 4 corners. I'm going to call that a victory and yes, I'll be going back to the scales again probably next week.

Remember, I BACKED IN to Chilly Man 7 - which was awesome by the way! - and AFTER we were settled in, I made the change to the stinger. When I first disconnected, I took enough tension off the WD jacks so the bars just swung in the breeze so to speak. Well, when I tried to back in this morning to hitch up, nothing was working!!!! No matter how much we tried, we just could not get the stinger to go back! I've even done this myself several times no problem. We puzzled on that for about 45 minutes - diesel running the whole time (that must have been a thrill for our rally friends :-/ ). Then our neighbor Steve (who with his wife Barb have the most adorable '62 flying cloud!!!) came over and when he was looking at the setup he sort of kicked the WD bars and the were stiff! Loosening them all the way down made it work like a charm but also suggests that with this lower stinger height, it will take less tension to get weight on the front axle. So - we'll weigh it up again and hopefully will have it all dialed in next week.

Thanks for all the help here, via PMs and at Chilly Man - what a blast!!!!
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