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Old 04-15-2015, 06:30 PM   #1
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2006 28' International CCD
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What TV would you buy with these considerations?

Well, I just took our new-to-us 2006 28' International CCD to the scales today to see what our weight was and came back a little surprised. The tongue weight was 1,340# (the previous owner had four batteries installed on the A frame plus I have a Hensley attached) and the trailer weighed 6,860# fairly loaded with the exception being that all tanks were almost empty.

I currently have an '05 4.7 Toyota Sequoia and am pretty sure that it would not be the best tow vehicle to take my wife and two young kids from Memphis, TN out to Glacier National Park in this summer Too bad, because I really like the vehicle and would love to keep it.

I had a feeling that the weights were going to be pretty rough before I took it to the scale so I've been looking around the past few weeks trying to see what's out there. I found a 2013 Yukon XL 2500 4wd that's loaded and I could get it for a little under $32K but I don't have the cash to pay for it outright and would prefer not to have to pay a note for 3-4 years. So, my other thought is to try to get something around 8-10 years old that would be reliable and work well towing our trailer (and it's heavy tongue).

If I find the right vehicle that could double as a tow vehicle and my normal driving around town and pick up the kids vehicle then I could probably spend up to around 14-16K on it and sell or trade my sequoia. But I'd want it to have reasonably low miles. (Between 65K-100K if possible.) I've found a few 2003 - 2006 Suburban 2500's that fall into this price and mileage range.

Another option is that I could try to find an older vehicle with a 150K-200K miles for around 7K or less and keep it and the Sequoia. But I'm a little concerned about the reliability of a vehicle like that. I can't help but think that I could easily have to spend a few thousand more on it if things don't go well and it has problems right after purchasing. Plus should I be worried about breaking down while I'm 2,000 miles from home in that type of vehicle? So I'm not sure if going this route is a good idea or not.

Whatever I get, I need it to be 4wd and would prefer a gas engine since I'm not familiar with diesel engine upkeep (and the potential expense of said upkeep). I'm open to either SUV or 4door truck, but I lean toward SUV. I want enough payload capacity to handle me and the family plus four bikes on the roof or bed (about 100#) and probably up to another 250-300# of miscellaneous things I might bring on trips. But the biggest caveat is that whatever I get must fit into my normal sized garage. So that limits me to an overall length of around 245".

So, what would ya'll do? Any recommendations on what I should look for that may suit my needs and should be reliable without having to pour tons of money into? My brain is getting fried looking at different options and I need some help on this
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Old 04-15-2015, 06:45 PM   #2
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Although your suv is technically 7000#-7400# towing, and hensley should take care of the tongue weight, I believe what most people dont take into account is the brakes and drive trane. I'm a believer in 3/4 or 1 ton pickup for that reason. I know the trailer has brakes, but I want to know my TV can handle any situation. My truck has heavy everything, and can easily pull two of my trailers.
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Old 04-15-2015, 09:23 PM   #3
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well Jami20, you are asking for the moon and you are unlikely to get there.

i am of the mind that i don't want to undershoot on the TV so at minimum, a 3/4 ton PU with a crew cab. don't be too surprised if you have to add rear air bags to the suspension. there is nothing mysterious about a diesel engine so i would not let that get in the way of a decision. lots of folks use 1/2 ton PUs but you put yourself right at the weight limits in most cases as its not only the trailer but what you take along in the truck as well.

PUs are designed for this task so start searching, who knows, you may actually find a great used deal of the century.

i now tow with a 1 ton diesel and it is a world of difference i can tell you.
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Old 04-16-2015, 10:17 AM   #4
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Thank you for both of your thoughts.

Lahrfarm, I know what you're talking about when you mention brakes and drivetrain. That's my biggest concern. Plus the stated tow capacity for my Sequoia is 6,500#. So I'm already overloaded. And yes, I'm heavily leaning toward a 3/4 ton of some type whatever I do.

Got, I don't know if I'm asking for the moon. Of course in a perfect world we would all get everything we want without having to pay for it, but I know that's unrealistic

There are tradeoff's with positives and negatives for each option I'm considering. I could pay $30K or more and get a great newer vehicle (either truck or suv) with all the options I could desire plus a warranty and peace of mind, but I'd be paying on it longer and the extra expense could cut into my "fun money" funds. Compare that to spending less but getting less in return. I understand the dynamics. I'm just looking for thoughts and input from others that may help me come to well-educated decision.

And I'm not completely ruling out a diesel. But I am leaning heavily against it considering how I'll use the vehicle daily coupled with my complete unfamiliarity with them.
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Old 04-16-2015, 10:55 AM   #5
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I would talk to a towing expert. There are people here that will tell you to buy a newer larger truck for everything and as you've noticed then you don't end up with enough money for travel or your trailer sometimes and generally not safer. There are higher output cars like a 300C, panel vans and even minivans or some SUV with the right equip even that can do this and you won't have to go to 10 years used on your budget. Diesel is up to you.

Maybe a starting point is getting some of the weight off the front ! Do you need all those batteries ?
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Old 04-16-2015, 10:56 AM   #6
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We currently have a similar tongue weight that will be reduced by moving to a single LithiumIron Phosphate battery mounted under the front sofa. The existing four Lifeline model 6CT batteries are wired to create 12Vdc at 600 amp hours and weigh about 93 pounds each for a total 372 pounds.

The AM Solar replacement battery will have the same voltage and amp hours but weigh 168 pounds. While about 50% of the power is available with the Lifeline batteries, 85% to 90% of the power is available with the new battery.

We are towing with a heavily modified 2012 Dodge Ram 2500HD diesel and use a ProPride hitch head. We have all the going power we need and the engine exhaust break is sufficient enough that we hardly need to touch the brakes going down mountain grades. The Kelderman level ride air suspension system handles the load with never any sagging of the rear of the truck. With the Curt 15049 hitch assembly (we cut off the factory under rated factory receiver) rated 2,550 pounds of tongue weight and a 17,000 pound trailer weight, we have no issues with any Airstream.
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Old 04-16-2015, 11:05 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by switz View Post
We currently have a similar tongue weight that will be reduced by moving to a single LithiumIron Phosphate battery mounted under the front sofa. The existing four Lifeline model 6CT batteries are wired to create 12Vdc at 600 amp hours and weigh about 93 pounds each for a total 372 pounds.

The AM Solar replacement battery will have the same voltage and amp hours but weigh 168 pounds. While about 50% of the power is available with the Lifeline batteries, 85% to 90% of the power is available with the new battery.

We are towing with a heavily modified 2012 Dodge Ram 2500HD diesel and use a ProPride hitch head. We have all the going power we need and the engine exhaust break is sufficient enough that we hardly need to touch the brakes going down mountain grades. The Kelderman level ride air suspension system handles the load with never any sagging of the rear of the truck. With the Curt 15049 hitch assembly (we cut off the factory under rated factory receiver) rated 2,550 pounds of tongue weight and a 17,000 pound trailer weight, we have no issues with any Airstream.
> heavily modified 2012 Dodge Ram 2500HD diesel, rated 2,550 pounds of tongue weight and a 17,000 pound trailer weight

that should be enough !
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Old 04-16-2015, 11:08 AM   #8
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Timhortons, I'm not sure exactly where to start with finding a towing expert to talk to around my area. Is this something you do local or is the guy at CanAm the person to call. For some reason I just hate the idea of bothering someone that's so far away that I couldn't use his services.

Regarding the batteries, I'm thinking the same thing. I'm sure that they are helpful but I don't know if I really have the need for all four. This is especially true since I plan to pick up a couple of Honda generators (very hot here in the summer), although that would probably just be an equal switch in weight.

Switz, I'm just starting to dive into the world of Airstreams and am still learning when it comes to the electrical system and batteries. The lithium phosphate sounds interesting and like something I need to look into. What kind of cost would I be looking at and would I have to rework the electrical for it?

And it definitely looks like you have a vehicle that could handle any possible Airstream tow So you did the battery switch for increased power availability?
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Old 04-16-2015, 11:11 AM   #9
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A set of sealed batteries, relocated off of the A-frame and under a set or closet closer to the axle, would be cheaper than a new TV.
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Old 04-16-2015, 12:06 PM   #10
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I towed a Casita (3500lbs) with a 2005 4Runner with the 4.7L (5 speed transmission), 2x4 and thought it needed a little more oomph going up grades in the West. I usually drive 55 to 60mph and was in 3rd gear maintaining 55mph on the climbs from Sheridan, Wy to Billings, MT. With 7000lbs I'm not sure what it would do, maybe have to go to 2nd to maintain 50 or 55. This was on trips to Glacier from Texas. I got about 13 to 14mpg towing 60mph with the Casita.

I now have a 2010 Tundra 5.7L SR5 with the 6 speed transmission, double cab, 2x4. The only issue is the posted 1465lbs payload but my hitch weight is about 1150lbs. So the time I add two people and some chairs, portable solar panel, BBQ, 5lb propane tank, folding table etc in the back under my tonneau cover I'm probably over payload by several hundred pounds but the Tundra doesn't seem to complain.

Look at a Sequoia with the 5.7L. Check the payload sticker on the door. I'm not sure the payload will be any better than a Tundra. Also the higher trim levels reduce payload. Settle for an SR5 as a compromise.

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Old 04-16-2015, 11:00 PM   #11
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>I currently have an '05 4.7 Toyota Sequoia and am pretty sure that it would not be the best tow vehicle to take my wife and two young kids from Memphis, TN out to Glacier National Park in this summer

why not ? glancing at the specs with 300HP/300lbsft and the sheer size of the beast you should be fine if you can get your hitch "dialed in" right. Fuel economy will be horrific, but I assume the truck is paid for and toyota reliability is good.

Andy seems to enjoy talking to people about these issues. Worst he can do is say he's busy. Could be worth the drive to set up if it actually saves/postpones you a new truck. Go see the falls or something.
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Old 04-17-2015, 10:39 AM   #12
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Paid for is always good. I would try towing it with the Sequioa, but that is some serious tongue weight. Maybe you can reduce tongue weight by having less batteries or relocating the batteries. Good weight distribution will help, but I don't know if weight distribution will transfer all that weight.
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Old 04-17-2015, 11:28 AM   #13
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TW is too high for that TT. 19% and should be around 12-13%. Fix that first.
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Old 04-17-2015, 12:20 PM   #14
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Hmmm

I'm with slow mover. First & foremost, you gotta get that tongue weight corrected. That's a "bit much" shall we say.

Get that issue resolved, and then look for a newer 3/4T Yukon XL. GMC was pretty stupid IMHO to stop makin that rig. I have owned two of them. Both were 6.0L gas, 4x4's with the 4.10 rear end. If you can find one with the 3.73, snatch it up. The 4.10 is a BEAST for power, but you pay @ the fuel pump. The newer ones have the 6 speed tranny too, and along with a 3.73 rear end, they are not that bad on your wallet. You can throw anything in there & still be comfortable.
Just try & keep it under 70mph. Above that, and you might as well be spilling the fuel onto the ground.
Loved my two. They are absolute workhorses. That 6.0 is one proven block. They do burn about a quart of oil every 5-8k miles, and then you have the "piston slap" issue, but it's NBD. Go on git u one!
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Old 04-17-2015, 12:53 PM   #15
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I would have tried to pull your trailer with my 03 4.7 Dakota, and it has a 3.53 rear end. With 4WD your drive train is already a bit tougher and geared lower than that.

When I bought this truck our AS dealer said it would pull any trailer we cared to buy from them. I would have been a bit reticent to try a 34 mind you! We routionely take our '96 25 classic over the Top of Lake Superior...lots of 7% grades.

As someone noted, the Hensley gives a bit of an advantage since it extends the tongue length. I found that too with a new Hensley

I would try the vehicle for a few days on some really hilly country. Watch your Tranny Temp if it doesn't have a cooler. We installed 22,000 Btu on our Dakota when brand new.

Manufacturer ratings are not the best indicator of capability. They worry about liability and warranties. Talk to Either of the two Andys
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Old 04-17-2015, 01:41 PM   #16
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[QUOTE=JCWDCW;1609074]I would have tried to pull your trailer with my 03 4.7 Dakota, and it has a 3.53 rear end. With 4WD your drive train is already a bit tougher and geared lower than that.

JCW,
Really? You actually would have tried pulling a 28' AS with a tongue weight in excess of 1300lbs? Did you have the intention of towing with two wheels? Your front end is going to be off the ground. Let's not be foolish here.
You call that safe? Sorry bud. Ima call you out on this one. That's NOT acceptable, and you KNOW it.

Please do not put misleading statements on here lending others to believe that the vehicle you describe is safe to use on a 28' trailer with a tongue weight greater than 1300lbs. You're obviously trolling, and try to stir the pot.

Safety, first & foremost. Your statement is 101% NOT safe.
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Old 04-17-2015, 03:56 PM   #17
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I started with a 1/2 ton Chevrolet with 327 and our first 23' Airstream. OK for flatland of KS but go in the low hills around Rapid City and the Chevy said "go ahead west without me, I'm staying here". Now have an F250 with 6.7 diesel and have uptraded to a 2' FB AS. Short answer for me was have enough truck that the trailer is never tempted to "bully" it. The F250 fills that bill. Engine is optional but the 6.7 hauls over Colorados highest mountain passes at highway speeds. With the ol' Chevy, love it as I did, would have had to change zip codes by now.
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Old 04-17-2015, 03:57 PM   #18
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"Paid for is always good. I would try towing it with the Sequioa, but that is some serious tongue weight. Maybe you can reduce tongue weight by having less batteries or relocating the batteries. Good weight distribution will help, but I don't know if weight distribution will transfer all that weight."

I've already towed with it a couple times now. I've taken it about 500 miles down to Grayton Beach once and down through the MS Delta to Belzoni (hometown) a couple of weekends ago. It pulls fairly well. The trip to Grayton was good but going up and down the hills on 78 and 45 on the eastern side of Mississippi gave it a good little workout.

Oddly enough, the trip through the Delta was tougher. We were going into 30mph winds all the way from Memphis to Leland on 61 and it started to act a little odd right as we turned onto 82. That game me a good reason to stop and let the kids visit the Jim Henson museum there in Leland for a bit while I gave her a rest before continuing. The drive back without the headwind was uneventful.

Stopping leaves a bit to be desired. And I worry a little about going up or coming down any long grades since there just isn't that type of road to test it out on around here. I'm going to look into the possibility of beefing up the brakes and maybe adding a trans temp gauge if I keep her. As far as handling goes, it drives straight and true.

The more I think about going to a 3/4 the more I'm hesitant about it from the perspective of vehicle size. I know I'm a little against the norm here but I'd rather tow with the shortest possible wheelbase that still feels safe. And it's been nice being able to squeeze the trailer into spaces with the shorter wheelbase of the Sequoia. (I watched several longer wheel base trucks try over and over to squeeze their trailers into spaces that I easily managed on the Grayton trip.)

I'm hoping this weekend to see what I can do about reducing the tongue weight. I've already reduced it 100# by moving the two euro recliners from the front to right over the front axle. The previous owner had JC take out the front sofa and added the recliners and some nice storage extended from the kitchen. That storage must way a ton, because it appears my tongue weight is really heavy compared to others. (Again, I am including the weight of the Hensley there, is that correct?) Removing two more of the batteries should reduce it by another 100# and get me to 1140#, which isn't great but seems to be a lot better.

I like the idea of looking at the Tundra. And my dream vehicle is a Land Cruiser, which seems like it would be a decent fit as well if I could find a well-used one with the 5.7.
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Old 04-17-2015, 05:04 PM   #19
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The hitch weight is really interesting. You are actually in the range of my 30' Slide out so I'm assuming those batteries are the culprit. One of the things I found out was that my GM factory receiver which was part of the tow package was only rated for 1000 lb. I replaced that receiver with new receiver rated at 1,400 lbs. If you truly are going to tow with that hitch weight, be sure to check the rating of the receiver on your tow vehicle. It will be stamped on it or there will be a sticker with it's dead weight and weight distributing limitations.

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Old 04-17-2015, 06:46 PM   #20
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Well, I am still saving up for my AS. So I haven't towed with either vehicle.

But I have owned 2 Suburbans, and now drive a 5.8L V8 Tundra 4x4 crew cab.

I feel the Tundra is an easier vehicle to drive as a daily driver in city traffic. It is a lighter feel on the gas pedal, and the steering is easier too. I get 15 MPG around town.

The suburban does let you have seating for more people, and having that third seat can be nice for long road trips. (one kid per seat).

If you have any potential for bringing a dog along, get the suburban. If not, I think you would be happy with either.
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