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Old 04-29-2015, 09:03 AM   #71
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Originally Posted by gmw photos View Post
...And in the end, most of us end up with well equipped, comfortable, capable pickup trucks, and generally admit, that is what works the best. If you are young, and or new to this, your learning curve may be similar.
A fair statement indeed; thanks GMW.

A truck doesn't suit my needs at the moment so I tow with something else that does. Because it's not a truck, though, doesn't mean that it is any less suitable, or safe, to tow an Airstream. How do I know? Professional towing expertise at the start and a reasonable number of trouble-free miles actually towing since. That my choice doesn't tally with the perceived wisdom of others is immaterial.
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Old 04-29-2015, 05:54 PM   #72
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I ain't mad at ya.
Tow with whatever you wish.
Git out there and go campin'.


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Old 04-29-2015, 08:02 PM   #73
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Originally Posted by carl2591 View Post
WOW that sounded like FUN.. or not. Bet it took a while to get the seat out the butt after that deal.



What is your TV and more important what hitch you using.



glad it all worked out but I am sure that was one experience you would not like to repeat.



ps how did the wheel come off. amazing

Upon inspection of the hub, it was evident that three of the six studs in that hub were broken sometime during the previous ownership. Hitting so many horrible and unavoidable potholes on I-65 must have strained the remaining studs beyond what they could handle. Obviously, the system is designed with six studs for a reason. We replaced the other side hub and studs at the same time we had the damaged side replaced.

We were able to compete our trip after the great folks at Victory repair in Birmingham AL got us back on the road again. We had a mismatched steel wheel and lots of duct tape on the AS, but the show must go on! We're now waiting for Jackson Center to complete repairs on the significant damage done to the trailer so we can hit the road again. Maybe I shouldn't use the word "hit"...!

The setup is Eaz-lift Elite hitch with two Husky dual brake pad sway controllers. The system was installed and dialed in by CanAm on my Lexus RX350.


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Old 04-29-2015, 09:42 PM   #74
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This was a pretty amusing thread. For those of us who actually drove cars in the 60s and have intact memories:
1) The difference between a 60's car and a 60's pickup was, literally, skin deep. Both were built using body-on-frame construction, both used crude suspensions and both had "say your prayers" drum brakes that were good for one hard stop from speed and then needed to be cooled off for a while in order to be capable of a repeat performance. Usually cars were available with more powerful engines. "Half ton" pickups could carry a 1/2 ton of stuff in the bed and 3 humans in the cab if they were very friendly and not to big. No double row crew cabs or extended cabs. A bench seat covered in plastic, no sound deadening and a stiff ride. Only a masochist would take a family vacation in one of those, pulling a trailer, especially when a 3-row station wagon was more comfortable and equally capable.
I was also amused at the reference to Honda brakes, which are notoriously under-spec'ed and are prone to fade. While a short stopping distance is nice, the brakes are not the only factor. The effectiveness of the tire tread and road surface are very important. But, in the car vs. truck contest, the real issue is the brakes' ability to dissipate a lot of heat, like what happens when you're descending a long grade. The trailer brakes will not supply all of the stopping power. The combined swept area of truck brakes (basically the diameter of the brake discs) exceeds that of all but performance cars and performance SUVs like the Cayenne. That's what's going to keep you under control on a long mountain downgrade. I shudder at the thought of asking my Honda Pilot (or its near twin, the Odyssey) to do that for a 6,000 pound Airstream.
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Old 04-30-2015, 12:53 AM   #75
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Also, I can't imagine asking my 1999 Nissan Pathfinder or 2014 Toyota Avalon to tow my Classic 30, but my Tundra does an excellent job. Maybe I could heavily modify one of the other vehicles to do it, but the truck required only the installation of a trailer brake controller, which it was pre-wired for-
I can't rely on that junky old Pathfinder to pull itself with only me in it- it has been hands down the worst car I've ever had- I would never tow anything more than a 5 x 10 utility trailer with it.
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Old 04-30-2015, 01:16 AM   #76
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This was a pretty amusing thread. For those of us who actually drove cars in the 60s and have intact memories:
1) The difference between a 60's car and a 60's pickup was, literally, skin deep. Both were built using body-on-frame construction, both used crude suspensions and both had "say your prayers" drum brakes that were good for one hard stop from speed and then needed to be cooled off for a while in order to be capable of a repeat performance. Usually cars were available with more powerful engines. "Half ton" pickups could carry a 1/2 ton of stuff in the bed and 3 humans in the cab if they were very friendly and not to big. No double row crew cabs or extended cabs. A bench seat covered in plastic, no sound deadening and a stiff ride. Only a masochist would take a family vacation in one of those, pulling a trailer, especially when a 3-row station wagon was more comfortable and equally capable.
I was also amused at the reference to Honda brakes, which are notoriously under-spec'ed and are prone to fade. While a short stopping distance is nice, the brakes are not the only factor. The effectiveness of the tire tread and road surface are very important. But, in the car vs. truck contest, the real issue is the brakes' ability to dissipate a lot of heat, like what happens when you're descending a long grade. The trailer brakes will not supply all of the stopping power. The combined swept area of truck brakes (basically the diameter of the brake discs) exceeds that of all but performance cars and performance SUVs like the Cayenne. That's what's going to keep you under control on a long mountain downgrade. I shudder at the thought of asking my Honda Pilot (or its near twin, the Odyssey) to do that for a 6,000 pound Airstream.

Can't wait for 2), 3), and 4)!!! Let's keep the amusement coming!


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Old 05-08-2015, 06:21 PM   #77
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A comment on the stopping distance physics: Yes, mass cancels out for just the car alone so the simplest stopping distance formula is a function of velocity and friction. But when you add a trailer with no brakes that is no longer true. Just playing around with the numbers, both a 7500 lb TV and a 3000 lb TV should stop from 65 mph in about 202 feet (coefficient of friction = .7). Add a 7000 lb trailer with 10% tongue weight and the numbers become 355 ft for the heavy rig and 545 for the light rig. And if the TV will carry it higher tongue weight percentages reduce the calculated stopping distance and probably the real world stopping distance also.
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Old 05-09-2015, 04:07 PM   #78
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Originally Posted by Bill M. View Post
A comment on the stopping distance physics: Yes, mass cancels out for just the car alone so the simplest stopping distance formula is a function of velocity and friction. But when you add a trailer with no brakes that is no longer true. Just playing around with the numbers, both a 7500 lb TV and a 3000 lb TV should stop from 65 mph in about 202 feet (coefficient of friction = .7). Add a 7000 lb trailer with 10% tongue weight and the numbers become 355 ft for the heavy rig and 545 for the light rig. And if the TV will carry it higher tongue weight percentages reduce the calculated stopping distance and probably the real world stopping distance also.
There are TT without brakes?
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Old 05-09-2015, 07:47 PM   #79
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Even with all things perfectly set up and ideal conditions a 14,400# rig takes more real estate to stop than a car alone. You have to allow greater following distance even with the best trailer brakes, best trailer brake controller, and biggest, best tow vehicle brakes.
It will not stop on a dime. It will not stop like a 3,000# sports car.


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Old 05-14-2015, 02:00 PM   #80
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Thank all of you for the great input you gave me.

After looking at everything and thinking hard about it I decided to go with a 3/4 suburban. I found a nice deal on a loaded 2007 model with 133k miles on it that's not too far from me and hope to pick it up tomorrow.

It's a one owner 4x4 with the 4.10 rear end. Owner has never towed anything with it nor taken it off road and put it in 4wd. I know the gas mileage will be terrible, but we should be able to pile everything we want into it with room to spare. I'm just keeping my fingers crossed that it has another solid 100k+ miles left on it

Again, thank all of you for your thoughts and help.

Jami
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Old 05-14-2015, 05:37 PM   #81
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Excellent tow vehicle.
You've made a good choice.


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Old 05-17-2015, 04:59 PM   #82
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Well, I picked up the truck Friday and am super pleased with it. It definitely feels like a heavier duty truck, and I mean that in a good way. And I was pleasantly surprised that during the 370 mile interstate ride home I averaged 14.5 mpg driving between 70-75 mph. While that's not great, it's pretty comparable to my old ride and better than I expected.
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