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Old 03-06-2008, 07:53 AM   #29
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Somewhereinthewoodsof , Maine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Breiz
Oh and when we'd be in 3rd going uphill we'd smell a bit of coolant. Is that a bad sign? Engine temp gauge never got too hot.

Still not sure what engine is in my burb. I looked all through the engine compartment and didn't see it written anywhere. The only thing I saw at all relative could be the air filter housing has a sticker on it that said 7.4 liter.
You've got your answer, just about. Ask google "7.4 liter in cubic inches" and it comes back with "7.4 liter = 451.575706 cubic inches"

You can't always take this direct number and apply it, ther'es no Chevy 451, AFAIK for this model, so you can assume that you have a 454, but the best way to check is to decode your VIN.

.:autobaza.pl:. VIN checker, Oferty - ogłoszenia, Kredyty samochodowe, Słownik has a VIN decoder, but I'm not sure how well it works. There are other sites that can help you decode your VIN as well.

You do have a better idea now though, knowing it's a 7.3L.

I'd check with your mechanic on the coolant smell and also would look for puddles. There are also many more people here with much more experience than I on this topic who, I am sure, will chime in.

Congrats on your new trailer!
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Old 03-07-2008, 07:49 PM   #30
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My parents towed their '78 Silver Streak (8,000-lb GVW) with a 1987 3/4T 454 Suburban (3.54 gears as I recall; had tow package and ENGINE oil cooler); first year for EFI (throttle-body, not port injected) and ran it out to about 190,000 miles. Engine was low on power from factory, but it was an economical vehicle to own and operate. Almost as good as the 1976 Cadillac which preceded it.

The cooling system is, for all US vehicles, the one most neglected. At fourteen years of age I would -- were it mine -- replace the radiator, all coolant hoses & fasteners as well as the thermostat and water pump (Edelbrock makes a nice HD pump; look also for Robertshaw HD thermostats).

I'd start the process by having a machine style backflush and use de-ionized water with a Prestone radiator cleaner product and follow directions. Once done, then begin the process of replacing parts by removing the engine block plugs and clean out any gunk in the lower coolant casing. Use brass (marine style) replacement plugs.

(If the heater core is easily accessible, I'd do it also.)

This is one system you do NOT want to have to keep fixing. Do it once, do it right.

I agree about adding a filter to the trans return line as well as a secondary cooler (stacked plate design) on same. (Were it mine, I'd also add a small cooler and MAGNEFINE filter to the power steering return line: backing a trailer into a tight spot can overheat both trans and p/steering as there is little to no airflow.)

Search out vacuum leaks and look to replace as much hose under the hood as possible. Much of this is quite easy when done in the parking lot of the auto parts store (NAPA). So doing will eliminate many hard-to-trace problems.

Have the brake system flushed, the brake hoses replaced and the emergency/parking brake adjusted out. Have those rear drums adjusted 3-4 times yearly.

New battery cables as well. New high tension wires (spark plug wires) are also called for.

Dry rot under the hood is a big enemy and must be addressed in a holistic manner. Better to do too much than too little.

Also, replace ALL exterior lamps (bulbs).

Good luck
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1990 35' Silver Streak Sterling; 9k GVWR.
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Old 03-07-2008, 08:09 PM   #31
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Also, a cleaning of the underside (chassis) with some Castrol Super Clean and next day an inspection of boots, bushings and other areas (rust) that MAY warrant attention. I know I would replace the anti-sway bar bushings (anti-roll is the correct term) as they're history by now, and upgrade them to polygraphite (Energy Suspension). I'd also replace the shocks. Pay careful attention to the springs, see if you can't shine a light (may need to use mirror) on coil spring bushings, and a careful check of the rear leaf springs.

On something that old I'd be replacing the throttle-body mounting gasket, and looking to clean that item well; also, check any sensors attached to it, they're usually not hard to replace.

U-joints are another concern. Usually best off just replacing them.

An old, experienced man is your best bet for alignment and ball joint condition.

I assume you are already overhauling the brake system (part of which noted above); I'd overhaul the calipers and the rear drum hardware if any rust is noted (has the truck been sitting up? The mileage is rather low if at 140,000 or less for that age vehicle).

Again, best of luck. Find a nice sway control hitch and check some of the many threads on setting it up correctly. Fewer than 20% of all tow vehicles on the road (of any sort) are correctly set up. The directions can be found here, this is an excellent forum to get that information. You'll enjoy the problem-solving as it will give you confidence in your rig.
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1990 35' Silver Streak Sterling; 9k GVWR.
2004 DODGE Cummins 305/555; 6-manual; 9k GVWR.
Hensley Arrow. 9-cpm solo, 15-cpm towing
Sold: Silver Streak Model 3411
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Old 03-25-2011, 02:43 PM   #32
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1989 29' Excella
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34 ft Excella 1000 with 1999 Diesel Suburban 2500 ?

From the preceding posts it looks like this can be done.

However I believe the tongue weight on the AS is 820 lb's. Does anyone know if my Burb can handle this ?
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Old 03-25-2011, 03:35 PM   #33
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tarsands,

Howdy and welcome to Airforums.com! You know you have found the best place for top-flight advice, and until that comes along, let me say this: if a 'Burb 2500 WON'T tow your 34-footer, I don't know what will, short of a Ford 550, or summink gargantuan.

Of course, folks will ask what you have for rear gears...?
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Old 03-25-2011, 04:31 PM   #34
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1989 29' Excella
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Thanks, good to be here :

She's got 3.73 , should I look at 4.10 ?
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Old 03-25-2011, 05:30 PM   #35
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I have pulled ALL sizes with our 99 Sub.... 3/4 ......454. NEVER a problem!.....even had extra power I did not need!
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Old 03-25-2011, 05:52 PM   #36
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I have a newer burb and also a 1997 K2500 small block gas and tow with both.

You'll be fine. Check the rating of the hitch itself, many from that era are wimpy. Draw-Tite makes one rated for 10,000 gross and 1,000 on the tongue.
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Old 03-29-2011, 11:38 PM   #37
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Thanks for your advice. It seems that there is little debate on these forums that I'll need one of those fancy hitch setups ?

For now I'm only planning one 500 k drive to a permanent site.
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Old 05-07-2011, 07:11 PM   #38
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This combo worked well
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