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overlander63 · 06-27-2007, 03:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SilverToy

ASS/UME...... and what do you get?

Comment about the fuel gauge registering incorrectly, prior to pump failure, was interesting, as my gauge reads full all the time, then drops slowly but never to less than 1/2, even with only 2 or 3 gallons on board.... as per pump receipts compared to tank specs. Is this the 'indicator' you referenced about a possible pump failure coming? There are NO other indicators (stumbling, etc....) that the vehicle exhibits.

They mentioned a 'brake flush' being needed - every 80-100K. Something about brake fluid being 'hydro-static' (attracting water thru the seals & hoses) What say you? My owners manual/ maintenance log is with the car.... Seems so logical, but I'll have their bu**s if its snakeoil....

Thanks for the help and replies so far.....

Axel
SilverToy

Fuel gauge reading incorrectly is usually only an indication of a bad sending unit, you can get a new one with a pump. It doesn't mean the pump is going bad. "Stumbling" could be seen as loping while idling, or the occasional sputter while driving.
Here in humid Florida, we recommend flushing the brake fluid every 3 years due to the higher moisture in the air. Brake fluid does attract water, as it has an alcohol base. The second reason for flushing is to get rid of the tiny particles of rubber and metal suspended in the fluid. If there is enough of this stuff floating around in the system, it can cause other issues.

SilverToy · 06-27-2007, 04:45 PM

Well,

As always, the info offered here is terrific, and a great help in knowing that my vehicle is in good hands. Always thought they were good folks, doing the right things for the right reasons (in addition to getting paid) and glad to see that proven out. Thanks.

Brakes are done. Starting issue/ fusable link done. Test drive - CRAP. Pulling all over the place. Back on the rack. Right tie rod bent about 1/2 inch - Toe in. Now it needs a new tie rod, alignment... and the $'s keep on rollin along...

Thinking back, 2 drivers in the Flatbed. ?? One guy is in training. Guess which corner (He did 1 of 4) he hooked up!? Called the tow company right away. Also called USAA, who arranged the tow. They took a damage claim.... week to 10 days for an answer....

Outta the frying pan and into the fire..... If it weren't for bad luck I'd have no luck at all....

Sigh.

Axel
SilverToy

HOG-I · 06-27-2007, 05:08 PM

2001 Denali needed new fuel pump at 125k. It did give us warning that it was failing. During cold startup the RPM would drop and required pumping the gas pedal until warm. Replaced at a non GM shop but it still HURT!

overlander63 · 06-27-2007, 05:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SilverToy

Brakes are done. Starting issue/ fusable link done. Test drive - CRAP. Pulling all over the place. Back on the rack. Right tie rod bent about 1/2 inch - Toe in. Now it needs a new tie rod, alignment... and the $'s keep on rollin along...

Thinking back, 2 drivers in the Flatbed. ?? One guy is in training. Guess which corner (He did 1 of 4) he hooked up!? Called the tow company right away. Also called USAA, who arranged the tow. They took a damage claim.... week to 10 days for an answer....

Sigh.

Axel
SilverToy

Hooking to the tie rod is a typical newbie wrecker drive mistake. I never made that particular mistake when I was learning, but I did tear the outer cv boot on a 1967 Toronado, the first front wheel drive car I had seen.

Poprivet · 06-27-2007, 05:20 PM

The older cars and truck with gutsy engines has trouble with vaporlock when using the newer fuels. That problem was fixed by installing an external electric fuel pump back at the tank. Now the new vehicles put the pumps in the tank as noted but you can still get these external pumps that perform well. Would this be a resonable solution?

overlander63 · 06-27-2007, 05:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by David Alan

The older cars and truck with gutsy engines has trouble with vaporlock when using the newer fuels. That problem was fixed by installing an external electric fuel pump back at the tank. Now the new vehicles put the pumps in the tank as noted but you can still get these external pumps that perform well. Would this be a resonable solution?

My truck has both, one in each tank, and one mounted on the frame rail. The tank mounted ones are low pressure, the frame mounted on is high pressure.

Excella CM · 06-27-2007, 06:03 PM

Isn't that why it's called a TIE rod?

rmpray · 06-27-2007, 07:40 PM

Volvo used to have a low pressure pump in the tank and the high pressure pump to feed the injectors was under the car. You removed a small access plate to replace the low pressure and you could reach the high pressure underneath...but did not have to remove the fuel tank for either! Kinda like they were thinking of ease of servicing. I wonder where it is for my f350 duel tank diesel?

overlander63 · 06-27-2007, 07:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rmpray

I wonder where it is for my f350 duel tank diesel?

Right front of engine, near lower radiator hose. It is a mechanical pump.

Goin camping · 06-27-2007, 11:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TIMEMACHINE

Uwe,

I thought it was Goin camping who drove a tank?????

John

Its not a tank. It just has lots of armor.

SilverToy · 06-28-2007, 12:52 AM

Hello all -

Back to report the carnage...

No start diagnosis & repair.... $80+
Brake rotor resurface, system flush.... $240+
Tie rod (both ends) plus install.... $270
Alignment.... $80+

The da*n tow was "free" but cost me nearly $350 bucks.... Filed with USAA on a damage during tow incident.... we'll see what happens - 7 to 10 days to hear what they'll do...

Anyone have ANY experience with an incident like this?? What happened? What can I expect?? I figure they'll probably try to baffalo me.

Tech said that rod was bent in the exact position where the chain marks showed from the tie down.... Of course they don't have a digital camera laying around... and I wasn't there - sigh.

Well, that's life I guess.

Anyone else have any thoughts on the 'over amperage' comment that fried the fuse that killed the ECM that killed the truck that swallowed the fly.... oops, sorry - just seeing if anyone read this far...

Thanks again to everyone for the input!

Axel
SilverToy

overlander63 · 06-28-2007, 07:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SilverToy

Anyone else have any thoughts on the 'over amperage' comment that fried the fuse that killed the ECM that killed the truck that swallowed the fly.... oops, sorry - just seeing if anyone read this far...

Thanks again to everyone for the input!

Axel
SilverToy

What all was protected by that fuse? A/C compressor? Fan? ECM? Lights? Cigar lighter?
Also, you can verify the damage to the tie rod was after your truck quit running. If it had been driven that way, there would have been massive tire wear, and I am sure yours has none. Save you receipts, and get the name of the tech that said he saw the marks from the J hook on the tie rod end, in case the towing company balks at the bill. I know if you have lots of documentation, and stick to your guns, you will probably get reimbursed for the damage. The tow company will take the cost of repairs out of the wrecker driver's pay.

Goin camping · 06-28-2007, 08:52 AM

Get the old tie rod back from the shop. Call it Exhibit A.

SilverToy · 06-28-2007, 12:52 PM

Have Exhibit A....!!!!! First thing I picked up....

No there is certainly NO tire wear.... and I did talk to the driver (not the trainee) and he 'conceeded' that he did not double check the trainee's work on the RF corner....

Got a call first thing, from the Tow Co. office asking about the vehicle, if it was something they could look at before it got fixed (Nope - fixed). They did sound a bit more hopeful after that.... til I mentioned that I had the tie-rod and the techs info... They want to set up a time for a 'manager' to look at the piece... Glad to oblige.

I will say that everyone (USAA, Tow Co.) seems to be very attentive to this 'problem' ... and I am hopeful that they will conceed that the damage was done by them. I do know that they shouldn't take it from the driver, but they should deduct it from the trainee! Nothing "learns" you quicker, and more permanently!! than having to fix/ pay for your mistake(s)....

All in all, since the tie rod was over 1/2 of the bill, I can say that I will be happy if I get any of the $'s back....

About the fuse, all I know at this point is that it was the ECM one... Not sure if it is a regular fuse, a fuseable link or what.... will check the Haynes manual at lunch in about 3 minutes. Will report back after more info is available. Still, there was nothing I would consider 'excessive' running in the vehicle.... Then again, it did blow... so who knows?

Axel
SilverToy

SilverToy · 06-30-2007, 12:56 AM

Well, here is the latest...

Tow company manager called today.... said he wants to look at the Tie-rod before it gets fixed so he can determine the cause of the bend....

Nope, it's fixed and back in service....

Well, then there really is no way to determine fault...

Wrong, bucko! I have the Tie-rod... I talked to the driver.... I have the Tech and his opinion ready when and if needed... Heck I even have the shop owner - he looked at it before dis-assembly, and he is 'certain' that the damage was from the tow.... There is no history of ANY damage to the truck, there is NO tire wear...

This is THEIR (tow company) responsibility.

Now just gotta go through the details of getting the I's dotted and T's crossed... and the check to clear...

Thanks again to EVERYONE that inputted on this thread. I appreciate your time and effort!

Axel
SilverToy