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Old 10-23-2015, 02:21 PM   #15
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Prior to purchasing my 2013 Expedition, I contacted Andy Thompson at CanAm RV and he recommeded going with the larger 20" tires rather than the 18" that I had run on my previous 2008 Expedition. That was good enough for me but I like both the look and the handling of the larger tire as well. I'd spend the money on the tires, not downsizing to 18" tires AND rims.
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Old 10-23-2015, 02:56 PM   #16
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On our '11 and '14 F150's we ended up swapping out the stock 20" Pirelli tire for a set of 285/55 20 Cooper Discoverer A/T3's, and have been very happy with the change.

Tom
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Old 10-23-2015, 03:05 PM   #17
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Maybe the solution is to buy a TV that has the load and towing capacity to haul the TT you want to tow and you need togo the "bling" of the large diameter wheels.

Larger wheels with lower aspect ratio will lower the actual lad capacity. I do hope that if you are considering changing tire size you are using load capacity as a controlling dnumber and not just the rim diameter.
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Old 10-23-2015, 03:37 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Tireman9 View Post
Maybe the solution is to buy a TV that has the load and towing capacity to haul the TT you want to tow and you need togo the "bling" of the large diameter wheels.

Larger wheels with lower aspect ratio will lower the actual lad capacity. I do hope that if you are considering changing tire size you are using load capacity as a controlling dnumber and not just the rim diameter.
Ummm, pretty sure the TV capacity (with HD tow package) is well enough equipped at 15,000 GCWR and 8,900 max trailer weight to handle my trailer! And thank gawd it came with the BLING wheels - cause that really is my focus.

I'm talking improving my tires!

Laura
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Old 10-23-2015, 03:44 PM   #19
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Found this great comparison tool. Looks like the 18" wheels I keep finding might interfere with the brake pads...

Posting this anyway because the tool is cool.

Rim & Tire Size Calculator. Custom Offsets - Wheel-Size.com

Laura
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Old 10-23-2015, 03:46 PM   #20
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Ok so I must be missing something. You have a HD towing package and the numbers indicate you have the capacity needed as I understand it. So why do you want or feel the need to go from LR-D to LR-E?

All that LR-E gives you is an increase in load capacity when you increase the tire inflation from 65 to 80 psi.
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Old 10-23-2015, 04:21 PM   #21
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Ok so I must be missing something. You have a HD towing package and the numbers indicate you have the capacity needed as I understand it. So why do you want or feel the need to go from LR-D to LR-E?

All that LR-E gives you is an increase in load capacity when you increase the tire inflation from 65 to 80 psi.
Right now I do not have load range D, I have a passenger tire. I am looking for suggestions to improve the tires and believe the load range E, with a 10 ply stiffer sidewall is the ultimate!

You see, I'm definitely not about the BLING but more about the safety.

Laura
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Old 10-23-2015, 04:42 PM   #22
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Right now I do not have load range D, I have a passenger tire. I am looking for suggestions to improve the tires and believe the load range E, with a 10 ply stiffer sidewall is the ultimate!

You see, I'm definitely not about the BLING but more about the safety.

Laura
Ok, now that we have a better understanding of your thoughts some might be able to offer suggestions.

It is important to understand that your current tires have one or two ply in the sidewall. You can read the tire sidewall to see the number in your tires.

A switch to Passenger XL type will in all probability give you an increase in load capacity that comes with increasing inflation from 36 to maybe 51 or whatever the max inflation is for your size in Passenger Xl.

A move to LT will be problematic as there simply aren't as many 20" LT type tires made in different sizes in LR-E. and those that are will probably be either LR-C or LR-D.

If you find 20" LT tires I think you will soon discover that their sidewalls contain two or at most three ply sidewall.

I am afraid you are confusing the old "Ply rating" with the actual number of ply used in modern tires. One of the main reason tires were changed from Ply to Load range is that there have not been tires made with 6 or 8 or 10 actual sidewall ply )layers) in the sidewall for over 40 years.

DO you know the maximum size tire that were used on your make of truck ?
OD and width?

I don't see where you have identified the size, LR and inflation of your current tires. It would also help if we know the specific GAWR F & R for your vehicle, otherwise we are just guessing.
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Old 10-23-2015, 04:56 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tireman9 View Post
Maybe the solution is to buy a TV that has the load and towing capacity to haul the TT you want to tow and you need togo the "bling" of the large diameter wheels.

Larger wheels with lower aspect ratio will lower the actual lad capacity. I do hope that if you are considering changing tire size you are using load capacity as a controlling dnumber and not just the rim diameter.

That is a great idea, but I bought the pickup before the trailer and was ignorant of such things.


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Old 10-23-2015, 05:16 PM   #24
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Ok, now that we have a better understanding of your thoughts some might be able to offer suggestions.

It is important to understand that your current tires have one or two ply in the sidewall. You can read the tire sidewall to see the number in your tires.

A switch to Passenger XL type will in all probability give you an increase in load capacity that comes with increasing inflation from 36 to maybe 51 or whatever the max inflation is for your size in Passenger Xl.

A move to LT will be problematic as there simply aren't as many 20" LT type tires made in different sizes in LR-E. and those that are will probably be either LR-C or LR-D.

If you find 20" LT tires I think you will soon discover that their sidewalls contain two or at most three ply sidewall.

I am afraid you are confusing the old "Ply rating" with the actual number of ply used in modern tires. One of the main reason tires were changed from Ply to Load range is that there have not been tires made with 6 or 8 or 10 actual sidewall ply )layers) in the sidewall for over 40 years.

DO you know the maximum size tire that were used on your make of truck ?
OD and width?

I don't see where you have identified the size, LR and inflation of your current tires. It would also help if we know the specific GAWR F & R for your vehicle, otherwise we are just guessing.
My current tires are almost bald - and were on the truck when I purchased 1-wk before moving cross country. Now that things have settled down, I'm ready to address the tire issue. The current tires are Wranglers (I think) and the size is P275/55R20.

Per the Ford guide, the OEM wheels are 9Jx20 ET 30 and associated tire is 275/65R20. I don't know how to verify the max size ever used...

Since purchasing this vehicle, I have not made it to the scales to get accurate weights on the TV: 2010 Ford Expedition Limited, 4wd. When I head home, I can check the label on the door though....

I'm still under the impression that a LR-E has stiffer sidewalls than and LR-D, or an XL passenger tire.

Laura
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Old 10-23-2015, 05:20 PM   #25
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Mine were 275/60/R20 and I too bumped up to 275/65R20 on my truck. Running Toyo Open Country AT/II
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Old 10-23-2015, 08:00 PM   #26
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Want E-rated 20" tires for 2010 Expedition

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tireman9 View Post
Ok so I must be missing something. You have a HD towing package and the numbers indicate you have the capacity needed as I understand it. So why do you want or feel the need to go from LR-D to LR-E?

All that LR-E gives you is an increase in load capacity when you increase the tire inflation from 65 to 80 psi.

Agreed. And quit guessing.

Put the combined rig on a scale. Loaded for a long trip; full fresh water & propane. Approximate weights if necessary with bags of sand, etcetera).

With WD set to restore Steer Axle weights to the solo value, you'll be close enough. Weigh by each wheel position. This will be a maximum set of values (you can also back off to 50% FALR to see Rear Axle at highest). Not by axle, but by each wheel.

I pull a tandem axle 35' with a far higher TW and still don't use all the capacity of E-rated tires on a one ton.

That trailer isn't so heavy. E-range is likely not called for. I believe in a reserve margin, but that also has to do with high temps, travel speed, etc.

Get good answers. But first ask the right questions. Start with setting WD to best value.

A stiffer tire isn't better. Look to best shock absorbers and (vehicle dependent) polyurethane bushings on antiroll bars, etc.
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Old 10-23-2015, 08:05 PM   #27
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Stopped at the tire shop on my way home. Came out with three options (there were more, but I had to narrow it down)...
265/60R20 cooper discoverer E range
265/60R20 nitto grappler E range
285/55R20 bfg all terrain D range

What to do? Cooper and BFG in stock and for safety sake, I need tires last week. Prices comparable. And I hate to admit that other than my cross country move, I haven't towed the Silver Olive in a few years. But I keep hoping I'll get back to regular trips!

And really, no door sticker with tire info and GAWR listings - WTH?

Laura
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Old 10-23-2015, 08:11 PM   #28
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Agreed. And quit guessing.

Put the combined rig on a scale. Loaded for a long trip; full fresh water & propane. Approximate weights if necessary with bags of sand, etcetera).

With WD set to restore Steer Axle weights to the solo value, you'll be close enough. Weigh by each wheel position. This will be a maximum set of values (you can also back off to 50% FALR to see Rear Axle at highest). Not by axle, but by each wheel.

I pull a tandem axle 35' with a far higher TW and still don't use all the capacity of E-rated tires on a one ton.

That trailer isn't so heavy. E-range is likely not called for. I believe in a reserve margin, but that also has to do with high temps, travel speed, etc.

Get good answers. But first ask the right questions. Start with setting WD to best value.

A stiffer tire isn't better. Look to best shock absorbers and (vehicle dependent) polyurethane bushings on antiroll bars, etc.
I did that with my Yukon and posted the results couple years ago on this forum. I'm not dismissing it, but I don't have the luxury of doing that right now. Since two of my tires are bald and unsafe, I need to make a decision without the definitive numbers.

Cheers
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