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Old 08-08-2003, 10:04 AM   #29
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Adding drawer slides, part 2

Prying off the drawer fascia wasn't too hard, but you need to be careful. It's attached by the drawer pull, about 15 little staples, and a bit of glue. In my case, the glue had never really bonded so it didn't present a problem. I carefully worked a flat screwdriver into one edge and gradually pried the fascia off the staples. Go slow or you'll break the fascia.

This picture shows the new drawer box that I built, with the old fascia attached, and the drawer slide. Right now the only things holding the fascia on are the two screws which mount the handle. The fascia is so thin (about 1/4") that I am hesitant to risk putting a screw into it from the back, for risk of tearing out or poking through. I should glue it but I want the option of re-using the fascia again should I decide to change the drawer once more.

I also raised the position of the fascia by about 1/2" to allow opening the drawer without catching on rugs or the new laminate floor I plan to install later.

-- RL
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Old 08-08-2003, 10:17 AM   #30
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You probably could have made the drawerfront as well just by staining some high quality plywood of the same thickness. The end of the kitchen counter on my trailer was replaced by the previous owner, and you can't tell it's new. Now I need to replace the piece across from it (the end of the dinette seat next to the door) which is covered in chips and filler from previous repairs. Hopefully I will do as good a job as the PO did on the other piece. I'm thinking of these things as winter projects.

Good job on the drawers. I don't think I could have cranked out drawers as fast as that. It will be nice for you to not to have to yank on them to haul them out.
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Old 08-27-2003, 11:28 AM   #31
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Laminate flooring going in!

OK, as promised, here's a picture of the new laminate flooring going into the Caravel. It's not a terribly hard job, but the innate non-square-ness of everything in the trailer makes for a lot of nit-picky little cuts.

The white stuff is foam underlayment. You just spread it, staple it down, and trim the edges with a carpet knife. Total time: about 15 minutes. After it is cut you can pry the staples back up.

Notice I am installing right over the existing vinyl floor. This will add a level of water protection for the subfloor should a major leak occur. It's also a lot less work! You can see that I'm not going into the bathroom. Our shower curtain leaks too much for a laminate floor. I'll terminate the new floor end with a little threshold.

I worked from the rear corner by the heater, forward. There's a bit of trimming in front of the fridge to allow the access panel to open, but it's an easy straight cut. Then I worked toward the door, which requires the forward (dinette) edge of the boards to be cut at an angle of about 13 degrees. You can't see that in the picture unfortunately. That funky angled dinette of the Caravel is a challenge when installing flooring.

Note that I put the flooring pretty tight to the edges. The Uniclic brand instructions suggest 2 mm gap per meter, which is not much when you're covering the floor space of a Caravel, so I basically just cut it with a sawblade's gap at the edges. The 1/4" panel sidewall of the refrigerator cabinet flexes much more than is needed to accomodate expansion of the floor anyway.

The next cut is going to be the hardest one. The corner of the curbside dinette seat is tricky. There's a short cut at 13 degrees and a long cut on the board of about 12.5 degrees. This piece is going to look like a jigsaw puzzle.

To get to this point, I've expended about 3 hours (including patching injuries and drinking cold stuff), plus $90 in materials. I figure another 2-3 hours to finish, including the quarter-round installation and threshold by the shower. I'm going to lightly glue the quarter-round so that it floats just above the floor surface, because it can't be attached to the floor and the thinness of the cabinetry in some places doesn't permit nailing.

-- RL
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Old 08-27-2003, 12:24 PM   #32
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Thumbs up

Lookin' good! Good luck on all those under-dinette cuts. Looks like a real headach to me. BTW, it looks like the previous owner laid vinyl down over the edge of the shower pan, if yours was originally like mine. This is how my floor terminates. I appreciate the little extra border to catch splashing from the shower.
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Old 08-27-2003, 12:56 PM   #33
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different showers

Interesting, Stef -- my shower is a bit different. Mine is shaped the same on the outside but you can see mine has a circular interior. The PO cut the vinyl to butt up against the pan. I think the extra edge on yours would be nice to have because there's always a puddle right there after a shower, and it would make re-flooring easier in that area.
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Old 08-27-2003, 01:26 PM   #34
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rluhr-
Mine looks just like yours. Same color and all. We just
put new flooring in last week. We ripped out the old VAT and went down to the plywood. We were able to slide out the old tiles from under the shower pan. (Quite a feat) The now flooring slid under about 2 inches and we silicone caulked it. Looks nice I must say. I'll post a pic when I get home. We took out all of the furniture, water tank, pump, etc. Huge job.



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Old 08-27-2003, 03:15 PM   #35
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Heidi and Rluhr - How interesting, I wonder why mine is different.

I just went to the picture archives
http://vintageairstream.com/archives/%2768Caravel.html
and the one one there looks like yours.

The sink top looks different too, but it's hard to tell from the angle.
Here's a pic of ours. Is your bathroom sink like this? Do you have a medicine cabinet above the sink?
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Old 08-27-2003, 08:02 PM   #36
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Stef-
The faucets for my shower are on the other side of the lav.
Up against the closet. No medicine cabinet nor does it look like one was there. Was your trailer made in California by chance?
Maybe thats why.

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Old 08-27-2003, 09:52 PM   #37
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I'll bet it was made in CA, since it was originally sold to someone in OR. That would be the logical place for it to have come from, and would make sense of the different bathrooms. You'd think they would have used the same suppliers either way.

The medicine cabinet is molded of very lightweight stiff plastic, which is getting kind of brittle and warping out of shape. Still works though, and it has a little built in light, which is handy.
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Old 08-28-2003, 09:26 AM   #38
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Bathroom cabinet

Mine is pretty much like yours Stef, but the P.O. removed the center faucet and put in a more modern single unit on the right that controls the shower with a pull-up handle. My sink is only slightly different and I have what appears to be an identical medicine cabinet.

It's really true that there are no two alike!

On mine, the lower door to the bathroom cabinet (just below the sink) seems to be delaminating along the top edge due to shower water. I will probably replace it over the winter with a solid wood door to match the living room cabinetry, and coat it with spar varnish to resist the moisture.

By the way, the laminate floor is done except for one piece which I'll put in today, and a couple of small edging strips. Next project is to rebuild the other under-bed drawer and replace some latches that aren't holding up.

I'm also going to mount a discrete little digital temperature gauge near the front wall (the outside temperature probe will go out via the white water tank dump in the floor below the dinette), and a battery meter somewhere.

If I can figure a neat way to gauge the white water tank level, I'll add that too. Last week we spent 8 nights on the road camping (mostly in Acadia Nat'l Park) and it was annoying suddenly running out of water without warning. There weren't any hookups and so running out of water meant hitching up and towing the trailer over the faucet. Since almost always boondock, gauges for everything are becoming priority items for us.

-- RL
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Old 08-28-2003, 11:59 AM   #39
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Those are great ideas, be sure to let us know how they go (you'll have to start a new thread, this one's getting big!). I wouldn't mind having some guages myself. Although we always stay in campgrounds, we've been boondocking quite a bit in tent spots or places that don't really have hookups even though they say they do (an extension cord outlet nailed to a tree 60 feet away is NOT a hookup in my book).

As for the bathroom cabinet door, the previous owners showed us a trick, they keep a medium plastic shopping bag under the sink and lay it over the top edge of that door and then shut the door. Keeps the door dry. You'd think with all that plastic AS could have made a plastic door as well. Your idea for a matching, varnished door will look good, I think!

Good job on the laminate, especially with all those angles. You inspire me! Maybe I will cover up that yellow honeycomb vinyl in mine yet!
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Old 08-28-2003, 01:10 PM   #40
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Dear Caravel Club members-
On my fresh water tank there is a guage. It consists of 2 parallel
copper pipes-one at the top level of the tank and one at the bottom. they are connected vertically with a clear plastic tube with a little red ball in it. The little ball sits at the level of the water. It is visible between the front gaucho and the credenza.
I dont have a dinette. I guess I got a water guage instead.
Its cute tho.

Heidi
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Old 08-28-2003, 02:24 PM   #41
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Cool! Better than what I do - pull up one of the dinette cushions and shine a flashlight on the end of the tank then rock back and forth hoping I can see the waterline move!
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Old 08-28-2003, 11:38 PM   #42
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Re: Bathroom cabinet

Quote:
Originally posted by rluhr
By the way, the laminate floor is done except for one piece which I'll put in today, and a couple of small edging strips.
-- RL
How much laminate did you end up using after all the triming and filling in gaps was done? Be sure to post a pic when you're done (I know it's hard to get a good pic in such a small space). I'm so temped to run out and buy some cork tiles after looking at John's posts about putting cork in his International...
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