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Old 07-04-2015, 10:54 AM   #197
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Until someone is able to produce the actual accident reports it will remain a mystery. I have tried thru my professional channels/contacts to find these reports but none seem to exist from around the time frames reported.
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Old 07-04-2015, 11:01 AM   #198
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Two Airstream rollovers in a month

It is all anecdotal.

Pretty much this entire thread sprung from an unsubstantiated assignment of causation.

In the end it is simple enough, apart from mechanical failure or another another party being involved in causation, the drivers were operating beyond their vehicles or their own capabilities.

It is a drivers duty to know his vehicles and his own limitations and take care not to exceed these capabilities.

Would these vehicles been "safe" another 5 or 10 mph had the tow vehicles been F350 Super Dutys?

Maybe.

Would the drivers had consumed this extra margin an wrecked anyway?

Lol, again maybe.

People have a tendency to both over complicate and to over simplify arguments when they desire to see things in a particular light.

Typically human.

(In this light, I will say that spending money on a Hensley or a ProPride is better money spent for the sake of vehicle capability and stability than money spent moving from half ton to 3/4 or one ton.)
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Old 07-04-2015, 11:05 AM   #199
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Red face This thread has scared me.

Tomorrow am headed from Ft Collins CO to Bozeman through the Tetons, across the Divide, etc. Pulling 26' 1975 Argosy with 2011 Tahoe with cargo box on top. No extra toys or tools or generator or bikes or tires, etc. Two lawn chairs, etc. in Tahoe. I have towed for 6 months but am an AARP female driver alone so there's no help if I get in trouble..... If I move books from the front gaucho to storage under the middle one, and ride the brakes down the grades will I be ok?
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Old 07-04-2015, 11:18 AM   #200
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I like to be able to descend grades going a speed where I only need to use brakes on occasion, and not really abruptly or heavily.

There is a sweet spot so to speak, but it is hard to put into words.

If you smell your brakes after descending a grade, then you are abusing them. No smell, no problem, (providing they are all working).

Learn this limit on smaller hills, and the big ones wont be a problem.
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Old 07-04-2015, 11:20 AM   #201
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About thirty years ago the government took the position that gentle steady brake application down long grades is the "right way" to do it, I didn't buy it then and I still don't.
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Old 07-04-2015, 11:34 AM   #202
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Riding the brakes is a term that I have considered to mean the same as excessive braking. Once your trailer brakes get too hot, their effectiveness diminishes. So my advice if your trailer rides in a level position in the flat lands, don't start moving things around. That could cause it to handle differently, and with six months under your belt, you are early in your experience level.

I'd probably research my route trying to map out the best roads with minimal grades. Also after a long down hill grade, if it's safe, pull off and let the brakes cool down. Don't sit on the side with your foot on the brake pedal. Electric brakes can build heat when you are at a dead stop. Take advantage of your transmission and gear down. That alone can help minimize the need to use you brakes. I'll pump my brakes slowing down and then releasing them which gives the brakes the ability to shed some heat between the pedal depressions. Before going down a large hill, slow down at the crest. Depending upon roads, traffic, and size of the hill, I might drop as much as 20 mph off my speed and gear down to 3rd to keep things under control. On slow speed roads that are steep, I've taken things down to 2nd gear to control the amount of breaking I need to do.

Be sure you don't create a hazard so be aware of traffic and the road conditions. You don't want to be going so slow that you stand the chance of someone rear ending you.

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Old 07-04-2015, 11:39 AM   #203
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Not so much blaming or trying to determine the cause, but how to avoid this type of accident.


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Old 07-04-2015, 11:42 AM   #204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaa4111 View Post
Tomorrow am headed from Ft Collins CO to Bozeman through the Tetons, across the Divide, etc. Pulling 26' 1975 Argosy with 2011 Tahoe with cargo box on top. No extra toys or tools or generator or bikes or tires, etc. Two lawn chairs, etc. in Tahoe. I have towed for 6 months but am an AARP female driver alone so there's no help if I get in trouble..... If I move books from the front gaucho to storage under the middle one, and ride the brakes down the grades will I be ok?
I would make sure it's not in overdrive, keep to the right, find a speed I'm comfortable with, if it goes over that speed slow down to 5 mph below that speed then take my foot off the brake. If it goes up too fast, I'd shift down to 3rd gear and do like I did before. I'm like Michael, I don't like keeping the brakes on, that builds up heat. I'd rather apply, coast, apply, coast, it gives the brakes a moment to cool off between each cycle. Downshifting helps. I think the Tahoe will be fine, just take your time, don't worry about people behind you.
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Old 07-04-2015, 11:44 AM   #205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaa4111 View Post
Tomorrow am headed from Ft Collins CO to Bozeman through the Tetons, across the Divide, etc. Pulling 26' 1975 Argosy with 2011 Tahoe with cargo box on top. No extra toys or tools or generator or bikes or tires, etc. Two lawn chairs, etc. in Tahoe. I have towed for 6 months but am an AARP female driver alone so there's no help if I get in trouble..... If I move books from the front gaucho to storage under the middle one, and ride the brakes down the grades will I be ok?
Slow and easy - use your gears. Save the brakes for when you need them. Using your brakes is okay but riding them will get them hot and ineffective.
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Old 07-04-2015, 11:50 AM   #206
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Any info I've seen says to use your brakes to slow down and then ease off, no braking continually. Put them on enough to slow your momentum and then take your foot off. Slow yourself to a reasonable speed. Down a long grade and you will have to do this more than once.
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Old 07-04-2015, 12:44 PM   #207
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Problem is that unless the electrical connections are clean between the trailer and tow vehicle, and the proper gauge wire was run back to the tow vehicle plug you may have insufficient voltage which can cause the battery to discharge.
there is already a 12ga wire as a part of most all wiring harnesses. this is in place to provide appropriate voltage to keep your TV battery up to snuff. in the past, this has also been more than adequate for keeping our 3 way refrigerators working just fine.

sounds like you have a problem with your setup but that is your problem not some general fault with a 3 way refrigerator. the fact that AS continues with these 2 way systems is just plain stupid given the advances that have happened in refrigerators and tow vehicles since the 50's.
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Old 07-04-2015, 12:49 PM   #208
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It comes down to this: Brake Bias - the combined vehicle is dynamically unstable when the majority (or only) braking is done by the tow vehicle.
i have to say, setting up my brake controllers has not been a difficult thing to accomplish. i don't feel the trailer pushing me on 8% downhills, i feel it doing its job braking in consort with my TV. if your trailer is pushing you, its your fault for not taking the time to set up your brake controller properly. pretty much has nothing to do with whatever TV you choose to use.

my trailer brakes come on a fraction after i start braking, a fraction. fine line there but not difficult to find it if you take your time and try some different setups before you leave home.
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Old 07-04-2015, 01:40 PM   #209
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Appreciate the post! Good info. Thinking of trading off our 23' Safari on a 28' Serenity. What's your opinion on a tow vehicle for a 28' AS? We have a 2011 GMC 2500HD 4X4, crew cab, 6.0 gas. Is this enough truck with some service factor built in?
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Old 07-04-2015, 01:45 PM   #210
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Sorry that's a 25' Safari Thanks, Frank (Deb's husband).
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