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Old 01-17-2018, 07:39 PM   #21
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2017 23' Flying Cloud
Bartlett , Tennessee
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It is just the 2 of us, so we don't need a lot of seats. We did not want an SUV because we carry things that give off fumes, and we don't want the fumes to get in the cab, like a generator and gasoline, and a propane grill. We settled on a SuperCab F-150 and an A.R.E. topper. We are pleased with the result. (Payload rating 1895#)
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Old 01-17-2018, 07:39 PM   #22
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This may be premature, but consider not only for what you tow now, but what you might tow in the operational lifetime of the tow vehicle you will purchase.

So many folks have bought the 19 footer because it seemed like the right size, and it was, at first, but a good number of 19' owners do tend to upgrade and if that's not your case, most of what's already been said is sound advise, but if you think you might upgrade, keep that in mind as you select your tow vehicle.
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Old 01-17-2018, 08:45 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by banderabob View Post
As many opinions as their are responses. For me, I simply don’t understand the need to buy new. A 1 to 2 year old PU or SUV with low mileage will still have some warranty., once you decide what it is you want, and it will save thousands.
The problem is getting the features you want when you buy used. But yes if a guy could buy used it would save lots of money. I know of a dealer in Wisconsin that sells lots of diesel pickups. Was there on the lot and he had 3 diesels with just 12,000 miles on them. Could save well over $15,000 on a used diesel. That’s where I’m going to go next when I purchase a pickup.
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Old 01-17-2018, 08:50 PM   #24
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I noticed that both Chevrolet and Dodge are really trying to compete with the F150 and are coming out with much beefier 1/2 tons with tow ratings of 12,000 to 12,500lbs. The new RAM is a 2019. And I believe the Chevy comes out later this year. Both are very well equipped with cameras etc.
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Old 01-18-2018, 02:36 AM   #25
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Good luck finding that available.

I get solicited about every other month by my dealer trying to buy my pickup. There are not a lot of good used pickups for sale.

If you find what you want pre-owned that can be a great value. But you may have to look a long time.
There are a ton of lease return pickups available for sale, many with 15,000-20,000 miles on them. There are fewer 3/4 and 1 ton used, but they are out there.
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Old 01-19-2018, 05:30 AM   #26
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We moved from an SUV to truck last year after towing our 25' FC for just over a year. The payload between the Denali and the F-150 was comparable. What drove me to the truck was wheelbase. Since the Denali was not an XL, it only had a 116" wheelbase. I always felt like the tail was wagging the dog when driving in wind. After some research on the internet, I found a formula (not sure if everyone subscribes to it), that with 110" wheelbase, that gives you 20' of trailer. For each additional 2" of wheelbase, you can add 1 foot of trailer. So with our 25' FC, the formula put us at a maximum of 23' for a trailer. We now have 145" wheelbase with our F-150 and feel much more comfortable with our 25'.


I also have seen recommended ratios between WB and trailer length. Specifically, the bridge length of the triller (distance from the centerline of the two axles - to the center line of the trailer ball connection) should be 1.25 times the tow vehicle wheelbase. As you may imagine, a short WB SUV in inherently unstable towing a long trailer. This is guideline for optimal stability when towing. Even with a long WB truck, insufficient tongue load, or a large polar moment of inertia on the trailer (heavy stuff loaded aft of the axles), can also create an unstable setup.

Using a high CG lifted vehicle with soft off-road tires is also an bad combination. There are. Many factors to consider, but kinematically stable geometry is a good place to start.
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Old 01-19-2018, 07:25 AM   #27
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I find this post interesting that some of the SUV's have decent payload numbers - it really surprised me. If an SUV is what your after (that has a shorter wheelbase than a truck) then you may want to hitch up with a pivot point projection type hitch. I did this back in 2008 when we started pulling with a short wheelbase SUV. It made quite a difference in stability. Later on we bought a truck due to the purchase of a larger trailer and the pure utilitarian value a truck provides.

SUV vs truck - I think it only makes sense to use a truck with a cap on the back vs using an SUV. A crew cab or extended cab truck with a cap is essentially an SUV with a large covered cargo space. The cargo space can haul the groceries, muddy dog, dirty firewood, bicycles, grill, lumber, tools, etc..... Write down on paper all the things you may want to use this vehicle for and what you want to bring along. Our family has both a truck with a cap and an SUV. Most of our longer travels are done with the truck (with or without trailer) just because of the roominess and often the truck will get equal or better fuel mileage.
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Old 01-19-2018, 10:00 PM   #28
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BMW X5 with 33 ft SOB. TV / TT solid as rock ProPride definitely helps. No white knuckles, etc. Just pure pleasure, one hand driving.




Quote:
Originally Posted by Kodiak2006 View Post
I also have seen recommended ratios between WB and trailer length. Specifically, the bridge length of the triller (distance from the centerline of the two axles - to the center line of the trailer ball connection) should be 1.25 times the tow vehicle wheelbase. As you may imagine, a short WB SUV in inherently unstable towing a long trailer. This is guideline for optimal stability when towing. Even with a long WB truck, insufficient tongue load, or a large polar moment of inertia on the trailer (heavy stuff loaded aft of the axles), can also create an unstable setup.

Using a high CG lifted vehicle with soft off-road tires is also an bad combination. There are. Many factors to consider, but kinematically stable geometry is a good place to start.
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Old 01-20-2018, 12:41 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by Kodiak2006 View Post
I also have seen recommended ratios between WB and trailer length. Specifically, the bridge length of the triller (distance from the centerline of the two axles - to the center line of the trailer ball connection) should be 1.25 times the tow vehicle wheelbase. As you may imagine, a short WB SUV in inherently unstable towing a long trailer. This is guideline for optimal stability when towing.
This rule of thumb ignores the distance from the TV rear axle centreline to the trailer ball, or rear overhang, which is the lever applied. Two equal length wheelbase tow vehicles with different rear overhangs will behave differently. Any formula that is based on TV wheelbase without considering the length of the lever arm seems of little value to me.
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Old 01-22-2018, 10:44 PM   #30
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I just picked up an absolutely loaded f150 lariat with the 157 wheelbase. Payload is 1645.
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Old 01-23-2018, 08:17 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcl View Post
This rule of thumb ignores the distance from the TV rear axle centreline to the trailer ball, or rear overhang, which is the lever applied. Two equal length wheelbase tow vehicles with different rear overhangs will behave differently. Any formula that is based on TV wheelbase without considering the length of the lever arm seems of little value to me.


Tow vehicles come in all shapes and sizes and with varying inherent stability for trailer towing. Their manufacturers rate them for specific trailer-weight limits, which should not be exceeded.

Factors that affect stability include wheelbase length, rear overhang, steering characteristics and center of gravity. The most significant factor is the proportion between wheelbase and rear overhang. A longer wheelbase makes a vehicle respond more slowly to steering input. A short rear overhang gives the trailer less mechanical advantage over the tow vehicle.

The point is a robust tow vehicle is the foundation for a safe experience. The relationship between the tow vehicle wheelbase and the trailer beam length is one of many factors.
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Old 02-11-2018, 04:44 PM   #32
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NHT Max Trailering Option on Silverado 1500

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I have of those cowboy RAM 1500's with all the stitching and it suffers from a bad case of payloaditis. I love the ruck otherwise. Really drives and rides nice. Gets decent MPG and has no issues pulling or stopping my 25' AS. But the payload issue. I've been watching the releases of the new 2019 Silverado 1500 and the 2019 RAM 1500 with interest to see how this issue will be addressed, especially in the RAM.
We just bought a Silverado 1500 with the 6.2L engine and the (NHT) Max Trailering package. It was tough to find but the search was worth it:
Payload = 1996 with a ride almost like a regular 1500. Use the Chevy Factory Dealer Search tool.
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