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Old 01-12-2015, 11:07 AM   #1
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1953 21' Flying Cloud
Atlanta , Georgia
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Transmission Cooler

Hello all,

We are planning on towing our '53 Flying Cloud with a 1995 Chevy G20 V8 cargo van. I know cargo vans are built to haul, not exactly pull so I'm making some modifications. I'm redoing the back end suspension so it operates more like a truck and the brakes.

My question is should I add a transmission cooler to a stock-ish new radiator or should I install a larger Chevy 2500 truck sized radiator?

I am ignorant, looking to see if anyone has done these mods before or has any advice.

Thanks!
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Old 01-12-2015, 02:46 PM   #2
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I have not added a cooler to your particular van, but adding a larger transmission cooler is never a bad idea, IMHO. I have one of these 45K BTU models on my F250. The only "better" addition would be a fan-cooled unit.

http://www.trucool.com/?q=products/tru-cool-max
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Old 01-12-2015, 03:01 PM   #3
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You can add an after market tranny cooler for around $100 and it is worth every penny. You should also invest in an external spin-on filter for another $40, plus a Transgo Tugger shift kit for another $100. All those items installed will double or triple the life of your transmission.
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Old 01-12-2015, 03:01 PM   #4
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I always added a power steering cooler as well. B&M Racing for trans cooler with cold fluid bypass and Derale for PS cooler.

BILSTEIN shocks, poly antiroll bar bushings, and new hoses, clamps, filters, fluids underhood. Synthetic trans, PS and rear axle fluid. Fresh brake fluid.

Synthetic blend engine oil. Change often first 20k miles.

BRIDGESTONE tires. Duravis models if Load Range E needed.

If Load Range D will work, then see Andy Thomsons recommendation on 16" BRIDGESTONE tires for Dueler line.
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Old 01-12-2015, 03:17 PM   #5
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Not much to add here but to suggest that what both Pappy & Paula said is right on. Never can go wrong with a transmission cooler if your vehicle doesn't have one, or has a small one. The only caveat is that if you live in cold climates like Buffalo NY 80% of the year, you might want to add a thermostat inline. This way the cooler only kicks on when it's at a certain temp.
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Old 01-12-2015, 05:50 PM   #6
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Thumbs up

Your trans cooler can be plumbed thru a spin-on filter with temp gauge, worked very well on our 95 Burb.

And for us in the Buffalo area...B & M offers a cooler with a cold fluid by-pass.


Bob
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Old 01-12-2015, 05:55 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
Your trans cooler can be plumbed thru a spin-on filter with temp gauge, worked very well on our 95 Burb.


Bob
That's a great idea. That'll be my next little project.

I do have a magnetic filter in the return line to the transmission. The spin-on remote filter would be a nice addition. What Fram filter is on there?
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Old 01-12-2015, 06:18 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulnGina View Post
That's a great idea. That'll be my next little project.

I do have a magnetic filter in the return line to the transmission. The spin-on remote filter would be a nice addition. What Fram filter is on there?
P & G,

Boy now your asking a lot of these old grey cells...I installed that on our 95 Burb when it was new, can't recall what # it took, common though available every where. The system is no longer available thru Tekonsha.

Bob
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Old 01-12-2015, 06:25 PM   #9
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P & G,

Boy now your asking a lot of these old grey cells...I installed that on our 95 Burb when it was new, can't recall what # it took, common though available every where. The system is no longer available thru Tekonsha.

Bob
Thanks, Bob. I'll track it down.

Where are you in the Buffalo area? I have an aunt that just moved from her home of a million years in Cheektowaga to Alden to live with my cousin. Dad's side of the family is from the Sherman area SW of Buffalo.
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Old 01-12-2015, 07:35 PM   #10
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Transmission Cooler

The thing that sucks about add on coolers is the cheap hoses and hose clamp connections. I almost always use hard lines with flared connections.

A broken hose or a blown fitting..... On hot exhaust components and poof...


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Old 01-12-2015, 07:47 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
Your trans cooler can be plumbed thru a spin-on filter with temp gauge, worked very well on our 95 Burb.

And for us in the Buffalo area...B & M offers a cooler with a cold fluid by-pass.


Bob
Worm-drive clamps should never be used on transmission lines because they don't provide enough clamping force, leading to leaks. Machine screw clamps are available and are the more suitable clamp to use.
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Old 01-12-2015, 07:55 PM   #12
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Another good addition to go with the cooler is a deep transmission pan with cooling tubes in it, and a filter extension. More available fluid will help a lot. Rolland


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Old 01-12-2015, 08:30 PM   #13
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I typically cut the steel lines and connect using steel Swagelok fittings to eliminate leaks. The same is true for the flex hose. Pick up quality hose and barbed hose fittings to join rigid and flexible lines. I have never had a problem using machine screw clamps over brass barbed fittings.
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Old 01-12-2015, 09:39 PM   #14
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Transmission Cooler

I go to NAPA for the high dollar reinforced hose and build them into harnesses following factory routing. Install and remove as a set, no snaking of lines. Use cushioned Adel clamps less than every foot. And I used Magnefine filters for both fluids.

However done it isn't cheap but worth the trouble.
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Old 01-12-2015, 09:56 PM   #15
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Even including the cost of a flare tool and a tubing bender, running steel tube is almost always cheaper than running good hoses, and is always better than the crap hose that typically comes with cooler and remote filter kits.

Plus it can look really nice if done well.


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Old 01-12-2015, 10:17 PM   #16
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Transmission Cooler

Bending metal has a learning curve. So time is also cost. I agree with you, otherwise. Ditch the cheap hose and head to NAPA for high pressure reinforced hydraulic hose. Avoid tight bends. That's about it. Lasts easily as long as metal but without fatigue or rust.
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Old 01-13-2015, 05:47 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulnGina View Post
Thanks, Bob. I'll track it down.

Where are you in the Buffalo area? I have an aunt that just moved from her home of a million years in Cheektowaga to Alden to live with my cousin. Dad's side of the family is from the Sherman area SW of Buffalo.
Hoover Beach 15mi South of Buffalo on Lake Erie.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammer View Post
Worm-drive clamps should never be used on transmission lines because they don't provide enough clamping force, leading to leaks. Machine screw clamps are available and are the more suitable clamp to use.
Quote:
Originally Posted by slowmover View Post
I go to NAPA for the high dollar reinforced hose and build them into harnesses following factory routing. Install and remove as a set, no snaking of lines. Use cushioned Adel clamps less than every foot. And I used Magnefine filters for both fluids.

However done it isn't cheap but worth the trouble.
Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Morgan View Post
Even including the cost of a flare tool and a tubing bender, running steel tube is almost always cheaper than running good hoses, and is always better than the crap hose that typically comes with cooler and remote filter kits.

Plus it can look really nice if done well.


1/2 Ton 4WD Truck, 72 Sovereign Hensley Arrow
Quote:
Originally Posted by slowmover View Post
Bending metal has a learning curve. So time is also cost. I agree with you, otherwise. Ditch the cheap hose and head to NAPA for high pressure reinforced hydraulic hose. Avoid tight bends. That's about it. Lasts easily as long as metal but without fatigue or rust.
Thank's......boy am I dumb.

Glad it only lasted 11 years.




Bob
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Old 01-13-2015, 06:41 AM   #18
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1953 21' Flying Cloud
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Wow. Thanks you guys. You've confirmed a lot of what I was researching and even helped me with some things I had not even thought about. Stronger hoses and deeper transmission pan seem like a great ideas. We may not always be driving through the Rockies, but I want to make sure we get up and over!

I already need to replace my radiator so I'm gonna be getting the biggest I can fit (G20 is pretty tight under the hood) and then I was thinking of adding on the cooler. Crazy?
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Old 01-13-2015, 08:03 AM   #19
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Radiator should have integrated trans cooler tank. Added cooler is downstream. I used strap or brackets to affix cooler to sheet metal, not radiator. In front of fan. PS cooler on low pressure return line and off to if radiator face. So cover for solo winter driving. Filters affixed to fender liner.

Another HD fluid upgrade is to use coolant to warm and cool engine oil by use of a fluid/fluid heat exchanger at oil filter mount. As with ATF tank in radiator, engine oil is warned faster than normal operation, and heat spikes are controlled under high loads. Corvette and other examples from 80s and 90s.

Fit issues include sometimes a shorter oil filter not to mention protection of coolant lines.
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Old 01-13-2015, 08:11 AM   #20
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Transmission Cooler

Robert, I wasn't saying anyone is dumb, I was just offering a bit of advise based on my own (bad) experience.

When I was younger I have installed some like products "out of the box" with less than stellar results.

It sucks to spend a day installing a kit that ends up being unreliable and messy.

I am glad yours worked out well, that just hadn't been my experience.


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