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Old 05-15-2018, 12:19 PM   #1
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Arrow Traction, stability controls on F150

Recently changed my TV to 2015 F150 3.5L turbo which automatically activates traction control, electronic stability control, and roll stability control. There are various options to enable, disable, or set a less sensitive threshold. Seemed like a no brainer safety override with computer generated braking and power adjustments. First trip out had some twisty, hilly roads and my sense was that maybe tow & haul settings and the stability controls were conflicting. Disabling the traction control seemed to smooth things out.
Any clarification of what the computer is doing and whether disabling or lowering sensitivity while towing is advised? Thanks for any advice...Al
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Old 05-16-2018, 06:01 AM   #2
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Tire pressure according to scaled load value is first.

I’d want the WD hitch rigging “perfected” (three passes on a certified scale; Steer Axle value solo vs WD engaged the same) to have an idea about how the combined rig is responding.

Pickups have the problem of both abnormal FF/RR weight bias AND a high Center of gravity. Electronic band-aids will always have to come to the rescue earlier with pickups versus other vehicle designs.
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Old 05-16-2018, 08:58 AM   #3
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Hi

There is nothing subtle about Ford's anti-sway when it cuts in. You will have no doubt at all it has done it's thing. The violent braking is one hint. The big message on the display that says it did it's thing is another hint ....

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Old 05-16-2018, 10:09 AM   #4
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Oh, definately felt it kick in, tho subtle enough that it took a scan of the Ford manual to decide if I was imagining it. Turning the traction control off certainly seemed to clear up the slight grab I had felt. Reading other posts, it seems that the stabilization on the truck side is more competitive than complementary to anti-sway provided by my Equalizer hitch. Figure to tow with setting off.
Question remains whether the electronic stability and roll stability settings are better turned off or set to a less sensitive threshold. ...Al
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Old 05-17-2018, 08:14 AM   #5
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Hi

My decision was to leave it all turned on. The point that things got to in order to activate it was well outside any normal driving conditions. If you have enough sway that you *do* activate it routinely, that part very much needs to be addressed.

Bob
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Old 05-17-2018, 09:28 AM   #6
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Solid advice, Bob. My problem wasn't actual sway, tho, so much as a "grabby" feel in the steering (which I've occasionally felt driving without towing (hilly, curvy roads here abouts). My first thought was that there was a conflict with the tow & haul setting, but it's beginning to seem that the "corrective" breaking/power measures are maybe just way too sensitive. Still don't really know if they would work in conjunction with actual sway suppression from the Equalizer or maybe even compete against. Since there are three components to the truck computer assisted "controls", it gets more complicated from my admittedly ignorant perspective of why & what the truck systems are doing and whether they are designed to work with the towing break controller. ...Al
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Old 05-17-2018, 10:34 AM   #7
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If stability control is activating in nominal or normal conditions, where you are not pushing the car, nor are there significant external forces (e.g. badly adjusted hitch). But you're also saying this happens solo so it's not that.

It could be that there's something mechanically out of spec. The car is detecting a difference between the driver input, and the attitude and heading of the vehicle via the yaw sensors. Which is how the stability control computer senses that it should intervene.

The typical cause for this is something in the suspension or steering causing play or indirection. Could be as simple as alignment or tires. Other times, it's damage or significant wear to a control arm, steering rack, bushing, endlink, or wheel bearing. Could be a bad ABS sensor as well.

I'd take her in and ask for a once over to the alignment and suspension to look for play.
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Old 05-17-2018, 10:48 AM   #8
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Sprinters, the base vehicle for Interstates, have similar stability (ESP) and traction (ASR) control systems. You can disable ASR, but not ESP. Attached Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0001.jpg
Views:	18
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ID:	311218photo of a special Sprinter I rode in to demonstrate the effectively of ESP at a Mercedes Sprinter Tour event a few years back. The Sprinter has a special factory installed switch to disable ESP and outrigger skids to prevent roll over. It was a fun ride with a professional driver at the wheel.
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Old 05-17-2018, 01:33 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by almcate View Post
Oh, definately felt it kick in, tho subtle enough that it took a scan of the Ford manual to decide if I was imagining it. Turning the traction control off certainly seemed to clear up the slight grab I had felt. Reading other posts, it seems that the stabilization on the truck side is more competitive than complementary to anti-sway provided by my Equalizer hitch. Figure to tow with setting off.
Question remains whether the electronic stability and roll stability settings are better turned off or set to a less sensitive threshold. ...Al
1). A different WDH would be a better first step. The two most knowledge AS shops don’t stock or sell the Equalizer brand. It’s an inferior design.

2). A better job in setting the WDH. The Three Pass Method. It also assumes a pickup is warranted. With most rigs out there it was a bad assumption, both solo and for camping. It’s rhe most common rig to be seen. Badly chosen, and very badly hitched.

A). Thus, start with the most basic: what’s the weight of the gear which MUST be carried in the truck bed? Isolate it.

B). Tire pressure according to load. Within the vehicle manufacturers range, and according to the Load & Pressure Table. (Are tires stock size & spec?). Empty or loaded with WD engaged.

.
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Old 05-17-2018, 01:52 PM   #10
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As I assume you bought the truck used, does it have an accident history?
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Old 05-18-2018, 05:09 AM   #11
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It may be time to turn off all electronic TV sway control and get the rig set-up so there is no sway under normal driving conditions.
If it's still activating then address it or return to organic driver initiation.

Bob
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