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Old 01-14-2015, 09:56 AM   #481
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As a current Tundra owner I was an owner of a couple of BMWs back in my youth, 1976 2002 (my Ensignmobile when I got commissioned in the Navy) and a few years later wanted a Tii so found a 2004 2002Tii. After I got married, sold it and never had a BMW again. They got too expensive.

Since my 2010 Tundra sits most of the time would it be better to have synthetic oil? I might use it every couple of weeks to take some yard debris to the recycling center or to run an errand. During the spring, summer and fall I tow our AS to the local COE parks once a month. This June I'm going out to Utah to visit my daughter to camp with her at Grand Canyon North Rim, Zion and Bryce so it will be the first real test of the Tundra towing. Going to Florida in 2013 was no real test.

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Old 01-14-2015, 10:06 AM   #482
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OK, this thread has now become a BMW thread, and, OMG, yet another oil thread!

I think BMW changed their approach to maintenance when they got sued a few years ago by a guy who paid good $$ for a certified used 7-series that was a lease return. It had about 40K miles on the clock, and he had it about a month before the engine blew up. Turned out the car had never had an oil change, not even at the dealer that resold it. He demanded a new engine, they wanted to fix the old one, lawsuit ensued, etc. etc. Initially, BMW began including maintenance in the lease payment, and would add whopping fees at the end of the lease if maintenance documents couldn't be produced. Now I guess they include it an all new cars.

I've never owned a BMW. Not sure why, but they've never appealed to me. A former friend had an M5 with about $10K of Dinan stuff on it, 400+ HP, that car was scary fast, and its 60-year-old dentist owner drove it like a 16-year-old. The guy scared the sh&t out of me - I refused to ride with him. Who cares if he could break the rearend loose at 70 on the freeway? Sheesh.
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Old 01-14-2015, 10:29 AM   #483
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As a current Tundra owner I was an owner of a couple of BMWs back in my youth, 1976 2002 (my Ensignmobile when I got commissioned in the Navy) and a few years later wanted a Tii so found a 2004 2002Tii. After I got married, sold it and never had a BMW again. They got too expensive.


Kelvin
Oops. That should be 1974 2002 Tii not 2004. Getting back to Tundras, I like my Tundra much better than my old 2002s.

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Old 01-14-2015, 03:42 PM   #484
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I have been changing oil and filter. In my Toyota's; '76; '85; and '08 every 3K miles. The Tundra uses 0-20w.
Don't plan to make any changes to my service intervals.
My '76 had 250K; The '85 has 300K and uses no oil. The Tundra has 26K. 95% of it's use is towing my Argosy 26'. I am pushing 70 real hard.
Figure I will expire before the Tundra.
It cost $50+ when I do the work myself. If I could find ethanol free fuel, I would buy it in a heart beat.
Plan to do it myself as long as I can.
Do you think the price of a quart of oil will drop like the fuel prices have?


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Old 01-14-2015, 04:03 PM   #485
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My wifes Chevrolet Venture has 210k miles on it and runs perfect. It has had 10 oil changes since new. If I changed every 3k I would of changed the oil 70 times. No thanks. Its about 10 bucks a qt.
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Old 01-14-2015, 04:24 PM   #486
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my commuter car was a Honda 1500 two door hatch back. 4 cylinders, 2 barrel carb, 52 mpg day in and day out. i started it in the morning, hit the freeway and drove for 1.5 hrs to work, shut it off and then repeated coming home. i changed the oil twice a year, on the season change.

nephew, a petroleum engineer, advised that the biggest threat to a vehicles oil is condensation, start and stop, etc. given this engine came up to temp and stayed there, i was comfortable with this approach through 450,000 flawless miles.
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Old 01-14-2015, 06:33 PM   #487
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I. If I could find ethanol free fuel, I would buy it in a heart beat.

In Morrill, NE, at the U Save Gas at 202 Webster.
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Old 01-14-2015, 07:19 PM   #488
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The biggest problems for internal combustion engines are initial lack of lubrication on initial startup along with the fact that gasoline is a solvent.
It is proven that synthetic lubricants last longer and take longer to break down.But 5000 miles is as long as I personally would go before changes.
Having worked for Mercedes Benz,Ferrari,Lamborghini and Chevrolet I have seen my share of engines.
I run Mobile 1 in everything that I own except my motorcycles.I never go over 5000 miles between changes.
From what I have learned in my career the answer is yes run synthetic oil and change it regularly do not let the computer gunk up you expensive engine.I have seen this happen over and over on BMW and Mercedes Benz automobiles.Free maintainence is nice but you always get what you pay for.


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Old 01-15-2015, 07:39 AM   #489
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Slowmover; Thanks for the info on ethanol free gas. Will check it out. Hope they have at least 87 octane.


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Old 01-15-2015, 07:45 AM   #490
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Locator maps online. Said it was 91-octane.
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Old 01-15-2015, 08:30 AM   #491
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The biggest problems for internal combustion engines are initial lack of lubrication on initial startup along with the fact that gasoline is a solvent.
this is an important point. when i had a larger 911 capable standby power generator installed, the tech set the exercise cycle for every 7 days. their experience was that 'leak down' took 10 days before the surfaces were free of lubricant.
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Old 01-15-2015, 10:06 AM   #492
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My wifes Chevrolet Venture has 210k miles on it and runs perfect. It has had 10 oil changes since new. If I changed every 3k I would of changed the oil 70 times. No thanks. Its about 10 bucks a qt.
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I forgot to say I changed the oil filter about 50 times.
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Old 01-16-2015, 05:19 AM   #493
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OK, this thread has now become a BMW thread, and, OMG, yet another oil thread!
.
Reminds me, what tires are you guys running on your BMWs?

Just kidding!!

Have any of you Tundra guys done anything to your rear suspension to smooth out the ride? There's a post on a Tundra website about replacing the rear bushings in the shackle. It's supposed to improve the "bounce" quite a bit. I'm coming from a 2011 4 Runner, and I've put a lot of miles on a Tacoma (so I've experienced a semi rough ride) it just seems when I'm running empty, on a crappy road (concrete sections that are uneven) I get some serious bounce.
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Old 01-16-2015, 07:57 AM   #494
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I've read installing air bags and setting to about 10lbs helps but I haven't installed them. For the most part I haven't felt the ride was that bad. I have to admit on Highway 69 going south through Oklahoma from Missouri to DFW the ride was not comfortable in sections on that terrible road. Mine is 2wd 2010 Tundra Double Cab.

Do you have 4x4 and the TRD package?

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Old 01-16-2015, 08:07 AM   #495
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I installed air bags on my '08 Tundra 2wd right after I bought it 2 years ago. The tongue weight on my coach is just over 700#'s. I run 25#'s of air in the bags when hitched. There should always be at least 10#'s in the bags when the truck is empty or not towing.


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Old 01-16-2015, 08:23 AM   #496
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Toyota Tundra as a Tow Vehicle

Quote:
Originally Posted by GettinAway View Post
Reminds me, what tires are you guys running on your BMWs?

Just kidding!!

Have any of you Tundra guys done anything to your rear suspension to smooth out the ride? There's a post on a Tundra website about replacing the rear bushings in the shackle. It's supposed to improve the "bounce" quite a bit. I'm coming from a 2011 4 Runner, and I've put a lot of miles on a Tacoma (so I've experienced a semi rough ride) it just seems when I'm running empty, on a crappy road (concrete sections that are uneven) I get some serious bounce.

In a TD it's easy enough to add significant weight to the bed ahead of the rear axle and not much affect fuel mileage in order to "help" the ride. On a gasser, not so. New and/or higher quality shock absorbers in concert with weighing wheel positions to nail best tire air pressure will do the most.

Rancho 9000 adjustable shocks are favorites of some.

The same discussion comes up about the CTD Dodge. I found that adding a rear and upsizing front antiroll bars made the RR crossing motions more controlled. Short of major suspension changes which lower the ability to do work, the following are sometimes recommended. Even if not available for Tundra, they are the type of inexpensive aids which retain OEM capacities:

Sulastic rear shackles (the BFGoodrich Velva-Ride for you old hands)

Mor/Ryde RS rear shackles

From here, discussions go to air ride rear springs, air spring rear shackle enhancements, or auto level kits with specially valved shocks such as Firestone R4Tech or Keldermann or Tow Pride. Expensive.

Same for air ride seats. National Seat has kits for some of our light duty trucks. Also expensive.

2010 and later CTD Dodge trucks have hydraulic body mounts. Retrofit is with some fabrication. So, another avenue of investigation for Tundra.

We're it mine I'd chase after tire choice and shocks. Stock size, but highest quality, such as Michelin LTX A/T2.
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Old 01-16-2015, 08:23 AM   #497
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Originally Posted by TG Twinkie View Post
I installed air bags on my '08 Tundra 2wd right after I bought it 2 years ago. The tongue weight on my coach is just over 700#'s. I run 25#'s of air in the bags when hitched. There should always be at least 10#'s in the bags when the truck is empty or not towing.
How does 10# in the bags not towing effect the ride?
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Old 01-16-2015, 09:52 AM   #498
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I know there is a TSB for the bed bounce. Do a Google search and you should be able to find it. If I remember right it replaces all the body mounts.

I replaced all the shocks and springs on mine to do a lift and that helped quite a bit compared to the stock setup.
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Old 01-16-2015, 10:00 AM   #499
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we looked at getting a Tundra crew cab but the way the rear seats folded down (the seat backs) was no good for hauling our dog with us.

Went with a silverado crew cab because the rear seat bottoms fold up and makes the whole rear floor usable
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Old 01-16-2015, 10:01 AM   #500
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Found this link
Toyota Issues Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) for Tundra 'Bed Bounce' - TundraTalk.net - Toyota Tundra Discussion Forum

Some state it doesn't help much and if you are out of warranty then its expensive. One owner stated Bilstein shocks helped better than the TSB.

I don't find it an issue but if I due I'll try Bilstein shocks first.

Kelvin
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