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Old 03-13-2016, 10:38 AM   #729
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2011 23' FB Flying Cloud
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17 mpg, 2012 tundra double cab, 4 X 4. (Not towing..)
Running regular unleaded w corn. 60-67 mph. Above 67 it seems to drop off.
I'm trying to remember, I think I was getting 12 pulling our 23FC FB out to Colo and back. Same speeds. I'd like better mpg, but I'd have to spend so much money to get it, I don't think I will live long enough or drive far enough to make up the difference with fuel savings.
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Old 03-13-2016, 10:59 AM   #730
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15 mpg empty
10-13 towing


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Old 03-13-2016, 08:13 PM   #731
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Toyota Tundra as a Tow Vehicle

2008 2WD Double Cab 5.7 Ltr V8

19-21 mpg empty. Don't drive over 60mph. Get 11-14 mpg towing depending on which trailer. Argosy 14, Nash 11.
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Old 03-13-2016, 08:33 PM   #732
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1959 26' Overlander
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2015 4WD Crew Max 5.7 Ltr V8

18-22 mpg empty when I don't drive over 65mph. Get 11-14 mpg towing depending on speed.

First tow was 13.5mph targeting 60-65.

Just returned from a 7000 mile trip, averaged 12 mpg. Stayed within 5 mph of speed limit. Mileage is much better at 65 than 84.

Love the truck.
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Old 03-13-2016, 08:50 PM   #733
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Mpg

2008 5.7L 4x4 Crewmax (108,000 miles)

13-15 mpg empty.....Best ever 17mpg one trip @ 65 mph
10 mpg towing @ no more than 65 mph.(slower now that I read this forum with GYM's)
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Old 03-14-2016, 07:32 PM   #734
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I have just run the gauntlet of searching for a new tow vehicle. I found the Fast Lane Truck you tube series very informative. They have tested just about every 1/2 ton combination by driving an 8 mile stretch of I70 up to the Eisenhower Tunnel. Though not very scientific, I did enjoy their comments.
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Old 03-14-2016, 07:54 PM   #735
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TFL Truck is still a good comparison of all the different models.


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Old 03-21-2016, 08:25 PM   #736
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Toyota Mechanic: "it's a very good truck, but brakes are its weak point".

'07 Double Cab, 4wd. At about 70,000 miles, the rotors needed replacing I thought. They seemed to be causing pulsating and looked a bit uneven, but there is a fix for that I have since learned. Stuff from the pads gets stuck on the rotors causing pulsating and it feels like the rotors need turning or replacement. Mechanics are glad to oblige. So they were replaced.

Miles later I learned about what it really could have been. So the solution is to speed up to 60-65, then hard, but not stand-on-the-pedal, braking. You don't want to activate the ABS. Slow to 10 or 15 and then do it again 4 more times or so. Then drive several miles at a moderate speed to cool the brakes without using them. The hard braking melts off the crud. This is also the proper way, more or less, to break in new pads. It does fix the pulsing for a while. At around 102,000 miles the pulsating came back and I went through the speed up, brake, etc., routine and it worked for a while.

At 105,000 miles the right front brake started making bad sounds—grinding. The rotor was badly grooved. It appeared there was a sticking piston in the calipers. Rather than get a real mechanic to look at it, I started reading and ordered rebuilt calipers, better rotors and ceramic pads. Towing a trailer it not good for brakes and stopping 3+ tons of trailer with electric brakes (by definition, lousy brakes) asks for great brakes. Replacing the parts is pretty easy; bleeding is not (wife's untrained foot required). The pedal was still not right, so using the knowledge of brakes from 30+ years ago, I assumed the master cylinder seals were going bad. I got a new master cylinder and a vacuum bleeder, but still didn't have a good pedal. You have to bleed the ABS systemwith some electronic thing if you remove the master cylinder. There was no ABS when I learned about brakes.

So my neighbor arranged for me to have it fixed by a friend who happens to be a Toyota mechanic. I never paid much attention to the rear pads and rotors because rear brakes never wear out—so I thought. Two rear pads were down to metal. I learned with ABS, rear brakes do wear out. He replaced the rear rotors and pads, bled the system and now I have great brakes. The pedal is a bit lower than specs, but it is an old truck and such it to be expected.

Aside from the gas pedal recall (which resulted in a very touchy new pedal; we wish we hadn't taken it in), the truck has been flawless. An oxygen sensor at 104,000 miles (that repair was easy) and a major brake job for around $700 (mechanic got parts through his discount and charged me a lot less for labor; rest I did myself and found a super bargain sale on the front brake parts).

The truck still gets poor mileage (16-17; towing, 10.5-11.5) and the attempts by other companies to increase full sized pickup mileage has been less than thrilling. And their trucks don't last as long and have as good resale. I think we will keep it until we can't travel with a trailer any more; then we would buy a medium sized pickup like the Tacoma if the mileage has improved.

It is a very good truck. All the changes since 2007 have been cosmetic and a vastly increased price; the mechanics of the truck need a serious update. I'm not sure what Toyota is waiting for. For medium sized Airstreams it is a very good option. Buying a used one always make sense with Toyotas, though we don't do it. We usually keep them a long time, though I confess to new truck envy, I will remain strong. My wife never objects to my buying more power tools and usually hasn't complained about buying new vehicles (she loves them, trucks included, too). I told her to say "no" if I weakened. She has been obedient. We will wait.

Gene
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Old 03-21-2016, 08:43 PM   #737
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I am towing a 23 Flying Cloud with a 2012 Tundra. The trailer weighs 6K lbs and is easy to tow. I am adding a weight distribution anti sway system to eliminate swaying at highway speeds. Keep the rpms up and you should be good to go. Tundra is a great truck for your application. Happy trails.
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Old 03-22-2016, 06:56 AM   #738
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Gene,
Great write up on your experience with the Tundra brakes. My 12 has been great. Just has 50,000 miles, so it still feels new. I wish it got better mileage, but I agree with you the new extra mileage gas engines don't improve it enough to justify the upgrade cost for me, and I'm not sure they are as trouble free as our toyotas. As is MWS above, im just pulling a 23'. I suspect if I ever go up to a 25' after retirement and we spend a lot more time in our AS, I'll probably still pull it with the Tundra.
Jeff
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Old 03-22-2016, 08:50 AM   #739
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That funny brake thing happens with my Tundra from time to time, though I never analyzed it that deeply.
I always thought the shimmy came from overheating the rotors due to panic stops- someone pulls out in front of me-
The shimmy seems to go away on its own until the next panic stop and comes back-
I am probably close to getting new pads and rotors turned-
The truck was probably 5-6 years old and had 35,000-40,000 miles the first time it happened-
Now at 51,000 miles and original brake pads-


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Old 03-22-2016, 09:21 AM   #740
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I experienced this towing out to Utah last June on my 2010 Tundra, coming down the Hwy 59 hill into Hurricane, UT from the east and coming down I70 into Denver. I may not have set the trailer brake controller correctly. Once off the hill the brakes felt normal. I had the brake fluid flushed and brakes checked by the dealer just before the trip.

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Old 03-22-2016, 09:43 AM   #741
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Last summer I replaced the warped crap rotors I had gotten from Napa with this setup:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GNBGNBA

The previous rotors warped within a few months. These appears rock solid. Just like the day I put them on. (We have towed all the way across the country since then)
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Old 03-22-2016, 10:11 AM   #742
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Did you keep the rear brakes stock?

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