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Old 08-26-2016, 08:51 AM   #81
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We had a '02 Tacoma and '06 Tundra. The reliability was good, only a leaking crankshaft seal on the Tundra. My concerns were severe frame corrosion on both in our rust belt state, and fuel usage of the 4.7 Tundra V8. I think Toyota was aware of the corrosion issue and even replaced some Tacoma frames, we had a letter for a frame inspection from them. We eventually traded both for different brands which also have been very reliable.
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Old 08-26-2016, 09:01 AM   #82
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My 2010 Tundra 2x4 Double Cab SR5 only had 1465lbs of payload according to the door sticker. My tongue weight is almost 1200lbs on my Classic 25fb with weekend camping load. The payload didn't leave much room for passenger and cargo in the bed. I didn't like how the brakes performed coming downhill on western hills, they would start vibrating when having to slow down on steep long downgrades despite manually shifting down. My add on brake controller was mounted too far down to activate manual trailer brake control comfortably while driving and the Prodigy 2 was sensitive and I could easily lock the trailer brakes with just a minor adjustment which scared me. This was the main reason I switched to a 3/4T truck and eventually went with the Ram 2500 Cummins package. The integrated brake controller provides better adjustments, the exhaust brake works well on hills and the tow haul works better than the Tundra's. We liked the Tundra and it had good power but felt it wasn't as good a tow vehicle as we initially thought after traveling out West last year to Utah and back.

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Old 08-26-2016, 11:23 AM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
We had a '02 Tacoma and '06 Tundra. The reliability was good, only a leaking crankshaft seal on the Tundra. My concerns were severe frame corrosion on both in our rust belt state, and fuel usage of the 4.7 Tundra V8. I think Toyota was aware of the corrosion issue and even replaced some Tacoma frames, we had a letter for a frame inspection from them. We eventually traded both for different brands which also have been very reliable.
Do other brands hold up better as far as rust?
Here in Mississippi rust is not an issue.
The underside of my 1999 looks as new.
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Old 08-26-2016, 11:35 AM   #84
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Yeah goggles lol. 22 foot you don't need much power and shouldn't be close to axle ratings. Unless he is trying to put a golf cart four wheeler Harley or something of that nature in the bed. He didn't mention that so its highly unlikely. Tongue weight and payload are somewhat useful before you buy the trailer and or truck to get an idea that you are in the ball park. Once you have trailer and truck they are useless numbers as to do it right you are going to a scale. To tow that safely & easily with pretty much any "1/2 ton" series truck his primary concern should be a good hitch set up properly using a scale. Ideally a no sway WDH.

Hony, Almost 10,000 posts? You need something to do. You went from being an asset with info to the OP to a nuisance with propaganda. How many times are you going to post that vid in this same thread. Yes we get you are in love with Toyota. Toyota builds a good truck. Newsflash they are not the only one.

A HD seems like overkill for this little trailer especially when not towing but their are some pros & cons. Good points on inspecting for frame corrosion and wanting to know how the truck was used and maybe more importantly maintained.
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Old 08-26-2016, 02:06 PM   #85
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Wouldn't think Utah would be bad for rust, but I don't really know.
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Old 08-27-2016, 10:08 AM   #86
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Where do you get 1,200 lbs. payload?
I'm thinking more like 1,550.
Google says 1,555.
Still a 1/2 ton, but a 1/2 ton with 10,400# towing capacity, albeit by the time you add tongue weight, passengers and fuel you are there.
The truck doesn't seem to know or care. The truck seems to like it.
I wouldn't sweat the 155,000 miles part, either.

This one does have the now defunct 4.7, but I'm sure the 4.6 and 5.7 will go more than 400,000 miles easily.
Look at the sticker inside the door frame. With the 4.7 litres and Four WD I am sure it is close to 1200 pounds.
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Old 08-27-2016, 01:34 PM   #87
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From my door sticker:
The combined weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed 655kg or 1455lbs.
The 100# difference in my door sticker and Google's 1555lbs. may be the Limited package and/or the 20" wheels/tires.
With trailer tongue weight, 2 occupants, and fuel we are all the way there.
GVW is 7000#.
I don't know curb weight.
I don't remember the GWAR FRT or GAWR RR numbers, but I do remember the axle weight ratings added together are larger than the GVW.


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Old 01-10-2017, 09:40 PM   #88
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I have a 2wd 2008 Tundra, 5.7L, SR5, double cab, tow package, tow mirrors. I bought this truck new in 2008 and it has been a great truck. I use it only when I need a truck to carry stuff and to tow my 1966 Tradewind and 1995 34'. The truck still seems new to me and I can't imagine replacing it.

I have always believed that if you drive a new or fairly new vehicle that the minimum depreciation would be about $2,000 to $3,000 per year. Now I got a great deal on my 08 Tundra. I paid only $25,000 for a brand new truck. I checked the retail value of my low mileage Tundra and it is still worth $17,000. This means in 8 years that the depreciation has only been $1,000 per year. Looks like I was wrong about my minimum depreciation number.

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Old 01-11-2017, 02:59 AM   #89
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Do other brands hold up better as far as rust?
Here in Mississippi rust is not an issue.
The underside of my 1999 looks as new.
Rust is a maintenance issue. All the brands rust pretty good if not kept up and that doesn't mean spraying water on the underbody at the car wash.
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Old 01-11-2017, 06:18 AM   #90
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I have always believed that if you drive a new or fairly new vehicle that the minimum depreciation would be about $2,000 to $3,000 per year. Now I got a great deal on my 08 Tundra. I paid only $25,000 for a brand new truck. I checked the retail value of my low mileage Tundra and it is still worth $17,000. This means in 8 years that the depreciation has only been $1,000 per year. Looks like I was wrong about my minimum depreciation number.

Dan
That's pretty good resale value. I've had several toyotas over the years. I've always come out ok on resale. Very little done mechanically except regular maintenance. I know when I was looking for mine a few years ago, finding a used one set up the way I wanted, wasn't easy. I don't think used Tundras set on the lots for very long.
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Old 01-11-2017, 11:30 AM   #91
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I paid $30,000 for my Tundra.
It is fully loaded and extremely low miles.
I just checked Kelley Blue Book value- $20,000-$24,000.
Basically $1,000 per year or less depreciation.
I get mailers from Toyota offering me $14,000 on trade. I think they are assuming the truck has like 80,000 miles based on average mileage per year. So depreciation would be more like $1600 per year given that value. Still not bad. No plans to sell or trade.
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Old 01-12-2017, 08:31 AM   #92
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Originally Posted by m.hony View Post
I paid $30,000 for my Tundra.
It is fully loaded and extremely low miles.
I just checked Kelley Blue Book value- $20,000-$24,000.
Basically $1,000 per year or less depreciation.
I get mailers from Toyota offering me $14,000 on trade. I think they are assuming the truck has like 80,000 miles based on average mileage per year. So depreciation would be more like $1600 per year given that value. Still not bad. No plans to sell or trade.
Dealers won't hand you blue book value in cash. It's a retail value only. You will get wholesale. If you sell privately, buyers will look up wholesale and bargain down to it. Unless you have a nice high end diesel, there are a million of them out there for sale.
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Old 01-12-2017, 12:12 PM   #93
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Not entirely true.
Used Tundras are pretty rare.


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Old 01-13-2017, 06:08 AM   #94
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Millions of used Tundras? I don't think so. Not that many used Tacomas sitting around either.
More and more used diesel pickups out there. Lots of the "not so good" ones from a few years ago. Dealers won't even take a used F250 6.0 in on a trade. Nobody wants them.


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Old 01-13-2017, 07:02 AM   #95
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2014 Tundra with the big cab and regular bed.

Also a 22 Airstream.

Great combo.

We use an equalizer and experience no sway. Great truck with plenty of room, and plenty of power.

I have the truck as my daily driver, and get about 15 around town (not towing). We got about 12-13 mpg towing to Yellowstone and back this summer.

I think you will be happy with that combination.
I didn't think you could get a 2014 with a full (regular) bed. All trucks I saw offered were the same length. Regular cab - 8 foot bed; Double cab - 6.5 foot bed; Crew cab- 5.5 foot bed.

Were you able to special order?
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Old 01-13-2017, 07:08 AM   #96
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2012 Tundra 5.7 base/work truck (no chrome or carpet/no fancy gizmos) with tow package and OEM tow mirrors. I installed Firestone air bags while I had my previous camper as it had significant squat even with a WD hitch.

Tows seemingly effortlessly our 25 Int'l with wife, dog and stuff loaded. There is an aftermarket 45 gallon fuel tank that can be added but not sure if its worth the cost. Some people go with a cold air intake mod to boost HP and fuel mileage https://www.tundras.com/threads/cold-air-intake.2055/

The guys in the oil change pit hate the skid plate.
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Old 01-13-2017, 08:18 AM   #97
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I installed Firestone air bags while I had my previous camper as it had significant squat even with a WD hitch.
Tows seemingly effortlessly our 25 Int'l.
That truck should be well able to handle a heavy load, a REALLY heavy load! Many of the base/work Tundras have payload over 2,000 lbs. outclassing many other base/work 150 and 1500, and even some 250 and 2500 models.

At worst, you will see minor squat, which should be easily remedied with a well adjusted WD hitch. If your WD hitch was set up wrong, and/or your bed is full of firewood, generators, motorcycles, sandbags, coal, gravel, bricks, wet topsoil,....

You have a much better truck than the one you have described. You might want to troubleshoot your setup to find out why it's not performing flawlessly without airbags.
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Old 01-13-2017, 08:53 AM   #98
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Not entirely true.
Used Tundras are pretty rare.


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Old 01-13-2017, 10:03 AM   #99
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Not traded in very often-
People who own them love them and hang on to them.
You don't see Tundras on the side of the road, either.
You don't see many Tundras in the junkyard, either.
Don't believe me?
Look around.
The used Tundras I see are lease turn-ins.


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Old 01-13-2017, 11:30 AM   #100
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That truck should be well able to handle a heavy load, a REALLY heavy load! Many of the base/work Tundras have payload over 2,000 lbs. outclassing many other base/work 150 and 1500, and even some 250 and 2500 models.

At worst, you will see minor squat, which should be easily remedied with a well adjusted WD hitch. If your WD hitch was set up wrong, and/or your bed is full of firewood, generators, motorcycles, sandbags, coal, gravel, bricks, wet topsoil,....

You have a much better truck than the one you have described. You might want to troubleshoot your setup to find out why it's not performing flawlessly without airbags.
My GVWR is 7,100 lbs, The GAWR is 4,150 for the rear axle. The old WD hitch was not set up right, it had a 5 or 6 inch squat to it.
My AS set up is much better, even with the load in the bed. I usually air it up to about 20-25 lbs to tow the camper.
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