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Old 08-05-2012, 07:15 PM   #15
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Yeh, Jason, only something like 1,500' in 14 miles to Hotchkiss. When we run into a cattle drive, we just rope one and she'll pull us back.

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Old 08-05-2012, 07:40 PM   #16
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I am going to replace my 2000 diesel Excursion soon. The power train will never die but it is going into the shop for the second round of power windows work and I am getting tired of fixing the little things.
I am looking at Toyota Sequoias and am seriously considering one if I can overcome the sticker shock.
My question to the Sequoia owners who have kindly written in on this thread is about steep curvy, downhill performance, what about it? My last short wheelbase SUV performed alarmly in this test. I was under the tow rating for the SUV but every time I descended a steep, curvy downhill, it was unpleasant, even with after market sway control. Granted this was a S.O.B. travel trailer with leaf springs and the aerodynamics of a brick.
I live in Colorado so we are talking about 7% + downhills and 35 mph or lower rated hairpins at the end of long straight aways.
Second question conerns brakes. Tundra owners have complained about rotar warpage. Is this a problem? Have TRD rotars solved the problem.
My Ex had this problem, which was solved by aftermarket slotted racing rotars.
I am a leadfoot and drive a lot in the mountains so I am not your average flat land user.
The only reason I am considering a short wheelbase 1/2 ton SUV is that my Airstream is puny, 25 feet and 6300 gvw.
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Old 08-05-2012, 08:24 PM   #17
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Since the Tundra and Sequoia are basically the same vehicle with a different body, brakes should be the same. Because electric drum brakes aren't very good, the truck brakes have to do more work. It is best to downshift going downhill to save the brakes from overheating. Overheating will eventually warp rotors and we replaced ours at around 65,000 miles (around 40,000 miles towing). Living in Colorado we are very familiar with long, steep, curving roads. Rotors aren't very expensive and the labor to replace them is pretty fast, so this is not such a big deal.

It looks like you have the same trailer we have, so the experience should be similar. A panic stop can warp rotors on a flat highway, so it can happen to any vehicle.

Rotors were made thinner in recent years hoping that would reduce warping because thin was thought to mean the rotors would dissipate heat faster, but it didn't work. The new ones were the thickest I could get on the aftermarket.

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Old 08-05-2012, 09:07 PM   #18
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I know I'm rough on my trucks. Living in Houston, I live in traffic and I have a heavy foot. I had a '07 Tundra SR5 4x4 and I replaced the rotors at 45k miles and now I've got an '11 Tundra Limited 4x4 with 40k miles and I'm starting to feel it. Getting ready to replace them.
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Old 08-05-2012, 11:18 PM   #19
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I replaced mine at 65,000 also.

But never felt out of control going down hill. Even coming off either side of the grand Mesa. And if you have been over it you know how steep and windy it is. No problems over red Mt pass either. I down shift and don't have to ride the breaks to much. Never felt like I'm being pushed at all.
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Old 08-06-2012, 02:05 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by handn View Post
My question to the Sequoia owners who have kindly written in on this thread is about steep curvy, downhill performance, what about it? My last short wheelbase SUV performed alarmly in this test. I was under the tow rating for the SUV but every time I descended a steep, curvy downhill, it was unpleasant, even with after market sway control. Granted this was a S.O.B. travel trailer with leaf springs and the aerodynamics of a brick.
There are a couple of things I'll comment on... I also have replaced the rotors/pad on my Sequoia which were getting a bit wobbly when they got hot. There was just under 100,000km (60,000 miles) when I did the front, and I will likely do the back next. You can get cheap rotors online and they are fairly straight-forward as any other disc replacement is. The TRD kit is more than just rotors - it's a kit with new calipers, braided lines and slotted/driller rotors. It would be an excellent upgrade, but is also ~$2000.

For the short-wheel base issue... I can say that I experience none of the quirky crap that I did with my 4runner. The Sequoia has a very short overhang on the back, so you get a lot more weight over the axle than some SUV's that are stretched on the back to make more cargo space. With my lighter 22', I find weight-distribution to be unnecessary, but a 25' has a much higher tongue weight.

The new Sequoia even has trailer-sway control built into the stability control... though you'll find much better deals on a used one.

I'd buy another Sequoia in a heartbeat... we wasted a lot of time and money trying to make smaller options fit... my wife was originally a bit intimidated by the size, but she loves it now. It turns tighter than my Tacoma did...
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Old 08-06-2012, 02:23 PM   #21
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Friday, you may never have to replace the rear rotors unless you keep it for many, many years. 2/3 of the braking is on the front brakes and the rear wears a lot less. I haven't had to replace rear pads in decades.

The Tundra also has a pretty good turning radius, probably the same as the Sequoia.

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Old 08-06-2012, 05:08 PM   #22
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I am doing my due dillegence. The 2012 Sequoia advertises slotted rotors and a more powerful brake boost. Are these upgrades from earlier models?
I am sure tired of parking my Excursion at the local mall.
Now if I can only find 50k+ in spare change lying about.
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Old 08-06-2012, 06:58 PM   #23
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Rregarding rotors and pads... consider replacing with Frozen Rotors www.frozenrotors.com. These are made for heavy duty applications and racing. I have used these in two vehicles, which improved performance and solved heating/warping problems.
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Old 08-13-2012, 04:34 PM   #24
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We have a 2008 Sequoia 4wd, 5.7L V8, with the towing pkg. The manual tells me I can do 9100 lbs max towing capacity and 16,000 lbs total combined max. We don't yet have a TT and are considering a 2005 Safari Bunkhouse with 6215 lb dry weight and 8400 lb GVWR. Does anyone tow a 30ft AS with a Sequoia? Would I be able to safely tow through the mountains? What weight safety margins should I consider? If I go from the mid-west to a coast for three weeks, will I be at my TT's GVWR? Are there any upgrades I would need to keep from tearing the TV up? Planning on a brake controller and WD hitch with sway. It also has over 100k and is still in good shape considering 5 kids. I know it's a lot of questions, but I'm new at this and Any advice would help. Thanks.
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