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gloriavoxdei · 01-22-2010, 08:11 AM

I have a '66 Chevy C10 shortbed that my dad and I are finishing up (been working on it since High School). It has a 396 with a TH350 that has a shift kit, 12 bolt rear, 3.73 gear posi. My next project is going to be an early 70's Tradewind once I find one for a good price. I also have a 24x30 garage to work in so I think I can fit the trailer in garage to do the restoration. My question is should I swap out the coil springs in the back for 3/4 ton springs or will the 1/2 ton springs work out fine with this trailer? I'll be using an Equilizer 4 point hitch with it

silverleeper · 01-22-2010, 08:22 AM

It should work with half ton springs. Make sure the you have a good weight distribution-anti sway setup. Have you converted over to disk brakes yet. At a minimum you will need disks on the front.

Do you have any pics? We like pics here at airforums.

safari57 · 01-22-2010, 01:36 PM

Welcome and it sounds like you have a neat truck on the go. There are several folks on the Forum who tow with similar vehicles and have no difficulty. One thing about your 1/2 ton springs, are they the originals or new? If they are the 1966 springs I'd be tempted to replace them with new ones just to be on the safe side.

Pictures are very important

.

Barry

biggoofball · 01-22-2010, 01:42 PM

Safari57 had the thought I did, so let me 2nd that.

I know a guy with a nice 72 Argosy 22 that would look great behind your truck.

gloriavoxdei · 01-23-2010, 12:03 PM

Since the Garage at our house will not be build untill March the truck is currently at my parents house. I'll get some pics next time I'm off duty. I don't know about a '22, we have 3 small kids so I'm looking for a rig with the duel twin beds and I'll probably build a pair of the bunks that fold into backrests since they seem to be impossible to find (althogh the hinges are available). Might go with a RV sofa sleeper is I have enough clearence, I'll have to see. To answer the question, the springs are new, it's a full frame off redo so the suspention is all rebuilt. As I said, I'll post some pics next week some time for those of you who want to see

safari57 · 01-23-2010, 02:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gloriavoxdei

Since the Garage at our house will not be build untill March the truck is currently at my parents house. I'll get some pics next time I'm off duty. I don't know about a '22, we have 3 small kids so I'm looking for a rig with the duel twin beds and I'll probably build a pair of the bunks that fold into backrests since they seem to be impossible to find (althogh the hinges are available). Might go with a RV sofa sleeper is I have enough clearence, I'll have to see. To answer the question, the springs are new, it's a full frame off redo so the suspention is all rebuilt. As I said, I'll post some pics next week some time for those of you who want to see

It sounds like you have things well under control. With the right hitch you will have miles of smiles. Look forward to seeing the pictures.

It is always exciting when another vintage TV shows up on the Forums.

Barry

bjond · 01-23-2010, 05:31 PM

I tow a 63 Globe Trotter with a 63 C10 Carryall and it has trailing arms with coil springs. I also tow the same Airstream with a new Suburban. Used the same reese weight distributing hitch on both vehicles. The old Burb had more sway on the Interstate when a truck passed, you know the suck you in and then push you out feeling. This was without any sway control.

I added the Reese Dual Cam High Performance Sway Control and now have no problem.

The only difference between the tow setups was the rear suspension , tires and wheelbase(the new Burb has a longer wheelbase). I'm not sure what caused the problem but did fix it.

Inland RV Center, In · 01-23-2010, 06:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gloriavoxdei

I have a '66 Chevy C10 shortbed that my dad and I are finishing up (been working on it since High School). It has a 396 with a TH350 that has a shift kit, 12 bolt rear, 3.73 gear posi. My next project is going to be an early 70's Tradewind once I find one for a good price. I also have a 24x30 garage to work in so I think I can fit the trailer in garage to do the restoration. My question is should I swap out the coil springs in the back for 3/4 ton springs or will the 1/2 ton springs work out fine with this trailer? I'll be using an Equilizer 4 point hitch with it

Your truckwhen new, could tow a 30 foot Airstream trailer, with ease.

The spring rate of the rear suspension, dictates how well or how bad your load equalizing hitch will work.

The greater the spring rate, the less effect the load equalizing hitch has, on overall performace.

Stay with the original spring rate. If the present springs have given up, then replace them with the originals.

Also, to safely tow that 25 foot Airstream, all you need is a Reese dual cam 750 pound hitch. Anything more will have a negative effect, on towing stability.

Excessive rated tow vehicles and hitches, will in the long run, cause damages to the trailer, from vibration.

Make sure the running gear is properly balanced and the suspension system is OK.

When all of that is correct, you will enjoy towing that Airstream, like it wasn't behind you.

Andy

gloriavoxdei · 01-24-2010, 10:45 AM

I was just thinking about it and how do you install a brake controller in a vintage c10? I know my Yukon XL is prewired for it because of the towing package. Any tips from you guys? Silverleeper, we put a disc conversion on the front using a '78 chevy c10 proportioning valve and lines, actually fit pretty good.

Inland RV Center, In · 01-24-2010, 10:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gloriavoxdei

I was just thinking about it and how do you install a brake controller in a vintage c10? I know my Yukon XL is prewired for it because of the towing package. Any tips from you guys? Silverleeper, we put a disc conversion on the front using a '78 chevy c10 proportioning valve and lines, actually fit pretty good.

Installing a electronic brake controller, including all the wiring, will take about an hour. The controller itself, should be mounted in the truck, so that you can "instantly" reach it if and when necessary.

Wiring diagrams and instructions come with new controller.

You will need a 7way connector with a bracket on the truck. You should use the connector that has round terminals instead of the flat type. The flat pins do not provide the connection integrity that the round pins do.

The wiring color codes for the trailer are easy. If you don't have them, simply ask, and someone will quickly post what they are.

Andy

silverleeper · 01-24-2010, 11:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gloriavoxdei

I was just thinking about it and how do you install a brake controller in a vintage c10? I know my Yukon XL is prewired for it because of the towing package. Any tips from you guys? Silverleeper, we put a disc conversion on the front using a '78 chevy c10 proportioning valve and lines, actually fit pretty good.

I have read that a newer Chevy was a good doner for this. I went with a kit on my conversion. Installing a brake controller is not that difficult. As Andy said you will need a 7-pin connector in the back. You will need to run a wire for brake controller to the back for brakes and a charge line for the trailer. This will be covered in the instructions with the new brake controller. Everything is pretty straight forward and you can always get a pointer or two here.