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Old 03-23-2011, 10:01 AM   #1
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Towing and oil analysis

When I was towing with a diesel (2002 F-350 7.3), I always sent off an oil sample at every oil change. There are a few oil labs out there but I used Blackstone and have been using them for a long time. I used Amsoil for over 100,000 miles and then my iron went to crap. Come to find out that Amsoil does have some problems after long periods of use. I found this out from another oil web site, www.bobistheoilguy.com . Anyway, I went to Chevron Delo 400 on my diesel and use the Chevron equivilent dino oil in my V-10. I send off oil samples every so often but not at every oil change. I added the Fumoto oil pan lever to allow for easier oil sampling and also to eliminate some idiot cross threading or not tightning the plug. I have attached an interesting article from Blackstone on a towing trip one of their managers made with a TV of a Toyota and a bumper pull. You might like to read this-

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http://www.blackstone-labs.com/Newsl...m_medium=email
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Old 03-23-2011, 10:58 AM   #2
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You might also try the services of someone much more talented than a lab technician:

DYSON ANALYSIS

Nothing wrong with Blackstone (have used them; and others) but can can do better.

Thanks for the above link. Enjoyed.
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Old 03-23-2011, 11:23 AM   #3
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I've used blackstone many times and am very happy with the reporting and turnaround time.

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Old 03-23-2011, 12:15 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REDNAX View Post
You might also try the services of someone much more talented than a lab technician:

DYSON ANALYSIS

Nothing wrong with Blackstone (have used them; and others) but can can do better.

Thanks for the above link. Enjoyed.

Dyson web site no worky.
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Old 03-23-2011, 01:16 PM   #5
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I have recently started using oil analysis. While it is possible that I'll end up collecting a bunch of interesting but useless data, I'm hoping that I'll be able to better adjust drain intervals to match my situation, and also be better informed before making major repairs.

Several years ago I had extensive brake and transmission work done on a truck of mine. The engine failed six months later. I would have scrapped the truck before doing the brake and transmission work had I known that was coming.
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Old 03-23-2011, 02:03 PM   #6
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Simple_Approach

Ford Diesel Engine - Ford Diesel Oil - Motorcraft (always prime that large filter)
Ford Gasoline Engine - Ford Gasoline Oil - Motorcraft

Change when the color goes from amber color toward dark brown(never Black)

The drain plug is magnetic - visual inspect for metal particles.

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How much $ does it cost to have oil analized?
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Old 03-23-2011, 02:46 PM   #7
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Around $20 a sample.
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Old 03-23-2011, 03:11 PM   #8
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A diesel oil change is only about $40 - DIY value

Seems cheaper to change it often.
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Old 03-23-2011, 04:59 PM   #9
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Even with frequent oil changes, your engine could be in trouble. If a crank bearing is wearing or a brass washer, coolant leak, you name it, it will show up on an oil analysis. I am a firm believer in using them, especially in a diesel. I send off a sample to Blackstone on my V-10 gas rig about every 20k. They also analyze tranny fluid for those that have other potential issues.

Here's the info on the Fumoto oil drail system.
http://www.fumotousa.com/main.htm
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Old 03-23-2011, 06:06 PM   #10
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Fixed it for you Dyson
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Old 03-23-2011, 08:21 PM   #11
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Blackstone samples cost $25 and you can request any number of sample kits for free. Postage averages $5, so for the "simple sample", which is what I use, it's 50% cheaper than dyson for the same information. Maybe the Dyson analysis is better, who knows, but there are alot of folks using Blackstone and I have been very satisfied with their service since 2002.

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Old 03-23-2011, 08:41 PM   #12
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I have used FLEETGUARD CC2525 OIL ANALYSIS KIT-Dodge Cummins Diesel Truck Accessories – Geno’s Garage for my Cummins. Looks like it is provided by Fleetguard. I have not cross checked their work with anyone else's. IMHO, an analysis seems like good insurance to learn of any problems. Their report stacks the previous findings so you can see changes.
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Old 03-23-2011, 09:57 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pappy19 View Post
I have attached an interesting article from Blackstone on a towing trip one of their managers made with a TV of a Toyota and a bumper pull. You might like to read this-
A few comments regarding the Blackstone-labs towing article.
  • Coolant temperature gauges on modern vehicles (my X5 is one) are often “overridden” by the ECU once they come up to “normal” so that the gauge stays at the “normal” mid-range position until the coolant temperature becomes hot enough to be of concern, then the ECU allows the gauge to move into the hot zone. This is done so as to not alarm the driver as the loaded engine temperature rises but is still within safe limits.
  • Concerning engine wear, with normal maintenance there are three primary wear culprits. First there is engine start/warm-up; second “shock loading” and third “lugging”. Once the engine is up to operating temperature where all of the moving parts have expanded to design spec. the oil is “hydrodynamically” lubricating the engine. This means that the moving parts are held away from one-another just like that water skier is held off the bottom of the lake by their movement through the water.
At start/warm-up the oil is not circulating and the anti-wear additives which have reacted with the engine parts “shear” off as the parts come into contact thereby minimizing wear, but not entirely eliminating it.

Shock loading occurs if you “pop” the clutch or in any way shock the drive train. When “shock loading” happens, the hydrodynamic lubrication fails as the shock causes the moving parts to break through the oil film and microscopically spot weld to one another (wear).

Lugging the engine results when the engine parts are turning so slowly that the “hydrodynamic” lubrication fails, i.e. the boat tows the skier too slowly causing the skier to scrape the bottom of the lake.

Its not just the engine that the above is applicable to, as the whole drive train (engine, transmission, transfer case, differentials) is similarly affected.

Incidentally, one of the reason an automatic transmission is preferred for towing is that by design its torque converter and hydraulic shifting eliminate “shock loading” during start off and gear changes.

What I do when towing is always pull away from a stop very slowly until I get up to 10 to 15 mph, then its “Katy bar the door”.

Additionally, since my gasoline engine rpm is generally between 2,000 and 2,700 rpm, I use a synthetic 15W-50 engine oil, as viscosity is the main protector of a heavily loaded engine.
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