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Old 03-31-2013, 02:25 PM   #57
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I spoke to a few tire store managers and my father about the experience with my new "tow vehicle" tires (michelin LTX M/S2) on the truck and the sway- that was the only difference I had since my last tow which was stable without sway. As a matter of fact, I assumed that no sway was an Airstream thing as I had never experienced it until this tire changeout. All three believe it is the tire pressure being too low. One manager said that the higher rated tire would need near maximum psi to be loaded as I did. I would not run 80 psi but perhaps 70 psi. I will continue to post as I discover more. I do believe that they are one of the best rated tires for tow vehicles (trucks).
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Old 03-31-2013, 05:44 PM   #58
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I spoke to a few tire store managers and my father about the experience with my new "tow vehicle" tires (michelin LTX M/S2) on the truck and the sway- that was the only difference I had since my last tow which was stable without sway. As a matter of fact, I assumed that no sway was an Airstream thing as I had never experienced it until this tire changeout. All three believe it is the tire pressure being too low. One manager said that the higher rated tire would need near maximum psi to be loaded as I did. I would not run 80 psi but perhaps 70 psi. I will continue to post as I discover more. I do believe that they are one of the best rated tires for tow vehicles (trucks).
I now have the same tires on my truck in the oem size. They are not my first choice, but I'm happy to try them out over the next 5-7 years.

Do total axle weights and then individual wheel positions. Pressure (and reserve load margins) have to do with the tire at either end of the axle that "sees" more weight.

My last round on the scale found me within 40#, FF or RR, port or starboard. Staying within the vehicle manufacturer guidelines it's easy enough to choose the correct number. Load versus Pressure is the mantra, but the VM range points in the right direction from there.

From that point, IMO, one might move up 5# or so, but time/miles with the closest "best" number one can get means more. I'd stay with it versus monkeying with tire pressures. (After all, of what quality is ones tire gauge? Checked against a calibrated instrument?)

Attention to worn vehicle bushings, better shock absorbers, steering gear slop (typical for pickups, even new), worn springs, alignment, brake drag (either vehicle), TT bearing drag, hitch rigging values, etc., are the places to go. Assume nothing.

Inflation changes are often (usually) crutches.

.
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Old 03-31-2013, 05:56 PM   #59
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'mover,

Good point about tire gauges not being all that accurate. My gauge, the one on the compressor and the reading on the TPMS are all different, though within 3 lbs. of each other. It is nice to be accurate, but obsessing over it is not worth it. Err on side of more pressure rather than less.

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Old 03-31-2013, 06:24 PM   #60
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Or, a quality gauge in the first place. Given the expense of [10] best quality tires in use at any time (service + spares' perhaps $2000 or more), a LONGACRE tire gauge or other might be considered realistic in price ($100 under/over).
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Old 03-31-2013, 08:18 PM   #61
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Gee, Moosetags started this thread 7 years ago and here we are still bickering about it. I wonder what he bought and if he still remembers how well they lasted....?
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Old 04-01-2013, 07:55 AM   #62
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The tires are P275/65R18 114T M+S Max load 2601 @ 44psi
What pressure to use in your truck?When the truck is empty and not towing I run 30psi in the front and 33psi in the rear.
What does the vehicle tire placard say? (If the tire size is the same as what is written there, then the pressure is appropriate as well.)Door placard is 30psi front; 33psi rear. Tires are the same as the placard.
And why weren't you discussing the front tires? The rear axle is where the load is, not considering the WD hitch. When the box is loaded (not towing) you can't use a WD hitch. When towing, I run 33psi front and 40psi rear.
The front axle rating is 3900#. The rear is 4100#. GVWR is 6900#.

The 114T number is higher than the 104T mentioned above on these tires.
An LT235/75R15 Load Range C has a Load Index of 104/101 (Single/Dual), while a Load Range E in the same size has a Load Index of 116/113.
First, what I am saying is those tires are not Load Range D tires. They are Standard Load P type tires
My tires fall in between the 104 for "C" range and 116 for "E" range. So they are in the "D" range. So I guess they are not "P" rated metric.

Allow me to try to state this a different way:

If you have a P type tire (the letter "P" in front of the tire size), then they are either "Standard Load" or "Extra Load". Look at the sidewall of the tire for those words.

If a tire has a "Load Range", it is an LT or an ST or some other kind of tire. not a P type tire.

"Load Range" is NOT a range of loads. It's a way of expressing the maximum load for the particular tire size - and the fact that one could build a tire with a higher load carrying capacity in a given size by increasing the inflation pressure. For example, a very small LT tire like an LT205/75R15 Load Range D has a load carrying capacity of 1765# (single), while an LT255/85R16 Load Range D has a load carrying capacity of 3000#(single)

http://www.trucktires.com/bridgeston...loadTables.pdf

See pages 98 & 99.

Now let's look at what is on your vehicle now. P275/65R18 114T - that's a Standard Load tire. (It doesn't come in an XL!)

The load carrying capacity on your tires at the inflation pressure stated (30/33) are 2202#/2305#.

The GAWR's on your vehicle are 3900# and 4100#. Note that the GAWR's are less than the load carrying capacity of the 2 tires on each axle (4404#/4610#). That means the inflation pressure listed on the vehicle tire placard is adequate for the fully loaded vehicle.


OK, that's the first step. I'll let that sink in before I move on.
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Old 04-03-2013, 10:54 AM   #63
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Capri Racer,
You should contact the Alumpalooza folks about putting on a tire seminar at a trailer rally or maybe writing an article for the Blue Beret. It would provide a lot of help to us obsessed tire geeks.
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Old 04-03-2013, 11:34 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowmover View Post
Or, a quality gauge in the first place. Given the expense of [10] best quality tires in use at any time (service + spares' perhaps $2000 or more), a LONGACRE tire gauge or other might be considered realistic in price ($100 under/over).
You are just WRONG for giving me one more bit of tool porn to want. Now I "need" one of these.
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Old 04-07-2013, 01:35 PM   #65
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Longacre has refurb/blems of the 0-100psi digital gage under $100 instead of over $135.

I have one on order.
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Old 04-07-2013, 02:49 PM   #66
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Cheap gauges are fairly accurate—between the compressor gauge, hand held one and and TPMS monitor, they are all within 3 lbs. of each other. That's about 4%. I go with the higher number of the 3 and figure that works best.

After buying a top of the line miter saw as my Xmas present to myself, I have to avoid tool porn for a while (I do like to look).

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Old 04-08-2013, 07:45 PM   #67
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Cheap gauges are fairly accurate—between the compressor gauge, hand held one and and TPMS monitor, they are all within 3 lbs. of each other. That's about 4%. I go with the higher number of the 3 and figure that works best.

After buying a top of the line miter saw as my Xmas present to myself, I have to avoid tool porn for a while (I do like to look).

Gene
Gene, I feel certain that you'll need it around the new house when it comes air-powered paint sprayers, etc. Proper line pressure, you know . . . .
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Old 04-21-2013, 02:05 PM   #68
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Update to posting on an old post!

Ok, we finished testing the tire situation. Here is the run down. I have a 2009 F150 and a 25' Safari. I had D Rated General Tires on the tow vehicle and bought new Michelin E rated M/S 2 tires for it (same size) and suddenly have a problem with sway. Before the tire replacement, the truck and trailer moved as one on the highway with a solid feel.

I earlier mentioned that it may have been caused by under inflation. That was corrected and it made no difference. Secondly, we readjusted the WD hitch using different chain settings - no difference. We are convinced now that it is the tires and that they have a softer give as they also ride softer overall and are quieter. I am in the process of purchasing a used pro pride 3P hitch as a result.

BTW, I have the Longacre 0-125 digital gauge red face. Thanks for the advice though on air pressure.
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Old 04-21-2013, 02:25 PM   #69
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We have the Load Range E Michelin M+S AT2, a slightly different tire, but I think it is more in the tread than the sidewalls. We keep the pressure in the mid 40's. On our Tundra, we have never had any sway.

You have an '09 truck—can it be the suspension? How is it wearing? Have you tried to upgrade shocks—ours came with Bilsteins and they are a good upgrade. That would be the simpler thing to do next. It looks like you can get a set of 4 for $300-400.

Michelins do ride well and somehow the combination does not work as well with your Ford as you want and need. The original tires may have masked a problem with the Ford suspension.

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Old 04-21-2013, 02:39 PM   #70
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I had a similar, but different problem a while back....I replaced some Michelin LRE's with some Pirelli LRE's, same size, same truck, same trailer, same hitch and adjustment, and with the Pirelli's I had "instability", but not sway.

Aired the rears up to 80 psi( up from 75 , and the fronts at 60 (down from 65) and it was better, but never was as good as the Michelins.
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