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Old 02-20-2016, 10:13 AM   #43
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I have almost every type of vehicle in my stable except a heavy truck. I have a high performance sports car, a family SUV, a 1950's collector car and several others including my trusty Tundra for towing the Airstream. I also worked my way through university in a shop that maintained taxi cabs, so I have quite a bit of experience with brakes.

In my opinion the best option is to buy the best parts that your local autoparts store has.

I shop at the local Napa, and have their ultra premium rotors and pads on 3 cars, and couldn't be happier. definitely an improvement over stock without the cost of exotic parts you have to order online and wait for delivery. If they don't have the parts in stock they normally have them next day, and if I get the incorrect part by mistake, it's a short drive to return/exchange.
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Old 02-20-2016, 10:46 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Morgan View Post
<<<"Brake pads are designed to last 25K to 50K on average. People getting 80K + out of their pads don't drive often.">>>

Huh?



Brevi tempore!
I don't drive much either, dodge has 96000 miles towing the airstreams coast to coast, better drivers get more mileage out of their brakes and in the mountains the exhaust brake sure is nice, my big trucks run 500,000 miles between brake replacements...
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Old 02-20-2016, 02:30 PM   #45
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I just trade 'em in when they need brakes, start over...can never be too careful.

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Old 02-20-2016, 08:50 PM   #46
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With a Ford tow vehicle, there are some setups with hydraulic booster driving from the power steering pump. I would guess you are not in this group but that is another area where you braking can be reduced by losses in the power steering pump.
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Old 02-20-2016, 08:55 PM   #47
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With a Ford tow vehicle, there are some setups with hydraulic booster driving from the power steering pump. I would guess you are not in this group but that is another area where you braking can be reduced by losses in the power steering pump.
I have read about this, I think it's more then I'd want to get into. Another option though, thanks.
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Old 02-21-2016, 12:07 AM   #48
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Brake pads are designed to last 25K to 50K on average. People getting 80K + out of their pads don't drive often.

Hi, I think this was meant to say, "People getting 80K + out of their pads don't stop often."

Being from Southern California, brake pads don't last long due to traffic lights and stop signs every fifty feet. Those who live in farm-land can drive for days without ever stopping. [exaggerated, but true]
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Old 02-21-2016, 11:03 AM   #49
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Ted, I was just saying it is a known problem in Fords. The folks that sell aftermarket solutions end up replacing the power steering pump too because it quickly becomes the week link in the system.
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Old 02-21-2016, 11:46 AM   #50
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Maybe part of the reason that I'm at 180K on the original brakes is the driving style that my truck creates. Its not a stoplight to stoplight racer and I favor a bigger gap between me and the vehicle in front of me. So that may help and the manual trans but I DO NOT rely on downshifting as braking. My brakes beat a clutch trying to slow a vehicle just using the two wheels on the rear axle. And I know a clutch replacement is more expense and difficult than raising a wheel and doing brakes.
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Old 02-21-2016, 11:56 AM   #51
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I always use the brakes only when I need to. My hill driving style is one which I maintain downhill speed by engine braking alone, unless of course it is really steep. Even then, it's about keeping the speed down. I know the brakes are there as a secondary measure. Relying on brakes alone is not something I want to be doing. Some say I am too cautious, it's just that a 17,000 lb truck and trailer on a mountain pass is nothing like being in a car and these folks don't understand that. They start passing on a downhill and don't understand they are headed right into the point of no return.
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Old 02-21-2016, 12:05 PM   #52
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120k on first set of tires and 90k on second is 50/50 town/country.

Like Gary just above, it's how one chooses to drive. And what one drives should have something to say about it. The heavier the vehicle, the more important is stopping distance.

As the tires in this truck are replaced at the same interval as brakes -- and both brakes & tires still have significant life left at 120k -- it's a matter of having gotten my money's worth.

I've no real reason to replace the original clutch at 210k and thirteen years except it seems like a good idea.

On to the second half of the life of this truck that stays between 8-9k pounds, empty to loaded.

Brakes are the last choice. Drive so as to never stop. It works.
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Old 02-21-2016, 03:58 PM   #53
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Slowmover,

If you experience intermittent shifting difficulties might be the pilot bearing. More details if you want via pm.

Gary
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Old 02-22-2016, 07:16 AM   #54
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I recall your posts on that topic. Thx.

Knock on wood, this one is smooth as can be.

Clutch replacement is more about looking to the next 7-10 years of service versus the need for service.

Now, if only I could say that about the Super 10 behind a 3406e in the work truck. Downshifted only once coming up The Gorge into Asheville yesterday at 79k+. And that was due to traffic. But it was a damned slow shift, ha!
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Old 02-22-2016, 08:29 AM   #55
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Quote:
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Here is my current Brake Upgrade Plan:

Replace all calipers with a good factory rebuild such as NAPA severe duty or Motocraft.

Replace all brake lines with steel.

Replace all brake pads with OEM Heavy Duty.

I think that is a good balance of performance and cost.

What do you think?
Ted S. - I think that is a great plan to fix your present brake issue.
I had an older truck and a VW Jetta where I replaced the flexible rubber lines with stainless steel flexible lines and the braking did improve. When I had to put brakes on my Honda Civic I used Power Stop since they were on sale at Rockauto.com. I put slotted rotors on the front with their upgraded brake pads. My experience is that the front will lock up too fast (car does not have anti-lock brakes and has drum in the rear) and they are noisy on long down hill hard stop. They were manufactured in China, I will not be purchasing them again and will go back to OEM or Napa on the next change out.
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Old 02-22-2016, 10:35 AM   #56
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Just saw this thread...and been to the Borrego Springs desert from Ramona last 2 weekends, going over the 8% grade down to Borrego. Noticed the front wheels showing a "LOT" of burnt break dust this trip, and could smell when I pulled in to our camp site. I used the manual trailer control on the dash most of the way down this time, but unusual to see this much black dust. At 78K miles, I will take in and have a look at what is happening. First concern I have had for breaks; hope it is not serious.
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