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Old 01-19-2015, 10:39 AM   #57
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I would go for a GMC Denali 4 door short bed (6-1/2 foot) 2500. I have the same thing except a 3500 and love it my second one, I tow all kinds of trailers and I am getting a 31 foot Classic in a month or so. I have had Tahoe's and Suburban's and the Tahoe was just too short of a wheel base and that is probably the problem you have with the Infiniti.

buy a diesel in my opinion and they don't need ran hard, that is and old fashioned idea, the new diesels don't smoke. plenty of power plus you get an exhaust brake which is very nice when going down long steep grades.

ford is recalling some of the new 6.7 power stroke diesels for shutting of

GMC and Chevy diesels have a 36 gallon fuel tank..

Make your own decision as some on here seem to try and tow big trailers with tiny cars and small SUV like a X5 BMW what are an unsafe practice in my opinion. read the owners and never exceed the maximum towing capacity there is a reason for these ratings!!!

what ever you choose----

weigh the trailer loaded with water, propane and all the interior goodies and your Hensley then you can calculate the true loaded weight.

you only have one life and I believe in living safely not pushing the envelope by using toys to tow trailers.

My comments were not made to stir the pot just my experience from owning a truck and trailer repair shop and a towing business.... and towing all size and weight trailers with many different tow vehicles.

have fun and be safe. plus if it tows nice the wife will drive

who wants to run 55 on a 70 MPH expressway to tow with a tiny TV

not me as this is an accident waiting for a place to happen.
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Old 01-19-2015, 11:01 AM   #58
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Originally Posted by rostam View Post
I hope you are aware of this: The OP is unhappy with a 400HP/400 lb-ft of Torque tow vehicle
I was aware, but did not care. The original poster was being sketchy on details.

But just to be argumentative, with the Q7 he keeps the torque, loses 500lbs in curb weight, upgrades the suspension, lowers the center of gravity, shortens the tail overhang I think. HP doesn't get you up and going.

Once upon a time they would have called such a vehicle a station wagon.

The Nissan SUV seems to be modeled on a raised brick. To each their own though.The Q7 seats 7 but actually is a little constricted inside, but is very pretty and much nicer for city driving.

As for the Grand Caravan(which would work) I admit I was just baiting. I actually think the original poster should try to fix his current setup rather than trade money for a different set of issues on the F250/350 Ram 2500 or whatever it's called.


* oh the Q7 has torque vectoring Audi AWD, that could be useful also
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Old 01-19-2015, 11:03 AM   #59
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I was considering a F250 until I learned the shortest one made is 3 feet longer than my Expedition. I need a larger garage. Also, not sure how a really large truck = safety (other than collision with small car). Large trucks are not as nimble and so on. Their solid front and rear axles are the least grippy suspension types. It's a dillema I'll be facing to as I consider replacing my old tow vehicle in a couple years.
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Old 01-19-2015, 11:25 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EarlM View Post
I would go for a GMC Denali 4 door short bed (6-1/2 foot) 2500. I have the same thing except a 3500 and love it my second one, I tow all kinds of trailers and I am getting a 31 foot Classic in a month or so. I have had Tahoe's and Suburban's and the Tahoe was just too short of a wheel base and that is probably the problem you have with the Infiniti.

buy a diesel in my opinion and they don't need ran hard, that is and old fashioned idea, the new diesels don't smoke. plenty of power plus you get an exhaust brake which is very nice when going down long steep grades.

ford is recalling some of the new 6.7 power stroke diesels for shutting of

GMC and Chevy diesels have a 36 gallon fuel tank..

Make your own decision as some on here seem to try and tow big trailers with tiny cars and small SUV like a X5 BMW what are an unsafe practice in my opinion. read the owners and never exceed the maximum towing capacity there is a reason for these ratings!!!

what ever you choose----

weigh the trailer loaded with water, propane and all the interior goodies and your Hensley then you can calculate the true loaded weight.

you only have one life and I believe in living safely not pushing the envelope by using toys to tow trailers.

My comments were not made to stir the pot just my experience from owning a truck and trailer repair shop and a towing business.... and towing all size and weight trailers with many different tow vehicles.

have fun and be safe. plus if it tows nice the wife will drive

who wants to run 55 on a 70 MPH expressway to tow with a tiny TV

not me as this is an accident waiting for a place to happen.
Agreed. Pickup Trucks are real vehicles, everything else is a toy that can only run at 55MPH without passengers or fuel. Get as big a truck as possible, and jack it up as high as you can with as big tires as they make. I recommend a trip to the CAT dealer.
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Old 01-19-2015, 11:27 AM   #61
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Originally Posted by timhortons View Post
I actually think the original poster should try to fix his current setup rather than trade money for a different set of issues on the F250/350 Ram 2500 or whatever it's called.
I'm in the same camp. His issues could be solved with just a few simple adjustments to his set up. Making a sideways/downgrade/upgrade??? step to a pick up could only bring on more/different issues.
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Old 01-19-2015, 12:07 PM   #62
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Bingo. A good used Ford Powerstroke is relatively easy to find and will do almost anything you ask it to. 4WD and the King Ranch option is very nice. I was getting 16mpg avg. They were very easy to maintain. I really have a hard time spending 50-70 thousand on a new truck. I am running the Traveler 15/40 oil in my 89 FSuperduty/460. BTW, I saw your post about fuel prices up in Harrison. Have you heard anything about Dogpatch being reopened?
Clayton
Yes, I saw a news article saying that the land had been purchased recently.... Inventor purchases former Dogpatch land - HarrisonDaily.com: Neighbors

I am very satisfied with my Ford F250 PowerStroke and our Avion. Both were "steals" so I feel like I have LOTS of money I could put into both, even if it's just in the feeding of diesel, oil, add-on exhaust brake, bypass oil filter, etc. I used to play in the new vehicle racket.... no more.
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Old 01-19-2015, 05:34 PM   #63
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You just lost me. What's a full FALR?
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Old 01-19-2015, 06:14 PM   #64
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Front Axle Load Rating. It's on the door placard.
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Old 01-19-2015, 06:28 PM   #65
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Ed,

Please call Andy at CanAM RV and discuss your reservations/concerns with your current TV setup and Trailer. He is the expert with 30+ years of experience. He can steer you in the correct direction and afterwards you will be setup correctly feeling better about everything without spending thousands to upgrade your current TV and then finding out you still need a daily driver on top of it.

I drove from Denver to Can-Am for Andy to set everything up on my ML350 and could not be happier.

It will be the best advise you will get period!

Can-Am RV Centre | #1 Airstream Dealer in Customer Satisfaction Worldwide | Your Full-Service RV Dealer

1-866-CAN-AM-RV (1-866-226-2678)
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Old 01-20-2015, 08:07 AM   #66
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Tow vehicle

We have a Ram Diesel with 6.7L turbo and it tows with no issues. I hardly know the 27FB Classic trailer is behind me. The diesel gets 16 - 17 mpg without the trailer and 12 - 14 mpg with the trailer. The only trouble with the diesels is the cost of fuel. Now that gas is so cheap it is hard to believe that diesel isn't lower. If you plan on doing a lot of traveling, go diesel.
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Old 01-20-2015, 08:56 AM   #67
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Originally Posted by m.hony View Post
Front Axle Load Rating. It's on the door placard.

Nope. The rating on the door jamb is the axle's load max. FALR is front axle load restoration - meaning, % of load you restore to the front axle with your WD product that was lifted off when you attached the trailer. It's not on the door jamb, it's most likely in your user manual. Some require 0%, some 50% and some 100% depending on application (so if connecting the trailer pulls 500# off your front axle, your user manual might tell you you need to restore 0, 250 or 500# back to the front axle with your WD hitch).
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Old 01-20-2015, 10:18 AM   #68
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I like my short box, 4x4, 4 door dodge with 6.7 cummins with exhaust brake, don't have to worry about the big hills or the down grades.It is the same length as my single cab Ford with a long box,but it turns way tighter. I can't see anyone going for less. No such thing as too much money or too much horsepower.
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Old 01-23-2015, 12:38 PM   #69
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Just as a point of information: the Chevy and GMC half tons are rated at 1960 lbs. cargo capacity with the 6.2 liter engine and the max trailer tow package ("NHT") and have a towing capacity equal to or greater than any currently made Airstreams GVWR. I've driven this truck, and it "drives small" when it's not towing anything. Ford's new F-150 has the same or greater capabilities with the 5 liter V-8 or the 3.5 liter Ecoboost if you specify the max trailer tow package. Previous model F-150s will also work with the Ecoboost engine, the max payload and max trailer tow package.
Perhaps the reason people feel more "comfortable" using a 3/4 ton is that those trucks weigh from 1,000 to 1,500 lbs. more, empty, than a half ton (with diesels on the heavier side). So, being relatively heavier vs. the trailer than the 1/2 tons, they feel more "in control" when pulling the trailer. This relative difference would be even greater with the new aluminum F-150, which is about 500 lbs. lighter than its similar 1/2 ton competitors. And I'm referring to crew cab 4wd versions with standard bed and "lariat" or equivalent trim packages.
I'm not sure a gas 3/4 ton would be a happy combination since approximately the same horsepower and torque that you would find in a half ton is being asked to move 1,000 lbs. extra in vehicle weight.
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Old 01-23-2015, 12:42 PM   #70
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Also, on the used front, note that the 6.0 and 6.4 liter Ford "Duramax" Diesel engines have known design flaws that often lead to failure (in the case of the 6.0) in less than100,000 miles.
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