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03-05-2010, 09:13 PM
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#1
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Rivet Master
2020 30' Classic
Derwood
, Maryland
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,515
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Touareg & Cayenne Prodigy Install Instructions - Second Generation Models
Abbreviated Instructions on how to connect the vehicle tow harness as located in '07 and newer "Peppers" & "Eggs" to Tekonsha Prodigy or Prodigy P3 Brake Controllers.
PARTS LIST
One VW/Audi Plug Housing part number 1J0972782
TWO VW/Audi Wire & Connectors part number 000979228
One Micro Relay 12v SPST 20 Amp
Prodigy Wire Harness to Vehicle Wire Harness
White Wire <---> Brown Wire
Black Wire <---> Red\Yellow
Blue Wire <---> Blue Wire
Red Wire to Pin 87 on your Relay (see below)
Relay Wiring:
Red\Black Wire from Vehicle Harness to Relay Pin 86
Red Wire from Tekonsha Wire Harness to Relay Pin 87
Vehicle Ground Wire to Relay Pin 85 (I used Tow Harness wire Brown for my ground)
Constant On (ignition enabled preferably) 12 volt source to Relay Pin 30 (I used Tow Harness wire Red\Yellow for my 12 volts)
Rock On my Brothers & Sisters!!!
__________________
John "JFScheck" Scheck
2020 30’ Airstream Classic
**I Love U.S.A.**
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03-15-2010, 12:02 AM
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#2
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Rivet Master
2020 30' Classic
Derwood
, Maryland
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,515
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Some pictures to help clear up a few things...
Some of the worst pictures I have ever taken - but I was in a hurry and promised a few of you some pictures showing my install on a 2010 "T-Rex & "Egg"
When I get a chance in the next 30 days I'll mark the pictures up to clear a few things and post as a new install cheat sheet...
BTW - it was five years ago today I posted my Cayenne S Brake Controller Install - Wow...
2010 Touareg TDI Brake Controller Harness Install
Here we are with a quick picture just showing everything "as from Germany" before we take out the panel to access our harness - note the diagnostic port on the left and the lower wheel well light on the right.
Violating the poor girl by removing her lower valance - note the diagnostic port blurred in the foreground - see any brake controller OEM harness? I sure don't as it isn't in the same place as was the last time I did this five years ago...
OH - here it is - way up in the top left and hidden behind that other big OEM bundle - I had to really search for it (thus why I'm sure folks are claiming they stopped installing the Brake Controller harnesses) - actually had to feel around for it - that is how well hidden it was! Here it is pulled for a photo op...
Now a picture of my harness completed and ready for install - note the switch for powering both the Prodigy & Relay with the 5 amp fuse inline (its the 12 volts goofy) and the Volkswagen\Audi\Porsche connector ready to plug into that OEM Brake Controller Harness that we just found. Oh - and YES I know I like the purple tie strips (didn't really need them as the cold fusion tape works great - but those strips are in strategic locations to reduce stress as well as keep the wrap on - just in case)...
So now I have connected our harness to the OEM Brake Controller (female with matching male) harness. You can also see where I placed the relay and now I just need to connect the switch to the lower valance panel.
Here is a nice picture after I mounted the toggle switch to the valance for the 12 volt power for the relay and Prodigy - you can see the relay sitting in its perch (with some blue loctite visible as well) and I'm now getting ready to place the Prodigy harness through the diagnostic port opening before I snap that back into place - don't forget your little wheel well light over in the right corner!
Everything back together now - just need to mount the Prodigy and then plug it into its harness sticking out as seen and we can start towing. So glad I put the switch in the circuit as suggested by my fellow "bros" to disable the relay and power to the Prodigy (The Prodigy goes to sleep on its own when not used - I don't think the relay needs to always be energized when not in use - so I remove the power to both devices when not towing...
__________________
John "JFScheck" Scheck
2020 30’ Airstream Classic
**I Love U.S.A.**
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04-04-2010, 08:05 PM
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#3
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Rivet Master
2020 30' Classic
Derwood
, Maryland
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,515
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Final Touareg P3 Install Image
And what good would I be if I didn't post final pics of the P3 as installed....
__________________
John "JFScheck" Scheck
2020 30’ Airstream Classic
**I Love U.S.A.**
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04-06-2010, 07:58 PM
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#4
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1 Rivet Member
Little Rock
, Arkansas
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 5
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TReg w/ tow packaging
Hey John. Nice pcitures! I have an '09 TReg TDI with tow package and am considering a 25' International FB.
Briefly, can you list what I will need?
Everything in your post is WAY above my head! :-)
Is there anything you would do differently?
No trouble towing and handing with the weight of the 25'?
Thanks,
Patrick
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04-06-2010, 09:53 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master
2020 30' Classic
Derwood
, Maryland
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,515
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Check out a thread we have going over here ---> Click Here <--- as I think it will be a good start for ya...
__________________
John "JFScheck" Scheck
2020 30’ Airstream Classic
**I Love U.S.A.**
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04-11-2010, 11:57 PM
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#6
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Rivet Master
2020 30' Classic
Derwood
, Maryland
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,515
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And for the person who asked for a picture with the brake pedal being used to trigger the trailer brakes (don't ask me why they asked) here is your pic...
__________________
John "JFScheck" Scheck
2020 30’ Airstream Classic
**I Love U.S.A.**
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05-18-2010, 09:04 PM
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#7
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Rivet Master
2020 30' Classic
Derwood
, Maryland
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,515
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Quick change to my instructions - swap out the 5 amp inline fuse with a 30 amp inline fuse - that's if you even use the inline fuse....
Otherwise this works GREAT!!!
__________________
John "JFScheck" Scheck
2020 30’ Airstream Classic
**I Love U.S.A.**
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01-22-2011, 04:53 PM
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#8
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2 Rivet Member
Evergreen
, Colorado
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 68
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Ok I may have done something stupid - not knowing that I was at the time. After getting my prodigy wired up, and even testing it at a local airstream dealer, I felt confident to drive to California and pick up an airstream for sale there. I hooked up, tested the lights and brakes etc, took the car up to 25 and set the voltage on the P3 with the manual lever. I then drove home from LA to Denver over a two day period and over mountain passes etc. I assumed the brake controller was working as I really didn't have an issue stopping though it took a little longer than usual. But I did notice when I depressed the brakes the readout never changed from 0.0. Reading the manual it only notes that the readout changes when you use the manual lever.
But looking at the pictures near the start of this thread - there is a readout of 3.3 with the brakes depressed. Was my P3 not working all the way from California?? It stayed at 0.0 the whole time.
If this is the case, I think I can look forward to an expensive Touareg brake job in the very near future. As a side note - my airstream is a 2008 23 ft international. Weighs 5000lbs. If the controller wasnt working, then the touareg brakes rock. Please let me know if you have any ideas what might be wrong?? The relay triggers fine when I depress the brakes.
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01-22-2011, 06:10 PM
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#9
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_
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, .
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,812
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the goal imo is 4 the trailer brakes to engage PRIOR to the tv brakes...
and with enough grab to maintain some INITIAL drag over the tv brakes.
that can be a challenge when using drums behind discs,
or when the trailer brakes are relatively LESS powerful than the tv brakes.
_______
so in order to achieve that objective,
it may b necessary to add a step or 2 , to the controller instructions...
-set the controller such that, manual engagement will LOCK UP the trailer brakes at 20-30 mph.
-repeat this a few times to be sure.
-using THAT set up, apply the tv brake pedal and look for lock up (skidding) in the trailer tires, again at 30 mph...
-UPadjust the controller till lock up happens.
-after finding that value, reliably, dial back some fraction to JUST under lock up.
_________
again if the tv brakes are massive or fade less or otherwise stronger than the trailer,
bad things can happen during sudden or panic stops while towing.
so achieve just a tiny bit of initial drag from the trailer and use it.
since drum brakes really should be inspected annually it may be less $$ to wear out shoes and replace them...
but the money issue is WAY secondary,
stopping with control is the prime directive.
_________
i don't own or use a prod' controller but there are at least 2 schools of thought related to the basic voltage/setup...
1. full voltage at ZERO, using the 'boost' setting to dial in final braking power....
2. progressive voltage setup such that full voltage only happens with MAX braking efforts (i think that's how this is phrased)
there are experts who will use each approach and provide rational 4 doing that.
__________
we have no way of knowing or telling you IF the trailer brakes were engaged, functioning or properly set up...
but it's unlikely they were totally inactive,
because even IF the tv had 10 brakes, the lack of some trailer braking would be obvious.
the issue now that it's home is getting the setup right and reliable.
cheers
2air'
__________________
all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.
we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
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01-22-2011, 08:04 PM
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#10
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Rivet Master
2020 30' Classic
Derwood
, Maryland
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,515
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You should see voltage applied when depressing the brake pedal - with the P3 and P2 controllers - the "faster" you are stopping (greater inertia) the higher the voltage applied to the trailer brakes (thus displayed on the controller) all the way to the max voltage you entered via the calibration process....
So - on the Touareg, my max voltage for my 25FB Airstream Classic with disc brakes is set as generally "loaded up for travel" at 6.7 volts - again, every time I take off with the trailer for the day (or if there is a weather change) I do the "30 mph lock the trailer brakes calibration", as per your Teknosh instructions - but generally it's always 6.7 volts, when the roads are wet it may be a bit less...
I also set the "B=Boost" setting a.k.a. "brake delay" on the P3 to "B2" - what this does is control how fast the brakes are applied in relation to the deceleration as perceived by the P3 controller - there was a similar setting on the P2.
So - at 6.7 volts - at a stand still, I think I'm reading somewhere around 1.x volts - only on one panic stop in downtown LA traffic did I ever see the max "6.7" volts displayed - usually coming down the mountains via I-70 in the Rockies (or the Appalachians, Sierra Nevada's, etc.) I'd hit 4.x as seen on the brake controller display.
YES - the Cayenne & Touareg brakes are PHENOMENAL (you should see me back when I would do laps with the Cayenne on the track when I wanted to "impress" my fellow track mates), sounds like you were towing with your "T-Rex" brakes only...
Take your tow vehicle and trailer to a large parking lot, and experiment a little - you will "know" when everything is working. When you have too much voltage set (trailer is locking up), not enough voltage set (trailer is pushing "through" the tow vehicle) and when the delay "Boost" setting is correct (you should not feel the trailer braking from soft to hard - proper "Boost" when dialed in will result in not even feeling the trailer back there when braking - this is after you have dialed in your "max" voltage). With the "B" setting properly set - everything will be almost "transparent" - the Tow Vehicle & Trailer "stopping as one unit" with the voltage as applied on the brake controller being your only indicator that something is going on behind you... Go do some testing as I suggest and it will all start to make sense.
__________________
John "JFScheck" Scheck
2020 30’ Airstream Classic
**I Love U.S.A.**
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01-22-2011, 10:51 PM
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#11
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2 Rivet Member
Evergreen
, Colorado
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 68
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Thanks for the replys. Yes it appears I was using just the T-Reg brakes the whole way. Wow - that is just scary. Also frustrating considering the time I put into figuring out and installing it in my '07.
Well - guess it's time to get the multimeter out and figure out whats wrong. I'm guessing it can only be two things. 1) the signal is not getting from the relay to the harness on the prodigy (most likely) or 2) the prodigy unit is faulty.
As the unit functions fine with the manual lever, and as I can hear the relay switch whenever I press the brake - then the issue has to be between the relay and the harness. Should be easy to determine with a meter.
JFScheck - thanks for the tips. That all makes sense, and I went though all of those steps. The only issue is not really knowing what I should be feeling. I know that as soon as it's working properly I will know- but having never pulled a trailer with brakes I just assumed that it was working and that I imagined I was feeling some slight pulling from the trailer in the parking lot where I tested it. I'm guessing when I get it fixed, and I dial it up past 8 or so for testing - I'm going to know when the trailer brakes kick in .
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01-22-2011, 11:55 PM
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#12
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Rivet Master
2020 30' Classic
Derwood
, Maryland
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,515
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Check how you wired up your relay, sounds like you have it engaging but the 12vdc is not reaching the Prodigy, remember, 12vdc goes to the brake controller, not ground...
__________________
John "JFScheck" Scheck
2020 30’ Airstream Classic
**I Love U.S.A.**
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01-23-2011, 02:50 PM
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#13
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2 Rivet Member
Evergreen
, Colorado
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 68
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Fixed! I had a bad connection for the +12V to the relay from the battery. Plugged it in to the trailer and it works perfectly. Relived, but now I'm going to be checking the touareg brake pads. Ahh well - got here safely. Thanks for the help!
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01-23-2011, 03:07 PM
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#14
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Rivet Master
2020 30' Classic
Derwood
, Maryland
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,515
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Great brakes...
Glad you got it fixed and it was an easy fix - don't worry about the brakes, you will get a check pads message and it will be squealing when they are shot.
__________________
John "JFScheck" Scheck
2020 30’ Airstream Classic
**I Love U.S.A.**
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04-08-2012, 10:48 AM
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#15
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New Member
Chicago
, Illinois
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 1
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Dumb question, do you put the switch between pin3 on the vehicle harness and pin 86 on the relay? Or between pin2 on the vehicle and pin 30 on the relay?
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04-08-2012, 01:58 PM
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#16
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Rivet Master
2020 30' Classic
Derwood
, Maryland
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,515
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Inline - between your instant 12 volt source (controlled by ignition key i what Zi used) and pin 30 of the relay.
The switch is not necessary, I thought it would be nice to deactivate the relay and brake controller when not in use...
__________________
John "JFScheck" Scheck
2020 30’ Airstream Classic
**I Love U.S.A.**
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02-16-2014, 10:47 PM
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#17
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2 Rivet Member
1998 25' Safari
Mascouche
, Quebec
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 47
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New question to an old thread but...
Is it possible that the computer of the Touareg (2010 tdi) is not sending the brake pedal signal to the brake controllerif the vehicule is not working?
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1998 Safari 25' SS
2015 Toyota Sequoia Limited
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02-17-2014, 08:02 AM
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#18
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Rivet Master
2020 30' Classic
Derwood
, Maryland
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,515
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Don't quite understand the question...
When the vehicle is powered off, the switched 12 volts de-energizes the brake controller and the relay thus zero power is available to the trailer brakes when the tow vehicle is turned off.
When the tow vehicle is powered on (regardless of the engine running or not - but the Ignition Switch is in the "On" position), the switch inline allows the powering of the relay and the brake controller, my ideal was to use the switch and turn off power to the relay and brake controller if I'm not towing...
Does this help?
__________________
John "JFScheck" Scheck
2020 30’ Airstream Classic
**I Love U.S.A.**
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02-17-2014, 08:17 AM
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#19
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2 Rivet Member
1998 25' Safari
Mascouche
, Quebec
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 47
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Yes and no!
I did exactly like you with the 12vdc relay, but there is no signal coming from the wire for the brake switch...
I understand that when the brake pedal is not depressed I should see 3-4 vdc and 12 vdc when depressed, but I always have zero volt...
The brake controller is on then part of my wiring look good, but there is no signal from the brake...
Is it possible that I need to have the engine running to have at least 3-4 vdc at that wire??
__________________
1998 Safari 25' SS
2015 Toyota Sequoia Limited
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02-18-2014, 07:50 PM
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#20
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2 Rivet Member
1998 25' Safari
Mascouche
, Quebec
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 47
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Hi Jeff, I think that my idea was lost in the translation...
I did more check tonight, I removed my connector to see if the car connector had the 3 volt and 12 volt depending of the brake pedal position. No power there... I also checked if there was a fuse related to this signal, no answer there...
Next step is to get the electrical schmetics to see from where this signal is coming and investigate why it is not working...
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1998 Safari 25' SS
2015 Toyota Sequoia Limited
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