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Old 07-03-2009, 10:27 AM   #85
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The Cayenne works extremely well for an SUV it was totally stable at 90 plus MPH with this 28' Safari. I wonder how fast the turbo would go? The 911 I don't think we could put a hitch on but a BMW M3 we can.
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Old 07-04-2009, 02:12 AM   #86
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Any thoughts on a 2007 Ford Explorer Sport Trac, V-6 engine produces 210 hp and 254 lb-ft torque. Has a Class III/IV hitch but don't believe it is weight-distributing. Is rated to pull 5,080 pounds. Thinking of buying a 19-foot Bambi. Can I do it?
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Old 07-04-2009, 06:20 AM   #87
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I believe the GVWR is 4500# for the Bambi. Close but....?

IMHO you would need a WD hitch w/ sway control with the short wheel base
T-V. You should check the ratings for the Expl also. I think you will have very little wiggle room when loaded to go, so proper set-up is most important.


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Old 07-05-2009, 07:29 AM   #88
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Hi David

The Sport Trac does not have a short wheelbase it is 130" long and the rear overhang is only 44" it also has independent rear suspension so the rear suspension stance is 50% wider than a live axle rear suspension. In an emergency maneuver the Sport Trac handles an Airstream consderably better than an F150 or a 250 for that matter, In fact with the 19' it could likely do an emergency lane change or slalom it would likely beat the larger trucks solo.

The tires could be improved a little but for a 19' it is just fine as built. You will have no power issues at all. If you really want a larger Airstream you can have one I have several customers towing new 25's and older 31's with this vehicle.

You do need a equalizing hitch and a sway control for any Airstream and tow vehicle combination.

I hope this helps.

Andy
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Old 07-06-2009, 08:55 AM   #89
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Any thoughts on a 2007 Ford Explorer Sport Trac, V-6 engine produces 210 hp and 254 lb-ft torque. Has a Class III/IV hitch but don't believe it is weight-distributing. Is rated to pull 5,080 pounds. Thinking of buying a 19-foot Bambi. Can I do it?
Actually the Honda Ridgeline is a bit more capable, 250hp. Ford specs say max trailor weight is 3500#, the Ridge is 5000#.
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Old 07-06-2009, 12:38 PM   #90
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No, actually, 2007 Ford Sport Trac V-6 specs GVWR trailer at 5,080 pounds. 7,160 w/ weight distribution device. But thanks, I'm o.k.
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Old 07-06-2009, 07:58 PM   #91
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One thing most people don't know about braking. It is better for the brakes to apply them rather sharply for a short period, than to gently ride the pedal for a longer period.

I don't mean you should throw your family thru the windshield. I mean if you are going down hill and the speed creeps up, apply the brakes hard enough to slow down by 20 or 30 MPH then let off for a while. This will cause less wear and will allow the brakes to cool. Riding the pedal will eventually overheat and burn out the best brakes. And you don't get much warning.

If you have to keep applying the brakes you should be in a lower gear. Or if this is impractical pull over for 15 or 20 minutes and let the brakes cool down.
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Old 08-02-2009, 08:43 PM   #92
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Imho

IMHO (in my humble opinion) I just read all the posts in this thread. First I saw some rigs that I personally would not ride in or drive. The AS completely overwhelmed the TV and to me would unsafe, period. One or two posts mention "trucks" vibrating and shaking rivets loose in the AS. All that vibration is associated with an improperly installed weight distribution and sway control hitch. I know from experience. To me safe towing is a product of a TV of appropriate wheelbase length and weight towing an appropriate size AS. My rig is Ford F-350 crew cab, long bead, diesel, straight gear pulling a 34ft. AS. The unit is close to 60 ft. long and is very stable on any road grade flat, up or down. We, my wife and I, were full timers for quite some time and I pulled this rig about 50,000 mi. in every state except Hawaii, all provinces of Canada and some of Mexico.


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Old 08-03-2009, 09:03 AM   #93
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I agree with jerrold the hitch adjustment makes a lot of difference. Once I got ours adjusted properly, the ride is a lot smoother.

How you drive makes a difference too. Bouncing over rough roads probably is the worst thing you can do. Sometimes bumps and holes come fast and no one could avoid them. When I can't avoid something like that I think of the poor trailer behind me that didn't ask for such treatment by the highway department. A couple of months ago as we traveled down the east side of Vail Pass, we came to the worst section of interstate we've ever seen. I could not avoid the long and deep gouges in the road. The left lane was full of traffic and I had to slow down and weave through the mess, but still got bounced around. They are repairing this road now.

Another thing that pops rivets is poor construction. I have one rivet that has popped twice. It's at the most severe part of a curve and I suspect it doesn't attach to anything underneath because it was put in the wrong place.

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Old 08-03-2009, 12:50 PM   #94
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I wonder, after reading all the way thru this thread, and seeing how many are towing much older trailers, that, when those trailers were new, the vehicle they are towing with now, outclasses in power, build quality, brakeing, etc, what was available in like 95% of contemporary vehicles.. and yet they all got towed fine.

For instance, we have '79 31footer.. in '79 my brother had a brand spankin new F150. A highly acceptable tow vehicle then, 351 (225hp), drum brakes, straight axle. But somehow, 30 years later, my '04 Expedition, with 5.4 (250hp), huge four wheel discs w/ABS, heavy duty tow package, traction and sway control, is some how "marginal" to tow my 31 footer.. I think, maybe, just maybe, some people are over reacting to what it takes to tow.. now, would I tow with a Jetta? Not even a Bambi. But it obviously can, and is bieng done. YMMV (mine does)

Just makes me wonder.
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Old 08-13-2009, 06:13 AM   #95
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I wonder, after reading all the way thru this thread, and seeing how many are towing much older trailers, that, when those trailers were new, the vehicle they are towing with now, outclasses in power, build quality, brakeing, etc, what was available in like 95% of contemporary vehicles.. and yet they all got towed fine.

For instance, we have '79 31footer.. in '79 my brother had a brand spankin new F150. A highly acceptable tow vehicle then, 351 (225hp), drum brakes, straight axle. But somehow, 30 years later, my '04 Expedition, with 5.4 (250hp), huge four wheel discs w/ABS, heavy duty tow package, traction and sway control, is some how "marginal" to tow my 31 footer.. I think, maybe, just maybe, some people are over reacting to what it takes to tow.. now, would I tow with a Jetta? Not even a Bambi. But it obviously can, and is bieng done. YMMV (mine does)

Just makes me wonder.
Perhaps there's some "oh boy, this lets me get a larger truck!!" feeling? Or perhaps the manufacturers are getting more and more conservative. It doesn't help that trailers have been getting heavier, too, I think.

My fiancee and I are talking about our next camper (to replace the B-van), and one of the ideas is a trailer. She was thinking a Saturn Vue to tow with, so I looked up towing capacities and the curb weights of trailers we'd be interested in and found no match. In fact, by the book, you'd need a 3/4 ton truck to tow a 7700# trailer (technically the 1/2 ton could handle the trailer, but I believe the towing capacity would be exceeded when you added supplies, clothes, etc.).

That Monte Carlo rig does look good, but it still makes me nervous. If a 3/4 ton pickup is overkill, I think a W-body is underkill. My '04 Impala has a towing capacity of only 1000 lbs or something, and it has unibody construction. And I wouldn't trust the transmission in those for towing a trailer. My primary concern is if things get ugly, the trailer will drag the car around like it's a toy. I saw someone post that they test that, but I'm curious how.
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Old 08-13-2009, 02:59 PM   #96
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I wonder, after reading all the way thru this thread, and seeing how many are towing much older trailers, that, when those trailers were new, the vehicle they are towing with now, outclasses in power, build quality, brakeing, etc, what was available in like 95% of contemporary vehicles.. and yet they all got towed fine.

For instance, we have '79 31footer.. in '79 my brother had a brand spankin new F150. A highly acceptable tow vehicle then, 351 (225hp), drum brakes, straight axle. But somehow, 30 years later, my '04 Expedition, with 5.4 (250hp), huge four wheel discs w/ABS, heavy duty tow package, traction and sway control, is some how "marginal" to tow my 31 footer.. I think, maybe, just maybe, some people are over reacting to what it takes to tow.. now, would I tow with a Jetta? Not even a Bambi. But it obviously can, and is bieng done. YMMV (mine does)

Just makes me wonder.
This was my point on the 1/2-ton modern versus 3/4-ton vintage thread. The Cairo to Capetown caravan 50 some odd years ago was accomplished using vehicles that are now at least 50 years old. My '66 Dodge D200 Camper Special (a 3/4-ton truck) has drum brakes all around, not disk. It has a straight front axle, not independent front suspension. It has non-power steering and brakes, rather than modern power steering and ABS. The rear end is not a "Sure Grip" (the Dodge version of posi-trac).

Yes, operating speeds are higher on today's roads. Yes, people drive in heavier traffic with smaller distances between vehicles. Somehow, though, people in the 50s and 60s managed to tow Airstreams all over the planet with vehicles made in the 50s and 60s. Most lived to tell the tale. I honestly think a vintage vehicle can safely serve as a tow vehicle for a vintage trailer... if the operator is willing to go slow and drive within the limitations of the vehicle.

If someone wants to tow a modern (read "heavy") Airstream at 70+ mph up and down any grade in the U.S. and not feel like they are towing something... a vintage or "marginal" tow vehicle isn't going to work. If, on the other hand, people are willing to drive 55 mph and enjoy the scenery, there are other options.
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Old 08-13-2009, 03:45 PM   #97
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I honestly think a vintage vehicle can safely serve as a tow vehicle for a vintage trailer... if the operator is willing to go slow and drive within the limitations of the vehicle.
If,[...] people are willing to drive 55 mph and enjoy the scenery, there are other options.
I think these are the key points. Many people are not willing or inclined to slow down and enjoy the view. Or if they do slow down, they want to choose to do it, not have their vehicle make them slow down.

I can sympathize. Most people's schedules are pretty stressed, and they don't value the time spent getting to a vacation destination, so they want it over with as soon as possible.

But for people with vintage vehicles, the journey is probably half the fun. So slowing down is not a big deal.
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Old 08-13-2009, 08:07 PM   #98
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I often read a couple of other RV forums (not a member), where the members regularly post pictures of horrific, and gory accidents, involving towed (not 5th. wheel) trailers.
Allmost without exception, the crashes involve a TT that weighs perhaps 1 1/2 >twice as much as the TV.
Yes, in the old days, my '57 Imperial,(with a 392 hemi), or the '62 Buick, or the '64 Olds, towed trailers, but they weighed almost twice the weight of the old trailers.
Just because you got 300+ hp, in a 4,000 lb. (or less), vehicle, does not make it safe to tow 7>8K trailers. If (when), the trailer decides to take charge, the lightweight TT is toast.

There is real physics involved, in regards to mass, and momentum.
The "low center of gravity", or "all disc brakes", or "wider suspension track", is'nt worth a ****, if something happens.
I know that there are those who make a living, setting people up to tow large heavy trailers, with lightweight vehicles, that does'nt make it right, or safe.

Just my opinion
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