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Old 01-31-2010, 06:42 PM   #15
CLOUDSPLITTER "Tahawas"
 
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Originally Posted by boutdoors View Post

And . . . can anyone explain brake assist for me.

Thanks.
Try these links for brake controller info..

The two I have used, Tekonsha and TruControl.

HowStuffWorks "How Brake Controllers Work"


Trailer Brake Controller Information

Trailer brake controller - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Have always had good luck with Reese towing equipment.

Trailer Hitches, Hitch Accessories, Hitch Wiring


HowStuffWorks "How Towing Weight Distribution Systems Work"
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Old 01-31-2010, 06:42 PM   #16
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hi bout'

welcome, yadda yadda.

it reads like u plan to do/try this regardless, so have at it.

from a $$ perspective it isn't a wise choice.

u need...

-a receiver for the truck AND a hitch (not the same thing)

-a brake controller for the truck, maybe mirrors?

-UPgraded brakes and bumper stops (tibren) according to your notes..

-how about a TRANNY cooler?

-are the tires P metric (probably underrated for towing) on the truck?

-does it have a WIRING harness for the 7 pin connector?

and so on....

it's likely u will spend 1-2k$ on the truck most of which isn't transferrable to the NEXT vehicle...

of course that's CASH probably, right?

and the 3500 lbs isn't REALLY the towing capacity...

>>subtract PAYLOAD in the truck (people, dogs, gear, options and the HITCH)

-conservatively that's 4-500 lbs? so now the towing capacity is 3,000 lbs...

and your anticipated LOAD is at/over 100% of the available capacity.

the safari sport BASE weight doesn't include ANY options (like an awning) OR lp gas (sorta useful) or WATER or personal gear...

while an a/s is nicely equipped there WILL be 'stuff' for camping right?

any toys? (bikes, grill, cooler, dog, canoe, lawn chairs and so on...)
_________

so while it's great the POWER issues doesn't really concern u and the focus is wisely on STOPPING and control...

is this really gonna work and will the money spent UPgrading a marginal truck be well spent?

it's not gonna eXPlode with towing but there are LOTS of inexpensive options for towing that sport...

options that would be LESS expensive overall and way more useful.

debating ratings/capacity/wear/useful enhancements may be irrelevant if the decision is to just...

give it a try.

best of luck with both the new trailer and the towing experience...

cheers
2air'

on edit, bob's link isn't working for me, here's a similar but shorter version...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/sear...archid=1692765

and other threads for insight OR confusion...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f400...oes-39712.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f463...cle-55778.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f463...ion-34782.html
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Old 01-31-2010, 06:43 PM   #17
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Is your Tacoma Standard shift? If so, I'll bet it has a small clutch.
I towed a 22 foot HiLow travel trailer with a 4 banger little pickup for about 10,000 miles. I put an oil cooler on the engine and an electric fuel pump because the weight caused the engine to vapor lock in the summer. I thought I was good to go because the HiLow was low profile even though it weighed as much as a regular trailer and I was bog slow up the hills.
To make a long story short, I needed a flywheel, clutch and pressure plate at 40,000 miles to the tune of $1,200. Suddenly an adequate tow vehicle became affordable. Go with a tent trailer or at least a 5000 gvw tow vehicle. It will save you $$ and aggravation.
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Old 02-01-2010, 08:53 AM   #18
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Thanks again to everyone for the advise.

To answer a few questions. . .

My truck has a manual transmission.

Here is the math I am coming up with.
Truck curb = 3500
Trailer curb = 2897
Passengers = 350
Cargo = 350 (40lb lp, 10gallons H20@8.35lb = 83.5lb, clothes/food/gear @ 226.5lb)
Total GCW = 7097
Total Trailer Weight = 3247 (92%)

Tacoma Max Trailer Weight = 3500
Tacoma GCWR = 7400

I know 92% is a bit above the 80-85% rule. I don't know maybe I am just an stubborn optimist.
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Old 02-01-2010, 09:12 AM   #19
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Thanks again to everyone for the advise.

I know 92% is a bit above the 80-85% rule.
These rules are based on tow ratings. Beware that these vague rules have little to nothing to do with how well your combination will handle (stability) or perform overall.
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Old 02-01-2010, 09:24 AM   #20
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Road Ruler,
Is that a vote of support or a warning?
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Old 02-01-2010, 09:58 AM   #21
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It is a vote for not using the tow rating as a basis for determining performance.

I can give you examples of tow vehicles that are towing at way over 100% of their tow rating and they perform great compared to some TV's that are towing at 50% of there tow rating which perform poorly.
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Old 02-01-2010, 09:59 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by boutdoors View Post
Road Ruler,
Is that a vote of support or a warning?
A little of each I believe...numbers are very subjective.

What works for me may be out of the question for others.

The only way you will know for SURE is try it.

Take seriously the recommendations of others who have experience towing with a similar rig, you may save some serious $.
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Old 02-01-2010, 11:53 AM   #23
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I have owned that little truck and they are a great utility machine for very light loads. But you will have to stick a bundle of money into it for this towing task, and then learn that it is completely inadequate from the get-go, and it will scare the h... out of you and anyone who is unfortunate enough to be with you. I can't imagine that tow rating unless it is to tow a hay wagon around the barnyard.
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Old 02-01-2010, 12:41 PM   #24
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Welcome to the most helpful folks on Earth.
I know from experience and it's been great.
Sounds like you are committed to using the Tacoma. It has a great engine and will pull a 3000 max! loaded trailer with ease but over that and you sacrafice the oompa to climb hills or pass safely. At 3500 lbs total you'll feel the difference, anything over that and you may be hating life in a pinch. As early adds showed you can tow an Airstream with a bicycle but do you want to?
Get a Reese hitch class 3 and a dual cam weight equilizer setup that can be transferred to another vehicle when you decide to change horses.
Happy hunting.
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Old 02-01-2010, 12:55 PM   #25
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I tried to use my V6 Nissan Xterra to pull my vintage (lighter) 27' Overlander. I didn't notice any problem, but continued to research the safety of it all. Though I *couldn't afford it*, I ended up with a larger SUV. So, the cost that I put into the Nissan to make it tow-worthy (hitch/receiver, wiring harness, 7-way connector, brake controller and tow mirrors) added to my cash out-lay. The new truck cost $7000 and now I feel comfortable that I will actually be able to stop the bus at 60mph, tooling down the interestate, if I need to. It wasn't worth me continuing on with the Nissa, only to find that I could have stopped. My payload/fir-kids are just too dear to me! I'm not in love with my big, new-to-me SUV, but I feel safe. (safer)

Another good point made above was the difficulty you're likely to encounter if you ever feel the need to pass someone!

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Old 02-01-2010, 01:35 PM   #26
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Find a Cat Scale and find out what your Tacoma really weighs with full tank of gas before you do any further calculations. My F150 weights were way off the generic listed weights..

- and another point is the 103.3 inch wheelbase if your unit is the standard cab. If a new vehicle is in store, the longer the wheel base they fewer gray hairs at the end of a towing session so that Xtracab Tacoma at 121.9 inch (with a 4-cylinder?) might be a wise option too...
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Old 02-01-2010, 01:40 PM   #27
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We have the extended cab with SR-5 package, which has upgraded tires (not necessarily a good thing as they are a little larger).
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Old 02-01-2010, 02:10 PM   #28
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Yes bouts, in your case a larger tire will be heavier (will take more power to turn...x4) and if a larger diameter will give you a less effective final drive ratio which for a 4cyl is not good. Also handling/stability "could be reduced" with the larger tires.

Is the Tacoma based on the 4 Runner?? If so you should read post #13 here written by a well known towing specialist..

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f463...ion-42259.html
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