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Old 03-24-2006, 09:37 AM   #29
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Sure why not, Stan & Merilyn as stated above if you would post what trailer model that you are looking at, that would be of great help for TV choice.
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Old 03-24-2006, 09:49 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Westfalia
Respectfully, this thread is NOT in an off topic forum, so can we bring it back on topic for the original poster?
I don't see how this has gotton away from the topic, except now.....
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Old 03-24-2006, 09:56 AM   #31
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Thumbs up You are absolutely right.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Westfalia
Respectfully, this thread is NOT in an off topic forum, so can we bring it back on topic for the original poster?
I would not recommend you have Andy Thompson do the towing setup on the new tow vehicle you finally decide to purchase because...


"Last year we set about 500 trailer and vehicle combinations and...... if it is not going to be right I don’t touch it......."


Remove not from the above quote by Andy Thompson...ahem

Excuse me for now, I am leaving to fuel my Suburban at the local airport with super high octane & must leave within the hour from Ohio if I am going to be in Orlando, Florida in three hours with my Airstream in tow....
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Old 03-24-2006, 09:57 AM   #32
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SUV for TOWING

Stan & Marilyn--You live in Colorado where they have mountains, so you need a real tow vehicle, to tow an A/S. I have towed A/S's with a variety of vans and Suburbans for 18-years and recommend a Suburban as follows: A/S up to 27' a 1/2 ton 5.7L or 5.3L, with a 4.10 rear. A/S over 27' a 3/4 ton 7.4L or 8.1L. with a 4.10 rear. The newer the Suburban, the better. Tow in Drive-3. You will like the 4.10 rear best. Forget the Tahoe, as it is next to impossible to find with a 4.10 rear, doesn't have enough room for your stuff, shorter wheel base tows poorer, price and mileage same as a Suburban--which is not as hard to park as you think. Forget about fuel mileage. The big costs are depreciation and maintenance. The difference in fuel costs among any vehicles that can tow an A/S are small, and the up front extra cost of a diesel plus higher maintenance cost will not give you any $ savings. When you get your A/S and tow vehicle together on the road, you'r going to love it.--Frank S
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Old 03-24-2006, 01:40 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Jarzabek
I bet the Intrepid has a supercharger w/ a nitrous oxide tank in the trunk...
He could kick your *ss in a trailer towing drag race

Wait a minute ....

They race lawnmowers & tractors why not race travel trailers
How is THIS on topic, or of any help to the original poster? I'm not going to nanny you guys as we are all big bigs, but racing lawnmowers is not of ANY help to the original poster. This is the end I will speak of this. I'm all for a little fun, but mostly when appropriate. I don't want to pull this off-topic, as you are now forcing me to do.
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Old 03-24-2006, 02:21 PM   #34
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Talking I think us "big bigs" have moved on ......

Quote:
Originally Posted by Westfalia
How is THIS on topic, or of any help to the original poster? I'm not going to nanny you guys as we are all big bigs, but racing lawnmowers is not of ANY help to the original poster. This is the end I will speak of this. I'm all for a little fun, but mostly when appropriate. I don't want to pull this off-topic, as you are now forcing me to do.
No one is forcing you to do anything...certainly not this big big!
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Old 06-17-2010, 03:55 PM   #35
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Tahoe towing

Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank S View Post
Stan & Marilyn--You live in Colorado where they have mountains, so you need a real tow vehicle, to tow an A/S. I have towed A/S's with a variety of vans and Suburbans for 18-years and recommend a Suburban as follows: A/S up to 27' a 1/2 ton 5.7L or 5.3L, with a 4.10 rear. A/S over 27' a 3/4 ton 7.4L or 8.1L. with a 4.10 rear. The newer the Suburban, the better. Tow in Drive-3. You will like the 4.10 rear best. Forget the Tahoe, as it is next to impossible to find with a 4.10 rear, doesn't have enough room for your stuff, shorter wheel base tows poorer, price and mileage same as a Suburban--which is not as hard to park as you think. Forget about fuel mileage. The big costs are depreciation and maintenance. The difference in fuel costs among any vehicles that can tow an A/S are small, and the up front extra cost of a diesel plus higher maintenance cost will not give you any $ savings. When you get your A/S and tow vehicle together on the road, you'r going to love it.--Frank S
OK,
I need info about towing but don't want to get into the argument, so please don't make me part of it. I have a 73 Overlander that I plan to tow with a 2003 Tahoe with a 5.7L engine and a tow package next week in southern Colorado and northern Arizona, am I going to be thrown around like a rag doll? I towed it 150 miles home last September with its old running gear and it did OK in southern New Mexico. I was driving 65 miles per hour and was not thrown around when large trucks passed me but I wasn't climbing or going down large mountings either. The AS is supposed to weigh about 4300 lbs and my Tahoe has a tow limit of 7400, am I in trouble?
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Old 06-20-2010, 07:09 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by cosmotini View Post
Here is a link to an article that does a very nice job of describing how to match a tow vehicle and trailer.

ON Edit: It doesn't address the wheelbase issue, however. There is a general guideline for recommended wheelbase for the length of the trailer. Something like 110" wheelbase for a 20' trailer and 4" for each additional foot. Anyone?, Anyone?.

Dennis
This seems a little extreme in the longer lengths. If I understand correctly you are saying that for a 34' trailer you would need a minimum wheel base of 110+14x4=166". After a quick search the only vehicles I see in that range are long bed crew cabs.

I would bet an extremely high percentage >95% of 34' trailers are towed with shorter wheelbase TV with out great problems. This is based only on my observation and not any real data.

What is the source or rational for the recommendation?
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Old 06-20-2010, 08:08 PM   #37
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There are many factors relating to a TV that influence stability. Wheelbase is just one factor and with the higher quality connection systems (ie Hensley etc) the wheelbase seems to be less and less important.
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Old 06-20-2010, 08:26 PM   #38
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I have two Suburbans, an 1989 4x4 and a 2004 2wd.
Both have small blocks in them with automatic and overdrive.
I have a 27' A/S and she pulls real well with the 4x4, stable and I have the super hitch with levelers and anti sway bars.
I just went 400 miles this last week over Snoqualmie pass in Washington.
The old 89, just purrs along, at the steepest part, of the pass, I just put on my four way blinkers and drop her into second gear and just cruise at about 40mph, it doesn't even overheat, great rig. Freeway speed on the flat, it maintains a clean 60-65 mph without breathing hard.....
The 2004 gets about 21 on the hwy without a trailer behind her the 89 gets about 15 without the trailer on the freeway.
When I tow with the 1989, I know it drops the mpg noticeably. Still cheaper than any hotel.
I only burn Chevron High test fuel....
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Old 06-20-2010, 08:35 PM   #39
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MarilynPerlm

We went through the process 2 air described. Picked the Trailer we wanted. Found a tow vehicle and then the hitch to wed them. Being methodical and addressing everything step by step is the only way to get to answers that make sense.

There is a wealth of great information on the airforum threads, just exercise caution becuase sometimes the information is perfect in some situations but not others. Be especially wary of stuff you read on tow capacity with an SUV. We had a raft of people (basically anyone not on airforums we asked) assured us all sorts of things that we are quite pleased we did not listen to.

We had some of the same issues as you, we wanted a "car" we could drive when needed but something that would more than adequately tow our new AS (not to mention the bigger one everyone keeps telling us we'll sooner or later end up with!). We settled on a Ford Expedition and are very pleased with it as both a car and tow vehicle. It has a lot of great features and drives well. Pricing, for what it offered, to us seemed excellent. We used a buying service that helped get us a great deal. We opted for an XLT with no options. At no options i've still been calling Captain Kirk and Dr. Spock with questions about all the gizmos. Good value, good tow capacity, really nice features, etc.

And the Expedition comes in a metallic silver that just looks ooooh gooood with an Airstream. Although i'm sure looking very cool on the road is not an issue to any of us!

If any of this is of interest be happy to give you more info.
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Old 06-20-2010, 08:59 PM   #40
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Looking cool, is still an issue with me.
I like 'cool' geezers.
Cool, starts on the inside though and I'm not talking about my A/S...
LOL..................
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Old 06-20-2010, 09:54 PM   #41
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hey kids this thread is 4+ years old...

and the OP posted once and hasn't been back to even READ on this site since march/2006
____________

jimbob bumped for who knows what reason,

but basically wants to know if the 2003 'hoe can tow a 73 o'lander.

short answer is yes.

and that process can be improved with attention to the TIRES on the 'hoe and o'...

the length2wheelbase issue has been addressed in dozens of threads.

keep in mind it's NOT a rule, rather just a range guide.

to be considered ALONG WITH all of the other static and dynamic variables.


cheers
2air'
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Old 06-08-2015, 02:03 PM   #42
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Hey guys,
We are getting great feedback on our post "SUV as TV" that we posted today. I am going to keep an eye on this post as well in case there is different information given so you may want to keep an eye on ours!

Good luck!
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