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Old 06-22-2005, 12:22 AM   #43
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clarification!?

John et al -

Were you talking about that kind of change for a complete ground up brake rebuild with new everything?? Hope so.

I was just wondering about new shoes/sensors and that level of work. That shouldn't run into that level of bucks... Or?

I mean, if you take care of your ride with any care ( pay attention to noises, rough behavior, poor handling, etc...) there is no reason for rotors to go bad so a basic brake job should get you back operating with not too much $ or hastle. Rememeber doing shoes myself on a honda accord years ago - seems I recall about $35/axle. That was before computer everything and ABS and all that.... I'll let the 'pros' do it nowadays.

Do have a brake question related to the above paragraph. When I use to do the Honda brakes and pushed the cylinders back into the calipers, the brake fluid came "back up" in the Master cylinder. The 2500 would be the same, right? I ask, since I noticed the last time the hood was up, that the MC was down on fluid a bit.... Just curious.

Just gearing up for the trip and all these 'little things' are looming large on the radar screen now.... Figures!

BTW - getting new rubber as the OEM tires have some sidewall cracking (at 39K) and I DO NOT want this to be an issue with 3 kids, on the side of the road, in BFE with 34 feet of AS on the back. Got a set of 4 at about $150 a tire at CostCo. Choice of Bridgestone ($103 tire) or Michillin ($133 or $147). Will look at tread patterns and decide there - all are E rated and will get the metal valve stems. Preferance? Why? Reasonable price in your opinion?

As usual, Thanks!

Axel
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Old 06-22-2005, 06:02 AM   #44
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axel

the costs involved above would be for turned rotors, rebuilt calipers, flushed fluid, and premium pucks. (i base all of this on the cost of just redoing my "other tow vehicle" a 3/4 ton diesel) i got lucky and had no need to replace the wheel sensors!

with modern abs trucks you absoulutley cannot push the fluid back into the master cyl, the crud in the system will destroy the abs valves in short order!

the only way to open the calipers is to open a bleeder and let the fluid out.

some brake shops use a rotor maching tool that bolts on in place of the caliper so removal is not needed, these can reduce the cost somewhat. but not many shops have them.

as for tires, if you can get a set of name brand skins for under 150 each you are doing good. i just got a set of good year wrangler at/d2's at sams for about 145 each. good tires so far, they track and tow very well imho.

one thing to look for in tires is a continuous ring of rubber on the outside edge, i belive this adds to stability when towing. my firestones had this and my goodyears do too.

at work, our light duty trucks have mostly mud rated tires, they tend to squirm around alot when the pavement is hot. they can be a handfull when towing, you will want to stay away from open tread designs for towing no matter how "cool" they look!

john
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Old 06-22-2005, 06:17 PM   #45
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Trans service update....

Hello all -

Took "Kelly" ( the Kelly green TW) in to get the trans serviced. Called all over for the complete trans flush - no one in this town has such a machine. So I got the 'regular' trans service and fluid change.

Fluid was normal in color, on odor and no seeming damage when I looked in the pan, at the bottom of the trans. All seems well. Just wanted to "fill in" all that have been so helpful, that's the latest.... There you go.

New tires are on the billet for tomorrow! BFG's or Michilins. CostCo has them in stock, and about $50 or $60 each, cheaper than any other place around. Will be sure to get the proper valve stems.

Then off we go on Saturday, first thing! Off to TX, then OK, MS, IL, IN and finally MI. Wish us luck!

Axel
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Old 06-22-2005, 08:49 PM   #46
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Towing thoughts

I've towed close to half a millioin miles in CHevy Suburbans over the past twenty years. I also stay in touch with a lot of others who do just about as much. Lessons learned the hard (and expensive) way:

1). NEVER tow in OD (4th) even in flat country. If you have a tranny temp gauge you'll see why. It will be 20-30 degree hotter , even in the flats. Get a transmission temp gauge and make sure the temp stays about 20 degrees less than the engine. You can get a Denali cluster on eBay for under $200 and it is plug and play, giving you the transmission temp in the lower LH corner. Sweet.

2). The mileage difference between the 6.0 and the 8.1is negligable, especially since you can use that 3.73 with the big block and the 6.0 struggles in the hills unless you go to 4.11.. I will not buy another small block to tow loads over 7500lbs ever again.

3). Use Synthetic fluids and change them regularly. It will lower your transmission temp 10 degrees.
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Old 06-22-2005, 09:14 PM   #47
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have a safe trip axel and let us all know how it goes!

john
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Old 06-22-2005, 10:48 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john hd
one thing to look for in tires is a continuous ring of rubber on the outside edge, i belive this adds to stability when towing. my firestones had this and my goodyears do too.

at work, our light duty trucks have mostly mud rated tires, they tend to squirm around alot when the pavement is hot. they can be a handfull when towing, you will want to stay away from open tread designs for towing no matter how "cool" they look!
john
John,
This is the first time I've seen a comment about 'continuous ring of rubber' on the outside edge. Makes sense!

I had to go outside to look and found mine had an open space every 2 inches for water to escape.

I'm planning to buy 2 tires soon which will mix ratings front & back. Will have higher rated LT tires on the back during tow season and rotate to front in off season. Will have to look at tread on Bridgestone tires.

Steve
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Old 06-23-2005, 11:30 AM   #49
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Titan

Just picked up a 2005 Nissan Titan with the full towing package. We'll see how it goes.
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Old 06-24-2005, 12:51 AM   #50
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BFG - Yikes that a day....

Hello all -

What a day I've had. had BFG Commercial T/A's mounted on the TV for a decent price - $113 out the door/ea. Driving home on the Interstate there was a 'not payin attention', nosepicker, whatever. Nearly caused a 6 vehicle pile up by swerving all over the road.... Slammed on the binders and TV was like on a greased platter. Squirmin, delayed reaction to input, horrible!!!! Nearly added me to the situation.

Turned right around and went back to CostCo and said get these OFF my truck now!!!! Didn't have a highway/tow type tire in the store so had the 'old ones' remounted and ordered Michilins that are supposed to be like the Firestone Steel-tec that were on there. Full refund BTW, and they gave me a rebate on the set I ordered for my trouble... VERY DECENT!

What I ordered is a 245 75R16 Michilin M/S tire. Any feed back on Michilins??? M/S vs others???

The BFG's were a NIGHTMARE!!!!! I checked inflation when I pulled over thinking there was a problem - nope. Just a VERY poor tread design. Sidewall felt like a bag of wet noodles! Having the 'old rubber' back I feel SO much more comfortable and relieved. IMO the BFG tier is something I will NEVER consider or allow on any vehicle I own again. Period. Feel luckt to have got away with my skin on this one. Dodged a bullet there....

Thoughts? Thanks all!

BTW, having "thread starting issues" again.... Voided 3 attempts for what reason..... "Similar to another thread you have started - please hodl for redirect..." Anyone else with this problem?

Ciao all!

Axel
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Old 06-24-2005, 01:14 AM   #51
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Oops, one more "Hitchin" question....

Forgot this one in the previous reply.

About the "overhitching" issue I seem to have, I have done the suggested searches and come up empty as to particular answers to my question - so here goes.

How do I 'soften up' the 1200lb bars on my Equal-I-zer hitch - specifically! Can't drop a chain link as I don't have chain links, do I put more tension on the bars? Less? AGH!!?!?!


Just to refresh - '01 2500 'Burb. 12K Equal-I-zer hitch head with 1200lb bars, '92 34' Classic. Consensus seems to be I am overhitched but can't put smaller bars on the 12K hitch head and going less on the head would seem to be foolish (not to mention expensive) as I would be into the 80% area. Solutions? Any?

Thanks to the hitchin guru's out there!

Axel
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Old 07-06-2005, 07:39 PM   #52
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Suburban/Yukon XL 2500 6.0 mpg

Greetings Axel!

Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverToy
Hello all -

What a day I've had. had BFG Commercial T/A's mounted on the TV for a decent price - $113 out the door/ea. Driving home on the Interstate there was a 'not payin attention', nosepicker, whatever. Nearly caused a 6 vehicle pile up by swerving all over the road.... Slammed on the binders and TV was like on a greased platter. Squirmin, delayed reaction to input, horrible!!!! Nearly added me to the situation.

Turned right around and went back to CostCo and said get these OFF my truck now!!!! Didn't have a highway/tow type tire in the store so had the 'old ones' remounted and ordered Michilins that are supposed to be like the Firestone Steel-tec that were on there. Full refund BTW, and they gave me a rebate on the set I ordered for my trouble... VERY DECENT!

What I ordered is a 245 75R16 Michilin M/S tire. Any feed back on Michilins??? M/S vs others???

The BFG's were a NIGHTMARE!!!!! I checked inflation when I pulled over thinking there was a problem - nope. Just a VERY poor tread design. Sidewall felt like a bag of wet noodles! Having the 'old rubber' back I feel SO much more comfortable and relieved. IMO the BFG tier is something I will NEVER consider or allow on any vehicle I own again. Period. Feel luckt to have got away with my skin on this one. Dodged a bullet there....

Thoughts? Thanks all!

BTW, having "thread starting issues" again.... Voided 3 attempts for what reason..... "Similar to another thread you have started - please hodl for redirect..." Anyone else with this problem?

Ciao all!

Axel
I suspect that you will be very pleased with the quality, durability, and handling characteristics of the Michelin LTX M/S tires. Last year this time, I had my second set installed on the Suburban -- the OEM Firestone tires were worn out at 39,000 miles -- my replacement Michelins lasted 88,000 miles (127,000 miles on truck) -- I currently have 22,000 miles on the replacement set (149,000 miles on truck) and couldn't be happier -- wear is imperceptible, and the highway handling with or without trailer is beyond reproach.

Good luck with your new Michelins!

Kevin
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Old 07-06-2005, 08:04 PM   #53
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You may or may not find this funny, but I towed the Safari about 3 or 4000 miles last year with the Impala SS and it has BFG Comp T/As....Z rated tires with 2300lb rated tires at 44PSI. Though the tires did a great job, they were the least of my worries.
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Old 07-11-2005, 06:55 PM   #54
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Suburban/Yukon XL 2500 6.0 mpg

Hi All,
I want to thank everyone that responded to my question for information on the 3/4 ton Suburban/ Yukon XL info. My local dealer was unable to locate one with the spec`s that I wanted so I chose to go with a 3/4 ton Crew Cab p/u with the Duramax / Allison combo.And so far I think I will be better pleased. I will report back later on after I put some miles on it . Davis
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Old 07-11-2005, 11:10 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davis
Hi All,
I want to thank everyone that responded to my question for information on the 3/4 ton Suburban/ Yukon XL info. My local dealer was unable to locate one with the spec`s that I wanted so I chose to go with a 3/4 ton Crew Cab p/u with the Duramax / Allison combo.And so far I think I will be better pleased. I will report back later on after I put some miles on it . Davis
Good for you. I got one of those myself a couple weeks ago. Almost missed out. I think I got the last crewcab duramax in New England. With the deals you have to go to the dealer that has what you want. There is no money in it for them to trade veh's between each other at these prices. Also tradein's are deeply discounted as well.

I got a black one with a regular bed. It's a 2500HD without those roof lights, no hitch so I got a 14,000 hidden hitch, and no assist step so I'll get the molding fiberglass type I have on the 97 K1500.
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Old 07-12-2005, 12:03 AM   #56
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Davis,
Good for you. You will love your Duramax/Allison combo. I have a 02 and I tow a 1999 34 Limited and a 74 Trade Wind. The power and economy are both great. I have 62k now and I have not had 1 service issue yet. We made a 8000 mile trip towing our 34 at 9500# and averaged 13.8 for the trip. This includes sight seeing miles. Your mpg will improve after about 20k. I use mine as an every day driver and it get about 15mpg. Hope yours works out as good as ours has.
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