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Old 06-19-2005, 08:59 PM   #15
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Axel,
On flat ground you can tow in OD with no problem. If you encounter hilly terrain and your transmission starts to hunt for gears or starts to shift to often you can lock out the OD. I also drive without the cruise control and back off the gas in hilly country and this will also prevent the transmission from shifting too much. The more it shifts the more the heat can build up hence shortening the tranny life. If you have a tow package and stay out of OD and adjust your speed to the the terrain you should be just fine.
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Old 06-20-2005, 12:51 AM   #16
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'Burb 2500 w/ Tow package Question

OK, saw the answers on the OD vs. no-OD towing but still have a question or 2.

Pulled SilverToy home to ABQ from SLC over some REALLY mountainous terrain. As mentioned in the Title, I have the '01 2500 'Burb with the full heavy duty factory tow package - 39K on the odo. SilverToy is a '92 34' Classic Lmtd. This was the first heavy tow for the vehicle and for me. When we were going uphill (25+ miles) with lots of 10 or 12% grades I noticed some hunting - even with the Tow/Haul engaged. BTW - What does T/H do exactly?? Dropped to 3 several stretches (as oposed to D) to keep her in the power.

Anyway, going uphill the trans temp did rise to the nearly 200degree (according to the factory gauge - no calibrated sensor) and I kept a REAL close watch on it. Without a trailer it has never been over about 150 or so.

Also, coming up the mountain to our abode is about a 1 mile trip with the average grade at about 14% - when I get on that road the temps will again be about 200 when I get to the top and back the rig in the drive. Noticed some pretty intense tranny smell a few trips back but nothing over 200 on the gauge. So now the question - did I hurt it? SLC trip, local, in general?

Naturally the smell indicates that it is NOT loving these intense pulls but it should be OK long run, right?? Should I do a tranny service - what exactly? - or just leave it as the manual (100k service?) and do as the service computer in the truck tell me?

Just curious as I am leaving to pull SilverToy back east to Michigan in about 6 days and now I am thinking ..... I know, bad combination! Anyway, let me know what you gentlemen and women? think. Thanks!!

Axel
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Old 06-20-2005, 06:39 AM   #17
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if you read your trucks manual carefully you will see two schedules for maintinance.

you will see the under the severe duty schedule you should change it every 50,000 miles.

when you get to your destination it would be a good idea to let the truck idle until the temp drops below 150 before backing it in. pushing something as heavy as a 34 footer in reverse generates a lot of heat. that is very tough on a already hot tranny.

i did not notice if you have 4 wheel drive, if you do, consider putting it into low range before backing in. low puts a lot less stress on the drive train.

if you have smelled the "hot tranny" smell changing your atf now would not be a bad idea, i just had mine done at a chevy dealer, 100 bucks total. cheap insurance.

john
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Old 06-20-2005, 07:37 AM   #18
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I have the vehicle you are considering and the tow rating I am not sure will work with 3.73s. Matter of fact, even with the 4.10s you are only at about 9900lbs with 2WD and 9600 w/ 4WD tow capacity. With the 3.73s according to the Chevy website, it's rated at 7900 for the 2WD and 7600 for the 4WD.

http://www.chevrolet.com/suburban/sp...ns/#trailering

Now I just saw a new 34' tri-axle this weekend at the midwest rally, though it has the upgraded axles now, I am **positive** that the 34' units, even from 1991 still weigh more than 7900lbs and think they even weigh more than 9000lbs, so clearly the 8.1L might be your ONLY option if you stick with a Suburban. Fuel economy I seen between 10.7mpg and 12.9mpg towing with the 6.0L 2500 4x4 Suburban. Around town not towing the same truck gets about 10mpg. I haven't taken it on the highway not towing, so I don't have info on that yet.

The Yukon will have nearly identical performace as the Chevy, if not identical.
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Old 06-20-2005, 07:37 AM   #19
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I change my trans fluid once per year - each fall. I think its a good idea to keep watch on it, when they change it they can look at the color - smell it etc and tell if you have overheated it.

All the tow/haul does is increase the time it takes between shifts so the transmission does not have to hunt as much....

If I were you I would go ahead and have the trans fluid changed - if it looks burn't at all - even if it didn't with the load your pulling - I would put synthetic in - it tolerates heat much much better

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Old 06-20-2005, 07:42 AM   #20
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I agree SilverToy....change the fluid now. Also do you have 4.10s or 3.73s? If you have 3.73s, that might be your problem, plus to be honest, a 34' coach with the 6.0L, even with 4.10s might not be such a hot idea...no pun intended.

Also see that you collect pinball machines....me too...I'm an avid mid to late 80's through mid 90's Williams Pinhead!
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Old 06-20-2005, 10:55 AM   #21
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Davis,


I have the Yukon Xl 2500 8.1 litre engine with 4.10. I use it everyday and for pulling our 2005 30' Classic. The tow mirrors that extend are great and make the towing experience much more comfortable.
I get around 12mph in the city and 15 on hwy. With the Airstream and the family loaded for trips, we get around 10mph.
Go on the internet and look for the car that you want, then have the dealer get it for you.

Good luck.
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Old 06-20-2005, 03:59 PM   #22
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Change it, but what....?

John HD, Ken J and all:

Saw the posts on getting the trans checked and fluid changed. Is that all there is to it - fluid swap? Seems to me I heard about a trans flush and filter blah, blah, blah. Tuned it all out at the time as it didn't apply. Now it does and I can't recall what they were hawking at the time.

BTW John HD - drive way is only about 45 long so not to much backing as I have got it 1st time, every time. That actually makes me think of an amusing story. Took ST to an Elks refuge ( not slamming Elks! or their refuges here!) and the "leader" directed me to a spot in an open field. I said, something with some shade?? Well, there is a spot over there but it's toooo tigiht for you to get this rig in. I said, no its not. Went over and checked it out, walked it off and checked clearances. By this time there was quite a crowd of Elks standing around to watch this "Kid" tear up his nice rig. Got in and backed her in the spot right straight on the concrete wheel pads, first time - dead balls perfect! I think I ruined the entertainment for a few guys that day.... So sorry - not! Appearances can be deceiving!?! Boys got skills!

Anyway, back to the point. What does a comrehensive trans service mean anyway? Have a tranny manual somewhere but you guys are faster than me finding that right now....

eric: my passion is early 80's Ballys. Current collection: Supersonic, Night Rider (SS) - sat for 20+ years in a garage, Black Hole (made one great machine out of 2 so-so ones) and my "on the way" one is Theatre of Magic (mid 90's).Actually owned ToM in Austria when we lived there. Nothing collector quality but they (first 3) are some of the machines I played at UIC (you should be able to see the campus from your window - Al's still there? Too bad about Maxwell Street aka Blues Brothers. Is Salvage One still there?) back in the days of college and freedom and.... ;>). I love em, my kids love to bang on em, and they are a GREAT stress relief when I need to get away without going anywhere. Looking for a Xenon and EightBallDeluxe!!!! with the bank shot, Paragon, Lost World, Space Invaders, if you know anyone!

Thanks again to all for the insights and wisdom. Appreciate it more than you can know!

Axel

Thanks all!

Axel
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Old 06-20-2005, 04:01 PM   #23
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Axel.
The tow/haul mode will make the transmission shift at a higher rpm to help keep you in the power band. The 200 degree temp won't hurt the transmission unless it is maintained for a long period of time and 200 still isn't that bad. If the fluid smells like it's burnt or appears to be burnt after it has cooled down have it replaced. It might be a good investment anyway because you are only 11,000 from scheduled maintainence. I don't think you did any damage.
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Old 06-20-2005, 04:06 PM   #24
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Quote:
Is that all there is to it - fluid swap?
umm no!

a good service of your trans would include a complete change of the fluid including the torque converter. something like 21 quarts for a 4L80. the filter would be changed, the pan cleaned, and the magnet in the pan would be "de fuzzed".

not much more than that, a new pan gasket would be included.

check with your chebby dealer and see what get for a price. i couldn't do mine myself for what the dealer charged me. nor would i want to!

john
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Old 06-20-2005, 04:31 PM   #25
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Chebby price....

John et al

Called the dealer and made Appt for Wed afternoon. 89 bucks plus misc.... will check that they do the detail things too! Thanks for that heads up! Will get oils changed while its there for that. Been using 10/30 even though recommended it 5/30. Should I go back to 5/30 or will I be setting up a possible valve blow by situation going back to 5/30? Thoughts?

Is the Synthetic trans fluid really all that much better, worth the extra $?

On another related thread. Been trying to get an answer to my question about "over hitching". Vehicle and trailer as previously mentioned. Have a 12K Equal-i-zer hitch with 1200lbs bars. Towed really nice but some of the reading on this site indicates I might be too high with the 1200 bars. Turns out Equal-i-zer hitch heads and bars are sized accordingly, so no 800 bars with a 12K hitch head. Options??? Do I even have any? Just asking as I have the 'rub' on the trailer when the rock skirts/aprons curve on the front of the trailer. Don't want to beat the poor thing to death but really can't get away from the 12K head, and no other bars work with it.... Sigh. Thoughts?

Axel
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Old 06-20-2005, 05:12 PM   #26
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Here is my take and it's my opinion.....others agree and other don't, in the end it's a personal call.

I have dyno in the Suburban for the break in period. Once that is done, I am going full synthetic as I did in the Impala SS. Fully synthetic oils take more abuse than conventional oils. Keep in mind though that even though the syn oils take more abuse, some of the drivetrain components won't take the heat or beatings the oil can. So you can have this bulletproof oil, but still melt your trans if you can't keep it cool as the bands, disc, clutch packs are starting to die after 215 degrees. Here is a breakdown on temps for the trans and what Amsoil state (in their own propaganda tools):

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/atf.aspx


In addition, once the break in is complete, I plan on adding a deep pan trans cover to the 4L80e trans when I do the basic fluid changes as well as a larger capacity diff cover from Mag-Hytec:

http://www.mag-hytec.com/

My goal is not to overcome long term heat, but to overcome some of the flash heat that happens. On the Impala when I did this, flash heat was kept to a bare min on mile long tows, fully loaded on a similar 14% climb. I was very pleased. I also plan on buying or fabricating a torque converter cover that has an air scoop kind of like this one that I found from Neal that made one for the 4L60e trans that I added to the Impala. You can see one here:

http://www.clearimageautomotive.com/...Drivetrain.htm

One more thing I'd consider if your vehicle is being put into a situation of being at or beyond where it should, would be to add a larger trans cooler. I've watched my in 80 degree outdoor temps and the trans does stay below 200, but it varies between 150 and 195ish. Comes back down, fairly quickly from 195, but I like 150-175 far better and with this possible mods, I think they will help as they did with my 5.7L Impala SS. I did a before and after on the same mountain drive, same distance, same car and Safari without the stated mods and with. The flash heat took me straight to 200 degrees before I got to the top of the mile long hill. After the mods (deep pan, diff cover (though not effecting trans temps), ram air torque converter cover, additional trans cooler, same mile long hill, same outdoor temps, same load, trans got up a bit above 175...maybe 180ish. So in the end I lost 10 to 20 degrees. I also forgot to mention that I put a 160 degree thermostat in and had the car re-programmed to run with the 160 stat...can do that on an LT1, but not on the LS1 based 6.0L (at least I think I can't...for now.....).
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Old 06-20-2005, 05:23 PM   #27
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Quote:
Been using 10/30 even though recommended it 5/30.
again, check your manual. if you look closely you will find a chart for oil. you can use 10w/30 for a certain temp range. something like 0 to 100 degrees. seeing that you are currently in new mexico i imagine you fall into that range.

chevrolet reccomends straight 30 wieght for high temps.

as for your WD bars, just lower your chain by a link and try it. don't sweat that too much. all you are doing is putting a little less preload on the bars.

john
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Old 06-20-2005, 05:28 PM   #28
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one other thing, you may want to consider changing your rear differential oil when you have your truck in for service.

it comes with synthetic oil from the factory.

john
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