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Old 08-22-2017, 10:40 PM   #1
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SRW 1 Ton vs 3/4 ton

OK this is not intended to be another thread about choosing a 1 ton or a 3/4 ton. This is a thread about what I already have, and how to best utilize it.

I like old cars and trucks. A lot. My Mercedes is 30 years old and my F-350 is 15 years old. When I was shopping for a truck about 7 years ago to replace my 1983 6.9 I knew I wanted a 7.3, because I knew the 7.3 was about the best diesel ever put into a pickup. I wanted one, and a good one, while I could still find one. I was more interested in a nice one be it a 250 or a 350, although I did not want a dually. I wanted a 99-03 long bed crew cab 4X4. At the time a travel trailer was not even on the horizon, although a cabover camper was.

Fast forward to now, looking at buying our AS. Been on the forum a while reading through all the posts with all the arguments and opinions, researching the different hitches, center of gravity etc etc. Some say the 1 ton is a poor choice unless heavily loaded, and will beat the trailer up.

So I decided to see what it would take to change it to a 3/4 ton. Did a lot of research (had to go backwards as all the info available on the web is how to go up to a 350, not down to a 250) and what I found, at least for the 99-03 single rear wheel, is I have nothing.

Seems when it comes to the SRW trucks the biggest difference is the spacer blocks on the rear axle and the badges on the fender. There is one overload spring that does not come into use unless heavily loaded on the 350, but it is also found on the 250s that were ordered with a camper package. The rear spring packs on both trucks are usually code B (the duallys had code C springs in the rear). The front springs on the 4X4 and the plow package trucks were mostly code X, (which mine are) so I suppose the V code springs would be a bit softer on the front. Basically they are very similar trucks and it would not be worthwhile to try and change what I have. I do like the fact that I will not be limited in payload because we do tend to take a lot of stuff. Between the camper shell and the tools I like to carry that alone is probably 500 lbs before even loading the big ice chest, bikes, extra drinking water and other beverages etc etc. I even carry a small floor jack!

So I will keep the 350 since I already have it and it is nearly pristine, not being a dually it is really just a glorified 250. Still deciding on the hitch though and strongly considering Airsafe for the ride with a decent equalizer setup.

Tossing around the Hensley design but that would rule out the Airsafe, at least the PP as Sean told me there is no adapter. He also said he didn't think the Airsafe would be necessary with the proper spring bar deflection on the hitch.

That's my story, comments welcome critical or not

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Old 08-23-2017, 05:34 AM   #2
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2012 19' International
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I have a 350, only tow a 19' (27' scheduled for delivery in a few weeks!). That extra spring has actually been under load a few times so it must be doing something. Maybe just leave yours in and see what happens?

The only time I noticed the ride on the trailer got rough (a few doors popped open, items fell out of the pantry, etc) was after switching to the 16' load range E Michelin tires. Keep in mind I'm in Michigan and have been on a few amazingly bad freeways. The truck itself wasn't really rough on the trailer til then. Your mileage may vary.

By the way, I usually carry a full size mechanic's jack in my truck. Never trusted the ones that come with the vehicle. But never needed to change a tire even on these roads. I like the heavy duty wheels and tires they put on big pickups.

2018 International Serenity 27' FB
Michelin 16 tires
Hensley Arrow hitch

Tow Vehicle: Ram Laramie 2500 crew cab, Cummins 6.7 Turbodiesel
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Old 08-23-2017, 10:52 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Countryboy59 View Post
I have a 350, only tow a 19' (27' scheduled for delivery in a few weeks!). That extra spring has actually been under load a few times so it must be doing something. Maybe just leave yours in and see what happens?

Yes that is exactly what I plan to do....nothing. Basically my post was to offer up the suggestion that the SRW 1 tons are a different animal than the dually 1 ton trucks. I just got carried away and made it too long for most to want to read and comment on. I should know better, I do not like to read long winded posts myself.
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Old 08-23-2017, 11:02 PM   #4
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Hey.. run whut ya brung... watch the results in the trailer.

I think the PP or HAHA are excellent hitch improvements for towing but can't fix a TV (tow vehicle) issue.. the trailer can sway if truck is "loose"... but not as bad as without.. IMHO

We do have the PP...and any hitch has issues... machines don't wear out all at once under normal use. If your truck is tight, great! Is your hitch up to the work?? I have seen more than one that moved under use,... just be aware..
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Old 08-24-2017, 12:57 PM   #5
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2017 30' Classic
Kalispell , Montana
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Last Truck First

Looks like you got what you need. Our combo works great, and no signs of trailer beat up. We probably carry under a ton of payload, with the cap/rack, tools, junk, etc, and then the tongue weight of the Classic, runs nice, lots of power to get up and go when you need it and keep up the speed on the hills. Love that PP.
James Mileur, HY80-2-Al,
2017 Classic Twin, 2016 RAM 3500 Megacab, ProPride hitch
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Old 08-24-2017, 12:59 PM   #6
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Depending on the amount of gear you have loaded at any one point, you can also tailor the tire pressure (down from the door placard) to suit the necessary load capacity. That should help ride a bit.

The spring talk also brings up a good point. Assuming a vehicle that is built stout enough and spans multiple configurations, carrying capacity is often a function of the specific springs, and to a lesser degree, rear axle ratios. Manufactures don't like to put in springs with more spring rate than necessary for the intended audience, as that directly impacts ride quality, for which just about every driver is critical of.

Many many options available in the aftermarket to increase stated carrying capacity (and in your case decrease if desired).
Boondocking option package:
'07 27FB Ocean Breeze "See Turtle", 3" lift
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Old 08-24-2017, 01:39 PM   #7
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I had this same decision to make and, after driving and studying both, I chose the 1 ton. I went as far as having a parts guy check the part numbers for the springs and they were the same with the exception of the overload springs, same differentials, same transmisons. I drove both on the same roads with the same tire pressure and could tell no difference. The price was within a few hundred dollars. The reason I went with the 1 ton was the fact that 8 out of 10 trailers in my neck of the woods are 5th wheels. Virtually all of them being towed by 1 tons. I figure down the road it will be easier to sell.
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Old 08-24-2017, 03:03 PM   #8
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I think that you are correct. The difference between a "big" F-250 and the F-350 is darn near noting at all.

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Old 08-24-2017, 08:36 PM   #9
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We upgraded from a '01 Dodge 2500 to a '15 Ram 3500 - and the 1 ton rides a *lot* smoother. But, as extra insurance, I installed a Class VI AirSafe combined with our 10,000lb Equal-i-zer WD/Anti-sway hitch. We haul a 27FB Classic (9k GVW) and I'm very please with the combo. Effortless and smooth towing for both TT and TV.
"Hot meals, cold beer, dry bed & flush toilet - everything I look for in a wilderness experience..."
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Old 08-24-2017, 09:10 PM   #10
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SRW 1 Ton vs 3/4 ton

Our last three TV's have been F350 Supercrew 6.7 TD long box srw.I can't imagine a better tow vehicle for us.Most buyers are not aware that a standard F250's payload is not much more than a F150.Ride quality of F250 and F150 is the same.Cost difference about $600 net.we also use a Airsafe hitch which makes for a smooth ride for us and our Airstream.
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Old 08-24-2017, 10:09 PM   #11
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My son inherited a 1990 25' Excella and I needed to get a TV. The best deal on the lot was a 4 year old 2001 F350 DRW Crew Cab 8 ft bed with the 7.3.

I admire newer trucks I see.

But I know that the one I got is the best vehicle for my son and his family because any diesel mechanic can work on it where ever they travel, and you can never have too much truck.
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Old 08-24-2017, 11:14 PM   #12
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We were towing or 27 FB with an 2001 Tundra and recently picked up a 1997 f350 crew long bed. Night and day. The F350 has been spectacular! Glad we found this great truck! 7.3 is a great motor too!
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Old 08-24-2017, 11:55 PM   #13
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2006 34' Classic S/O
Fort Worth , Texas
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Your 350 will be OK, but it sounds like you want your TT to ride easier? My recommendation would be a Hensley/ProPride with 1,000# bars if that is close to your tongue weight, otherwise, go with 1,400# bars. The closer your hitch weight is to the bar weights the better the TT will ride. But they can be adjusted to soften up the ride some. Because of front end sheet metal/battery box cracking on my Airstream, I installed an air ride system that I have been quite pleased with last nine towing years. Kelderman makes a good system for your truck. Although expensive, it really make the rig ride like a Rolls Royce. Also, solo ride is much improved too!
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Old 08-25-2017, 09:52 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Moflash View Post
....Most buyers are not aware that a standard F250's payload is not much more than a F150......

Ford plays the same "game" at the F-150 -> F-250 break as they do at the F-250 -> F-350 break. They have a "super F-150" that gives them bragging rights in their ad campaigns "truck can pull the planet Mars". They do the same thing at the top end of the 250 range. My guess is that it's for the same reason.

Bottom line is that the 150 / 250 / 350 designations are not clear cut. They have been blurred out a *lot* by this nonsense. There are some differences in what you *could* get on each (they lock out some packages). There are not as many absolute differences as there used to be.


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