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Old 06-28-2013, 11:45 AM   #29
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OK Don. Here goes. I will try to post photo's. The welded fitting is simply one half of a plumbing union to fit the hose threaded coupling.
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Old 06-28-2013, 02:00 PM   #30
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I built a slide by using 3/4" plywood, some 2X4 for framing, 1X2 for an edge on 3 sides to keep things from sliding off and 8 small non swivel casters from harbour freight. Total cost around $100. I installed the casters so they would track in the bed grooves to keep it lined up. I found 2 plastic tool boxes at Lowes that fit perfectly on each side behind the wheel wells. Only the space in front of the wheel wells was vacant. This home made slide worked very satisfactorily with my high top SnugTop shell.

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Old 07-01-2013, 06:13 AM   #31
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Cream Ridge , New Jersey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dstalzer View Post
I built a slide by using 3/4" plywood, some 2X4 for framing, 1X2 for an edge on 3 sides to keep things from sliding off and 8 small non swivel casters from harbour freight. Total cost around $100. I installed the casters so they would track in the bed grooves to keep it lined up. I found 2 plastic tool boxes at Lowes that fit perfectly on each side behind the wheel wells. Only the space in front of the wheel wells was vacant. This home made slide worked very satisfactorily with my high top SnugTop shell.

Dennis
What holds the front end down when the slide is fully extended?
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Old 07-02-2013, 09:21 AM   #32
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What holds the front end down

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Originally Posted by Joe Palmieri View Post
What holds the front end down when the slide is fully extended?
With the tail gate down, I roll it back until the second set of caster wheels are in the little dip in the top of the tail gate. This works as a stop to keep the slide from moving back and forth. The slid is about 2/3 of the way out of the bed of the truck, so anything on the front of it can be reached with little trouble. I have not had any trouble with it tipping. I do not put anything real heavy on the last couple feet near the tail gate. The truck I built this for was a 2007 F250SD Crew Cab short bed.

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Old 07-02-2013, 12:47 PM   #33
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Woodinville , Washington
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What Holds The Front Down

The simplest method is the one used by Bed Slide. Two small half-inch holes are drilled through the front vertical wall of the truck bed, which does not extend into the cab. A third hole is drilled down through the rear of the truck bed (not the tailgate). No bolts. Two pins extend from the bed slide frame horizontally through the forward holes keeping the bed slide front end from going up when bed is extended. The rear pin keeps the frame from moving backward or laterally. To remove the unit the slide is extended to rear-most stop, lifted over the stop and removed. The frame can then be lifted out the rear hole, slid back a bit so pins are out of front holes. To lift the frame out of the truck help is needed, either a second person or a forklift.
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Old 07-10-2013, 02:54 PM   #34
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I've had a Bedslide in the Dodge for the past 7 years. Fantastic! I built a short cabinet that bolts onto it, with compartments for all my "stuff". I have a 115 gallon auxillary tank in the front of the bed, but one that was made for a Toyota Tundra "baby truck" was exactly the right length.....
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Old 07-20-2013, 02:02 PM   #35
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The simplest method is the one used by Bed Slide. Two small half-inch holes are drilled through the front vertical wall of the truck bed, which does not extend into the cab. A third hole is drilled down through the rear of the truck bed (not the tailgate). No bolts. Two pins extend from the bed slide frame horizontally through the forward holes keeping the bed slide front end from going up when bed is extended. The rear pin keeps the frame from moving backward or laterally. To remove the unit the slide is extended to rear-most stop, lifted over the stop and removed. The frame can then be lifted out the rear hole, slid back a bit so pins are out of front holes. To lift the frame out of the truck help is needed, either a second person or a forklift.
If I understand you correctly, it looks like I would have to drill a couple of holes in the vertical front wall of the truck bed to attach the BedSlide frame.
I'm seriously considering a BedSlide brand for my truck. My problem is that I have an 8' bed and have a diesel fuel tank that is mounted next to that vertical wall across the width of the bed. I have enough room to use a Bed Slide that is made for the smaller 6.5' bed as I have about 7' of space left for the slide.

Are there any brands out there that have a different mounting system, ie., one that only bolts to the floor? Has BedSlide addressed this issue with an optional mount kit? Anyone know?
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Old 07-20-2013, 04:52 PM   #36
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Airperson here, We love our BedSlide. It is worth every penny we paid for it. It makes loading and unloading so easy. You would not believe the folks that have not seen one. It is a good conversation piece as well.
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Old 07-20-2013, 04:56 PM   #37
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Joe, How did you make the chair rack? We always feel the need to take extra chairs for folks and we have ended up using way to much space for them.
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Old 07-21-2013, 01:29 AM   #38
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Airperson here, We love our BedSlide. It is worth every penny we paid for it. It makes loading and unloading so easy. You would not believe the folks that have not seen one. It is a good conversation piece as well.

Does the frame on yours bolt only to the floor or also to the front vertical wall of the bed? If only to the floor, which model do you have?
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Old 07-21-2013, 06:30 AM   #39
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Does the frame on yours bolt only to the floor or also to the front vertical wall of the bed? If only to the floor, which model do you have?
Mine bolts to the floor with 4 3/8 bolts. Its been there for more than 3 years, and works fine. I also built a cabinet that bolts onto the Bedslide, with 6 bolts.
The model I have was made for a Toyota Tundra. It fit perfect in the space between my aux fuel tank and the tailgate.
It sure saves these old scrawny knees.
Larry
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Old 07-21-2013, 07:32 AM   #40
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Joe, How did you make the chair rack? We always feel the need to take extra chairs for folks and we have ended up using way to much space for them.
The bottom and back are made of 1/2" light weight plywood. The dividers are made of formed, 3/4" EMT electrical conduit captured at both ends with a 2X3 that is drilled, split in half lengthwise, through bolted then screwed to the plywood. Other spacers and blocking are 2X3 custom cut to fit the chairs. The chairs store vertically and are removable one at a time. They are held in place with light bungee cords. All materials are available at Home Depot. I know it is difficult to picture from this explanation. If you are still interested I could take a few photos and try to figure out how to post here. This rack has worked well for us so far. It is free standing across the front of the bed slide and I leave it in place for the duration of the camping season.
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Old 07-21-2013, 11:47 AM   #41
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Mine bolts to the floor with 4 3/8 bolts. Its been there for more than 3 years, and works fine. I also built a cabinet that bolts onto the Bedslide, with 6 bolts.
The model I have was made for a Toyota Tundra. It fit perfect in the space between my aux fuel tank and the tailgate.
It sure saves these old scrawny knees.
Larry

That's what I wanted to hear. One that bolts to the floor only. Thanks again Larry. I'm going to the BedSlide web site and see if I can download the installation instructions for all the different models that might work for me.
Ya, the crawling on hands and knees is becoming a thing of the past.
I want to do everything the easy way (smart way). Save the knees for stuff like walking.
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Old 07-21-2013, 01:01 PM   #42
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I did go to the BedSlide web site and downloaded the instruction sheet for one of their models. It shows that all holes are on the bottom part of the bed and not on the front wall of the bed. So I think I found what I'm looking for. There are probably other not so HD models that are mounted the same way. but I haven't searched that far yet.
Here is the instruction sheet link if anyone is interested:
http://c452191.r91.cf2.rackcdn.com/i...hd_install.pdf
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