Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 04-01-2014, 11:59 PM   #491
4 Rivet Member
 
SSquared's Avatar
 
2013 25' FB Flying Cloud
Longmont , Colorado
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 495
Two observations on FastEddieB's rig

FastEddieB,

I also have an EAZLift Elite hitch with Husky friction bars. This is my second WDH, because the first did not give us good results. The second hitch was installed by Can-Am, using my pre-existing shank. Andy T's crew drilled a new hole in the shank, 3 1/4 inches from the original, and cut a couple inches off the back end. Since I was changing the hitch at the same time, I can't say that I noticed any difference in the way the rig handled. But obviously Andy T. thinks it matters.

Second, one thing took me by surprise. When making a tight U turn (going forward), the forward socket of the friction bar gets pinched (and bent) against the coupler of my AS. That's my limit on tight turning, not bumping the corner of the trailer with the corner of my tow vehicle. I suggest you try a U turn or complete 360 with someone watching closely to see what your turning limit is. I think you have a shorter turning circle on your Flex than I have on my TV, and you may have to learn to moderate your turns.
__________________

__________________
SSquared is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2014, 05:50 AM   #492
Rivet Master
 
m.hony's Avatar
 
2013 30' Classic
Greenwood , Mississippi
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 11,828
With one sway control, usually on the right or curb side, you can make a slightly tighter left turn than right turn.
__________________

__________________
2013 Classic 30 Limited
2007 Silver Toyota Tundra Crew Max Limited 5.7 iForce
2006 Vivid Black Harley-Davidson Road King Classic
1999 Black Nissan Pathfinder LE
TAC #MS-10
WBCCI #1811, Region 6, Unit 56
Airforums #70955
m.hony is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2014, 06:54 AM   #493
3 Rivet Member
 
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Mineral Bluff , Georgia
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 130
Thanks!

When I had to choose left or right for the sway control mounting, it seemed like a toss up and I went with right for no particular reason I can recall.

But if "pinching" is ever a factor, it seems like the right side would be preferred.

Why? Well, the vast majority of tight U-turns are going to be to the left, where the sway control is extended rather than compressed.

But if we do shorten the hitch, I will definitely be cognizant of the potential hazard in hard right turns until we head out to a parking lot to play around.

If it's an issue, I have a tarp bungee in place which could easily support the sway control if I need to jump out and disconnect one end leaving the other in place.

Thanks again.
__________________
FastEddieB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2014, 07:12 AM   #494
Rivet Master
 
Currently Looking...
Nowhere , Somewhere
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,421
Blog Entries: 2
For backing, releasing the sway may be necessary, and is easy to do. Jim
__________________
avionstream is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2014, 07:13 AM   #495
Rivet Master
 
MrUKToad's Avatar

 
2011 28' International
Chatham , Ontario
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,372
Images: 17
Blog Entries: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by FastEddieB View Post
Thanks!

When I had to choose left or right for the sway control mounting, it seemed like a toss up and I went with right for no particular reason I can recall.

But if "pinching" is ever a factor, it seems like the right side would be preferred.

Why? Well, the vast majority of tight U-turns are going to be to the left, where the sway control is extended rather than compressed.

But if we do shorten the hitch, I will definitely be cognizant of the potential hazard in hard right turns until we head out to a parking lot to play around.

If it's an issue, I have a tarp bungee in place which could easily support the sway control if I need to jump out and disconnect one end leaving the other in place.

Thanks again.
Following an unfortunate late night incident involving a tight backing up manouevre, an umbilical cord connector and a friction anti-sway bar, I tend to remove the bars before backing into a tight space these days. It only takes a few seconds so it's no big deal, and it allows a slightly tighter turn.
__________________
Steve; also known as Mr UK Toad

"You can't tow that with that!"

http://toadsoftowedhaul.com
MrUKToad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2014, 07:38 AM   #496
Rivet Master
 
m.hony's Avatar
 
2013 30' Classic
Greenwood , Mississippi
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 11,828
What he said.
Just remove it before backing in to a camp site or backing in at home.
Another reason I like my Equal-i-zer...
__________________
2013 Classic 30 Limited
2007 Silver Toyota Tundra Crew Max Limited 5.7 iForce
2006 Vivid Black Harley-Davidson Road King Classic
1999 Black Nissan Pathfinder LE
TAC #MS-10
WBCCI #1811, Region 6, Unit 56
Airforums #70955
m.hony is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2014, 04:30 PM   #497
3 Rivet Member
 
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Mineral Bluff , Georgia
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 130
Played around just a bit this afternoon, kinda quick and dirty.

I pushed the hitch in all the way and scored where the new hole will go. Probably get it drilled tomorrow. Several inches of clearance remain for the rear hatch.

Measured the bumper height of the Flex, with just a few tools in the back:

Rear: 24 3/8"
Front: 22 3/8"

Hooked up the trailer with the two links hanging.

Remeasured:

Rear: 22 3/4" (1.625" drop)
Front: 22 3/4" (.375" raise)

So that confirms the visible sag seen in the photos.

Tried shortening the chains one link:



Remeasured:

Rear: 23 1/2" (.875" drop)
Front: 22 1/4" (.125" drop)

Car looked a lot flatter than before:



If you look at the level on the tongue, the trailer seems very close to level - maybe a tiny bit nose up.

Note, there was about a 1/2" drop in height from the hangar to the asphalt. Doesn't seem like that should make a huge difference.

Did not change the tilt. It looks fairly straightforward to do so:



That arrangement with the adjusting wheel looks different from the setup shown in the EAZ-Lift installation manual.

Anyway, am I on the right track?
__________________
FastEddieB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2014, 05:01 PM   #498
TahoeStream'n
 
subfan1's Avatar
 
2012 20' Flying Cloud
La Habra , California
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 831
Images: 3
If you can tilt the head, I would do that instead of tighting the chains because you want the bars to flex some so the combination won't ride stiff. If you can lower the ball to the next hole, you might be able to level the trailer or nose down as was suggested earlier.
Good luck and then go weigh the combination.
__________________
subfan1 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2014, 05:12 PM   #499
Rivet Master
 
ALANSD's Avatar

 
1966 26' Overlander
Woodstock , Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 8,462
I angled my hitch ball back one more spacer after last weekends experience.The sway bar arrived today, I just have to drill the holes. Two of the hole from the old Reese set up align thankfully.
Been shopping tires, trying to decide which to buy. Goodyear and I have never been friends but I am open to the one Andy T mentioned.
__________________
1966 Overlander
AIR #005
Please visit our blogs and web pages:
OUR AIRSTREAM PASSION! BLOG
RESTORING AN AIRSTREAM
Our AIRSTREAM and TIN CAN TOURIST Rallys
ALANSD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2014, 05:37 PM   #500
'06 75th Winick Prototype
 
2006 19' International CCD
1968 22' Safari
The Swamps of Hell , Lousy-Anna
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 205
Quote:
Originally Posted by FastEddieB View Post
Played around just a bit this afternoon, kinda quick and dirty.

I pushed the hitch in all the way and scored where the new hole will go. Probably get it drilled tomorrow. Several inches of clearance remain for the rear hatch.

Measured the bumper height of the Flex, with just a few tools in the back:

Rear: 24 3/8"
Front: 22 3/8"

Hooked up the trailer with the two links hanging.

Remeasured:

Rear: 22 3/4" (1.625" drop)
Front: 22 3/4" (.375" raise)

So that confirms the visible sag seen in the photos.

Tried shortening the chains one link:



Remeasured:

Rear: 23 1/2" (.875" drop)
Front: 22 1/4" (.125" drop)

Car looked a lot flatter than before:



If you look at the level on the tongue, the trailer seems very close to level - maybe a tiny bit nose up.

Note, there was about a 1/2" drop in height from the hangar to the asphalt. Doesn't seem like that should make a huge difference.

Did not change the tilt. It looks fairly straightforward to do so:



That arrangement with the adjusting wheel looks different from the setup shown in the EAZ-Lift installation manual.

Anyway, am I on the right track?
You are on the right track, and I realize you are playing around with it right now and that is how you learn.

***It is of utmost importance that you do all your set-up and measuring on the flattest ground possible. Otherwise, there really is no point...you have to eliminate the variables as much as you can.***

Again, I would have started by lowering the head on the shank and angling it back a little. You do NOT want the trailer high in the front; that is what can cause a deadly sway situation. Anything you do to lift weight off of the rear of the car to the front is going to RAISE the front of the trailer.

Don't be afraid to measure the ground-to-trailer frame at the front and back as well; this will give you a good idea of how level the trailer is. On the Airstream I measure from the ground to the top of the A-frame hitch in the front and from the ground to the top of the frame leading to the bumper in the rear. Eyes can be deceiving. Under no circumstances do you want the front of the trailer higher than the rear.

In the end, you want your spring bars as level as possible to your A-frame; this is what tilting the head does. When you have the right ultimate combo, you will have a nearly level drop on all axles of the car and the trailer will be level (or a TINY amount nose-down) with the spring bars being very close to level with the A-frame.

It's all trial and error...you've gotta keep taking it apart until it's right. But no matter what, you have to lower the shank one hole and make up for it with angling the head and adjusting the chains accordingly.

It WILL be worth it.
__________________
ggoat!!! is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2014, 07:31 PM   #501
3 Rivet Member
 
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Mineral Bluff , Georgia
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 130
OK. I think I’m making progress…

Picked up the hitch from the shop with the new hole drilled.

Dismantled the hitch, inverted the shank and remounted it using holes to lower it. That moved it down from 18 1/4” to 16 1/2”. I also increased the rearward tilt from 4º to 8.5º.

Handy that I have a propeller pitch setting device that worked well here:



I first tried two links hanging, which took a lot of effort. It looked like this:



With them in place, the Flex measured:

22” F
23 3/4” R

And the trailer seemed almost perfectly level.

I then tried just one link hanging. It looked like this:



Much less stress on the chains, and the Flex measured:

22 3/8” F
23” R

And the trailer was about 1º nose down.

I feel like I’m on the right track, and need to drive the rig to test it before making any more changes.

Thoughts?
__________________
FastEddieB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2014, 08:18 PM   #502
Prairie Schooner II
 
Jim Flower's Avatar

 
2012 30' International
1997 25' Safari
1967 20' Globetrotter
Burlington , Ontario
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,182
2 links hanging gives you the closest to the unloaded delta on your fender measurements which is really good. Yes, it requires some effort on the lift, but you want the bars to do their job, which is to transfer weight to your front axel. Give it a go. I think you will be pleased. Jim
__________________
Jim
Jim Flower is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2014, 09:10 PM   #503
Rivets?
 
nvestysly's Avatar

 
1992 29' Excella
2010 22' Interstate
Van By The River , Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,522
Quote:
Originally Posted by FastEddieB View Post


I first tried two links hanging, which took a lot of effort.


Use the tongue jack to temporarily raise the front of the trailer and the rear of your car. No need to go too high but if you raise it an inch or two you'll find the weight distribution bars are much easier to pull up. After you've pulled up the chains then release the tongue jack.
__________________
Lucius and Danielle
1992 29' Excella Classic
1996 GMC Suburban C2500 7.4L
2005 Chevrolet Suburban K2500 8.1L
Got a cooped-up feeling, gotta get out of town, got those Airstream campin' blues...
nvestysly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2014, 12:59 AM   #504
'06 75th Winick Prototype
 
2006 19' International CCD
1968 22' Safari
The Swamps of Hell , Lousy-Anna
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 205
Quote:
Originally Posted by FastEddieB View Post
OK. I think I’m making progress…

Picked up the hitch from the shop with the new hole drilled.

Dismantled the hitch, inverted the shank and remounted it using holes to lower it. That moved it down from 18 1/4” to 16 1/2”. I also increased the rearward tilt from 4º to 8.5º.

Handy that I have a propeller pitch setting device that worked well here:



I first tried two links hanging, which took a lot of effort. It looked like this:



With them in place, the Flex measured:

22” F
23 3/4” R

And the trailer seemed almost perfectly level.

I then tried just one link hanging. It looked like this:



Much less stress on the chains, and the Flex measured:

22 3/8” F
23” R

And the trailer was about 1º nose down.

I feel like I’m on the right track, and need to drive the rig to test it before making any more changes.

Thoughts?
You are definitely getting this. Everyone else is giving good advice, too...DEFINITELY use the jack to raise the car/trailer when chaining up the bars; with my Husky Centerline, there is NO way to hitch up properly without using the jack to raise both VERY high. Such is the nature of the beast.

Your first example with 2 chains is VERY close, and may be as close as you will be able to get it...remember, your goal is that both front and rear axles lower the same...but you are within 1/4" of that, and the front is going DOWN and not up...a very good sign.

Please make sure your tire pressures are all at their maximum cold, especially the trailer when you do all these measurements. A few pounds low will throw all of your measurements off at least 1/4". Gotta make sure you start with your variables minimized...very flat ground with no "humps" or changes in pavement; it is impossible to do these measurements properly if one axle on the trailer or car is 1" higher than another as that makes all your angles and heights completely moot. And again, be sure all tire pressures at their cold maximums. Only with a good baseline can you get the hitch set up right. Eliminate those variables...especially the level ground for all axles and maximum cold tire pressures.

Great job so far!
__________________

__________________
ggoat!!! is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:38 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.