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Old 04-04-2014, 06:31 PM   #501
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OK. I think I’m making progress…

Picked up the hitch from the shop with the new hole drilled.

Dismantled the hitch, inverted the shank and remounted it using holes to lower it. That moved it down from 18 1/4” to 16 1/2”. I also increased the rearward tilt from 4ş to 8.5ş.

Handy that I have a propeller pitch setting device that worked well here:



I first tried two links hanging, which took a lot of effort. It looked like this:



With them in place, the Flex measured:

22” F
23 3/4” R

And the trailer seemed almost perfectly level.

I then tried just one link hanging. It looked like this:



Much less stress on the chains, and the Flex measured:

22 3/8” F
23” R

And the trailer was about 1ş nose down.

I feel like I’m on the right track, and need to drive the rig to test it before making any more changes.

Thoughts?
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Old 04-04-2014, 07:18 PM   #502
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2 links hanging gives you the closest to the unloaded delta on your fender measurements which is really good. Yes, it requires some effort on the lift, but you want the bars to do their job, which is to transfer weight to your front axel. Give it a go. I think you will be pleased. Jim
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Old 04-04-2014, 08:10 PM   #503
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FastEddieB View Post


I first tried two links hanging, which took a lot of effort.


Use the tongue jack to temporarily raise the front of the trailer and the rear of your car. No need to go too high but if you raise it an inch or two you'll find the weight distribution bars are much easier to pull up. After you've pulled up the chains then release the tongue jack.
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Old 04-04-2014, 11:59 PM   #504
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FastEddieB View Post
OK. I think I’m making progress…

Picked up the hitch from the shop with the new hole drilled.

Dismantled the hitch, inverted the shank and remounted it using holes to lower it. That moved it down from 18 1/4” to 16 1/2”. I also increased the rearward tilt from 4ş to 8.5ş.

Handy that I have a propeller pitch setting device that worked well here:



I first tried two links hanging, which took a lot of effort. It looked like this:



With them in place, the Flex measured:

22” F
23 3/4” R

And the trailer seemed almost perfectly level.

I then tried just one link hanging. It looked like this:



Much less stress on the chains, and the Flex measured:

22 3/8” F
23” R

And the trailer was about 1ş nose down.

I feel like I’m on the right track, and need to drive the rig to test it before making any more changes.

Thoughts?
You are definitely getting this. Everyone else is giving good advice, too...DEFINITELY use the jack to raise the car/trailer when chaining up the bars; with my Husky Centerline, there is NO way to hitch up properly without using the jack to raise both VERY high. Such is the nature of the beast.

Your first example with 2 chains is VERY close, and may be as close as you will be able to get it...remember, your goal is that both front and rear axles lower the same...but you are within 1/4" of that, and the front is going DOWN and not up...a very good sign.

Please make sure your tire pressures are all at their maximum cold, especially the trailer when you do all these measurements. A few pounds low will throw all of your measurements off at least 1/4". Gotta make sure you start with your variables minimized...very flat ground with no "humps" or changes in pavement; it is impossible to do these measurements properly if one axle on the trailer or car is 1" higher than another as that makes all your angles and heights completely moot. And again, be sure all tire pressures at their cold maximums. Only with a good baseline can you get the hitch set up right. Eliminate those variables...especially the level ground for all axles and maximum cold tire pressures.

Great job so far!
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Old 04-05-2014, 05:29 AM   #505
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Working on trailer tv setup is fun----good for the soul. I found it gave me a greater appreciation of the mechanics and theory behind rving. Hands on like you are doing will give you greater insight into why so many of us do what we do---camp! Good luck, just do not overthink! Lots of excellent advice here from others. Love your new trailer, almost bought one of their truck campers. Jim
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Old 04-05-2014, 07:19 AM   #506
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Thank you all so much!

I was raising the back of the car/front of the trailer with the tongue jack to get the chains in place.

Had been going about 30 turns of the jack. With the head tilted went 40 turns.

Helped, but seemed to reach a geometric point of diminishing returns, where cranking it even higher seemed to have little or no effect. At least I'm getting an upper body workout!

Heading to the airport for a short lunch flight in a while. Afterwards, may try towing with the two hanging links and see how it feels. Maybe get it out on more level ground and remeasure.

And again, to everyone providing advice, lunch on us a El Rio in Copperhill, TN any time you want!
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Old 04-05-2014, 03:16 PM   #507
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I screwed in two of the self tapping bolts for my sway bar, and they broke off. Nice huh? On my way to buy some higher quality bolts.
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Old 04-05-2014, 03:40 PM   #508
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Hi Alan. Airstreams have thicker frames than other trailers. You need to ream the holes a little.
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Old 04-05-2014, 03:43 PM   #509
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALANSD View Post
I screwed in two of the self tapping bolts for my sway bar, and they broke off. Nice huh? On my way to buy some higher quality bolts.


That's why I use the Husky Centerline lol...j/k.


The Centerline is like an updated improved Equalizer with nearly no noise and with anti-sway compression cylinders that actually work (i.e., the hitch doesn't work completely on friction like an Equalizer-but it does that TOO).


No cams to adjust, no bolts to break off, no risk of damage from too-tight turns.


The only problem with the Husky Centerline is the size, heft, and sheer weight of the head; it is literally HUGE and weighs an unbelievable amount; I need help lifting it into position and I bought it when I was 37; that's the only drawback I can see to it. It is an effortless hitch which has modernized the Equalizer...including a great wrinkle finish that doesn't turn to a white chalk encrusted rusty mess.


But anyhoo...back to the regular program already in progress!


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Old 04-05-2014, 05:47 PM   #510
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Must be a 6.2 liter diesel, gm made there first diesel 5.7 liter in late 70s a converted 5.7 Olds gas engine then came the 6.2 liter in I think early 80s then the 6.5 l. Up to today
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Old 04-05-2014, 07:10 PM   #511
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It has been 6.6 liters for at least the past 10 years- Duramax 6.6 L with Allison transmission.
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Old 04-05-2014, 09:28 PM   #512
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Are the last two posts out of place? I don't see how they relate? Maybe I'm missing something...
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Old 04-05-2014, 09:42 PM   #513
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I just checked, no full moon?
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Old 04-06-2014, 05:08 AM   #514
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The other disadvantage with the Center Line hitch is that it forces the ball to be well behind the bumper adding a substantial amount of rear overhang. I did modify one once to change the ball position while keeping the other features of the hitch but it was even heavier when I was done. There was no substantial difference in handling compared to a dialed in Eaz-Lift.

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Old 04-06-2014, 05:11 AM   #515
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Hi Eddie

Keep an eye on your receiver. If you see it starting to bend up at the back end or you find you keep having to drop more links to get the same weight transfer you will likely need to get it strengthened at some point.

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Old 04-06-2014, 07:54 AM   #516
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Andy,

Thanks for all your help.

The Class III hitch is rated for 450 lbs. tongue weight. The Camplite specs 250 lbs. I should probably check the actual tongue weight with battery, propane and supplies in place.

But I can envision the torque/bending forces being applied by the w/d hitch snugged tight.

I will try to get some photos and measurements of the receiver now, so I will be able to check against them in the future. If there's any doubt that things are bending, I will definitely check back for advice on reinforcing.
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Old 04-06-2014, 08:08 AM   #517
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24' Tradewind with Highlander

Hi,

We've been towing our 1959 24' Tradewind with our 2008 Toyota Highlander for years. Fully loaded the trailer weighs about 4200 and the SUV V6 engine allows me to tow it between 55-65 mph with a 18mpg fuel burn. I use the Anderson No-sway weight distribution system which many are skeptical about but I simply love it.
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Old 04-06-2014, 08:55 AM   #518
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That's great mileage.
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Old 04-06-2014, 09:57 AM   #519
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Agreed, great mileage

V6 (turbocharged) in our Flex seemed to hover between 12 and 12.5 mpg with no wind at about 60-65.

New to this, but is there a reason you don't bring the ball of your hitch closer to the axle? I just did on my setup - have not yet towed with it. Seems to be recommended pretty much across the board.
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Old 04-06-2014, 10:00 AM   #520
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Bringing the ball closer to the back axle reduces the wheelbase to overhang ratio. It is physics and only goodness can come from it.
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