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Old 01-17-2014, 04:45 PM   #183
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Wow! Congrats! Looks great! Good luck - keep us all posted!
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Old 01-17-2014, 05:39 PM   #184
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The 300 mods and hitch work look good!!!!!!!!!
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Old 01-17-2014, 07:56 PM   #185
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The 300 mods and hitch work look good!!!!!!!!!
I still feel I am in unchartered territory until I get a tow on. The receiver looks really well done, and he has it well secured to the rear suspension cross member. I'm less confident about the shocks. I originally wanted air bags per Andy's recommendation. None are available because this model only has 3.5" dia. springs - they can't be adapted. So we went to the idea of air shocks, but none are made for a 2012. So "Bill" had to scour the manufacturer's catalogs and match-up several dimensions to see what might be adapted. He found 5 and ordered them all. Then he test fit them until he found the best match. Then he fabricated a top mount onto the chassis to fit the shock.

I won't be able to drop the trailer on it for a few more days. Until then, I will be anxious about the enterprise!
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Old 01-17-2014, 08:01 PM   #186
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Perhaps you could take it to a wide open lot with the existing TV, then hitch up and test where you have lots of space to experiment.
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Old 01-17-2014, 08:31 PM   #187
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Yeah. My wife is insisting we do 10 laps around the storage lot before even going on the street. I am changing hitches too. That's lying on the garage floor right now. I'll try to get that onto the trailer tomorrow. We live in an area where there are plenty of "test tracks" available. Large parking lots, lonely roads. I really do plan on a lot of testing. For the obvious reason of caution, and to learn as much as possible about the handling before going live. We hope to make some videos of the testing.
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Old 01-17-2014, 10:33 PM   #188
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For me, I kept the 04 V10 that does great with it's 4WD taking me anywhere I want to go. In addition, it pulls the 16' double tandem with rolls of hay loaded out, carries 40 50lb bags of feed or 30 80lb bags of concrete or more, pulls the horse trailer with what ever kind of stock we need moved, and so many other chores around here that must be performed. Besides..........IT'S PAID FOR ..........

What I got for my daily driver that is also paid for, gets 25 to 32 mpg, and is FUN FUN FUN is below.........God bless.........Dennis
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Old 01-18-2014, 09:16 AM   #189
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Can we not turn this thread into another argument about tow vehicle size, please? That's a discussion for another thread. Let's see actual setups, as requested by the OP.
How about applying for the moderator role?
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Old 01-18-2014, 04:16 PM   #190
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I just returned from the storage yard after driving the 300/Flying Cloud combo around the yard! No lights or brake controller yet, so I couldn't escape to the streets. But I feel soooo much better about the components after getting them working.

I was able to drop the trailer on the new EazLift hitch and level the car and trailer out to almost an "exact" condition. The car was about 1/2" higher in the back than front, and the trailer was dead level. The bars were tilted downward about 15deg. using all of the drop chain avail. Without a weight ticket I have incomplete data, but at least visually, things look kosher.

Problems. 1) Yikes, I have to really, REALLY jack the car high to get the chains on. This always makes me nervous and no less now than with the Burb which use to rise to simply scary heights. I just wish there was an invention that would raise bars by themselves, without the need to use the stem jack. Anyway, we got them on.

2) The clearance under the "hitch junk" seems pretty short. I suspect I will be banging the hitch regularly on the pavement.

Good stuff. 1) The car doesn't seem to labor at all pulling off a dead stop. Feels every bit as punchy as the 'Burb. Of course, I only got up to 30MPH in the facility so it's not much of a test. But on some level, in my worst nightmare, I imagined pressing the gas peddle and feeling some anemic response. Nope! 2) The EazLift doesn't make the infamous grinding noise of the Equalizer hitch. This is especially true in tight turns which we looked at closely for any binding or who knows what. At the sharpest angle, the inside bar is limp enough to move with a foot push, the outside bar is absolutely rigid. 3) I started with 90# in the air shocks and did not have to add any more air after it was hitched. I think the implication is that the WD was very effective.

Questions for the experts: There is no power socket on the Curt receiver and no obvious way to add one. I imagine then my power will be a female connector attached to a pigtail in the trunk? And I just close the trunk lid over the wire? Or?
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Old 01-18-2014, 04:28 PM   #191
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What??? No pictures?
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Old 01-18-2014, 04:30 PM   #192
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My setup may only be considered small in my region (south Texas), where full-sized heavy-duty pickups are the rule.

The X5 is a medium-sized car-based SUV, with a curb weight of about 5200 lbs, 191 in long, 116 in wheelbase, and hitch/tow ratings of 600/6000 lbs.

The Sport 22 weighs about 3400 lbs loaded.

We use a Hensley Arrow hitch setup, transferred from previous TV/TT combination.

The diesel gets 15-18 MPG towing, 24 around town, and 29 highway when not towing. We have found it to be a terrific, real life combination.

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Old 01-18-2014, 05:01 PM   #193
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I was wondering about an X5 as a tow vehicle- it won't work for a Classic 30...
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Old 01-18-2014, 05:28 PM   #194
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Good news. Also correct about the pigtail in the trunk. You just close the lid over it.
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Old 01-18-2014, 05:47 PM   #195
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..... There is no power socket on the Curt receiver and no obvious way to add one. I imagine then my power will be a female connector attached to a pigtail in the trunk? And I just close the trunk lid over the wire? Or?
Why couldn't you just attach the typical "socket holding bent piece of sheet metal" to the cross piece of your hitch ? On mine it's welded on, but there is no reason why it couldn't be held on with a couple of self drilling bolts. Would a photo of mine make it more clear ?
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Old 01-18-2014, 06:00 PM   #196
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mstephens View Post
I just returned from the storage yard after driving the 300/Flying Cloud combo around the yard! No lights or brake controller yet, so I couldn't escape to the streets. But I feel soooo much better about the components after getting them working.

I was able to drop the trailer on the new EazLift hitch and level the car and trailer out to almost an "exact" condition. The car was about 1/2" higher in the back than front, and the trailer was dead level. The bars were tilted downward about 15deg. using all of the drop chain avail. Without a weight ticket I have incomplete data, but at least visually, things look kosher.

Problems. 1) Yikes, I have to really, REALLY jack the car high to get the chains on. This always makes me nervous and no less now than with the Burb which use to rise to simply scary heights. I just wish there was an invention that would raise bars by themselves, without the need to use the stem jack. Anyway, we got them on.

2) The clearance under the "hitch junk" seems pretty short. I suspect I will be banging the hitch regularly on the pavement.

Good stuff. 1) The car doesn't seem to labor at all pulling off a dead stop. Feels every bit as punchy as the 'Burb. Of course, I only got up to 30MPH in the facility so it's not much of a test. But on some level, in my worst nightmare, I imagined pressing the gas peddle and feeling some anemic response. Nope! 2) The EazLift doesn't make the infamous grinding noise of the Equalizer hitch. This is especially true in tight turns which we looked at closely for any binding or who knows what. At the sharpest angle, the inside bar is limp enough to move with a foot push, the outside bar is absolutely rigid. 3) I started with 90# in the air shocks and did not have to add any more air after it was hitched. I think the implication is that the WD was very effective.

Questions for the experts: There is no power socket on the Curt receiver and no obvious way to add one. I imagine then my power will be a female connector attached to a pigtail in the trunk? And I just close the trunk lid over the wire? Or?

I was really looking forward to your initial report since I am a strong advocate of doing more with less and I admire the process you went thru to make your "Streamin" a top notch, safe event. I am pretty sure you have already considered the following so my comments are most likely just supporting what you have already done. The tuning of the balance will be more delicate than with your Suburban as I am sure you have already discovered and maintaining the same delta at your front and rear wheel wells, unhitched vs hitched, will give you a fighting chance of being balanced and suffice until you get to the scales. You may even be OK already given your comments. As you know, the delta is determined by the force exerted by the chains, and regardless of the system used, the science is the same. The impact of the air shocks is a secondary adjustment that should not impact your initial balancing act but may require tuning once you feel the ride results from road activity. I would ask Andy T about the method he used for the power socket and your comments on the power efficiency are not surprising in the least. I have no experience with the EasLift hitch. My Jeeps have used a regular Reese wd hitch, a Reese dual cam, and a Hensley. I can't tell the performance difference between the Reese dual cam and the Hensley. Great job and good luck with the finishing touches. Jim
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