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Old 02-05-2010, 07:33 PM   #15
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No prob, here you go.... TRAILER LIGHT WIRING - TYPICAL TRAILER LIGHT WIRING DIAGRAM / SCHEMATIC - Trailer Parts & Accessories - Chuck's Chevy Truck

Airstreams..... The best towing trailers on the planet!
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Old 02-05-2010, 08:08 PM   #16
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From what I can tell its a 7 pin flat connector?

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Old 02-05-2010, 08:08 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by boutdoors View Post
I will be setting up my tow vehicle soon from scratch. Need some advice. I have a 2002 Tacoma 4x4 with a Manual Trans.

Do I need to upgrade the battery, is there a special battery I should get that is beefier? Should I consider replacing shocks? Should I use Higher Octane gas?

Thanks in advance for any advice.
so now you've got 3 threads on the SAME vehicle and trailer combo?

seldon is doing that wise, but don't let that discourage ASKING questions...

questions is good!

bouncing around means incomplete info about the primary issues/background/components and so on...

which only brings incomplete answers and advice and may actually produce BAD suggestions from the lack of details.

it might SEEM useful to split hairs on towing issues, but the needs HERE are all basic and interrelated to ONE combo.

-truck battery has no impact on trailer, the alternator does but ONLY if the demands to power/charging via the 7 pin are excessive.

and shouldn't be with a factory stock single deep cycle, single axle NEW trailer.

-the "upgraded shocks" and more BEEF issue has been addressed in the other thread.

-use the fuel spec'd in the owners manual which is largely based on COMPRESSION ratings for the 4 banger...

SOME high compression 4s spec high octane fuel and using LESSer fuels will result in lower performance in those engines...

most MODERN engines will just adjust/dial back the timing for that fuel, which is harmless short term, but lowers mpg OR hp or both.

LONG TERM use of higher octane fuel than required has NO real/measurable benefits...

since the engines that SPEC 87 have no mechanism for advancing the timing or increasing compression.

modern 7 pins are all identical on USA spec'd 'stream.

some (most) auto makers have pre-made wiring harnesses that can be added as part of a "towing package"

check with a toy' parts vendor for a specific harness for this 02,

there is NO reason to fabricate one, OR use a generic towing harness IF toy' parts suppliers make a version for this truck.

all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.

we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
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Old 02-05-2010, 08:19 PM   #18
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Sorry 2airishhuman did not know the "rules" just trying to get everything right. Like I have stated I am new to towing and am trying to do it right. I have been hearing "horror" stories from the dealers that claim that people show up to pick up their trailers and the wiring and hitch are all wrong. Plus I don't want to get ripped off by a hitch and wiring installer by having them install the wrong gear.

Thanks for all the information.
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Old 02-05-2010, 08:34 PM   #19
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it's not a RULE

start as many threads as u like!

but over time a thread builds 'followers' who will see it eventually IN their subscribed threads...

so over time YOUR audience grows for a specific thread/issue theme...

new threads just roll OFF the front page and might be MISSED by those who understand your needs from previous exchanges...

occasionally, for example someone posts the same question in multiple sub forums thinking that increases exposure...

just trying to IMPROVE the odds you'll get some answers to the combo in question, withOUT having to relist the details each time.

and asking for opinions HERE will definitely help with potential vendor ripoffs.

the collective is hard on bad vendor advice...

swing away and aim for the fence!

all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.

we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
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Old 02-06-2010, 02:46 AM   #20
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I am sure all this advice will come in very handy for me when I finally FIND a new tow vehicle that I can afford that I pray does not have some hidden agenda that the buyer is hiding from me. And after I sell that poor Explorer whose transmission I ruined when I hauled my light as a feather trailer all the way to Montana and back putting my mechanic in a very bad mood because he had to figure out a way to fix it since I did not have enough money for a new one. Thank God he loves art, it seems his collection is growing, I believe due to the fact that I never seem to have a lot of money whenever something breaks or needs to be smogged. I positively adore that man. Now if anyone knows of any great deals, please send them my way. I think I can get $5000 for the Explorer and maybe the same from my Malibu. There is my whole budget. If anyone knowingly (the key word) sends me a lemon that I end up regretting one dark and lonely night on some out of the way road, please be advised that I will send them in return, one smarty pants renter that I was discussing on the Thursday thread. I hope I stayed close enough to this thread that I don't have to duck 2air....

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Old 02-06-2010, 05:49 AM   #21
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Gauges to Drive By

Originally Posted by HowieE View Post
...get a good coolant temperature gage and drive with it, for gear selection, when in the hills
More gauges are generally better.

The two I pay the MOST attention to are the tach and a GOOD vacuum gauge (diesel drivers can stop reading at this point).

If you pay attention to your truck during "normal" (non-towing) driving, you will find that there is a definite "sweet spot" that the truck likes...

Keep as much vacuum on the manifold as you can - this advice works equally well with Fuel Injected vehicles as well as the Carbureted versions.

Keep the engine speed at a point that the torque and horsepower are in a "good" range - mostly this means to not lug the engine - keep the engine at a good mid-point range...a "good" mid-point certainly varies quite a bit. On the 345 with a chebby 454 it's in the lower to mid 3000 rpm range, on the Dodge 360 it's the mid to upper 2000's, and the Ford V-10 Excursion seems to consistently tow best in the lower to mid 2000 range.

With the Tacoma you can pretty well forget about fifth gear - and you might hardly ever get into fourth. Keep the gearing in the same range you would while going uphill while going downhill. Engine braking becomes more important when you are towing with a "smaller" TV.

The Taco MAY be a good tow vehicle for you. Be careful of not overloading it - add up your tongue weight, proposed load in the bed, and the people and other gear in the cabin for a first cut of the load appropriatness of the Taco as a tow vehicle.

As with any tow rig, it's important you scale the trailer/TV after it's hooked up to insure you do not bust any weight rating. You'll need to scale the thing anyway to set up the weight distribution bars.

Most of the more experienced towers here (those that do it all of the time) would probably recommend a 20% safety factor when it comes to weight and tow ratings.

Toyota rated this vehicle to tow a maximum of 3500 lbs, but you really need to check your vehicles load rating - I drove a mid-90's Tacoma and was bottoming the suspension out with a total of about 800 lbs in the truck.

Please let us know the results of your scale visit.

"Suck it up, spend the bucks, do it right the first time."

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Old 02-06-2010, 06:49 AM   #22

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A visit to the Cat scales is probably the most important aspect of your set-up inquiries.

Spend some time here to find out why...

AF #1

"Sticks & stones can break your bones...and hail will dent your Airstream"

So when is this..."old enough to know better" supposed to kick in?
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tacoma, tow vehicles

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