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Old 08-10-2016, 12:02 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TG Twinkie View Post
I believe the drivers weight (200lbs or so) is considered in the base weight of the truck. So you might have a little cushion.
Slightly nose down is better than nose up. Isn't your WD system adjustable? Be careful not to remove too much weight from the rear axle of the TV if you adjust the WD system.
Have you measured the actual tongue weight? You can do it with a bathroom scale and a couple of boards.
Isn't the FW tank over the axles or close? Full or empty it should not affect the tongue weight that much.

On my 2016 F150 lariat, the base curb weight as defined by Ford does Not include the weight of the driver or any people in the truck.. It is calculated on my truck by weighing the empty truck with all fluids full including a full gas tank.


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Old 08-10-2016, 12:18 PM   #16
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My guess is the base curb weight of your truck will be around 5435 lbs.
That is calculated by subtracting 7000 lb GVWR from your sticker payload of 1565 lbs. Mine was a little more than what was on the sticker, so your actual weight may be off a few pounds. When you go to the scales you will need to check the weights on the steering and drive axles to make sure they are not overloaded. I learned from Robert Cross, who posted his weight tickets above. He was a great help to me.


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Old 08-10-2016, 12:47 PM   #17
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I too have a F150 Crew Cab with a Cap V8 5.0 installed and wondered if I needed to upgrade to a F250. I just couldn't convince myself it was necessary due to the reason stated to need to do so.

I have a 2012 25' FC and its rated at 7300 #'s with 1060 #'s TW. It pulls the trailer in many different terrains without any issues. The Tow/Haul feature works great selecting the proper gear when needed.

However, there are some things I have done to address what I considered short comings to the setup.

1. Exterior Mirrors weren't allowing me to see behind as much as I wanted.

(Solution). I brought and installed (very easy) OEM Replacements for those standard mirrors. I now have the same type mirrors as the F250+. They manually extend out up to 24 inches. ($325)

2. Suspension was close to its max rating.

(Solution). I bought and had installed Super Springs that added an additional leaf to the rear springs. They only come into play when the rear has a load. The maker says they also reduce moment left and right on the rear of the truck? ($492)

3. Tires were a limiting loading factor.

(Solution) Replaced the tires that came with the 2013 truck with Michelin LT275/65R18. (normal replacement time)

Rather than not going to the big diesel engine that would cost more to maintain and operate, I haven't found anything else that makes me want a bigger truck.
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Old 08-10-2016, 12:49 PM   #18
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We have absolute confidence in our truck loaded within its axle and tire ratings, and our weight distribution hitch ensuring the truck and it's towing load is well-balanced on its axles.

On a trip we weighed the loaded Ram/Airstream to learn the axles were loaded under GAWR within 20 lbs of each other. That won't happen when we haul a full load of lumber in the bed of the truck and no trailer; it will be unbalanced, the steering, handling and braking will be compromised, we may be under GVWR but have an overloaded rear axle. The truck is much safer and pleasant to drive with the Airstream hitched up and w.d. set.

When towing the important ratings for us are axles and tires. Within these limits, experience with three different half-ton trucks towing our Airstream all over the country many times has shown it is an absolutely comfortable and safe combination.
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Old 08-10-2016, 12:58 PM   #19
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You have had only good experience with your rig. Best to keep on truckin' and not worry. The advice others have given on tires is very true. Make sure you are running LTs at the max pressure until you have weighed your rig. Don't run Ps as I mistakenly did a few years back. Mine had belt slippage and side wall bulging after a few thousand miles. After getting weights and adjusting your hitch accordingly and if the load per tire is low enough you may want to reduce the pressure to get a softer ride, but max pressure will always give you better tire mileage.

When you get to the scales, weigh your TV front wheels first to get the loaded weight on the front of the TV, pull forward to the front trailer wheels and weigh , forward again to weigh the entire rig, forward again to weigh just the trailer (while hitched). Pull off the scale, unhitch the trailer, Weigh the TV by itself. With those 5 weights you can calculate the load on each axle,tongue weight and total loaded weights of your TV and trailer. Subtract the trailer weight (while hitched) from the total to get your loaded TV weight. Subtract the TV weight by itself from the loaded TV weight to get your tongue weight. Subtract the loaded TV weight from the total rig weight with just the front trailer wheels on the scale to get the load on the front trailer axle, from that you can calculate the weight on the rear trailer axle. Then check the load/pressure chart on the web site of your tire manufacturer(s) to ensure you are operating at the recommended pressures.
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Old 08-10-2016, 01:16 PM   #20
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One stop on the CAT scale when loaded for a trip will tell you the weight of each truck axle and the two trailer axles.

We have kept the stock tires on our last two trucks; air them to maximum sidewall rating when towing and have no problems. They are easily rated for the load our truck axles can carry.
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Old 08-10-2016, 01:55 PM   #21
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I wouldn't worry about it. There are some "experts" on this forum that contend that a Chrysler 300 with a hitch can haul a 34' Classic, no problem. So your F-150 should be fine. A set of Firestone Air bags will definitely help with a little extra weight and will also stabilize as well.
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Old 08-10-2016, 02:59 PM   #22
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Though my 5.7L Toyota Tundra could pull like crazy at Interstate speed, it sorely lacked in going up and down mountain passes, and struggled sometimes to come to a "quick" stop. I recently upgraded to a Ford F250 with 6.7L Power stroke Diesel - man what a difference. Feels much safer and tows with ease.
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Old 08-10-2016, 03:28 PM   #23
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If you are happy with your set up, run it, and enjoy..
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Old 08-10-2016, 03:59 PM   #24
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"I either have to stop reading these forums......"

To settle your emotions, definitely. Seeking advice....likely.

If you have the dough to buy these things and the tow vehicle, then freakin' drive them until you have some fun or blow them up. You likely will experience the former; it's not like you're trying to pull you're AS with a Vega.
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Old 08-10-2016, 04:31 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by whitegs View Post
By the way, how can a bathroom scale measure 1000 lbs. of tongue weight? If it can, can I put it under the jack?
TG Twinkie said, with a couple boards and bathroom scale.

If you google, measuring tongue weight with a bathroom scale, there are diagrams and details.
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Old 08-10-2016, 06:01 PM   #26
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Weighing the trailer tongue has little useful purpose if you're using a weight distribution hitch. It will not tell you how much weight your Airstream will add to the tow vehicle after weight distribution is set. You need to weigh the truck solo at a CAT scale, then with the Airstream hitched up and w.d. set to know that.
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Old 08-10-2016, 06:04 PM   #27
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Same old, same old

Robert Cross provided the link to bathroom scale use on post #7 of this thread.
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Old 08-10-2016, 09:41 PM   #28
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As a veteran trailer tower for over 45 years and somewhat over weight on my 34' airstream limited there is always a given on the the axles. As long as U have the right tires on the TV and trailer you wont have a problem being overweight a bit. hate to say but I am ---- LBS over and have not had a problem and that has been that way for the last 8 years I have owned this trailer. I was a lot over as I read my tag on the trailer that said I had a 30' trailer. Contacted Airstream and they made up the right tage and I put it on. Now I am not as over loaded as I was. 2000 34' 12,500 LBS. 1997 F-250 355 diff. 7.3 with 345,000 miles and she wont stop.
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