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Old 09-27-2014, 12:17 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Gratz View Post
You could try switching to a High Rise Hitch Ball.
These are available in a 1" or 2" rise for trailer weight up to 10,000#.

The high rise ball lifts the tongue relative to the hitch head.
In addition to lifting the nose of the trailer, the high rise ball will produce an effect similar to adding more washers or raising the L-brackets -- allowing for an increase in load transfer.

Ron
"Pre-loading", in a sense. Takes less to produce more. Why there are those of us with HENSLEY hitches who have, or will, cut the bar and re-weld it at an angle to produce more initial lift. Makes re-hitching TV to TT more of a chore.

On my previous SS trailer I could get no FALR worthy of mention. And the newer TT is both longer and heavier and the truck will be pretty near axle gross once I start travelling. I'll really have to watch out on tire ratings as I'd prefer to keep tires at no more than 80% of max.

I purchased a fully adjustable hitch head (stinger) from PRO PRIDE to to work with my Hensley. The trailer and the truck will likely go through both suspension and receiver height changes, so the ability to work with what I have over time made it a worthwhile purchase. Once I am nearer I'll do a stinger swap per Hensley guidelines. And likely drill the hole and cut/re-weld the thing at that time. A good ways to go first, though.

I expect to record (weigh) the set-up, write a thread with pics and ask for help (as you are doing). Sweating the details is worth it. I don't expect to change my rig, and if I do, it would be for a shorter TT even if no lighter.

Good luck, crossing fingers on your account.

Ross

.

.
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Old 09-27-2014, 12:20 PM   #86
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Originally Posted by rgwatkin View Post
I am the original poster and I thought I would give an update. I have solved my truck level issue through a combination of the tire pressures and hitch tilt angle. As I shared I am using a Husky round bar WD with 800-1200lb bars. I first tried the addition of 1 additional washer but ultimately ended up with 2 additional for a total of 7. Today I measure the weights at a CAT station and got the following:
Front TV axle: 3360 lbs
Rear TV axle: 3580 lbs
Trailer axle: 6060
Total Axles: 13,000

Additionally: Here were the fender well height differentials.
Front axle before hookup: 36 1/8 after: 36"
Rear axle before hookup: 38 1/2 after 38"

The other piece of data is: the trailer is absolutely plumb level.

I feel much better and am much more confident in the setup.
The AS dealership in our local area did the original setup and am a little disappointed that they did not do it right the first time. A newbie to WD towing is not going to be able trouble shoot until he/she acquires the knowledge and that be definition is going to take a while.

Rich
Glad to see the numerical baseline is getting done. Next is a wheel-by-wheel weighing of the entire rig. Setting TV tire pressures accurately is the main goal (to heaviest tire across either axle) and correcting any easy FF-RR or side-side imbalances in TT.

You're way ahead of too many who ignore a fairly easy goal to achieve.

.
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Old 09-27-2014, 03:56 PM   #87
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Raised the ball one notch.
The more I tinker with it, the better I understand it.
It makes since to start with the trailer level and adjust the ball to match.
Click image for larger version

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I will measure and post numbers of front wheel well, rear wheel well, ball, and trailer unhitched, hitched without weight distribution, and hitched with weight distribution later.
I also need to hit the Cat scale once again. Although the previous trip showed numbers that were within spec, I hope the result will show more weight transferred to the front axle and to the trailer axles.
For now, I'm campin' and cookin' burgers and chicken.
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Old 09-27-2014, 04:12 PM   #88
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I am thinking about moving the L-brackets closer to the coupler. The measurement now is 32".
That and adding another washer or 2 is all I can do.
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Old 09-27-2014, 04:19 PM   #89
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I am disappointed that the dealer nor the service center could get this right and left me hanging to figure this out on my own.
Thank goodness for Airforums!
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Old 09-27-2014, 04:27 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowmover View Post
". . According to the instructions up to 1 1/4" nose down is acceptable"

For an AS? Okay on a leaf-sprung TT where the axle load is shared via an "equalizer", but not so on an independent suspension. Granted that nose down is slightly more acceptable. But handling, and most especially braking overloads the front TT axle. Etc.


" . . I have really almost exhausted all possibilities/combinations"

A set of pictures via email to Andrew_T at CAN AM RV would be on my list prior to said exhaustion.

If the TV is level prior to hitching then a slight sag to the truck rear is not of concern, just whether the FALR is good and the TT is level. Then, weighing by wheel position for further refinement. Get the full set of scale tickets: solo, hitched, and hitched with WD appled.

With this numerical baseline established, then experimentation can begin.


" . . Bob was telling me the merits of a Reese Dual Cam in that regard- it is designed (cam and crook in weight bar) to always want to return to center/straighten. The Equal-i-zer straight bars have nothing to make them return to center/straight."

This is what Andy at INLAND RV describes as a "brain". And why the DC rates higher in his estimation (and with others of us).

.

After getting rid of my EazLift I can see merit in its design, too- or any other similar style weight distribution hitch with the chain links to adjust tension on the weight bars-
Too much weight distribution? Down 1 link. Too little weight distribution? Up 1 link- plus the tendency to want to return to straight after a turn-
Easy-peasy-
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Old 09-27-2014, 05:26 PM   #91
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For information, I downloaded the husky round bar WD manual and it says the ball is supposed to be 1" above the inside of the coupler. So, I leveled the trailer and set the ball height accordingly. This may not be the recommendation for all systems but it worked out perfectly for me.
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Old 09-27-2014, 05:52 PM   #92
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I would not move the brackets closer than the 32 inch recommendation due to the above post regarding bars flexing. They need to flex.
Add one more washer and try that put, by the way the truck in your picture did look level compared to the pictures in your previous posts


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Old 09-27-2014, 06:56 PM   #93
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Originally Posted by m.hony View Post
Raised the ball one notch.
The more I tinker with it, the better I understand it.
It makes since to start with the trailer level and adjust the ball to match.
Attachment 222978
I will measure and post numbers of front wheel well, rear wheel well, ball, and trailer unhitched, hitched without weight distribution, and hitched with weight distribution later.
I also need to hit the Cat scale once again. Although the previous trip showed numbers that were within spec, I hope the result will show more weight transferred to the front axle and to the trailer axles.
For now, I'm campin' and cookin' burgers and chicken.
You may find this link an aid:

Woodalls Open Roads Forum: Towing: Heading to the CAT scales tomorrow

There is also a spreadsheet or two floating around here and on WOODALLS.net which does the same (need to check it though).

Also, once WDH is basically done, check the indivudual wheel weights on a scale.

http://www.trucktires.com/bridgeston.../WeighForm.pdf

A full set of numbers is the basis for any future changes. And a huge help in diagnosing those funny feelings, noises and actions once underway. FinalCutJoe has a great thread on this in re "was it new tires, or the hitch, or . . ?" that was causing him grief (whoops, sorry, BoonDockDad, newer screen name.

Last link in this link:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...ml#post1111379

One might say that, once on the other side, the initial work of setting up a rig pays real dividends. Allows one to enjoy the road. Etc. RobertCross is very good on this aspect.

.

.
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Old 09-27-2014, 07:23 PM   #94
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Don't move the brackets to shorten the bar. The effect is a more rigid w.d. bar, loss of flexibility. The Equal-I-Zer non-tapered bars are already more rigid than some trailer repair shop owners recommend. The damage risk is a bent A-frame when going through deep drop and rise in pavement such as some gas station approaches.

Having used an Equal-I-Zer it seems to me there is a lot of over-thinking going on in this thread. It's a really simple hitch to adjust properly, and it looks like you have got the hang of it.
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Old 09-27-2014, 07:42 PM   #95
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I'm getting closer. Leave the ball where it is. Leave the L-brackets where they are. Maybe add a washer or 2. As is, I just drug it 2,000 miles and it felt right as far as weight distribution and anti-sway working well. I just want my trailer level, too.
I still have a theory that the truck's suspension is wearing out gradually and periodic adjustment/compensation will be necessary.
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Old 09-27-2014, 08:55 PM   #96
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If your weight distribution is good but the trailer is low in front there is no reason to add washers or move brackets. Just raise the ball on the receiver.

If you feel your truck is wearing out carrying near it's recommended payload, you might have newtruckitis, an expensive and usually unnecessary affliction.
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Old 09-27-2014, 10:36 PM   #97
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No newtruckitis here.
I ain't got no money.
I'm just trying everything I can to get the trailer to ride level. I have the ball in the top hole. The only way to get it higher is to invert the shank. I really don't think that will be necessary. I'm also afraid that it might get in the way of the tailgate if inverted- it may stick up too high-
I ain't got no- that's the story of my life-
I like my truck and trailer just fine. If riding a little nose down is the worst problem I have, I ain't got no problems.
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Old 09-27-2014, 10:54 PM   #98
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On the bright side,,, you have more than enough truck.
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