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Old 09-26-2014, 08:22 PM   #71
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If i could get my wife's sewing machine in an Airstream I think I could get rid of my house all together....
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Old 09-26-2014, 11:16 PM   #72
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Originally Posted by rgwatkin View Post
I am the original poster and I thought I would give an update. I have solved my truck level issue through a combination of the tire pressures and hitch tilt angle. As I shared I am using a Husky round bar WD with 800-1200lb bars. I first tried the addition of 1 additional washer but ultimately ended up with 2 additional for a total of 7. Today I measure the weights at a CAT station and got the following:
Front TV axle: 3360 lbs
Rear TV axle: 3580 lbs
Trailer axle: 6060
Total Axles: 13,000

Additionally: Here were the fender well height differentials.
Front axle before hookup: 36 1/8 after: 36"
Rear axle before hookup: 38 1/2 after 38"

The other piece of data is: the trailer is absolutely plumb level.

I feel much better and am much more confident in the setup.
The AS dealership in our local area did the original setup and am a little disappointed that they did not do it right the first time. A newbie to WD towing is not going to be able trouble shoot until he/she acquires the knowledge and that be definition is going to take a while.

Rich
Rich...glad you got things figured out...and sorry you thread got hijacked...I forgot you were the OP. After I got my trailer set up from the dealer I spent hours in the storage yard fine tuning. It was well worth it. I haven't messed with the hitch adjustments for a long time, but I keep experimenting with tire pressures...it is always a work in progress. Good luck and post a pic with your newly leveled rig. Gene
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Old 09-26-2014, 11:34 PM   #73
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Originally Posted by J. Morgan View Post
If i could get my wife's sewing machine in an Airstream I think I could get rid of my house all together....
I have both my sewing machine AND my serger in our A/S....

Vivian
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Old 09-27-2014, 12:04 AM   #74
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The washers supplied by EQ are hardened and it is unlikely that they are compressing to any degree ...

Adding washers is essentially the same as raising the L-brackets. You need to find a balance where the load bars are a close to parallel to the frame/ground as possible.
Hi, with the washers in place, the slack bolt tight, and the head bolts tight, I don't believe that the washers could get smashed. If everything was loose, maybe the washers could get hammered, but something much worse would soon happen. Basically, I'm saying that I don't believe in smashed washers.
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Old 09-27-2014, 12:16 AM   #75
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I raised the ball. It still doesn't look right. I got out the instructions and started over at step 1. According to the instructions up to 1 1/4" nose down is acceptable. According to the instructions 2" compression on the rear suspension is the target. The pictogram for "acceptable" or "right" shows a sagging truck with a horizontal dotted line through it. It just isn't acceptable to me. I will tinker with it some more this weekend at the campground. I have really almost exhausted all possibilities/combinations and I cannot afford another truck. As bad as I don't like it, I may have to live with it. I will get a couple more washers to try. That will really be the last thing to try other than raising the ball again. It seems like raising the ball just pushes the tail end of the truck down even further while the trailer is remaining in the same attitude/height. All I have accomplished in all this tinkering is getting the rear of the truck up a couple of inches (a good thing- proper weight distribution) and better anti-sway control (also a good thing). Adjusting the L-brackets has had more influence on the whole rig than washers or ball height. That makes me wonder if I should get 1,200# bars. If I could just get that trailer level. The instructions indicated that I may not get the trailer level, but if I have to choose nose down is better/safer than nose up.
Hi, I finally set my hitch up with 6 1/2 washers. Six wasn't quite enough and seven would have been too much. I found a washer that was half as thick as the rest; Therefore I call it six and one half washers. I have a picture of this on the Equal-I-zer hitch thread. What is the payload on your truck and what is the tongue weight on your trailer? Instead of 1200 lb bars, I would add a leaf to the rear suspension first. Spring bars shouldn't have to make up for the lack of payload of the tow vehicle. I also moved my "L" brackets to the farthest distance from the ball. I believe that they all should be set there. The longer distance gives the spring bars more leverage and more room for flexibility.
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Old 09-27-2014, 02:10 AM   #76
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I would think L-brackets closer to the ball would have more effect- more lift, more pressure on the weight bars-
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Old 09-27-2014, 02:17 AM   #77
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More pressure on your trailer as well, not good on a equalizer hitch.
Raise the hitch head one more hole and your there. The truck now doesn't look like its squating or low in the back now. From your picture you posted


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Old 09-27-2014, 03:28 AM   #78
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I'm not going to move the L-brackets- just a contrasting thought to what someone had posted-
Hope to raise the ball one notch today.
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Old 09-27-2014, 07:22 AM   #79
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To the OP, it's great you got it right. Now go out confidently and camp. Good job. Jim
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Old 09-27-2014, 08:28 AM   #80
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I think you need a 3/4 ton. You're just trying to tow to much with such a little truck.


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Old 09-27-2014, 10:28 AM   #81
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I think you need a 3/4 ton. You're just trying to tow to much with such a little truck.


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It's not a towing problem, it's a hauling problem.

The truck is fine with excellent stability, handling and ride, with plenty of power and braking. The problem is only payload capacity which can only be managed by limiting gear and accessories in/on the bed of the truck, primarily behind the rear axle.

Even towing a Bambi will not work if the truck is overloaded.
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Old 09-27-2014, 10:41 AM   #82
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doug has no sense of humor or recognizes it.
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Old 09-27-2014, 10:46 AM   #83
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I guess I don't either? What was supposed to be funny? Jim
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Old 09-27-2014, 12:06 PM   #84
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". . According to the instructions up to 1 1/4" nose down is acceptable"

For an AS? Okay on a leaf-sprung TT where the axle load is shared via an "equalizer", but not so on an independent suspension. Granted that nose down is slightly more acceptable. But handling, and most especially braking overloads the front TT axle. Etc.


" . . I have really almost exhausted all possibilities/combinations"

A set of pictures via email to Andrew_T at CAN AM RV would be on my list prior to said exhaustion.

If the TV is level prior to hitching then a slight sag to the truck rear is not of concern, just whether the FALR is good and the TT is level. Then, weighing by wheel position for further refinement. Get the full set of scale tickets: solo, hitched, and hitched with WD appled.

With this numerical baseline established, then experimentation can begin.


" . . Bob was telling me the merits of a Reese Dual Cam in that regard- it is designed (cam and crook in weight bar) to always want to return to center/straighten. The Equal-i-zer straight bars have nothing to make them return to center/straight."

This is what Andy at INLAND RV describes as a "brain". And why the DC rates higher in his estimation (and with others of us).

.
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