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Old 10-03-2014, 07:57 PM   #181
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You asked if someone had used something similar. We had two different 1/2 ton trucks an Equal-I-Zer hitch and our 25' Airstream with nearly same factory hitch weight as yours.

With the weight distribution set right with camp-ready loading in truck and trailer, then I would tweak the level of the trailer with raising or lowering the hitch head on the drop bar. If I recall that's about 1 1/2" per hole, so should raise or lower the front of the trailer about an inch without disturbing the weight distribution settings.

Going down the road with all its bumps and dips may settle things a bit so you might be seeing a slight change there, and most likely there is a little vertical twisting of the half-ton truck receiver which I'm guessing is fairly normal when weight distribution is applied, returning to original when w.d. is released.
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Old 10-03-2014, 08:15 PM   #182
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
You asked if someone had used something similar. We had two different 1/2 ton trucks an Equal-I-Zer hitch and our 25' Airstream with nearly same factory hitch weight as yours.

With the weight distribution set right with camp-ready loading in truck and trailer, then I would tweak the level of the trailer with raising or lowering the hitch head on the drop bar. If I recall that's about 1 1/2" per hole, so should raise or lower the front of the trailer about an inch without disturbing the weight distribution settings.

Going down the road with all its bumps and dips may settle things a bit so you might be seeing a slight change there, and most likely there is a little vertical twisting of the half-ton truck receiver which I'm guessing is fairly normal when weight distribution is applied, returning to original when w.d. is released.
My suggestion as well ... raise the hitch head on the drop bar / stinger one hole. That should raise the front of your trailer. However, it will affect your weight distribution. To get that distribution back, you will need to either raise the L-brackets or add one washer to the downward tilt. As I said before, adding a washer to the downward tilt has an effect similar to raising the L-brackets. However, the distance from the ball to the L-brackets varies by the installer; so, it is not always a tit-for tat exact amount.

The reason that you try to get the load bars parallel to the ground or to the trailer frame is because they ride on the L-brackets. If the bottom of the bar is parallel with the bottom of the L-bracket, it minimizes the wear and maximizes the contact surface area. We have used the same hitch on three different AS trailers and two different TVs. I have helped many get their set ups right; if you are in the area, feel free to send me a PM for a meet up...or call if you want to talk it through. I can feel your frustration in your posts.
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Old 10-03-2014, 08:20 PM   #183
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I already tried raising the hitch head one notch. Then the trailer is nose up!
I have slightly tilted the L-brackets back to match the angle of the bars.
Equal-i-zer is sending me a couple of washers.
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Old 10-03-2014, 08:38 PM   #184
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Why can't you buy the 1" ball and take it to a machine shop and have it turned down to the 1/2" you want? Buy 2 and do one at 3/8" and the other at 1/2"? My head hurts after reading this thread! I can't imagine how yours feels m.hony.
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Old 10-03-2014, 08:58 PM   #185
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I couldn't find a 1" ball- only 2"-
I thought about shimming it with a washer.
Waiting on washers from Equal-i-zer-
Might be a while till I'm able to tinker with it. We're in a state park with un-level pads now.
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Old 10-04-2014, 05:58 AM   #186
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Maybe sit back and regroup. Go back to the slightly nose down setup and go camping. Overthinking. Jim
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Old 10-04-2014, 06:12 AM   #187
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We are back to the nose down setup.
We are camping.
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The only thing left to try is another washer in the hitch head.
If that don't work, it's nose down permanently.
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Old 10-04-2014, 06:13 AM   #188
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Have re-grouped about a half dozen times...
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Old 10-04-2014, 10:46 AM   #189
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m.hony,

Take a look at this thread I started about my solution to a similar problem as yours:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...ml#post1520179
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Old 10-20-2014, 08:19 AM   #190
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I agree. I put air bags on my Silverado and solved the sagging problem.
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Old 10-20-2014, 06:44 PM   #191
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I added a washer for a total of 7.
The trailer is now barely nose down- 1/4" difference from front to rear.
It's good enough. I'm gonna leave it alone. Just towed 900 miles just fine.
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Old 10-21-2014, 09:02 AM   #192
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Our trailer varies from ⅛" to ¼" nose low. Not an issue.
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Old 10-21-2014, 09:43 AM   #193
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m.hony View Post
I added a washer for a total of 7.
The trailer is now barely nose down- 1/4" difference from front to rear.
It's good enough. I'm gonna leave it alone. Just towed 900 miles just fine.
I almost had a heart attack, you need to warn us before using such words...
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Old 10-21-2014, 10:52 AM   #194
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Wow; finally you got it!
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Old 10-21-2014, 12:50 PM   #195
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1/4" nose down is not even detected by the eye- I only know because I put a tape measure on it.
I was gonna put my new back link plates on, but I couldn't get the bolts undone. I'll need air to get the L-brackets apart. I tightened them by hand- I guess that's what nylon nuts and lock washers do-
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Old 10-21-2014, 12:51 PM   #196
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Quote:
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I almost had a heart attack, you need to warn us before using such words...

It wasn't good enough prior to that adjustment-
I'm just real hard headed and simply refused to accept that the way it was was good enough-
Was was-
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Old 10-21-2014, 01:32 PM   #197
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If you're into territory Switz has nailed down then that hardheadedness has paid off. Do it once and do it right (ain't always easy to accomplish).


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