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Old 09-20-2008, 10:33 PM   #1
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Rough riding F350 Dually.. airbags?

Hello forum?

I have a 94 F350 crew cab dually thats currently getting some upgrades. I have read some posts about guys with these trucks and the concerns of beating up the airstream. So what about that? Should i have some leafs removed and maybe install rear bags? Im running the reese dual cam and when i jump up and down on it i get very little movement. Has anyone already gone through this and might be able to give some advise? I havent used this truck yet so no damage done yet but just trying to avoid and future problems..

The trailer is a 2001 30' S/O

Thanks Vinnie
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Old 09-20-2008, 10:52 PM   #2
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Run your tire pressure lower than the max. On a dually I would run 35-40 psi on the rear tires. That will help a bunch. I have a 1994 1/2 F350 4x4 7.3 DI Turbo. It is a regular cab single rear wheel. It has factory sway bars front & rear. It has a very stiff ride. I do not have a sway hitch and it tows & handles great. I am fairly new to the Airstream but I have not noticed a problem with the ride off the truck adversly affecting the trailer. When towing I run my rear tires @40 psi ,front tires at 45 psi.
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Old 09-20-2008, 11:10 PM   #3
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Diesel1.. are you afraid that the low tire pressure will heat up those tires to temps that might cause a blowout? The tongue weight on my airstream is upwards of 1200 lbs. The truck is heavy too.. i usually run 65psi in all tires as they will heat up to about 70+.

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Old 09-20-2008, 11:27 PM   #4
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I have towed my trailer using a dually all it's 22 year life. With a Ford most of the time and now with a Chevy. I have not seen any problems because of it. Some people say it's a matter of time before problems begin. I really don't know. All I can relate to is my experience with this type of rig. And to me, it is the best way to travel!
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Old 09-20-2008, 11:39 PM   #5
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Good to hear. The long wheel base on the crew cab really makes it a pleasure to drive. (a little hard to park but thats ok)
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Old 09-21-2008, 06:57 AM   #6
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The heat in the tire that leads to a blowout is caused by flexing of the sidewall, either from underinflation, or overloading. A standard one ton truck is designed to haul a minimum of 2000 pounds in the bed, and usually more than that, with only two tires in the back. That means each tire on a duallie will be carrying about 500 pounds of cargo at 80 psi. As far as the load, you shouldn't have a problem. Now, a secret: Reduce the tire pressure to about 50, hook up the trailer, and drive it around for a few miles, then crawl under the truck and look at the space between the dual wheels. If along the widest part of the tires, you see rub marks on both tires, they are touching each other under load. Add some more air and repeat your drive.
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Old 09-21-2008, 07:45 AM   #7
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Hello. I would not advise on lowering tire pressure, however if you must do it 63 is correct, dont let the side walls rub.

My son has a 95 F350 ext cab 7.3 l turbo deisel. I have a 31 ft Airstream. I many times dont even use the torsion bars.

The heavier trucks like to be loaded. They ride smoother under a load. Remember that when hitching up. Use a light torsion bar, and you dont need to crank on them.

When towing, you are pulling from the front , when you hit a bump it is a teeter totter effect, unless you use really heavy torsion bars, the trailer has its own suspension.

I think you have a good set up just weight adlustment / transferr is all that needs to be adjusted.
Good luck
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Old 09-21-2008, 07:54 AM   #8
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I don't tow with a dually, but recently while picking up our current Airstream at a dealer, I talked at length with a professional driver that transports travel trailers for a living with a Dodge Diesel dually.

I noticed he was not using an equalizer hitch, only one of the adjustable drops, and I asked him about it. His response was interesting. He told me he only used air bags to soften the rear suspension because in his words, "these travel trailers will beat you to death". He also told me he quit using weight distributing hitches after watching a trailer turn over and take the tow vehicle with it. He maintained the dually will handle any travel trailer's tongue weight without a problem, and the air bags were just to soften the ride, and with that truck, weight distribution was not needed.

This from a driver that hauls travel trailers of all sizes and types upwards of 150,000 miles a year, so I suppose he has enough experience to know what he's talking about.
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Old 09-21-2008, 09:47 AM   #9
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I would leave your tire pressure at mfg rcmd levels. Your idea to replace the springs with air ride is interesting. You could also invest in a product called air hitch. I would do something soon as you damage levels may be significant with any long tow due to todays road conditions. Good luck.
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Old 09-21-2008, 10:03 AM   #10
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The rear GAWR on the door placard on my F350 is 6084 lbs. The Mfg recomended rear tire PSI is 80. I have only loaded my truck to rear max GAWR once( a pallot of tile). If you are not loaded to max you do not need max air pressure. Not only load but speed also builds heat, Keep your tow speeds at 65 mph or lower,set your tires @ 40 psi with a 1200 lb load and enloy the ride.
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Old 09-21-2008, 07:21 PM   #11
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Thanks everyone. I just spent 1k on a weight distrubution hitch as the dealer wouldnt let me leave without one. I told them i didnt think i would need it but its their policy to make sure they extort the buyer during the honeymoon stage..LOL.
So what if i just lower the tire pressure to around 60spi without the weight distribution hitch attached and go drive it. Maybe i dont even need the airbags?

Vinnie
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Old 09-21-2008, 07:26 PM   #12
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what weight WD bars came with that?
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Old 09-21-2008, 07:45 PM   #13
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The bars they sold me at one thousand pound bars.. total overkill for that truck i would think.
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Old 09-21-2008, 08:13 PM   #14
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vlamcia
I have a F350 Crew/7.3 liter/ SW which has the same springs and rearend housing as the Dually
I respectfully submit that U are WAY WAY over hitched.
We get a ride thats like a Lincoln. We use the Reese Dual cam /straightline a have no problems.
What I always say is
THE TAIL IS IN THE SCALE
no matter what anyone tells ya GET THAT RIG TO A CAT SCALE
and find out where the weight really is.
Best way I have found,is to Weight the truck first bye itself.
Weighing the
STEERIN ///// first THEN
Drive Axle///////// THEN
the WHOLE TRUCK
Then Hook to the trailer /
and repeat the process only adding the trailer axles
STEERING
DRIVE
TRAILER
With a little addition and subtraction U will see where the weight is
I would go back to that Idiot dealer and trade those 1000lb bars for 500rds
U should windup with about the same weights on all axles ,around 5000 lbs on each axle give or take a K lbs
Please post the results
I know Everyone would be interested.
Ok I forgot to say
BEEN THERE
DONE THAT
Roger
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