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Old 01-16-2013, 12:47 PM   #29
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Just a little practice and forethought.

It is really is no big deal.

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Old 01-16-2013, 12:52 PM   #30
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Wooden Rivet, the best I can tell Ford switched to the larger fill ports around '00 on the TRUCKS. I have no idea if Ford ever switched to the larger fill port on the vans. Googling around, is see threads on other forums where owners have came up with their own "upgrade" to the larger fuel port size.
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Old 01-19-2013, 07:28 PM   #31
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Thanks for all the information and discussion. I use the RV Plus card for the Duramax and my wife's TDI VW. I'll have to download the apps and check them out. Now I guess I need to get the OB for sale.
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Old 02-10-2013, 12:05 PM   #32
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The Gas Buddy app lets us know where the best fuel prices are ...
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Old 02-10-2013, 01:17 PM   #33
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Refueling a tow vehicle...with a large trailer in tow...is just behind breaking down as my least favorite things about RVing.

To mitigate this painful refueling factor, I installed a 90 gallon diesel tank in the bed of my F250, along with fuel filters on the tank to remove any sediment and water I might get at a fuel station (the filters thus helping avoid my very least favorite thing about RVing).

This amount of fuel capacity increases my travel distance between fuel stops by a factor of four. It allows me to be very choosey about getting the lowest priced fuel and the easiest-to-access stations. And because I have such a large fuel reserve, I can usually pick a time to refuel which is after unhooking the trailer and going to dinner, thus negating the whole difficulty of refueling with a large trailer in tow.

I enjoy traveling a lot more this way.
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Old 02-11-2013, 12:27 AM   #34
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Tomorrow, I take the new Dodge in to swap out the OEM under bed 34 gallon diesel tank for a Titan 56 gallon under bed tank. Thus I do not loose any floor space in the truck bed from an auxiliary tank and the fuel is always being used from the only tank.

The fuel level gage will be accurate, but the on board computer remains unaware of the new gallonage and thus the distance to empty will be incorrect. But there are two trip mileage meters that compensate for that short coming.

My initial challenge is that I drove a Mercedes ML diesel the last 7 years (over 100,000 miles) and the fuel door in on the right side. The Dodge has the fuel door on the left side, so I am still working on thinking about the correct side to be next to the pump and the approach and exit from the pump.
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Old 02-11-2013, 06:29 AM   #35
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We've never had a problem, either - we usually use truck pumps (and it's not unusual for us to go park and eat lunch in the camper there, too - not the best environment amidst all the idling trucks, but we can do much better calorie-wise with our own sandwiches), but I've pulled into a number of regular gas stations without an issue.

I may have extra experience that makes me a bit more confident, though - driving the B190 while towing a car on a dolly, and not being able to back up, I learned a few things about tight gas stations, so the travel trailer - with its ability to back up - seems much easier.
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Old 02-11-2013, 12:18 PM   #36
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I got stuck once where you face the store to fuel. I pulled in and had plenty of room to pull out. But as I was fueling a car parked in front of me at the store. Ugh, waited for them to leave and pulled out before another car parked there.

Now I usually use truck stops and fuel up with the big boys. Yuck...those diesel pumps are dirty...lol

But I will probably always use a diesel now when towing so I have to get used to it. Can't ever see going back to a weak gasoline powered TV.
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Old 02-12-2013, 01:10 AM   #37
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After the new Titan 56 gallon tank was installed today, I drove to a Chevron station within a mile of the local CAT scales. 43 gallons of diesel fuel (about $172) filled the tank in addition to the fuel from the old tank. I now have a new set of scale numbers that include me sitting in the truck and all the modifications to date. I have Cat scale weighed the truck after each modification to try and track where each of the incremental increases to the truck weight came from.

I now have just over 3,000 miles on the Dodge since taking delivery 30 January and the average calculated mpg with no trailer load is half that of the Mercedes. The dream machine in the instrument cluster displays 16 mpg sometimes, but the real numbers are hovering around 14 mpg.

A local independent service shop had some suggestions on how fuel mpg can be really increased. I am not sure I want to go down that path as it would most likely end the warranty on the engine and transmission as a starter. There are other ramifications as well.
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Old 02-12-2013, 01:46 AM   #38
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You will never get better then 17 or 18 mpg. I would not recommend any modifications to your engine. It is so computer controlled, a mod in one place will stress it out some place else. You bought a great truck, don't screw it up with unnecessary mods that WILL void your warranty. Fuel and oil changes, turn the key and enjoy your investment.
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Old 02-12-2013, 03:56 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by switz View Post
A local independent service shop had some suggestions on how fuel mpg can be really increased. I am not sure I want to go down that path as it would most likely end the warranty on the engine and transmission as a starter. There are other ramifications as well.

I know exactly what that shop is suggesting. Lots of reading over on some of the diesel sites that show the mpg increase is hardly worth the other potential issues related to that modification. Only you can deterimine if it is worth it for you, but I wouldn't suggest it.
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Old 02-13-2013, 11:57 AM   #40
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I'm guessing your local shop was referring to "deleting" some emissions components to gain mileage and keep the engine from "making oil". This is about the only way I am aware of for mileage gains besides slowing down. The problem is that after the last presidential election the EPA (economic punishment agency) jumped all over the companies that manufacture the tuner devices with EXTREMELY heavy fines. This is no longer an option.........

Edge Products LLC Settlement | Enforcement | US EPA
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Old 02-14-2013, 12:47 AM   #41
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The more I read about the whiz kids deleting "whatever" to get more power, better mileage, whatever their goal, there is also seems to be a lot of complaints about broken turbochargers, injector issues, blown head gaskets and broken head bolts, transmission issues etc. Seems to be strongly inter related. Years ago, some local farmers turned up the pumps on their diesel tractors. They did not have any way to determine how much they turned up the pump until an axle would break with a stress crack. Then they knew that was too much.

I added an excellent gage system to display what I think are the most important operating parameters at all times on my truck: exhaust gas temperature, turbocharger boost pressure, fuel rail pressure, transmission temperature and rear differential temperature. The factory gages report engine coolant temperature, battery charging and oil pressure along with fuel in the tank.

The two external engine modifications I have in mind are an auxiliary parasitic oil filter to help get the extra crud out of the oil from the regenerations etc and additional fuel filtering for crud, water and entrained air in the fuel. The local Dodge service manager saw no issues in keeping the oil cleaner or the fuel cleaner as both the original oil and fuel filters remain in their respective circuits. I also plan on a 5,000 mile service interval for filters and fluids. That interval worked well for my Mercedes (they recommended a 10,000 mile service interval) as it has 101,000 miles with no engine problems.

A service manager said years ago and it is still true today, "Oil is cheaper than main bearings!" I would rather err on the side of too much service rather than not enough. A third party service shop with an excellent local reputation will probably due the majority of the simple service work on my truck as the service manager/owner's family member drives a Dodge truck that he "tricked out" in the engine department. Most of their customers do not "trick out" their engines.

The HOA rules preclude doing service work on the driveway, so I am limited at what I could do at home.
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Old 02-14-2013, 08:01 PM   #42
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Leaving a truck dead stock is the way to go, IMO. The software is the key to that as there is no way to know what changes an aftermarket tuner actually does (despite claims to the contrary). Those who trade regularly just send off their problem to the next owner . . and then there comes the day that diagnosing the problem is made difficult -- if not impossible -- due to amateur hack work.

This thread is off track from where and how to re-fuel a long combination rig. Maybe a new thread is appropriate, or an old one revived is even more appropriate as to the other concerns.
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