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Old 04-20-2017, 07:33 AM   #57
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Been over Vail pass four times with Airstreams 3 time going west once going East. So you slow to 50 to 55 on a climb no biggie you are still passing semi. A software tune provides a turbo brake on a an ED which mine has so the descent is always drama free. You don't normally even have to use your truck brakes. Almost nobody is having transmission problems with these with the 8 speed mines about to turn 300k towing TT still working fine.

Nothing wrong with using a bigger truck but question was asked about this one. Find max trailer GVWR find your max tow if they match per above set your hitch & load at the scale you will be good. Yes if you max load both truck & trailer you could be a little over CVWR but it's not like you can't carry a more than a reasonable amount of stuff between truck & trailer. If you have a load such as a quad in your bed plus the AS which would take you over axle then yes by all means get HD you need more truck for your load.
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Old 04-20-2017, 11:47 AM   #58
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Originally Posted by Mergatroyd View Post
Your WD hitch will transfer around 1/3 of the tongue load from the hitch ball to the trailer axles, so your trailer will add only 800 lbs to the truck's payload.


Thanks for that info
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Old 04-20-2017, 08:37 PM   #59
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At the CAT scales our hitched and heavily loaded Airstream adds 800 lbs to our Ram, we have a ProPride hitch and two Grp 31XT AGM (originals Grp 24 AGM) batteries in the battery box. We don't have a Shurline scale, no need for it, the CAT scale tells us what we need to know.

trumpet guy, next time you're loaded and hitched for a trip, run it over a CAT scale along the way and see what your Airstream and individual axle loads are, compare them to the GAWR (axle load rating, they will be 3900 lbs GAWR each) on the drivers door jamb plaque and see what you have.
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Old 04-21-2017, 02:16 AM   #60
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Originally Posted by VernDiesel View Post
... Nothing wrong with using a bigger truck but question was asked about this one...

You're right. I re-read my post and I've got to admit that everything is a compromise... you've just got to be able to live with the choices you make.
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Old 04-21-2017, 08:58 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AirMiles View Post
http://www.hannafords.ca/used/Ford/2...ac52ae7e61.htm

Go to the above link, scroll through the pictures until you see the yellow "Tire and Loading Information" sticker, there you will see the "the combined weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed 851 kg or 1877 lbs".

A picture of the tire and loading sticker is included for every truck in inventory.
That's good information. I don't know if other dealers are putting photos of actual vehicle loading labels on their websites. I'd like to see GMC and Ram dealers doing that, too.
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Old 04-21-2017, 10:26 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AirMiles View Post
http://www.hannafords.ca/used/Ford/2...ac52ae7e61.htm

Go to the above link, scroll through the pictures until you see the yellow "Tire and Loading Information" sticker, there you will see the "the combined weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed 851 kg or 1877 lbs".

A picture of the tire and loading sticker is included for every truck in inventory.
**********************

I did not even look at the photos! Every dealer should do this. You are so right. Our '15 F150 supercab Lariat with V8 has a sticker payload of 2031 lbs. That diesel engine is mighty heavy and of course all the goodies in a Platinum add a lot of weight. I had a '99 F350 with the 7.3 powerstroke and it had a payload around 3800 lbs. It was just a XLT and manual 6 spd. Seems crazy to me to buy a $70K truck that will tow more than you will ever need and have a payload less than a ton! Thanks for the reply.
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Old 04-21-2017, 02:05 PM   #63
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I have a Ram 1500...and so does my buddy....an almost identical truck...but his 20" wheels/tires reduce his hauling capacity almost by ONE THIRD of my 17" wheels. Ram charts demonstrate that sort of thing also. Don't think that buying big, ghetto wheels that you are improving truck performance.
Oh no, my 2012 Tundra had 17 or 18" steel wheels. I was able to swap them for some 20" wheels and tires for a pretty good price. The truck looks better, not getto at all, but that might all be in the eye of the beholder.

I sure didn't realize I was decreasing my payload by 33%!! I wonder why? I believe the tires have the same weight ratings.
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Old 04-21-2017, 03:36 PM   #64
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I sure didn't realize I was decreasing my payload by 33%!! I wonder why? I believe the tires have the same weight ratings.
You weren't necessarily doing so.

It depends on the rating of the wheel, and the rating of the tire. Either can be a limiting factor, depending on the specific situation.
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Old 04-21-2017, 06:10 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GettinAway View Post
Oh no, my 2012 Tundra had 17 or 18" steel wheels. I was able to swap them for some 20" wheels and tires for a pretty good price. The truck looks better, not getto at all, but that might all be in the eye of the beholder.

I sure didn't realize I was decreasing my payload by 33%!! I wonder why? I believe the tires have the same weight ratings.
You're right, if the tires have the same weight ratings, their load capacity is the same. The low profile 20" wheels/tires actually perform very well for towing. Air them up to max sidewall pressure for towing our FC 25, very little sidewall movement side-to-side stabilizes sway forces from the trailer. We've used them on our Ram's the last six years towing extensively, I like the ride, handling and stability.

Ghetto wheels huh?
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Old 04-21-2017, 06:21 PM   #66
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I have 20" wheels from the factory and payload wasn't impacted. They do look a little ghetto though.
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Old 04-21-2017, 07:47 PM   #67
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The way the 20s will decrease your payload is by being heavier you are closer to your GVWR. So IF each 20 is 10 pounds heavier than the 17s you would start out 40 pounds closer to GVWR. I have 20s & called Goodyear techline when I was looking to replace the original tires & was surprised when he said the max inflation is 44psi per the sidewall but max load rating is at 39 psi. Lots of TT towing in short time periods also showed better wear less blowouts & surprisingly better stability at 39 then 44. In part less rounding side to side of the tread surface. I now run one up from standard load rating to XL load rating. It's a max 51 psi tire that I run at 44 for the same reason. Lots of people run E loads at 55 or 60 when not towing then bump it up when towing without going to 80 psi where it shortens treadlife.
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Old 04-21-2017, 09:16 PM   #68
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I tow with 2014 ram 3.92 gear, 5.7 hemi my rig is a 2017 28 flying cloud no problem
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Old 04-21-2017, 11:55 PM   #69
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Flht2k, Any camp ready scale numbers? And what hitch and bars do you use?
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Old 04-22-2017, 05:47 AM   #70
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CURT MV Round Bar Weight Distribution Hitch #17052

This is what I use, opinions may differ, but this setup levels the trailer, it breaks fine. Remember, this trailer ways about 5800 lb, I travel with very little water maybe 10gal,propane tanks filled. Also, all the weight is at the rear, behind both axles. The rear of the truck has chairs and a cooler and we have a golden retriever. I may not be this educated engineering type, but it is a #6600 , my TV capacity is 10600. I don't even worry about
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