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Old 03-15-2011, 08:52 AM   #1
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1963 22' Safari
New Braunfels , Texas
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 3
Questions - Ordering 2011 F150 Ecoboost

Greetings all!

This is my first post...been reading these pages for months.

Back in January, bought a 1963 Safari that I'm having totally redone - should be ready by mid-summer. (fingers crossed!)

Now...gotta get the TV. I've decided to order a 2011 F150 SuperCrew with the 3.5L V6 Ecoboost, 3.73 axle ratio with tow package, etc. are my questions...
1) What bedlength will be best? The 6.5ft or 5.5ft. I'm thinking the 6.5 will give me more room, but I read on a Ford forum that the shorter bed might be better for towing..any thoughts?
2) How many miles should I break the truck in before towing? I see that 1,000 is a consistent thought...
3) Hitches - looking at the Reese Straight Line Hitch High Performance Dual Cam Sway Control (from ProPride - don't think I'll need a PP but they have it where you can upgrade if needed). Thoughts on this?

Any other suggestions or thoughts are appreciated!

Can't wait to start STREAMIN'!!!!

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Old 03-15-2011, 08:58 AM   #2
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1967 30' Sovereign
Los Lunas , New Mexico
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,333
Greetings, KerryFO, and welcome to the forums! I'm sure you will find lots of opinions and tips here in our home!\

I'll give you my 2c worth (and that's really what it's worth):

1. I'd go with the longer bed. The idea is to have a tow vehicle that is less susceptible to being controlled by the trailer rather than the other way around.

2. Check with Ford on break-in. Some companies want it; others say it's not necessary.

3. Not even a penny's worth of info from me on hitches!


WBCCI 21043
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Old 03-15-2011, 09:21 AM   #3
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2017 30' Classic
Loretto , Ontario
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Go with the longer bed. Its far more usefull. As for break-in, its best to put at least 1000 miles on it before you tow or use full throtle.
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Old 03-15-2011, 09:50 AM   #4
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2012 30' International
Walkerton , Virginia
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Welcome to the Forums and good luck with your new rig.

Somebody, please, point me to the road.

AIR 3987
wbcci 9239 (Re-enlisted 2013)
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Old 03-15-2011, 10:48 AM   #5
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2007 31' Classic
Pulaski , Tennessee
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If you are ordering a Super Crew (I assume this is a crew cab) I would go with the shorter bed. This will give you more flexibility in parking and a tighter turning radius. With the crew cab and short bed you will have a longer truck than a standard cab with long bed. I had this same decision when I bought my F250. I went with the CC and short bed. Best decision I could make.

Your owners manual or dealer should be able to advise you on break in.

I use neither of these hitches. Instead I have a Blue Ox. With my setup it handles great but a F250 will be quite different than the F150.
Steve & Beth
AIR 22763
07' Classic 31, 11' Dodge 3500 Cummins
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Old 03-15-2011, 01:58 PM   #6
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2007 23' Safari SE
Central , Connecticut
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Just throwing this out there - I'd make the decision on bed length based on maneuverability and bed utility, not towing stability. Keep in mind that you're towing a rather lightweight 1960s 22' Safari; any F-150 (especially a Supercrew) will have plenty of wheelbase here.

I'm not even sure I'd get the 3.73 gearing/max tow package - even a 3.5-liter Ecoboost F-150 Supercrew with the base 3.31 gearing and the "regular" tow package tows over 8000 lbs. (Of course, if you're considering a bigger trailer down the road...)

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Old 03-15-2011, 02:43 PM   #7
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Knoxville , Tennessee
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My TV is a short wheel base because my wife drives it when we are not towing and we liked the swb better. I use the Reese straight line dual cam hitch and am very satisfiied with it. I tow a 25 and a 32 with it. lots of my friends use the Hensly. That is because one of them had a wreck they thought was caused by uncrontrolled sway, so they all bought them.
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Old 03-17-2011, 07:56 AM   #8
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1963 22' Safari
New Braunfels , Texas
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 3
Thanks for the feedback!

Thank you to all those that replied! Your help is greatly I just have to twiddle my thumbs until my Airstream is ready!

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Old 03-26-2011, 12:11 PM   #9
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1994 30' Excella
Mississauga , Ontario
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The rear overhang(distance from back wheels to hitch) is the same with both bed lengths.
Manual says 1000 miles before towing.
Ps. I have one on order as well.
Al and Jean

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Old 03-26-2011, 01:15 PM   #10
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Best hitch is always cheap. Rear overhang (as above) only concern worth noting. But the longer bed is a lot more useful.

Good luck

1990 35' Silver Streak Sterling; 9k GVWR.
2004 DODGE Cummins 305/555; 6-manual; 9k GVWR.
Hensley Arrow. 10-cpm solo, 18-cpm towing
Sold: Silver Streak Model 3411
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Old 03-26-2011, 02:57 PM   #11
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2007 31' Classic
Kansas City , Missouri
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Big mirrors that adjust from the inside. Mud flaps or Rock Tamers!!!!! Rear-window defroster. Bed liner. Bed cover. Steps. Serious mats. Spanner wrench. Breaker bar with a six-point socket for the lugs. Torque wrench that goes up to the truck tire requirements. High-quality tire pressure gauge. Transmission oil temperature gauge. Four-wheel drive. Lastly, get the towing package and the biggest V-8 you can.
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Old 03-26-2011, 03:25 PM   #12
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1999 34' Excella
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You should be able to tow the 22' Safari with the package you have selected. I also suggest the V8 in lieu of the V6. Fuel economy will not be any better with the V6 and a V8 will hold up longer with the stresses of towing.
1) Bedsize, the larger the better for taking things with you. But larger= harder to manuver.
2) Follow the manufacturers instructions regarding the break in befor towing as a minimum, but more milage is better.
3) I have owned and personally do not like the dual cam system. I prefer the old type of load distribution hitch with seperate sway control. When an Airstream trailer the size of your 22' trailer is loaded properly, sway control is (IMO) not a big deal.
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Old 03-27-2011, 07:30 AM   #13
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Garden Valley , Idaho
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If available on the F-150 I would also add the snowplow option as it will add additional front end springs, shocks and a larger tranny cooler all for $80. I know you can order this on the F-250/350 but not sure on the F-150.
2008 F-250 4X4 Lariat V-10
2002 Airstream Classic 30' w/SO #2074
2007 Kubota 900 RTV
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Old 03-27-2011, 01:39 PM   #14
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Rockville , Maryland
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I would skip the "Snow Plow" package even if it was available. The front springs are not needed since the majority of the weight is still on the back axel - although with a weight distribution hitch you will be attempting to "project" some of that forward. Unless you were purchasing a camper that would reside in the bed of the truck (or were adding a heavy snow plow to the front) then those added front springs would only be "lowering the performance and handling" of the truck by adding that unnecessary capacity to the front suspension.

Same for tranny cooler - your new truck as configured from the factory is designed to tow - said rating built into the cooling of the existing engine package - unless you were going to be at 100% of your tow capacity (in this instance you have a comfortable margin) - even in the hot desserts uphill fully loaded, you will be fine.

Just because something is a few dollars more for what appears to be "more options & capacity" - unless your vehicle and "NEEDS" require said appointments, you may actually be taking away "performance & handling" from what your truck was originally designed for... .

Have Fun with your new truck!!!

John "JFScheck" Scheck
2014 Itasca Solei 34T in Red Maple
Freightliner XCS Chassis with Cummins 6.7 ISB & Allison MH Transmission
**I Love U.S.A.**
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