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Old 07-20-2015, 01:21 PM   #161
Tom T
 
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Question Any Cayenne Owners in Philly/No.DE or Daytona Bch?

Are there any Cayenne Owners in Philly/No.DE or Daytona Bch that could look at one FS for me & tell me if condition is worth pursuing & doing a full PPI?
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Orange CA
1960 Avion T20, #2 made, Hensley Cub, TV tbd- looking for 08-22 Cayenne S, EH, etc
1988 VW Vanagon Westfalia CamperGL (Orig Owner) + 1970 Eriba Puck
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Old 07-20-2015, 03:39 PM   #162
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Thanks! I know. They do look. Once the local ones get used to seeing you drive sanely its not so bad. I have a few Chips friends. Out on the road the rule is don't lead the pack. Drive 5 over. Use a Valentine one radar detector for bug open stretches!

One interesting statistic. Silver cars draw the most tickets. Don't know if thats adjusted fir relative numbers on the road.

Good luck in your search. Your car is out there.


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Old 07-20-2015, 07:31 PM   #163
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Oh yea, pictures.....

Attachment 243400Attachment 243401


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Looking sharp! You should have no issues with the 23 (in my opinion) without mods. Take some time to get the rig level and enjoy.
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Old 07-20-2015, 09:14 PM   #164
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Love the color - inside as well!
Will be sharp looking with the silver airstream following.

Good point about the super troopers, reminds me of the classic line: "Is there anything wrong mit mine Porsche?"
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Old 07-22-2015, 02:52 PM   #165
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Tom_T you are the bomb!!

thanks for all your knowledge.
also thanks to the others on this thread. the info is invaluable.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom_T View Post
Vinstream... Thanx on the color info!

Is the R50 designation for the VW "R Line" 5.0 & including other special equipment & options beyond the standard Taureg V10? If built on the Porsche line, does it then also incorporate the Cayenne spec suspension, brakes, etc. as an R50 spec T-reg? Please educate me!

I'm guessing that your T-reg R50 V10 sold for about the same sticker price as a top of the line Cayenne Turbo S with comparable options/standard equipment sets on both - correct?

I agree that the Taureg V10 was an option loaded special vehicle from VW in the Taureg line-up, & will probably end up being one of those highly desirable collectable models featured in the 2025 Vintage Tow Vehicles thread on here, as well as appreciating in value. I'm sure it & the Phaeton will be much like the Westfalias, 19/21/23 window splitty buses, etc. are today - as future high value collector cars!

I would've never expected our 1988 VW Vanagon CamperGL Westfalia which was the most expensive Vanagon at the time & had a $28,000+/- sticker price new (I only paid $22,500-ish thru good negotiating), to be valued today in restored form in the $50-70,000+/- range!

So I strongly recommend that you keep it ...forever... pass it along to kids/etc., & not let it be one of the cars 20+ years from now that you wished you'd kept!


ALL... Notes on V10 5.0 TDI vs V6 3.0 TDI in C/T/Qs:

For those looking for diesel fuel efficiency in the V10 TTDI Tauregs - they were about the same mpg as the Porsche 4.5L V8 & VW 4.2L V8 Gassers - so you're buying them for monstrous torque (see below) & top of the line features.

They were available on Tauregs from 2004-08 & then the VW V6 TDI came out in 2009> I think - the latter of which is the fuel efficient option. But the price premium & added maintenance costs on diesels makes the fuel savings hard to recoup in purchase price, over a V8 gasser even then. So you can find reasonably priced used VW Tauregs from 2009-11, then their prices climb rapidly to the new car levels.

Whereas, Porsche didn't bring their V6 TDI to the US/Can until 2013, so they are still high in the $50-60,000+ range & are even harder to justify the extra $20-30,000 over a 2008-10 Cayenne S gas V8 for towing.

If you're looking new, then the V6 TDI is a relatively cost effective option - over the gas V8's in all 3 - Taureg, Cayenne & Q7 lines - for TV duty.

BTW - I'm using "TTDI" sometimes to reflect that some are "twin turbo diesel injected" - although the general VW/Audi/Porsche parlance is usually just "TDI" in most cases.

For us adding a 3rd car TV & others in a similar situation - it doesn't make sense to spend new car nor recent used prices for a vehicle to sit in our driveway & get used maybe 3-6000 miles per year (currently we only put about 5,200 mi on BOTH our DD cars COMBINED per year).

So the used Cayenne S V8 is our choice poison, although I would jump on a nice low mile Taureg V10 TDI if one came along!


Ohiobrits...

That was the exact YouTube video with Taureg V10 TDI vs. Chevy 2500 HD V8 TDI (I thought it was a Dodge) to which I was referring in my post above! Imagine that type of "pull off" with an AS or vintage kin in tow on a side-by-side drag strip or road course!

I too think that the V8 TTDI Cayenne Turbo Diesel S - the Euro/RoW V8 TDI to which I referred in post #115 - with the air suspension & other usual Porsche tweaks would give Vin's R50 V10 a run for the money performance-wise.

But IIRC the Porsche Cayenne Turbo Diesel S V8 TTDI TQ is about 805 lb/ft, whereas the Taureg V10 TTDI is over 1000 - so that V10 T-reg would still win their pull-off! ... by a shade anyway!


Timhortons...

I agree on the VW fit & finish issues vs. Audi & Porsche! VW's problem is that the bean counters equate "Lux" with more profit, but NOT with commensurate quality & quality control!

I also agree that the brand sharing of platforms increases the ultimate quality & reliability of all sharing a platform, as well as possible parts sharing - or at least in a pinch in Podunk wherever lacking the Audi or Porsche dealership or independent shop, in a pinch!

Yes, the new 2011> Series 3 Cayenne lost about 7-800# also, as did the Tauregs, although perhaps only 5-600# on them.

And yes, that is a different Porsche Tiptronic gearbox - but it too is an 8-spd. You must be thinking of the new 7-spd PDK dual clutch (automatic clutch) stick shift (not really a manual), which was introduced for SUV/CUV use in the new for 2015 Macan line.

The downside on the newest Cayenne S is that the V8 is now a purely Porsche made 3.6L V6 TTI gasser from the Macan Turbo S (Macan S is a purely Porsche 3.0L TTI), so the V8 is now only on Cayenne Turbo & up gasser models. It's got great TQ down to about 1250 or 1850 rpm, so it will be competent, but may tend to run at higher revs while towing, than the prior 4.8L naturally aspirated V8s - especially on grades (& the higher than 55 mph towing speed that we're not supposed to exceed in CA & many other states ;-).

Yes, the Canadian market seems to get "special treatment" when it comes to car pricing. However, I think that if you add on options on the VW & Audi cousins to the comparable Cayenne - which often has a standard set of "included" options or features, which also increase with each sub-model/engine - then some or much of that $10kCAN differential goes away.

Offsetting that with all 3 makers, is when they force you to buy another option or option package, in order to get the ONE option you really want! A rear backup camera is a great example of that BS in our area of needs/wants for towing, & it is beyond me why 3 self-described luxury car makers do not include that feature as standard base equipment on ALL C/T/Q vehicles - period! Bloody stupid IMHO!

Therefore, for anyone looking at the buying one of 3 new, I would strongly suggest listing what equipment & features you really want & need + colors, interior, etc. - then go to each manufacturers' website to use their active "build your car" feature to compare them in actual cost to get your desired "package" between the 3 makes - then go negotiate!

If you really do need the 3rd row added seating - whether for your towing time, or in it's "off duty" time as your "car" - then skip the Cayenne & Taureg, & concentrate on the Audi, & perhaps the 3 row BMW X5 (I don't think the ML350/550/320TDI offers a 3rd row) for your Luxo Euro TV alternatives.

I really didn't research the Audi Q7 option much myself, for several reasons, & these are considerations for other folks looking at the Euro TV options:

1.) We're now empty nesters & don't need a 3rd row seating for a crowd;

2.) We didn't want the extra 10-14" +/- of length the 3rd row requires to further complicate our tight street & driveway situation;

3.) The Audi Q7 weighs more than the other 2 cousins - due to the added weight of that 3rd row & extra body length also reduces the Q7's max. tow rating proprtionately - relative to the ratings of the comparable year/engine Taureg & Cayenne (7716# & 700# on they years we're looking at buying used);

4.) The softer & more compliant ride settings for the Audi, vs. a more sporty & stiffer Cayenne (or Taureg), which is both more fun on a Porsche Club event, but also better resistance in towing use;

5.) We are looking for the smallest possible mid-size SUV with a V8 package due to our tight driveway & street conditions, plus my wife's reluctance to drive anything bigger than "her cute little happy van" (Westy).


kevinkatz...

I've included a bunch of info relevant to your post, in my replies above - intentionally so. Here's some more food for thought...

What I've found in my researching the same "how to service a Cayenne on the road" dilemma, is that there is enough similarity, that a VW or Audi dealer or independent shop could service the Cayenne in a pinch - at least enough to get you to the next big town with a Porsche dealership or Indie shop. The BMW & MBZ franchiises don't have that advantage - & it's even less so for the Land Rovers, to add another Euro TV not mentioned here to date.

There are some parts of the USA & Canada where none of the Euro brands are common even in 2015, so there could be situations where something happens with your X5 or any of these, depending on how actively Murphy's Law is working that day!

In any of the cases for the Euro TVs, I think you're well served to buy to top tier AAA Premier or other roadside assistance plans with the 100, 200, ++ mile towing benefits.

Likewise, the Fidelity Extended Warranty has been recommended to me by several C & T owners for cars not on a CPO, since they apparently underwrite the VW CPO's in the USA (& maybe Audi & Porsche too).

Fidelity Warranty Services - Home Page

As for your target of 4-5 years old, depending on your intended use profile, mileage & how long you'd keep it - I'd suggest that your target age or perhaps new could be broadened a bit.

If you plan to trade in or sell off 2 cars - Cayman & X5 - then you may get your net cost down into used car territory - even on a new Cayenne etc. If you're a car keeper like me, then the drop doesn't really hurt unless you get in an accident in the first few years & insurance only pays you for your depreciated ACV value (my only 2 new cars ever are the 88 Westy & 85 BMW 325e - both of which I still own & the Westy at least is worth more now than new).

However, I don't like to "lose" 20-25-30% of the value when I drive a new car off the dealer's lot, so I personally think that a slightly used 1-2 year old PCNA staff or dealer demo Cayenne is a good option (ditto for VW, Audi, etc.).

I've made my case in this & other similar topics on these Euro haulers, that I think the Cayenne S V8 or GTS/Turbo/Turbo S are the best options for a sportier driving in daily non-tow mode & for car club driving treks, than the others (except that Taureg R50 V10 & V10 comes close, but the newest is 2008).

Likewise, you can look beyond the 4-5 year old window which you mention - & instead broaden it a bit based on some maximum mileage with which you're comfortable driving - given your profile. So the 4-5 year is now a 2010-2011 & soon to be 2011-12 come the Fall 2016 release.

But with the Cayenne for example - the Series 2 2008-10 are all pretty similar, so you could consider any of them under say 40, 50, 0r 60,000 miles - so long as they have documented service records for everything which needs done on them by miles & wear & factory maintenance (same for any make).

If you were to look at <2008 in the C/T/Q trio V8s (V6 & TDI will have their own quirks to verify were fixed too), then you'll need to make sure that the plastic coolant pipes were updated to metal, ignition coils were updated (all 8 of them) per the factory specs & service bulletins, & that the front lower control arms/bushings (@ +/-40-60k miles), & cardan shift/mid-bearing (driveshaft - @ +/-40-100k miles), timing chain tensioners & water pumps (@ +/-40-100k miles) were all done if & when needed (these items are not disimilar to the Cayman/Boxster/996/997 IMS issue, with which I'm sure you're familiar).

Those 2 update issues were all fixed on the 2008> Cayenne V8 models with their new 4.8L, but the other wear items above are still an issue on all C/T/Q models/years.


In addition to the other BMW, MBZ, etc. options - for your relatively light weight 17' AS Caravel - you may also want to consider one of the new Porsche Macans &/or the cousin Audi Q5/S5 - as more of a close match to something between your Cayman & X5 TDI, & possibly more fun in non-TV mode than a Cayenne.

The Macan S (3.0L TTI) & Macan Turbo S (3.6L TTI) & the soon to be released in North America Macan S Diesel (3.0L TTDI out since March 2015 in Europe/UK) are all rated at 4400+ lbs. for towing (don't recall the HW rating), & all have their TQ kicking in low enough at 1250-1850 rpm

I'm not sure about the Audi Q5 ratings & engines, except that their S5 is the closest to the Macan S, so worth looking into as well.

I was able to price out a new Macan S - at about the same expected $45,000+/- starting price as the Macan Diesel - with my desired options for the $52-55,000 range & not far off of a new base Taureg V6 TDI! But my wife wanted more rear storage room, so we went back to the `06-`10/`11 Cayenne S plan (see the 928 comments below).

You'll have less net useful load & cargo room on those Macan/S5 - than on the Cayenne, Taureg & Q7 (latter doesn't seem your style anyway), but they are smaller, lower slung & drive more sports car-like, than the C/T/Q trio.

So I'd suggest doing some research on both your towing & non-towing needs & desires relative to those cars, & then go out & have a bunch of fun test drives - including going out on a test run hitched to your Caravel with any final contenders - to make you decision.

Then you can decide if you want to try new, or at least know more what to try out for the used cars in your 4-5 year old range, & make a used

Also note that I was originally hoping to make a Porsche `86.5 928S or `87-89 928S4 with it's 4200+ lb. tow rating work for our little Avion + more fun classic car GT cruiser 3rd car! .... oh well, I lost that one to my wife's desire for "real back seats & more storage room"!

Pre-89 Porsches can qualify for cheaper classic car insurance with most companies offering it, but only certain ones also allow daily driver level of usage & more miles, so look at several to compare (Panorama, Excellence, Hemmings Sports & Exotics magazines all have ads for those collector car insurance companies).

But you could probably make it work for your Caravel!
...see 928 & Macan pix below - note the factory hitch/connector at the rear shot (Macan sideview was shown at prior post above)....

And before anyone chides me for including the 928 in a Euro SUV topic, the fact is that the Porsche 928 - while a GT - was factory TUV (German DOT) rated to tow 4200+ lbs for travel trailers - only about 200# shy of the new Macan's 4400+ lbs.!

So since there were no pre-2003 versions of the C/T/Q trio - I say that the factory tow rated 1978-95 V8 powered 928 line WAS & IS that predecessor of the pre-SUV/CUV era, & therefore not OT!

Cheers!
Tom
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Old 07-23-2015, 01:43 PM   #166
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Hi, I just got a 27 International Serenity FB and plan to tow with our 2012 Touareg TDI. I am about to go pick up the hitch that I have researched to death I think but have settled on the Blue Ox with 1000 lb bars. Hope its the right choice as supose to have built in sway control. The airstream dealer in Seattle seemed to really like the Blue Ox. Any feedback welcome. Thanks, Murray
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Old 07-24-2015, 03:59 PM   #167
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Hello, I tow a 25FB with an Audi Q7 TDI and a Blue Ox 1K bars. Works great! I am very happy.
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Old 07-25-2015, 10:56 AM   #168
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Ok, great to know. I am a bit concerned with how far the ball will be from my receiver tip (12"). Im trying to find out if that is an issue before I install it. Murray
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Old 07-26-2015, 01:22 PM   #169
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Ok, great to know. I am a bit concerned with how far the ball will be from my receiver tip (12"). Im trying to find out if that is an issue before I install it. Murray
Andy T at CanAm usually recco's it being as close as possible to the rear axle & bumper, so you might want to scroll up to one of his posts on here & PM or email him on the question. 12" seems like a really long tow bar to me!

I'm using a Hensley Cub with a stinger, so it's a completely different set-up than yours, but I've also "towed on ball" in the past & don't recall any of them being 12" back from the receiver.

Cheers!
Tom
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Old 07-26-2015, 01:34 PM   #170
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Originally Posted by WaLee View Post
Oh yea, pictures.....

Attachment 243400Attachment 243401

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WaLee -

I don't know what mileage your 06 CS-TI has on it, but did you check if the coolant pipes update, ignition coils update, front lower control arms/bushings & cardan shaft/mid-bearing were done on it?

(latter usually 2 show up +/- 40k mi & 60-100k +/- mi respectively)

If you don't mind, I'd appreciate it if you could PM or email me with that info & the mileage & price you got yours for, for my reference as a recent sales comp.

I've some good prospects in our color, so recent sales & the other info would be helpful, but no worries if you don't want to disclose.

Thanx!
Tom
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Old 07-26-2015, 02:01 PM   #171
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Ok, great to know. I am a bit concerned with how far the ball will be from my receiver tip (12"). Im trying to find out if that is an issue before I install it. Murray


Here is our CanAm modified Easylift receiver/ball piece. It is very tight.

Click image for larger version

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Old 08-11-2015, 12:05 PM   #172
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We are towing a 2015 23FB with a 2014 VW Touareg TDi and loving it. No problems on hills, be they long or short/curvy. On our drive from Vancouver, BC to the SF Bay Area and back in March we averaged about 15 miles/US gal (14.9 l/100 km).

You are right the Cayenne and Touareg are pretty much the same, except for sticker price. One of us drives a Carrera and we thought it would it would be fun if the other drove a Cayenne, but we couldn't find a used one that would do the trick.
Can you share which weight distribution system you have and which brake controller.
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Old 08-14-2015, 09:48 AM   #173
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Thanks Jerry -

Yes, after a first panic attach, we are back to "normal"

Checking car dealerships was no fun and nothing was convincing.

After contemplating we will look into making some of the mods (ohiobrits: battery and inverter relocation) and LT tires, ditching the spare. I will give Andy a call tomorrow. I somehow hope that a local hitch shop will be able to fabricate the pipe (it requires some special equipment for bending I think), or perhaps CanAm can ship it (unsure). The goal is to bring the tongue weight down to the Cayenne specs and to use a light weight WD hitch (not the EqualiZer that we currently have) so that we are not only safe from the point of view of many but also safe from any liability issues.
What is it that you don't like about the Equalizer? My dealer is talking me into installing it on my Touareg and a 23 ft Airstream. He said Reese with cams is too heavy and ProPride would be overkill?
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Old 08-14-2015, 11:00 AM   #174
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What is it that you don't like about the Equalizer? My dealer is talking me into installing it on my Touareg and a 23 ft Airstream. He said Reese with cams is too heavy and ProPride would be overkill?
Hi Lia,

Equalizer was one recommended by the vintage trailer resto guy who helped us with the Avion purchase & set-up, & others we've met have liked Blue-Ox, Reese, etc. for their own reasons. So you may get all sorts of folks' likes & dislikes on any & all of them, but best to go by what folks say who actually used them (I haven't so I cannot).

However, as to your guy's advice on the ProPride (similar to Hensley in design & operation & I did seriously look at it too) - with the 4500-4600-ish gross trailer wt. you'd mentioned elsewhere, both the ProPride & Hensley Arrow would be overkill at a 10,000 lb rating & in the mid-$2000 price range. However, they won't make any big mark-up on either ProPride nor Hensley & most I found were very reluctant to sell them for that reason - but the Hensley Cub should fit your needs perfectly for only a little more than a top of the line Equalizer, Blue Ox, Centerline, etc. WD hitch with the Anti-sway included/added. .... IF you want to consider it & have them install it for you, of course.

For that type of PPP hitch you'll only need the Hensley Cub good for up to 6000# GTVW & 600# HW for the mid-teen-$1000s - unless your 23D has a GTVW over 6000#, as well as a number of other "traditional" WD hitches in the $800-1200+/- range with anti-sway (either integral or added on depending upon the design of each) - whereas the base level Cub with the same tensioner chains set-up (vs. jacks) & ostensibly better anti-sway control/elimination will only run $1300-ish.

So not a huge difference pricewise there & no overkill IMHO, & well worth considering a Cub - vs. IIRC you said the dealer wanted $1000 or $1200 for the Equalizer.

Call Andy T. too for his 3rd party opinion, since he knows them all & isn't trying to sell you something, like your dealer is (the latter may have better profit on the other hitches & lean their recco's). Terry Powell at Hensley may have some deals on their Cubs he can give you for a break on pricing as well, so worth a call to him too.

I've already given what I liked about the Cub & the $15-1600 I paid was worth the +2-400 over the other WD+AS options for our Avion.

If you got the single axle 23' AS, then you may want to go a little higher on the anti-sway scale for stability & safety's sake (as we did with ours). The single axles can turn & maneuver easier & tighter than dual or triple axle trailers, but can be a little more squirelly at high speeds too due to that benefit.

I don't know if I mentioned it before, but in either case for axle count, the Hensley/PP ones will also generally give you a tighter turning radius than the other typical WD hitches, which I've found very helpful in a few tight RV spaces & other times trying to back, turn around, & otherwise maneuver our rig.

You'll get it figured out & there's lots of folks willing to help on here & in your local FL & NJ Airstream clubs, etc.

I'm not trying to push my nor any hitch, but just trying to clarify some misconceptions relayed by your AS dealer on them, & encouraging you to consider all options & continue to talk to folks with other WD/AS hitch options as well, as you're doing above.

PS - IIRC from a guy who worked for a local SoCal AS dealer here, when we were chatting trailer stuff recently, he said that they have some special distribution deals with certain hitch makers, & I think that Equalizer was one of them, but not Reese. So that may be why your guy is downplaying the Reese with cams, cuz I know at least some folks are using them successfully with the <25' AS & other TTs + Touareg/Cayenne/Q7 TVs on here & at the vintage trailer rallies where we go.

Good Luck!
Tom
///////
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Old 08-21-2015, 06:59 PM   #175
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I have an 06 23 footer with a propride on it. The listed tongue wt for the trailer is just a few pounds out if the sticker. (Without thePP). Should i be concerned? Been using the truck to tow but want to setup the Cayenne. 06 cayenne

Would switching to a hensley cub make more sense overall? I bought the ProPride used and could get out of it what i paid for it.


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Old 08-22-2015, 09:15 AM   #176
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Originally Posted by WaLee View Post
I have an 06 23 footer with a propride on it. The listed tongue wt for the trailer is just a few pounds out if the sticker. (Without thePP). Should i be concerned? Been using the truck to tow but want to setup the Cayenne. 06 cayenne

Would switching to a hensley cub make more sense overall? I bought the ProPride used and could get out of it what i paid for it.


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WaLee, in my opinion you have already bought the best hitch money can buy if safety and sway avoidance are the primary concerns. The cub is lighter (not sure of the exact values) and will provide the same safety and security as the PP however there are a few things to consider when comparing the two:-

Tongue weight and trailer weight are limited for the Cub. Make very sure your AS does not exceed those values. AS are typically heavier on the tongue than the catalogue value.
Many people upsize AS if they start small. This may be you down the road. If you have the Cub, you will be upgrading the hitch as well and having lived with a PPP hitch, your upgrade would almost certainly be another PPP hitch = $$$$
With the PP you are adding about 100lbs to the tongue compared to a conventional hitch with some form of sway control. The Cub is still heavy, probably still adds 50 or 60 lbs over a conventional hitch. For that amount of weight saving (PP to Cub) I'd not bother.
The Cayenne receiver is rated to 616 lbs tongue weight (today), it was rated to 771 lbs a few years ago. There was a long discussion on Club Touareg about why the rating was changed without any conclusion (the hitch on the VW and Porsche are the same). If you have an older Cayenne it may well be rated to 771 - check your manual.
You can reinforce the receiver - details above. For a 23 it's a toss up to reinforce or not (in my opinion). With a 23 and PP (or Hensley) I'd recommend reinforcement. The PPP hitches add tongue weight and do not transfer weight when applying WD as easily as conventional hitches due to the hitch geometry which means you will be cranking on a decent amount of WD load to get things balanced. The reinforcement makes the receiver more able to handle the upward moment that results when WD is applied.

In summary, since you have the PP I'd stick with it. I'd recommend that you consider hitch reinforcement if you plan on racking up some serious miles and keeping the combo for a while. The Cayenne is a very capable TV and from a chassis point of view will handle the 23 and PP tongue weight with ease. If you did not have the PP, a well set up Eaz-Lift with sway control (about 100lbs lighter tongue) would probably have been my choice for a 23 but I would not go back to that arrangement from where you are.

If you can, take your setup to a scale and dial in the WD and AS loading. If you are not sure what to do, ask here. If you do not have access to scales, there are some good instructions (I think posted above) on how to set up a WD hitch using wheel well measurements which works well. Once fine tuned, you will have a spectacular combination. Even without, you already have a superior combination than the majority of people out there.

Enjoy!
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Old 08-22-2015, 07:22 PM   #177
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Loose hitch in receiver.

In case any of the Toureg, Q7, Cayenne crowd have a loose hitch in their receiver (terrible affliction), here is a pretty easy fix that seems to work pretty well.

My PP stinger was originally very tight in the receiver on my Cayenne but has developed a bit of free play over time. It occasionally makes a noise during slow corners as the stinger shifts in the receiver which can be a bit annoying given that the PP is otherwise silent in operation. Got the idea from another thread on here about welding on the hitch shaft, there were a few people on that thread that were using shims instead. Here is what I did.

Using 18 ga steel sheet (Lowes) cut out a piece using tin snips that is about 6" long and 3.5" wide, fold if using a hammer and a block of wood (or preferably a vice if you have one) along the length. Insert into the receiver with about 1/2" protruding with one side vertical, the other across the top. Put a cut at the top corner so you can bend 2 tabs over (stops the shim from sliding too far in). Mark and drill for the hitch pin. I made up some thinner (24 ga) and smaller shims for the top where there was more free play. There is one in there now but I expect I'll need maybe one or 2 more as the WD conforms the shim to the inside profile of the receiver. The PP stinger is now very tight from side to side (takes some effort to push in) but has a little play at the top still. I'm no expert with sheet metal so it does not look too pretty but overall it's much more snug now. No noises so far.

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Old 08-23-2015, 06:50 PM   #178
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WaLee -

Glad to see you survived the fires up there!

As OhioBrits said, the Cub (ours) has a 6000# trailer wt & 600# HW - so your AS would have to be in range.

The Cayennes with all engines from 2003-10 had 7716# towing wt. & 770# HW ratings, but the gas V6s will work awfully hard at high revs in the top end of that range.

So your pretty red 06 CayS-TI will be fine in that respect HW & GTVW.

I don't see us ever going bigger than our little vintage 1960 Avion T20, so thinking ahead & buying the bigger Arrow or PP wasn't an issue for us. You'll need to decide for yourselves, or stow the PP just in case, if you decide to downsize to the Cub. If you decide to, then call Terry Powell at Hensley & he may have a deal to offer &/or a used one reconditioned by Hensley & both will still carry their Lifetime warranty.

For now I would buy a Sherline Tongue/Hitch Wt. scale & get your exact HW with the PP on (as Brits said it about 100#), & our Cub was about 50-60# I think. Then you can decide based on how much you're over the 770# - if any (at 2006 MY, warranty negation won't be a concern).

There are other strategies for reducing HW discussed above, including moving the battery (our PO put an Optima 12V under the dinette cuz the OE battery was a hard to find odd shaped long & narrow battery in the orig. box on the TT front/A-frame base, only replaceable with a current tractor battery); & also downsizing your LP tanks &/or changing them to aluminum if they're now steel (our PO "upgraded" to 2x 30# LPs in 2007 & I did the 1st refill this last Spring `15 when I dismounted them to paint silver & they were still 1/3 full!); & other stuff removed from the front & placed elsewhere. (I'll eventually downsize to 20# aluminum LP tanks whenever ours need replacing.)

I weighed our Avion as is - also with a 15"x18"x3/32" steel mount plate for the Tekonsha RF in the pic below + the PO changed the OE 20 gal aluminum fresh water tank & air pump to a 23+/- gal poly unit with smaller lighter water pump at the front bulkhead - & it was at about 540-545# ~ up from the factory 1960 number of 275# (probably without any LP tanks or the smallest single 10# one).

You can also change your weight & balance in the AS by the way you pack &/or add wt. to the rear with a cargo rack off the back. That will lever the HW off a bit, & Terry Powell at Hensley assured me it's not an issue to need 10-15% of GTVW as HW with Hensley (nor PP) hitches due to their design, heads & stinger, etc.

Our Avion was "upgraded" in the PO's `07 resto with a 4" sq. steel bumper for the sewer lines (originally it was a "base model" shaped flat steel bumper), & I'm adding a Curt 4" receiver that bolts onto them for this purpose (& for bike racks), with a modified Curt folding aluminum 24"x60" cargo rack with adaptions to carry the TT spare underslung (facing our when folded up - & I may adjust it to carry that + Cayenne spare too), & some brackets to carry our beach cruiser bikes on top, & an empty rolling grey water tank (until I add one when we re-rivet the belly pans) &/or a Honda generator (if we ever get one??), along with additional aluminum tube & angle bracing to steady it ~ plus a few vintage lights for clearance & safety with a nostalgic touch! It's a work in progress... so stay tuned!

So check you HW to see if you are over the 770#, & if so to see if losing 40-50# with a Cub &/or other tweaks above gets you under!

Cheers!
Tom
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Old 08-23-2015, 06:57 PM   #179
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Doh!! I forgot the pic ....

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Old 09-09-2015, 11:49 AM   #180
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My game plan

Quote:
Originally Posted by Knuff View Post
A quick update on our "issue". Hitch reinforcement is being installed by a local shop in Redwood City. Will report the results. Thank you Andy! We had a good talk last Monday morning. Canam has shipped a modified Easylift. Spare tire is gone. Li-ion batteries from amsolar (200Ah) are en route and will be installed next weekend (likely under the dinette compartment - thanks ohiobrits!). Goal is to be ready for the real maiden voyage over July 4: NV, UT, AZ; 2 weeks, 2500 miles. It will be interesting to see the difference in towing behavior, MPG (We did the same trip before with the 20ft FC), oil temp, and generally. The plan is to take it slow over the Sierras - Carson City, Area 51 to Kodachrome Basin which will be our base camp. The trailer is going to be about 2000 lbs heavier than our previous FC - but I think that I will still be at 20MPG by taking it easy (cruise at 62 miles). With the FC, I was, well, driving the Cayenne like it had nothing attached to it .
Thanks for the road map! I hope to find someone closer to NC than CanAm to do the work you described. My 2014 Diesel Pepper and 25fb serenity will be identical to your setup. Looking forward to the journey !
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